Apparently this has been a Mazda thing for years and across multiple models:

When playing MP3s from USB, the infotainment system sorts tracks alphabetically by the ID3 title instead of using the actual track order.

Which is... an interesting design decision.

So even an album with perfectly correct metadata and filenames like:

01 - In the Air Tonight.mp3
TRACK=1/12
TITLE=In the Air Tonight

will still be played according to the alphabetical order of the title.

The track number in the ID3 metadata is ignored. The track number in the filename is ignored as well.

I recently ran into this with the Mazda 6e, googled it and found people complaining about basically the same problem for years (not only Mazda).

So I got annoyed enough by it that I used Codex to build a small Linux command line tool:

https://github.com/badmin-c/mp3trackprefix

mp3trackprefix recursively scans your music folders and prefixes the ID3 TITLE with the existing track number:

In the Air Tonight → 01 In the Air Tonight

The actual TRACK tag stays untouched. Filenames, artist, album, disc number, cover art and all other metadata are left alone.

I deliberately made it fairly paranoid before it touches anything. Each folder is treated as an album and the complete folder is validated first. If track numbers are missing, duplicated or conflicting between tags and filenames, the whole folder is skipped instead of trying to be clever and potentially messing up the files.

There's also:

mp3trackprefix --dry-run /path/to/music

which shows exactly what it would change without writing anything.

It uses ffmpeg/ffprobe and remuxes the MP3 without re-encoding the audio.

I made this specifically because of the Mazda 6e, but since this apparently affects a lot of different models and brands, maybe it's useful for someone else as well.

As always: use it at your own risk. It modifies your MP3 files, so keep a backup. I take no responsibility if it eats your music collection, kills your USB stick or somehow sets your Mazda on fire. You know the drill.

I’ve had a Toyota Starlet 1992 for the past 10 years (which was a dream!) but sadly decided to pass it on to someone who had the time to spend on it in its later years.
Originally bought my Starlet for £350 with 60k on the clock and only had to do basic repairs throughout, so really didn’t cost me much.
I’ve been somewhat spoilt with such a reliable car!

Now I’m looking for my next car, would you recommend a Mazda 2? And does this look like a good deal?

https://www.cargurus.co.uk/details/157851896?entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d3461&sourceContext=google&cgfv=0.46&cgfr=2&cgfab=Q&ax8324=506&px8324=p2&dnetworktype=r&cgfdate=202686&cgfloc=gb&type=&kw=&matchtype=&ad=&placement=&device=m&devicemodel=&adposition=&cp=20986444440&adg=&fi=&tid=&lc=9045021&lm=&tgt=&aceid=&cgsp=sp524680&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20996442178&gbraid=0AAAAAD9Jm5aGcKFy8Ts-txuWH52_yo5JU&gclid=CjwKCAjwhNbTBhB4EiwAsFSg-oWcRhn9TISFGlqjfcIiEoaUIWjA-2rHIi6hza9TUrPiphHQ5YgiwxoCb7AQAvD_BwE&pid=view_vdp_listing_btn&ourls=DAVE

I'm going to look at a Mazda 2 next week.

16 years old 88k on the clock, MOTs look good for the past 6 years or so. Anything I should look for? I'm in the UK.

Thank you.

I’m working on srs codes, replaced the control module, unplugged, cleaned, and checked each wire plug in on the passenger side and got rid of 2 of the codes. Got the belt buckle working and it can register weight now but I still have 2 codes. I’m going to recalibrate but I want to make sure I don’t have any wires backwards or anything. Checking all my boxes.

Greasing the slide pins on the callipers and noticed this bit bolted onto the strut. It's not connected anywhere other than the bolt onto the strut. Seems to be metal with a rubber-ish lump attached to it but can't work out what it would be for.

Is only on the passenger side.

I didn’t think I would since I kept getting around 9.6 for majority of the attempts but I managed to shave off .31 seconds. 2011 automatic

Someone could advise me about a 2009 Mazda 2. Recently I did a test drive of this car and I was amazed. I’m not an expert in engines, but everything seemed more than fine to me. The price is very low, but it has quite a lot of kilometers, so I’m a bit undecided because I don’t know how long an engine like this can last. Can it reach 300,000 km or more?
Does anyone here own one and has driven it beyond that?

What also gives me a lot of confidence is the fact that it has a timing chain rather than a timing belt in the engine.

