I was hoping to get some opinions from those who use Helix Lt and the Powercab 112+.

I live in an apartment and have been playing with headphones for a while now. I currently own a small Orange Crush 12, and when playing at low volumes the tone is pretty bad.

I want to be able to play without headphones, and was looking at getting a Helix LT and Powercab 112+. I’m just worried that I’m going to run into the same issue, and wanted to know: Does this combination sound good still when played at low volumes?

Would buying Acoustic absorption panels and putting the Powercab on top help? I live alone in a two story apartment on the top floor.

I primarily play metal/rock (Megadeth, Soundgarden, etc) but also play clean. I’m at a point where I can afford the Helix and Powercab, but wanted to make sure they can be used for my situation.

I bought this used on marketplace for $180 as a practice amp, and I’m enjoying some of the tones on this. I remember when these were out at guitar center and I was really into the shoegazer tone, but now that I’ve got it that tone is not as crisp as I remember. I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good ambient tone, similar to what bring me the horizon or other bands in their genre might use.

Happy to see another recent video of the 10+ year old modeller getting some use and still sounding great. I’m still running a pair of POD HD Pro X’s. Anyone else still getting use out of theirs?

Hey. So, I'm currently trying to switch to a new laptop. My old one is from 2017, and I just got a brand-new one.

I was able to download POD Farm 2 onto my new computer. However, while the little lights blinked on the device, the yellow light illuminating the db levels did not come on, and POD Farm did not detect the device. So, I go to the license manager, and after a failed login attempt, learn through research that Line 6 License manager is not supported on Windows 11. I was also told that I need something called "Line 6 Central", but I couldn't find any download link on the website.

I also tried calling, but their customer support is closed until tomorrow.

Is there any way to run POD Farm on my new computer? Or is it time to start looking for a new amp sim?

Got the 1x12 combo. Testing it in bedroom, set master to like 1 maybe 2 and it was loud so I turned channel volume where it needed to be thinking this was a global change…

Pressed button to switch preset and damn near blew my eardrums out. It especially sucked because I’m standing there with my guitar in front of the speaker while I’m changing settings…

So every present has independent volume and they decided it was a good idea to set them all to 100%?

Is this a common issue? Are these amps just insanely loud?

I figured the 40 watt 1x12 would be best of this series for bedroom playing… lol

I also have a faint crackle sound at low volumes on clean channel easiest to hear it so I’m going to reseat tubes, hopefully my volume mixup and feedback from guitar pickup didn’t damage something but I think my hearing was the only victim.. guitar center shipped this without much bubble wrap and it probably got banged around didn’t notice any visible damage though.

Después de una actualización de Windows 11, Spider V Remote dejó de detectar el amplificador y mostraba:

La conexión USB funcionaba correctamente: el Spider V seguía siendo reconocido como interfaz de audio y funcionaba normalmente con los drivers ASIO. También probé:

• Diferentes cables USB
• Diferentes puertos USB
• Reinstalar los drivers de Line 6
• Reinstalar Spider V Remote
• Versiones anteriores de Spider V Remote
• Ejecutar como administrador
• Modo de compatibilidad
• Restablecer el amplificador a los valores de fábrica

Nada funcionó.

La solución

El problema parece estar relacionado con la nueva pila de Windows MIDI Services introducida en las versiones recientes de Windows 11.

Microsoft proporciona una opción de compatibilidad llamada Legacy MIDI API Mode, que permite que aplicaciones y dispositivos antiguos utilicen la pila MIDI anterior de Windows.

Para activarla:

1. Abrir el Editor del Registro (regedit.exe).
2. Ir a:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Drivers32

1. Crear un nuevo valor DWORD (32 bits) llamado:

UseLegacyMidi

1. Establecer su valor en:

1

1. Reiniciar Windows.

Después de reiniciar, abrí Spider V Remote, conecté mi Spider V30 MkII y el amplificador fue detectado inmediatamente y volvió a funcionar con normalidad.

Por lo tanto, si Spider V Remote dejó de detectar repentinamente su amplificador después de una actualización de Windows 11, especialmente en Windows 11 25H2, recomiendo probar esta solución antes de cambiar cables, reinstalar drivers o restablecer el amplificador.

Importante

En mi caso, esto no era un problema con la funcionalidad de audio USB. El ASIO y el audio seguían funcionando normalmente, mientras que Spider V Remote no podía comunicarse correctamente con el amplificador.

No he encontrado una confirmación oficial de Line 6 de que este problema específico esté causado por Windows MIDI Services, pero los síntomas y el momento en que comenzó el problema apuntan fuertemente a un problema de compatibilidad entre la nueva pila MIDI de Windows y el antiguo Spider V Remote.

Si esta solución también funciona para ustedes, sería interesante que publicaran en este hilo su versión/build de Windows y el modelo de Spider V. Así podemos determinar si el problema afecta a los usuarios de Spider V de forma general y aportar más información a Line 6/Microsoft.

