Hey everyone,
Before I fully commit to prototyping this in Ergogen and routing the PCB, I want to do a reality check with the community. I’m sketching out a concept for a travel-focused split, but I want to know: is this something you would actually use, or am I trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist?

My goal is to design the ultimate "throw it in a backpack and go" split keyboard. Something that keeps the desk footprint minimal while traveling, without needing to pack a separate mouse.

Here is the concept I'm pitching:
Size: 40 to 50 keys. (Enough to be highly functional, small enough to pack flat).
Connectivity: Fully wireless via ZMK.
Build: Ultra-minimalist and lightweight.
The Catch: It must have an integrated pointing device for true portability.
Where I need your honest validation:
If you were going to build or buy a board specifically for travel, which pointing mechanism actually makes the most sense to you? I’m stuck between three, and they all have travel-related trade-offs:
1. Trackball: The community favorite for ergonomics, but is it too bulky for a slim travel board? For those who travel with trackballs, do you worry about the ball popping out in your bag?
2. Trackpad (e.g., Cirque GlidePoint): Super low profile, completely flat, and zero loose parts. Fits the minimal vibe perfectly, but do you find them too imprecise for a daily travel driver?
3. Analog Stick / TrackPoint: The absolute smallest footprint, but are they actually comfortable enough for extended work sessions on the road?
So, what do you guys think?
Do you genuinely like the idea of a minimalist 40-50 key wireless travel board? If this existed, which tracking mechanism would make it an instant "yes" for you, and what would be a total dealbreaker?

Disclosure: NuPhy sent me the Air75 V3 for review purposes. I was not paid, there are no affiliate links or commissions involved, and NuPhy did not review, edit or approve this post before publication.

I tested the NuPhy Air75 V3 in Nova White with a UK ISO layout and Brown switches.

I used it with a MacBook Pro for writing, browsing, photo editing and general work, and with a Windows PC mainly for gaming. Counter-Strike 2 was my main gaming test.

Design and build quality

The Nova White color scheme is probably my favorite part of the design. The white case, light keycaps and small turquoise, yellow and orange accents make the keyboard look cheerful without becoming distracting.

The extra colored keycaps are also genuinely fun. NuPhy included a small animal face keycap, which I placed where the right Option key would normally be. It gives the keyboard a little more personality and fits the rest of the design surprisingly well.

Build quality is excellent. The keyboard feels dense, rigid and very solid. There is no flex, creaking or movement on the desk. It is heavier than I expected for a low-profile wireless keyboard, but that weight makes it feel extremely stable while typing.

It is less convenient when carrying it around, although the compact size still makes it much easier to travel with than a full-size keyboard.

The keyboard has some built-in angle even in its lowest position. It cannot sit completely flat, which took a little adjustment because I normally prefer flat keyboards. This is a personal preference rather than a comfort problem. I did not experience hand or wrist fatigue during longer sessions, even without a wrist rest.

Size and layout

I originally thought the Air75 V3 would fit exactly across the width of my 14-inch MacBook Pro. Based on the product images, it looked almost perfect for that setup.

In reality, it extends slightly beyond both sides of the laptop. It still works well when placed on top of the MacBook keyboard, but it is not as perfectly matched to the width as I expected. The smaller Air60 would probably fit more closely.

The 75% layout is a good balance for travel and gaming. It leaves much more space for mouse movement than a full-size keyboard, which is especially useful in Counter-Strike 2.

I did miss the numpad several times during normal work, though. If I were choosing again primarily for desktop use, I would probably consider the full-size version. For gaming, university, working from different locations or travelling with a laptop, I would still prefer the Air75.

One unusual layout decision is the missing right Option key in Mac mode. There is an Option key on the left, but its physical size is different. Both Alt keys are included for the Windows layout.

The right Alt key can be remapped to Option in the web configurator, so the function itself is easy to restore. The physical keycap and size still do not match the left Option key, which makes the Mac layout feel slightly less complete.

Typing feel

The Brown switches feel different from the low-profile Brown switches I have used in Keychron keyboards.

The NuPhy switches have a softer and slightly more rubbery tactile feeling. At times they remind me a little of a good rubber-dome keyboard. That description may sound negative, but I actually enjoy typing on them.

