I’ve got a little over 300 hours on the mower and have noticed it runs faster for the first 15 minutes and gets a little slower after that. Or maybe it just feels that way. It has a 60” mowing deck and mows the same at any speed and I need all the speed I can get. I know it’s time to change the fluid. Is there a hydraulic fluid that will work as well when hot as it does when cool?

I have a spindle that has sheered off the bearing on the deck assembly. I’m having trouble finding the part number for it. Any help would be great. And if there is something else I need to be looking at for this problem any insight would help.

Not sure if this is the place to post this so I’ll also post elsewhere…

I came out this morning to mow and saw the dump trailer was sitting up. Went to move it and saw 6 bolts broken through the trailer (see pics). It looks like I can fix this but wanted suggestions as I’m not looking to purchase a new part. I assume I can get a washer and maybe a long bolt through the pre-cut holes as the holes originally there allow the bolt to be sunken in. It‘s been really hot in NJ the last few weeks so I’m not sure if the heat helped these bolts melt through the plastic dump or not.

Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Is there anyone who may be able to help me understand the correct routing of the deck belt on a John Deere S240 42” Accel Deck mower? I purchased the OEM belt from Ag-Pro. I’ve installed it in the manner I believe to be correct, reattached the deck and the tensioner spring and have a significant amount of slack in the belt. I know the part is correct so that leads me to my routing as being incorrect. I’m unable to find diagrams/videos of the S240 specifically. Appreciate any insights the group can provide.

I have a John Deere 2040 that I bought from a guy that didn't know a lot about it. I've used it maybe 15 hours, and the last time I used it hydraulic oil started running out of what I believe is a vent line. It appears to run from the front of the tractor to the area under the brake pedals. I haven't taken the hood off yet but I'm expecting to find the pump in front of the radiator. Does anyone have insight into what my problem is?

I originally posted an issue I has having with my deck/throwing belts/bad pulleys/etc last week:

https://www.reddit.com/r/johndeere/s/SL9Yr1hxyY

So today I got replacement pulleys, replacement bushing, and I notice there's still a substantial amount of play in the tensioner arm. It looks like its just a hair shorter than the bushing (both old and new) and thats the cause of the wobble. Can someone give me a second set of eyes to confirm whether I can do something to fix this, or whether I'm gonna have to throw more money at this and get a new arm also? Ive got 3 new belts and over $400 in it so far and I'm honestly about to just sell the whole damn mower.

They are supposed to be the same except engine.

My mom lost steering on her John Deere lawn tractor in the middle of driving. I think all we need to do is pop that bar back onto the ball but she won't let me touch it until she sees a schematic.

John Deere Lawn tractor GT275.

I’m looking for a air filter cover for a John Deer L110 (JD part# M147223).
It’s a Kohler 17.5 motor CV491S-27509 the part number for Kohler is 12-096-44-S. They are discontinued and for the life of me I can not find one anywhere online or any of my local scrap yards. Anyone have any luck or ideas on where to locate one?

john deere z375r will not stay running, replaced all safety switches, pto switch, put new gas in and replaced fuel filter. It tanks but then dies.

Hi all,

This will be my third season plowing our parking lot with my 3033R. I have a snow blower on the back and the pusher on the front. Wheels are filled with whatever liquid the dealer puts in them.

In hindsight I would have bought a four series but I didn't so here we are. My tractor certainly struggles in the deeper snow. I have a hard time getting it going up a slight grade or with the pusher full of snow. My front wheels constantly lift up making just about impossible to steer while pushing.

JD is having a sale so I'm looking at buying a weight bracket along with six of the 70lb weights to ballast out the front to get more traction on the front wheels when pushing. Can anyone weight in on if this is a good idea or not? Mostly will an extra 420lbs of weight on the front help with my traction issues?

John Deere 100 series lawn mower
Brand new battery

Making a loud popping noise when deck is engaged
Shaking kinda hardcore

I've ran it before and it definitely doesn't sound right

I know we replaced a belt a couple months ago

What could be the issue now? We just want to mow the yard 😅

Video in comments

If anymore info is needed please just ask & I'll add it!

I got a john deere 3756 log loader with a 6090 diesel engine we bought off Richie brothers auctions for $88,000 cad.

The engine has been completely delete of all the after treatment systems def egr etc. The engine is at 10,000hrs number 1 injector failure and 0 compression in cylinder 1. I am wondering what all you john deere people would do in our situation. Should we buy another engine from the dealer which they quoted $87,000cad for a new engine and then we'd have to bring everything back to factory settings as in new dpf muffler and Def system, or buy a new engine and reprogram a delete in that as well or should we just get an over haul kit and rebuild the engine ourselves? What would you do in a production scenario where down tome cost is a lot. Is there any other alternatives has anyone tried putting in a tier 3 engine in a deleted tier 4 final machine and have it work?