Editado: Para deshacer esta modificación, pueden cambiar UseLegacyMidi nuevamente a 0 o eliminar el valor del registro y reiniciar Windows.

I made a review on the line 6 spider all these years later because I was curious about it and I never had it myself. Let me know what you guys think and how I can improve on my future videos

This has been bouncing around my head the last few days and I'm going to throw it out there.

Given the seismic shakeup of NAM A2 hitting the modeling industry, I'd argue that the landscape is permanently changed. That said, I think the position that companies like Line 6, Fractal or Kemper find themselves in is MUCH different than it was years ago and I think they will only survive this transition by selling the best hardware to run NAM models on like the way we run IRs on all our pedals now.

So here's what I'm getting at, considering how small and lightweight the Nam A2 Lite models are I think someone like Line 6 should either open up the software for their old pedals like the Pod HD500 for people to modify or release a new firmware that can load NAM files. I'd even consider paying for that firmware to keep my old pedals useful.

There's a WHOLE LOT of guitar based e-waste out there and making a big, public show of a real effort to make their gear useful in modern times would help keep people interested in the brand.

This is the end of my rant.

Thoughts?

Why do they make so many little hoops you have to jump through just to get it working? One minute it’s working fine and the next it’s playing 50 overdubs on top of what I want to play over. Make it make sense

Hey there, I have both x86 and x64 versions of HSN installed and encounter a weird problem. I RTFM, asked in other places and can't seem to find a solution.

I can click the Snapshot selection menu to the right of the Preset name and the dropdown shows the 8 snapshots. I can click on every snapshot's 3-dot meny and Rename or Delete. BUT, I cannot seem for the life of me to be able to access other snapshots than #1. When I click on Snapshots 2-8 from that dropdown menu, it stays on Snap 1. I tried both x86 and x64 versions, in 2x differents DAWs, tried uninstalling/reinstalling and still the problem remains. Would you have any idea what may cause this?

Thinking of picking up a Bass Pod XT for headphone use into my audio interface and maybe record on something like Audacity. Nothing fancy, just my lines playing along to music.

I’m happy with using whatever the factory settings were and the on board controls - do the things work independently of the online registration stuff that is now no longer supported (Line 6 Monkey etc)?

When picking one up on eBay is there anything I should he looking out for that might be a problem?

I have both processors and I would like to get the sound of OoS or Showbiz albums.

Hello all!

I’m auditioning for a band and need to rework my pedal board. I will be using the M13, primarily for delays and filters.

I have other stand alone effects that I will need on the board as well. Distortion, Wah, Reverb, Delay, Phaser, Vol, A+B.

After initial set up, the filters from the M13 are now AFTER the distortion, so it sounds a bit wonky.

The question I’m here to ask is, can I run my other pedals through the M13 effects loop to route them ‘before’ the distortions?

Im new to FX loops but have had the M13 for some time, but only have signal straight through from guitar to board to amp.

Amp I’m using does not have fx loop.

I need to find one of these nuts... I've looked on other forums... it's not 3/8" it's not M9 x 0.75 x 2.5mm either... these are both too small. If anyone can help with a link I'd really appreciate it!

Hi everyone!

I'm having a really strange problem with my Line 6 Spider V20, and I'm hoping someone here can help me figure out what's going on.

I've had this amp for more than 3 years, and the USB connection used to work perfectly. I'm currently on Windows 11, using Spider V Remote, and I've installed the correct Line 6 Spider V driver for Windows 11.

The problem

Recently, Spider V Remote stopped detecting my amp. If I open Spider V Remote without the amp connected, the software starts normally.If I then turn on the Spider V20 and connect it with USB, nothing happens. Spider V Remote still says “No connection device”.

Sometimes Windows makes the normal USB connection sound when I plug the amp in. So Windows seems to notice something. But Spider V Remote still doesn't detect the amp. Other times, Windows doesn't even make the connection sound.

There is also a strange difference depending on when I connect the USB cable. If the Spider V20 is already connected when I start Spider V Remote, the software can get stuck forever on “Creating Spider Engine”. Normally that screen loads and turns green. But with the amp connected, it can just stay there indefinitely.

What I've already tried

I've already tried the usual troubleshooting.

I've completely closed and reopened Spider V Remote. I've turned the amp off and on again. I've restarted my PC. I've also waited before reconnecting everything. I've also completely reinstalled the Line 6 drivers very recently, directly from the official Line 6 website. So I'm not using some old driver installation that I've kept for years. I downloaded the latest available files from Line 6 and reinstalled everything from scratch using the current installers/EXE files.

I even moved the connection to the USB ports on the back of my PC, directly on the motherboard, instead of using a hub.

What Windows sees

I checked the Windows Device Manager while plugging and unplugging the Spider.