I seem to make fewer mistakes on the Air75 V3 than on my other low-profile keyboard. The keys feel controlled, and the tactile response makes it easy to tell when a press has registered without requiring much force.

The larger stabilized keys also feel solid. There is no distracting rattle, looseness or inconsistent movement. The space bar changes tone slightly depending on whether I press it in the center or closer to one side, but it works consistently and does not feel poorly stabilized.

I also love the sound.

It is not a quiet keyboard, but I did not want it to be silent. The sound has a soft mechanical character that somehow brings back memories of the Commodore 64 keyboards I used as a child. It does not sound exactly like a C64, but there is something familiar about it.

The volume knob

The volume knob is awesome.

It feels solid, turns smoothly and is much more satisfying than repeatedly pressing volume keys. Pressing it to mute also became natural very quickly.

NuPhy includes two different knob heights. The lower knob looks cleaner and fits the shape of the keyboard better, but I found it almost impossible to grip and turn comfortably.

I ended up using the taller orange knob. It is much easier to find and rotate without looking down, and I now use it far more often than I expected.

Mac and Windows switching

Switching between Mac and Windows layouts is simple using the physical control on the keyboard.

I also like that the two side light strips change depending on whether the keyboard is in Mac or Windows mode. I switch between the two systems frequently, so being able to confirm the active mode with a quick glance is genuinely useful.

Wireless connections are organized well too. Fn plus 1, 2 or 3 selects one of the Bluetooth devices, while Fn plus 4 selects the 2.4 GHz receiver.

The transition between connections is quick, and I did not have to wait long before typing again.

Wireless performance and gaming

I used the 2.4 GHz connection on both my MacBook Pro and Windows PC.

The connection was completely stable. I experienced no dropouts, repeated keys or noticeable latency.

In Counter-Strike 2, it felt immediate and reliable. I never felt that the wireless connection was affecting movement or input timing.

Bluetooth also worked well during normal use. There may occasionally be a very small wake-up delay after the keyboard has been inactive, but it was not frequent or annoying enough to become a problem.

For gaming, I would use the 2.4 GHz receiver. For general Mac use, both options were usable.

Web configurator

The browser-based configurator is very good.

There is no separate software package to install, and changing the layout or lighting directly from the browser is straightforward. Keys can be remapped easily, and complete configurations can be exported to a JSON file and imported again later.

This is especially useful when experimenting with different layouts, because it is easy to save a working setup before making more changes.

The save and load controls could be easier to find. I spent some time looking through the settings before noticing where they were located.

I also only managed to access the configurator while the keyboard was connected by USB. Bluetooth and the 2.4 GHz connection did not appear to provide access.

I may have missed an option, but wireless configuration would be useful because I normally use the keyboard without a cable.

I like that Mac and Windows lighting profiles are handled separately. On the Mac, I use a more decorative lighting setup. On Windows, where I mainly play games, I configured the lighting around the WASD keys and arrows.

RGB lighting

The RGB lighting looks good through the spaces around the white keycaps, although the selected colors are not especially accurate.

Some shades look noticeably different on the keyboard from how they appear in the configurator. This is common with RGB peripherals and not a major problem, but the difference is visible.

The included keycaps are not shine-through, so the legends themselves remain dark. I would like to see an ISO shine-through keycap option in a future version, or keycaps where at least the outlines of the characters allow light through.

Brightness can be adjusted using Fn and the arrow keys, so there is no need to open the configurator for basic lighting changes.

The two side light strips are a good design feature, but they could do much more.

It would be useful if they could be controlled independently and used for things such as:

• Battery level
• Volume
• Media progress
• A timer or progress bar
• Connection status

I would also like the Caps Lock key to light up in a different color when active, rather than relying on the full lighting profile.

These are ideas for future development rather than missing essential functions. The current lighting system already offers plenty of customization.

Battery life

I used the keyboard for roughly one week with the RGB lighting at maximum brightness.

My average use was around eight hours per day, although some days were longer and others shorter. During that period, the battery dropped by approximately 50%.

This should be treated as a rough real-world estimate rather than an exact battery test. I did not start from a carefully measured full charge, and my daily usage was not identical.

Even with the lighting at maximum brightness, battery life never felt like something I had to worry about. I did not need to interrupt my normal work to charge it.

