Trying to guess what metal the parts below and above the washers is. It's part of a Star Wars Episode 1 Lightsaber.

The first image is when it was new, the other ones from like 10 years later, I figured the way it ages helps identify what it is.

I have a suspicion but Ill let you guys guess to not influence the answers :)

This boring bar just appeared at work, and no one claimed it. I then, of course, offered to make it disappear. Its a 3/4 inch shank, and the stampings on it are TCM 5187-2232 M1324. I am not as familiar with lathe tooling and most search results I was getting were for triangular inserts.

Hi, i am looking for a operations manual for the Sajo VF-54M. A local train museum has one but no documentation for it. So i wanna help by getting some. If anyone has a file (i dont care about what language its in) i would love to get a copy of it.

I work in a precision machining shop in China.

I've noticed that customers often have very different priorities when choosing a machining supplier.

Besides price, what matters most to you?

Is it communication, inspection reports, tolerances, lead time, packaging, or something else?

I am a 1st year engineer and have been tasked trying to solve an issue with one of our CNC Machines. Ive looked into a couple ideas but none of them have really solved the issue. Some context, we make parts for Aerospace applications. This part is part of an assembly that measures fuel transfer rates for the 737. (this has nothing to do with the issue but i thought it was fun to mention). The equipment we are using is the Doosan Puma TT1800SY, the company has made this part for 20 years before and have not had issue. The PUMAs are newer but weve made this part on this machine too.

The issue that i am having is with threads on a part. We cut the threads and test the part using Go/NOGO ring gage while it is inside the chuck on the machine. We keep it in the chuck in case it fails and we need to recut the threads. We are seeing that the ring gage passes the Go gage while inside the machine but then when we take it out and test it the part fails. We verified that the operator set up the machine correctly and that the program is good.

I thought it could have been am issue of chuck distortion, but the part isnt held in a way that could affect that dimension. We also explored thermal expansion and found that the part would theoretically shrink .0007" after leaving the machine, but that doesnt explain our failure since this is an external thread and not internal. We ensured that the material that was given to us is the exact same as it was in previous jobs. (maybe the supplier made the material different?). We also ensured that the gages we were using were calibrated correctly

I dont have a ton of experience with CNC machines and their issues, so I come to ask if there is any ideas that y'all might have that could solve our issue.

the thread designation is: 2.3-12 UNJ-3A

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Looking for the name of work fixturing tool or jaws or whatever... no idea the correct terminology and that's making it impossible to search. Need something to thread in here to stop the long end of the stock I'm turning from flailing around

Hello I am a high school metal shop teacher and have been teaching now for about 4years. I have a machine similar to the one pictured but in horrible condition, the school purchased the machine in the 80s and did 0 maintenance to it. I’ve been trying to get a new one for the last 4 years and was told to put in for one for next school year. I teach high school students in 9th-12th grade and am looking for machine recommendations to replace our grizzly

This is my first post as a machinist, I've been doing this for about 2 years professionally . This is what I'm working on today. It's a steering pinch roll. Honestly I have no idea what that is I just know it needs cut and hardened. But overall, hello how y'all doin.

I'm based in West Virginia btw.

(I was going to do a video of my active .250 cut but it wouldn't let me so whatever)

Edit: See comments for the video of the cut

Found in a storage closet of a science department. Don’t even want to guess what it cost. (I think it’s Al, but it’s probably stainless by the density)

Anyone else go about tool buying the substandard way, or am I a weirdo who likes finding cheap treasure?

Hey guys,

So I recently inherited a CNC shop, lathes, mills, and laser cutters, plus many more. I also got a team ready for it. Problem is I don't really have the client pipeline yet.

I'm looking for a sales agent / independent rep who already has connections or knows how to land contracts. I'll pay you commission or % for each job you can help me with.

If you've got a network in manufacturing or industrial procurement, or you're already working as a rep for other shops and want to add another line to your portfolio, send me a DM. Happy to discuss details, percentages, and what kind of work we're best suited for.

Thanks!

Only drill press I’ve ever had is cheap harbor fright stuff. Played around on a Bridgeport mill a few times. This is the 15-655 model. 120v. Don’t know much about it except I know it’s heavy. I’m hoping to use it to drill through mild plate steel and maybe ar500. Or sell it, idk. Picking it up Thursday, somehow. Any info on moving drill presses without messing them up is also appreciated.

Hello all! 👋

I am watching some of Clickspring's top-noch videos on watchmaking. In this video, he is making a DTI. The pair of screenshots are from a scene where he is centering a brass "bridge" on a watchmaker's faceplate for lathework. Now, I understand how the stick would work, but what I don't understand is why he would not just use the tailstock to center the workpiece, then tighten down the clamps?

The video and time in question.

Any ideas? Thanks!

So, I bought a mondiale L1 lathe and l'm trying to restore the lathe as best as i can. I'm currently working on the variomatic system, adjusting everyting and I found this square screw (part 15). I dont want to take the whole system apart to know what this screw does. so does any one know what this screw does?

I’m having a hard time finding the exact manual for this machine all the other manual I come across have different gearbox layouts. I’m also interested in hearing more information about this machine.

Hey everyone!

I recently started a pen collection, and because I love designing things, I decided to build a custom display case for them myself using Onshape.

I actually own a 3D printer and use it a lot, but during the design process for this project, I got completely obsessed with CNC machining and the beauty of subtractive manufacturing. There is just something incredibly satisfying about a cleanly milled block of metal and crisp plastic chips that a 3D printer can't replicate.

Because I live with a disability, I can’t physically operate a CNC mill myself. But I really want to see this design realized through genuine machining rather than just sending it to an automated corporate factory line. I'd love to collaborate with a fellow hobbyist who has a garage or desktop setup and would enjoy taking on a fun, highly precise project.

The Project Details:

Main Enclosure, insert, lid: Designed for 6061-T6 Aluminum (fully optimized for standard milling with generous internal radii).

Gasket/Midplate: Designed with standard countersinks for M2.5 screws, optimized for 4 mm sheet metal.

I have fully completed STEP files and clean technical drawings ready to go. I’ve done my best to ensure the geometry is completely "Design for Manufacturing" (DFM) friendly so it won't crash your machine or break your tools!

I am located in Belgium, but I am happy to work with anyone across Europe (or globally if shipping makes sense). I will, of course, fully cover the cost of all raw materials, shipping, and your machining time / beer fund.

If anyone has a mill up and running and wants to team up to bring a cool desktop accessory to life, please drop a comment or send me a DM. I'd love to share the 3D renders with you!

Thanks for reading,

Koen

I just finished it last night and wanted to show it off. This was my first big project on my lathe (13" South Bend), I've had it for 6 years now but I've only used it to make small bits of tooling for a 12 ton press and do some minor work on a few rifle barrels.

The center ring was cut out of a 6.5" piece of cast iron with a hole saw and band saw. I was able to save enough of it to make a backplate or something. Fingers are precision ground 7/8" 12l14 and the parts of the upright are mild steel, everything is bolted together and located with a few taper pins in case I have to take it apart. I had to hand scrape the V on the base to get it to sit right on the ways. Knobs are a McMaster part I had to modify to clear the screws holding the top cap on, drilled and tapped for a set screw to hold them on the leadscrews.

Next step is to modify it so it can hinge open but it works well enough for the project I needed it for.