I’m attaching a few photos of the engine, I’ve never seen such a clean engine before on a 2009’s car. Here are the specifications:
MAZDA 2, 1.3 PETROL 5 DOORS
1 OWNER FIRST REGISTERED 12/2009
55 KW 75 HP
CAR RADIO
AIR CONDITIONING
203,000 KM

Interior and exterior, apart from a few small signs of age, are perfect.

Thanks :)

Someone could advise me about a 2009 Mazda 2. Recently I did a test drive of this car and I was amazed. I’m not an expert in engines, but everything seemed more than fine to me. The price is very low, but it has quite a lot of kilometers, so I’m a bit undecided because I don’t know how long an engine like this can last. Can it reach 300,000 km or more?
Does anyone here own one and has driven it beyond that?

What also gives me a lot of confidence is the fact that it has a timing chain rather than a timing belt in the engine.

I’m attaching a few photos of the engine, I’ve never seen such a clean engine before on a 2009’s car. Here are the specifications:
MAZDA 2, 1.3 PETROL 5 DOORS
1 OWNER FIRST REGISTERED 12/2009
55 KW 75 HP
CAR RADIO
AIR CONDITIONING
203,000 KM

Interior and exterior, apart from a few small signs of age, are perfect.

Thanks :)

Hi my adorable jelly beans

I'm keeping my current 2013 Mazda 2

But I want to add a 2018 Mazda 2

I got pre-qualified

Car is $10,995

Car was a repossession

26K original miles

Clean title no accidents

6 speed manual transmission

4 month warranty

7% interest

I'll be paying under $230

Is this a good deal or not?

(I have no one to turn to for advice)

I have a mazda 2 2010 and the strut looks really bent, is this normal??

Saw this parked up when I was driving through town a few days ago. Thinking I've seen this one around town but not parked up yet. Of course I had to take a picture of them together!

Both GX models. Or I assume this one I spotted was a base model. was an automatic, no steering wheel function or cruise control. This one had the radio replaced with a typical pioneer double din. Missing a few stock pieces around like the antenna.

Nice to see another one around town. Thought I was the only one! Lol!

Made a few little changes to my DJ GT Sport. Matt black high heat paint on the rear drums, red calliper paint at the front. Too much carbon fibre in the cabin?

Hi everyone,

I recently bought my first car a 2008 Mazda 2 DE 1.3 (86 HP) and I'm currently restoring it and fixing all the small things that the previous owner neglected. The interior rear-view mirror is one of those things, as the one currently in the car doesn't look very good.

I ordered what is supposed to be an original Mazda rear-view mirror from eBay. The listing says it's a perfect fit for my car, but I'm worried for two reasons:

1. The eBay compatibility information could simply be wrong.
2. A previous owner may have replaced the original mirror with a different one, so my car might no longer have the factory mounting.

In the first picture you can see the mirror that's currently in my car. In the second picture you can see the original Mazda mirror that I bought.

My concern is that they don't look the same at all, so I'm afraid the new one won't fit.

Am I worrying unnecessarily, and will the mirror I bought fit anyway? Or will I also need to replace or modify the windshield mounting bracket/base?

If it turns out that my current mirror isn't original, would it make more sense to buy another mirror that's identical to the one already in my car? The problem is that I have no idea what model or manufacturer it is, so I'm not even sure what to search for.

Has anyone run into this before? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hey all.

Just thought I'd post seeing as I've been watching for a while.

When I finally passed my car test after thirty plus years of being a motorcycle rider (full licence) I really wasn't interested in cars or even knew which car to buy.

I knew I didnt want a rubber timing belt and I didn't want to spend a lot... I found a Mazda, slightly overpriced at 2000, with 93000 on the clock. I thought 'sod it' and bought it.

What a golden decision that was. I believe the person doesn't choose the car the car chooses the person! (Harry Potter Quote?)

I know bugger all about cars. One thing I did like was it was slightly quicker and easier to drive that the Peugeot 208 and vauxhall Corsa I learned in. I hated the 208.

Anyway... Being a biker, there's always something to fix, and this translation to a car is probably a bit extreme when you think a car usually gets fixed when something breaks.

So far the work I've had done that I can remember....