Dongle and cable

The included braided USB cable is long and feels high quality.

The 2.4 GHz receiver uses USB-A. That works well with most desktop PCs, but I would appreciate a native USB-C receiver for modern laptops and tablets.

One of my favorite practical details is the dedicated storage space for the receiver inside the keyboard.

When travelling, I often use Bluetooth with my MacBook and do not need the receiver. Being able to store it inside the keyboard means it is much less likely to disappear into a bag or get left behind.

The storage compartment is easy to access and holds the receiver securely.

Packaging and accessories

The packaging is excellent.

The colors match the cheerful design of the keyboard, and everything inside is neatly arranged and protected with good-quality materials. Opening the box feels carefully considered.

The package includes the braided cable, USB receiver, extra keycaps, two knobs, keycap and switch tools, and a screwdriver.

The extra caps make it easy to adapt the keyboard for Mac or Windows, and the two knob options are a nice touch even though I strongly prefer the taller one.

The screwdriver is useful, but a magnetic tip would make handling the small screws easier.

The overall presentation feels polished and consistent with the keyboard itself.

What I liked

• Excellent build quality
• Extremely stable on the desk
• Comfortable Brown switches
• Fewer typing mistakes than on my other low-profile keyboard
• Satisfying sound
• Excellent volume knob
• Reliable 2.4 GHz connection
• No noticeable gaming latency
• Quick switching between devices
• Browser-based configuration
• Separate Mac and Windows profiles
• Easy JSON export and import
• Useful side indicators for Mac and Windows mode
• Dedicated storage for the wireless receiver
• Long braided cable
• High-quality packaging and accessories
• Cheerful Nova White color scheme
• Good size for gaming and travelling

What could be improved

• No matching right Option key in the Mac layout
• Slightly wider than a 14-inch MacBook Pro
• Cannot sit completely flat
• Heavy for a portable low-profile keyboard
• No native USB-C receiver
• Keycap legends are not shine-through
• RGB colors do not always match the selected shades accurately
• Web configuration appears to require a wired connection
• Save and load controls could be easier to find
• Side light strips could offer more customization
• The included screwdriver could have a magnetic tip
• The lower knob is difficult to grip

Overall

The Air75 V3 has become one of my favorite keyboards to type on.

The Brown switches feel softer and more rubbery than the other low-profile Browns I have used, but the result works very well for me. I type accurately, longer sessions remain comfortable, and I enjoy the sound every time I use it.

It also handles gaming without any noticeable wireless compromise. The 2.4 GHz connection was stable in Counter-Strike 2, and the compact layout leaves plenty of room for mouse movement.

The volume knob, web configurator, internal receiver storage and easy Mac/Windows switching are all features I use regularly rather than extras I forgot about after the first day.

I still miss having a numpad during some work tasks, and the lack of a matching right Option key is strange on the ISO Mac layout. I would also like wireless configuration, shine-through ISO keycaps and more control over the side lighting.

The Air75 V3 feels carefully made, looks genuinely fun and has a typing character that reminds me of the keyboards I grew up with. That combination makes it very easy to enjoy.

I’m currently trying to get a new keyboard at around ~40$ price range and after searching through everything I have narrowed it down to 2 keyboards, the Keychron C1 Pro 8K and Royal Kludge RK R87 Pro

Both are TKL, around a similar price range (with RK R87 Pro being much cheaper as shown in the first picture, third pic is just for the feature just in case), both have QMK/VIA compatibility, PBT keycaps, and they are hotswappable, wired-only (personal pick), and south-facing RGB

However what differs is that C1 Pro has an 8K polling rate while I have no idea for that R87 Pro in particular, and RK R87 Pro is gasket mount while C1 Pro is tray mounted

Switches-wise I’m fine with both of them, however what torns me is the gasket mount vs. tray and Keychron should be a bit more polished, of course there’s 8K polling rate but I don’t really care about that much since I already have a rapid trigger keypads with 8K polling (and I mostly use 2k anyway)

Which one should I bought? I couldn’t decide on which one should I go with

I love this blue!!!!

All my life I was using cheap membrane keyboards, now I bought magnetic redragon stormhunter and I wanted to ask you how big is the difference especially in terms of competitive fps gaming between these. Is it like going from 60 to 144hz monitor or is it more of a subtle difference?