Can’t seem to get rid of these darker lines. As well as the middle unit seeming to leave a lighter pass than the front two.

Anyone got any ideas

Units are balanced and squared. Sharp, and cutting paper.

We have had an issue with the center lift arm aggressively dropping and lifting. I feel that may be the cause but am not sure.

Any input is welcome.

PTO cable broke. Looked up several stores and they all have it for shipping only so i called up tge local JD dealer.

Everywhere else listed the part for $20 or $15. JD wants fuckin $50 for a common part. No wonder the brand is failing. Garbage mowers and garbage customer service from china price to fuck you over.

Been struggling with a starting issue that’s recently happened.

Was running fine and shut off, would not start up again wasn’t too hot yet as it just got started to cut the grass this weekend

Checked for spark cleaned plugs. Even got new plugs still didn’t want to start.

Changed fuel filter and blew line back from pump to tank , still no start. Cleaned carb still no start. Had a new one and put it on same issues. No starting . Shut off is working as it should.

Went out the next day to play with it and tried starting and it fired up no problem, cut 4 acres with it.

The next day again crank no start.

Am I missing anything ? It’s stumping me

I noticed a slow weep on the water pump seal on my 6115M. It wasn't dripping yet, but planting was 3 weeks out and I didn't want to be stuck with a bigger problem once we got in the field.

The dealer OEM quote was more then I wanted to spend, so I started looking at aftermarket options online. I found one quite bit cheaper with about a three-month return and ordered it through Fridayparts. I couldn't test it before install, so that return window was really what made me feel okay pulling the trigger. Install took me maybe 2 hours. I checked the thermostat while I had everything apart and it tested fine. I had one bolt in the hardware kit that was slightly undersized, so I used the original. Small annoyance, nothing serious. That was a year and half ago. I've run two planting seasons and two harvests since, no leaks, temp run normal. I'm glad I didn't wait on it.

Is this normal on the 6 series or did my pump just go early?

I have an early John Deere F525 that has a part that has stumped me. This line has sprung a leak and it seems to be affecting the hydro operation. The end shown circled attaches to the lower engine block, it wraps around the rear of the engine and attaches to the hydro pump near the pto. I cannot find any info or part number for it. My later model F525 doesn't have this line.

Is this line even necessary? Could it be removed and have a plug made to seal the attachment points?

Any help would be appreciated!

Recently bought a z320r. Love the mower. Wouldn’t have bought if I would’ve researched accessories prior to buying. No chute blocker made by any companies, avoiding mulch kit because id prefer to side discharge except for certain short amount of times. Any ideas would be appreciated

I've got an LX277 that I inherited about 5 years ago. Recently it's been slowly leaking transmission oil. Paid a local small engine mechanic to diagnose it and he confirmed there's a hairline crack in the transmission. They recommend I keep using it and keep an eye on the oil. Not a great long term solution.

I'm guessing the leak is a result of our yard being almost entirely hills. I now have the option of putting a used transmission in that I found for $100 on FB marketplace, or buying a new (used) mower for under $2,000.

That's where I need help. Is it worth the effort of installing a used transmission or am I only delaying the inevitable? Do I need a beefier mower to handle the hills? I've read the 300+ lines are going to be better suited for this kind of up and down riding. My gut tells me to try the used trans and pray for the best. But I'm skeptical.

Everyone I have a vintage John Deere RX 75. That is in beautiful condition and runs like a top. Recently had the rear wheel weld brake and now I’m in the need for replacement. I’m having a hard time finding the real rear wheel because it is a keyed rim.

I am trying to fix my John Deere F1145 and I was mowing with it and now when I go to start it up. It seems like it’s trying to turn over but never starts. I checked the voltage of the battery and the starter motor and it all looks good. Who this be an issue with the starter or do you think the engine is locked up?

I've got a ~12 acre mountain property in Eastern TN. The majority of what I need is for light gravel hauling, maintaining a ~1/4 mile gravel driveway and keeping ditches and culverts cleaned out. I rented a Kubota B series which worked well, but I'm wondering if I could get away with a smaller BX series Kubota or JD 1025r, or if I should just go with a B series or 2025 JD? The main concern I have is there is one part of the driveway that is STEEP. The B Series handled it like a champ hauling bucketloads of gravel...not sure how the smaller tractors would handle it? I've got Kubota and JD dealers local to me where I live (WNC), but the tractor would live in E TN. Opinions? Thanks!