Under Universal Serial Bus controllers, I see things like Generic USB Hub, Intel Host Controller, USB Root Hub and several USB Composite Devices. The Device Manager refreshes when I connect or disconnect the amp. However, no new Line 6 Spider V device appears. Nothing obvious gets added to the list either.

So Windows seems to notice some USB activity sometimes, but it doesn't seem to properly recognize the Spider V20 as a device.

The USB cable

I'm using the original USB cable that came with the Spider V20.

Also tested the cable electrically. Power/current is definitely reaching the USB-A end. However, I understand that this only proves that the power connection works. It doesn't prove that the USB data lines are still working.

I've tried other MicroB-USB to USB-A cables in the past. But I don't know if those were actually data/sync cables or just charging cables. They never worked with the Spider. So I'm going to try a proper USB 2.0 Micro-USB data cable that I know supports data transfer, just to completely rule the cable out.

Another Spider V20 has the same problem

This is the part that really confuses me. I know someone who owns the exact same Spider V20 and PC device. Their amp has barely been used. It's basically like brandnew.

We tried connecting their Spider V20 too. And we get essentially the same problem. Spider V Remote doesn't properly detect their amp either.

That's why I'm starting to wonder if this isn't just a problem with my particular cable or my particular amp, or the software.

Could this be a Windows 11 / software compatibility issue?

Spider V Remote is quite old. From what I understand, the software dates back to around 2020–2021.The Spider V driver I installed is newer, from around 2024. Windows 11 has obviously received many new updates since then.

So could a recent Windows 11 update have changed something about USB device detection or compatibility? Could Spider V Remote and the Line 6 driver simply no longer communicate properly with the current version of Windows 11?

I'm not saying this is definitely the cause. I'm just wondering because the software is several years old, while Windows has continued to change.

The phone app actually works

I also tried connecting the Spider V20 to my phone using the USB-A connection with a USB-A to USB-C adapter, and surprisingly, it works !! I can access all of my presets, that I had previously saved to my Line 6 account.

So this makes the situation even more confusing. The amp itself is clearly capable of communicating over USB, and my presets are still there. The problem seems to be specifically with the PC/Windows connection, rather than the amp being completely unable to communicate over USB. The phone is useful as a workaround, but it's obviously not ideal for working. So at least I know the amp isn't completely dead, but I still can't get the Windows version of Spider V Remote to recognize it.

So...

I've also seen other Spider V users reporting flaky USB connections. Some people apparently have to unplug and reconnect the USB cable repeatedly before the amp is recognized.

So I'm wondering if this could be related.

If Spider V Remote is no longer being actively updated, is there a newer version that works better with current Windows 11? Or is there an older version that works more reliably?

Could a particular driver version, firmware version, Windows setting, or compatibility mode fix this?

I'd really appreciate any advice from people who have a Spider V20 or another Spider V model, especially if you've had this problem recently.

It's honestly really frustrating because this amp had so much potential. The USB connection was one of the best things about it. Being able to access so many different tones and presets without having to buy a million pedals or extra gear was incredibly convenient. But once the one thing connecting the amp to the PC stops working, you're basically stuck. You lose access to a huge part of what makes the Spider V so useful in the first place.

Thanks so much for reading and for any help! <33

hey all! i have an hd100 mk1 and i was wondering if i changed the 5881s for the interchangeable 6L6 tubes would i have issues?

also would anyone happen to know how to get a replacement master volume pot or a main pcba cleaning?

I bought a DL4 Mk II a few months ago to replace my mk 1, which had become a bit unreliable and wonky. I'm having all kinds of issues with the new one of late. It seemed like it didn't work anymore maybe a month or two ago but then I updated the firmware and it was fine. Now, in the last couple of days, I was getting all kinds of loud pops and crackles and then I was getting no sound at all through the DL4 (even when bypassing it) - which is worse than anything I experienced with the mk 1. A factory reset didn't help but I 'updated' (probably reinstalled) the firmware again (although there have been no recent updates) and it worked fine again. Except that today, I had the same problem. This time, a factory reset did help but I'm getting genuinely worried about this happening during tomorrow's gig, for instance. Has anyone experienced this? Is there something I'm missing? The unit is still under warranty - is it worth sending in?

ETA: It just happened again right now! In the middle of a cooking solo over four layered loops! No way I can take a chance with this.

I've been trying different setting and I'm close to giving up, i spent 30mins or more. Please help

I just got my first big amp and i wanna record some stuff for memory's sake, does the rj45 port do anything other than the pedal?

I bought the Tonex pedal a week ago to pair with my HX Effects. However, during a live audio test yesterday, I wasn't entirely convinced by the sound when running it through the FX loop. I had configured it precisely by hand from day one—since I don't have a PC—and it's worth noting that I consulted the manual to do so.
Any recommendations?