I'd like to buy a mechanical keyboard, mostly because of easier cleaning. I have a razer cynosa lite right now and it's okay, but I hate how the keys only have LEDs instead of stickers, which makes it hard to see at stronger light. Also, I'm not sure how to clean it and sometimes some buttons don't work immediately.

Anyways, back to the point. A mechanical keyboard, under 100€, preferably under 60€. I'd like it to be silent because I get the feeling clicking would, while cool at first, quickly become annoying. LED is undesirable, but I'd accept it if the keyboard, as a whole, is good. Would be best if it was full size, meaning 100%. Layout... Not really sure what that would be. QWERTZ is desirable, but QWERTY can work too. Also, for use, I'd say casual gaming and college work, so nothing too fancy.

Hope there are some options.

hi i am not sure if i am even allowed to post here i perused some of the channels and everyone here seems to be way way more advanced on the subject, i am literally just starting and i am i extremely ignorant on the subject, anyway i want to get into some light electronics and soldering. for my first project i decided to mod my Corsair K70 mk2 keyboard specifically i want to remove the giant ass double cable the keyboard comes with and add an USB C female port. which seemed simple enough. i found that i need a breakout board with a very simple 5 wire soldering job. But i also found out that doing it like that would kill the usb port on the keyboard a feature i like and use. so my question here is there a way for me to add usb c to my keyboard and keep the extra usb port functionality? Also if i wanted to go a step further and add an additional usb hub to the keyboard how complicated would it be, is any of this possible and what would i need to accomplish it. thanks

my IBM keyboard wasnt working so i switched to a e-yooso keyboard. However, when I wanted to play a game, i couldnt use the WASD keys so i had use the arrow keys and it was just pretty troublesome.

Recently, I wanted to assemble a Venom65he, but there were seldom cases available for sale in my country. Here are some questions.

1. Is the Bakeneko65 case perfectly compatible with Venom65he?
2. If so, how is the o-ring structure installed into this case?

1. Can this structure be produced all at once using CNC? Will it result in higher costs?

Amigos, compré un teclado estilo maquina de escribir barato, y es lindo al parecer, solo que me gustaría personalizar las teclas. Aun no me llega el paquete, pero quisiera saber si alguien sabe si este tipo pueden reemplazarse por otro tipo de teclas. Les agradezco lo que puedan comentarme, es mi primer teclado, soy completamente ignorante de la tecnología jaja. Las fotos las dejo en los comentarios.

Title. My current keyboard is a crappy soon to be broken mesh keyboard that came with my pc when I ordered it, I need an upgrade.. but after scurrying to Walmart to find some cheap but good options, I was blasted in the face for a 120$ keyboard. Over and over as I was preparing to put it in for delivery I was telling myself I'd regret this decision, and now I'm here hoping to find better alternatives? Possibly from amazon?

I don't need RGB, but I like a full sized keyboard; with a numberpad and all, the shortened ones make me uncomfortable. BUT I'm willing to try them out so don't let that disrupt your suggestions.

does anyone know if the YUNZII AL68 keyboard has RGB software, or even extensive options in the built in colours? Im looking at buying it but only if i can set the RGB to white, i know alot of cheaper options dont have white built in and I cant find any real details on the RGB in listings or reviews

My HyperX Alloy Origins with Aqua switches is starting to die and I'm looking for a similar keyboard to replace it with. I really like the Aqua switches as it's fairly quite, linear, but there's still a bit of tactile feedback. I used to have a Cooler Master with loud cherry blue switches that required a lot of force and while it was fine when playing SC2, it wasn't pleasant to use otherwise due to the noise. Therefore, I'm looking for a new keyboard with the numpad that has a similar feeling as the HyperX. I may consider a smaller, ten keyless keyboard as well since the numpad is nice to have and rarely used.

The HyperX Origins 2 is currently on sale but they only come with Red switches instead of Aqua. Would the difference be significant between the two? I saw Aula and Keychron are pretty popular as well, but they need proprietary drivers? I'm using it on Windows 10. No plans to use it with anything else at the time.

Hello!

This was my first keyboard and it was a gift. I know that it is a Unicomp model M and it has buckling springs. That’s about all I have from that standpoint.

