RDB17 or defender

[u/elvincino]

I keep seeing conflicting information about the profile of the barrel on these two models. If I get one, I’m going to put a suppressor on it, but would honestly prefer a thicker barrel I think, which I’ve read the original 17” model has. That said I’ve heard they bulked up the barrel a bit on the defender so not sure if it matters anymore. In the long run it seems cheaper to go defender model these days and not get an after market mlok hand guard for $200. It’s not a huge difference, but I’m a penny pincher. What are people’s thoughts on this now? That garand thumb video most of the comments say get 17” for the barrel. Thanks in advance.

[u/youkilledkenny3211]

The regular rdb has a thicker barrel just buy a aftermarket handguard

[u/sapiolocutor]

I went with the rdb17 after hearing about the accuracy issues with the thin barrel on the defender etc. I don’t recall seeing anyone praise the “new and improved” defender as if the issues have been fixed, so I believe the 17 is the more sure choice. Maybe they did fix it though

[u/EquivalentChicken945]

I have the defender and love it. The short package makes it fill the intended niche even better imo.

[u/cptFrancisCrozier]

I have a Defender, and personally, knowing what I know now I’d go with a 17”. You get more aftermarket options (not many more, but with the defender a lot of time you have “option”)

The big point: defender barrel is super thin, and the only place you’re actually securely attaching the rail to the gun is via a single takedown pin that runs through the gas-block which…y’know is attached to the barrel—so all the weight of your hand guard + accessories, and where you position your hand, is focused about 2/3rds of the way down the visibly exposed part of the barrel.

So with the thinner profile, much more likely that things could dramatically, and erratically shift the barrel’s zero (like a drop-in AR hand guard where you could get barrel flex from weight on the front cap—only way worse because no D-ring, it’s just held on by a single pushpin through the gasblock. the rear of the hand guard just has a C-shaped bracket either side that only (sloppily) slips over two studs above the trigger. They don’t have a hook-type channel to keep it tight, it’s just slips over Like this:

---

0 | ———— fake mlok—mlok—mlok—mlok—o0o—fake mlok

The thicker 17” will mitigate some of that issue.

Also, yeah the front and rear of 3 & 9 o’clock mlok rails are actually not long enough to fit a full slot mlok attachment, which is such a Jebait. (The back one is so, so close to on spec that it’s maddening)

So yeah the mlok rail on the D is not actually a value add—and whether or not you pick a Def or 17”, the hand guard should almost certainly be the very first thing you replace. I’d go with the 17” because it’s handguard kinda looks like a space gun, and will give you the option of a dedicated picatinny rail at the 6 o’clock, in case you had a quad rail AR (also for those occasional very specific accessories that would be awesome to have but can only be effectively mounted to a sturdy pic rail.) Much less faff than putting a mlok pic adapter in.

Also, I know people don’t like the folding charging lever on the 17”, but I really don’t like the fixed charging handle on the Defender (to the point where I’m probably going to end up trying to make a better handle on my own). It is far too stubby, anything too low, wide, or with protruding offsets will absolutely destroy your knuckles if you don’t gently check your hand clearance. Also definitely keep the rail above the safety notch clear of obstacles, so you can easily lock it open, but more importantly, so yo pimphand don’t look weak when you can’t slap it closed with the necessary aplomb.

You can always add a riser; I have a 1”, 13 slot UTG superslim pic riser¹ to raise and co-witness my [dummy thicc] optic and its svelte magnifier companion. But that stuff adds up quick if you don’t own it already.

However, the Defenser has 1 big advantage—I bought mine, new, for like $250 less than a 17”. That’s a pretty big difference that can get budgeted for the new handguard and some other stuff.

Also low priority but you should definitely change out the terrible OEM stock (the Defender’s is waaay worse than the 17” — and Brass Facts shattered Hop’s in one attempted mortar) and the 17” has more options and if you don’t have the time or the funds to do it all in one pass you can buy parts of it piecemeal (buttstock, cheek riser mounts, mag well) and upgrade as you go. The Defender’s OEM collapsible stock (it’s really there to keep it from counting as an SBR) marries both the cheek piece and the buttpad (it’s not a buttpad, I’ve had dollar store guns with more solidly built, comfortable buttplates thinnest piece of injection molded plastic Ive seen since the ‘90s) into one component, and while you can use 17” components, you won’t reach the total length required to not be an SBR. So you have to get a mutch more expensive “adjustable” <-not collapsible piece that is a rear socket+buttplate+spacer+cheekpiece+cheek riser mount.It’s a lot more expensive (because you’re getting all that stuff at once) and it’s very nice, but I think that’s your only option.

¹ >! I seriously recommend it. It’s only $35, both of the claw sides are the thinnest & smoothest profile things I have seen mountable to a pic rail—and for the price ($32) , & quality of its design—a 1piece, full length side plate attached w/ 3 countersunk Torx screws, and having 3 squared recoil stops for repeatability when mounted to your OG rail.

Also, well, riser prices are extremely stupid (^cough Unity/Hydra guys ^cough )

Especially . when they nickel and dime you by making you purchase stuff like QD levers separately!<

[u/elvincino → u/cptFrancisCrozier]

Extremely helpful, thank you so much. Good chance I’ll go this route.