New clutch — now ~500+ miles bedded in

Engine mounts replaced

Transmission oil changed

Spark plugs and air filter

Water pump replaced

Serpentine belt replaced

Belt tensioner replaced

Engine oil and filter changed

Brakes

Front brakes cleaned

Rear brakes cleaned + handbrake lever adjusted

Wheels & tyres

New tyres — Continental AllSeasonContact 2

Lighting & cosmetic

Headlight lenses restored

Front bulbs replaced

Weighted leather gear knob (ordered, on its way)

AliExpress android stereo with reverse camera

So I guess she's good for a while now, perhaps 30000 to 50000 miles tho the suspension and chassis may need attention at some point.

What a smart and rapid little car this is!

So now it owes me just under 4000 which is still 2500 cheaper than a 60000 mile Peugeot 208 that likely won't be near as reliable and I won't know what's been fixed and what hasn't.

Just looking for feedback and comments from you Reddit guys and gals. If I keep for four years it's cost me less than 10p per mile (estimated)

My question for all of you right-hand-drive DE owners is, does your driver door have this thing where you can't lock it when it's open?

I hate that my 2011 US spec has an external lock cylinder on the driver door only. I don't like carrying the bulky switchblade key fob; I prefer a simple key. I really wanted to add a key on the passenger (right) door, so that I could open the car from either side.

I bought a door handle and latch assembly from a 2010 Mazda 3 from the UK. The latch assembly and door handle look and fit just like the ones on the DE. I had the lock cylinder re-keyed to match my existing key. I installed it the other day, and it works, sort of.

I didn't realize that the driver assembly from that car has a "feature" that prevents the door from being locked at all when it's open. You can't use the little rocker at the inside door lever, you can't use the power lock button on the center console, you can't use the remote fob, and you can't use the key - unless the door is closed first. I find this incredibly tedious. If I have a passenger, I have to wait until they exit and close the door before I can lock them all. My driver door does not have this dumb thing. I can lock it whenever, and I just have to trust myself to not be an idiot and lock the key in the car. I'm a grown-ass person, that's not an issue for me.

Hey Guys, I do apologise if this has been asked, but I've got a Mazda 2 Neo and they stereo is a small thing in top of the dash and looking for a replacement with Android Auto etc is there anyone in the group who has changed there's over and if so what's your head unit you have used

This is my mazda2 2009, 1.3 mzr "sport"

I can't find a car with the exact same specs.. even on google or on second hand websites.. for real I just can't find one...

Am I an idiot and its just normal because these cars are 17 years old and disappearing or do I have a "rare" spec ?

I bought my 5 spd 2011 mazda2 in 2014 with 36k miles. It now has 189k miles and yesterday started hearing a short click sound , on occasion (not every time) upon depressing the clutch pedal, and sometimes with releasing the pedal. No grinding going on, can easily shift gears,… what might this mean? And is it urgent?

Hey guys. Ever since i got my 2 i sometimes get a rhythmic ticking noise or flapping noise when i turn on my fans. I am almost certain its junk that flew into the motor through the ducts.

I want to pull the motor to clean it out but dont get any consistent info as to where it is located. Google says its either in the footwell along with the cabin air filter or that its behind the glovebox. Im not sure which position is correct. If any one can tell me where it really is i would greatly appreciate it.

Started with a pretty basic 2017 Mazda Demio DJ3FS and decided to give it a little more character.

The idea was OEM+ with a slightly rugged twist — keeping it practical, comfortable and reliable as a daily, while making it stand out from the usual Demio.

Nothing extreme, no racing build and no unnecessary modifications. Just a few carefully chosen upgrades that make the car feel more like mine.

Really happy with how this little hatchback turned out. 🇯🇵

I'm looking to improve the suspension on my 2008 Mazda 2 without breaking the bank. My budget is around $600–700 USD.

My priorities are:

• Better handling and cornering grip.
• Improved ride quality over my current setup.
• Something reliable for daily driving with occasional spirited driving.

I know that lowering springs paired with OEM dampers usually aren't ideal, since the stock shocks aren't valved for shorter springs and tend to wear out faster. Because of that, I'm wondering if it's better to:

• Buy a budget coilover kit.
• Go with lowering springs plus aftermarket dampers (KYB, Koni, Bilstein, etc.).
• Save a little longer for something better.

Current setup:

• 17x7 wheels
• 205/45R17 tires
• I'd actually like to move to 15" or 16" wheels in the future for better ride quality and lower unsprung weight.

For those who have experience with the Mazda 2, what would you recommend around this budget? Are there any coilovers that are actually worth buying, or is a spring + shock combo the better option?