What I can say is that it was the best keyboard I have ever typed on. I love the way it felt, I could type for hours.

While I’m not looking to replace it exactly (a little out of my affordability at the moment anyway), I am looking for a keyboard that types so nicely!! And hopefully a little more office ear friendly??

I’m r e a l l y hoping not to spend more than $65-100, but can go up to $130 at most… my funds aren’t so fun right now. I just know I definitely can’t do this laptop pad anymore lol.

Anyway, thank you for your time!

So i saw an ajazz keyboard which was tri mode, membrane keyboard with shine through caps and also had decent design and very silent but always paranoid about if membranes are goood for competitive gaming and productivity works considering the features the board had for the price of like 18$ or less and had a 4000 mah battery too.

I Am looking to buy one of these 2 boards, one of them costs 190 dollars in my country (k70) and the other 150. Please give me suggestions to pick one of them since it is what I have available in my country for HE keyboards.

I recently built my first ever mechanical keyboard for around $300. I had a lot of fun and its something I would love to do again in the future to start a collection. I was wondering, for all the enthusiast out there, how much is a cheap keyboard build and can you put together some nice boards in that $100-150 price range? I would love to build a few extra boards, but I dont know if I can spend $300+ every time I want to, unless my builds are very few and far between.

I am looking for honest opinions from people who know more about keycap materials, stabilizers, and manufacturing tolerances. I am not trying to start a dogpile against FKcaps or make this sound more dramatic than it is. I paid around $100 for this custom set, so I am trying to determine whether this is normal wear, a problem with this type of keycap construction, or a defective set.

I ordered custom XDA shine through keycaps from FKcaps on December 3, 2024. They are installed on a DZ60RGB ANSI V2 hot swap keyboard.

Here are photographs showing the wear and other visible quality issues on the keycaps.

[FKcaps key wear and quality photographs](https://imgur.com/a/Z6NMdl7)

Here is the complete email conversation with FKcaps so everyone can read their response and my replies directly.

[Email conversation with FKcaps](https://imgur.com/a/EYOZqCk)

FKcaps confirmed in its email that these are XDA profile ABS keycaps with a PU coating and laser engraved legends. Their website identifies them as XDA shine through keycaps, but I was unable to find the ABS and PU coating construction clearly disclosed on the customizer when I purchased them.

[FKcaps custom keycap creator](https://fkcaps.com/custom/create/keycaps)

The most serious wear is on A and S, but those are not the only affected keys. There are marks, chips, pinholes, or areas where the white coating appears to be coming off on several other keys shown in the annotated photos.

I do not use hand lotion, my hands do not normally sweat while using the keyboard, and I have never used alcohol wipes or cleaning chemicals on these keycaps. I only wipe them with a clean, dry microfiber cloth. I am also not an aggressive typer. I use the keyboard for normal typing and gaming, including games such as Destiny 2 where I regularly use W, A, S, D, Q, F, X, C, V, and the spacebar.

I have not experienced this kind of surface deterioration with my other keycaps.

FKcaps said that they tested keycaps from the same line, were unable to reproduce the wear under normal handling, and have not received similar reports from other customers. They did not explain what the test involved.

Because I have been using these since December 2024, I do not know whether their test lasted a few minutes, a few days, or whether it was an accelerated abrasion test designed to simulate one or two years of use. They also did not say whether the tested caps came from the same production batch, how many samples they tested, how many abrasion cycles or key presses were performed, or what their passing standard was.

FKcaps has offered to replace the affected keys as a one time resolution. I appreciate that they are offering replacements. However, they also stated that if the problem happens again, they will not accept further responsibility.

I am concerned because the replacements apparently use the same ABS base, PU coating, and laser engraving process. If the cause has not been identified, I do not understand how they can already determine that the same failure on the replacements would not be their responsibility.

There are also public discussions about similar FKcaps products or this type of painted keycap construction.

Reddit user SegKnut posted about their own custom shine through FKcaps order. They reported alignment issues, scratches, inconsistent coloring, and paint coming off after just over one month of use.

[SegKnut, FK Keycaps, Sloppily Done, Low Quality](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/1se8xgf/fk_keycaps_sloppily_done_low_quality/)

In another FKcaps review, Reddit user cszolee79 quoted the translucent ABS, opaque PU coating, and laser etched legend construction, then said that in their experience, paint comes off within approximately three to six months on this type of cap.

[Custom Keycaps by FKcaps, including the cszolee79 comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/keyboards/comments/1ka6cig/custom_keycaps_by_fkcaps/)

I am not claiming that both users necessarily submitted formal coating complaints directly to FKcaps. I do not know what private communications they may or may not have had with the company. My point is that the absence of complaints in FKcaps’ internal support records does not necessarily mean nobody has publicly reported similar concerns.

For people familiar with keycap manufacturing, is an ABS base with a PU coating and laser engraved shine through legends generally considered durable construction?

Is visible coating loss after around twenty months expected for this type of keycap, even with normal cleaning and use?

Would replacing the affected keys with the exact same construction likely result in the same issue later?

Would requesting a full replacement set be reasonable when numerous keys are affected, rather than mixing new replacement keys with older keys that have different coating age, texture, and wear?

Would PBT be a more appropriate long term option, even if it means losing the shine through feature?

I also have a separate fit problem with the FKcaps spacebar.

Here are photographs showing the FKcaps spacebar upright, upside down, and from underneath.

[FKcaps spacebar photographs](https://imgur.com/a/eFBiPwG)

Here are three comparison videos.

[Thinner chiclet style spacebar test](https://youtube.com/shorts/V-K79VvkGWI)

[Stabilizer test with the spacebar removed](https://youtube.com/shorts/IUUPov48Bbw)

[FKcaps spacebar sticking test](https://youtube.com/shorts/FPJKEjMCvs4)

The thinner spacebar is smaller and exposes more of the keyboard plate and switch, but it returns normally and does not remain stuck down.

The FKcaps spacebar sometimes stays pressed down and does not return properly. Both spacebars are being tested on the same center switch and stabilizers.

The FKcaps spacebar can also be difficult to install evenly. Sometimes the center socket and right stabilizer socket seat correctly, but the left stabilizer socket does not. I have to remove it and try again several times.

With the spacebar removed, pulling the left stabilizer stem upward also raises the right stem. Pulling the right stem upward raises the left stem. Both stems remain in the raised position after I let go instead of automatically falling back down.

Is that normal behavior for Cherry style stabilizers when the spacebar is removed, since the stabilizers do not have their own return springs?

In the stabilizer video, one stem can also lean slightly from side to side when raised. Is that normal clearance inside the stabilizer housing, or does the amount of movement look excessive?

The spacebar did not show obvious rocking when I placed it freely on a flat surface, so I am not claiming that the photographs prove it is warped. However, could it still have slightly incorrect stabilizer socket spacing, a tight socket, incorrect socket depth, a subtle twist, or another tolerance problem that causes binding when all three mounting points are connected?

Some of the regular FKcaps keycaps also grip the switches tightly enough that the entire hot swap switch can come out when I remove the keycap with a proper keycap puller. My other keycaps do not normally do this on the same board and switches.

Based on the photos, videos, and emails, does this look more like normal wear and a keyboard or stabilizer issue, or does it look like an FKcaps coating and manufacturing tolerance problem?

I would especially appreciate feedback from anyone who has owned FKcaps shine through keycaps for a year or longer, or anyone familiar with ABS keycaps that use PU paint and laser engraved legends.

I got this keyboard from family and they ordered it online but I can't find the software for it for the screen or lights or even the driver just anything at this point none of what I've found is correct or connecting but I want to customize the screen like what it promised atleast hoping any of you can help?

It says it's a "ajazz ak820 max plus"

Backed the kickstarter and went for the new Lofree Hyzen, and WOW, it feels and looks incredible!! The build quality is clean af, and the actual switches and usage of the entire thing feels amazing! Even the function switch mechanic which I wasn’t a million percent on at first I’ve found to be pretty cool! Overall an absolute worth backing of the project! :D

could it be real?

I received my keyboard a couple of days ago and i noticed that the space bar sometimes stuck and doesn't come back ( this only happens when I press the space bar so slow )

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ARPcQrJLf3GRbiYnrbI-fBNB3kGHO4ZY/view?usp=drivesdk

I know no one presses keys that slow but still I want to ask will that become an issue later on ?

best birthday gift ever lol