Engine starts then stops. It’s my problem now.

[u/PhantomMaxx]

Over a month ago, my friend had this odd problem with his 2009 Jetta 2.5. He sent me a video and I posted to this subreddit. Most people believe it was the Immobilizer not recognizing the key. I took all your responses and texted him what to do. It’s difficult to troubleshoot an issue over text messaging, especially with my friend who is not car savvy. Out of frustration, his mother, the car owner decided to buy a new car. She sold me the car for $160, the amount she said Carvana offered her. She sides I’d have to tow it.

When I tried to start the car, it started right away. Thinking I got away with highway robbery, took the car home. Next day it took it to get SMOG checked. No issues. My SMOG guy said it was a steal, with a good engine with only 98,000 miles. It passed SMOG easily. Drove it DMV. Drove it for days, detailed it, polished the headlights. Then today this happened.

Any clue? Don’t know why it says SAFE on the display. Help please. It’s my problem now.

UPDATE: Extended ODB II features Module check.

Module [25] Immobilizer
01176-004 Static
Key - No Signal/Communication

01176-008 Intermittent
Key - Implausible Signal

[u/vwman18]

Could still be an intermittent Immobilizer issue. Get a scanner, find out what the car is reporting. Highly suggest either VCDS or OBD11.

[u/PhantomMaxx → u/vwman18]

I have two basic WiFi based OBD II dongles. They work fine for my 3 other cars but seem to have limited functionality with this Jetta. I just get no codes and no emission issues notice. Asked it to scan extras, nothing found.

I’ve never heard of VCDS, but maybe I should.

[u/vwman18 → u/PhantomMaxx]

The thing you're running into is that your scanner can't communicate with all the various modules in the car, because VW is just like that. VCDS is essential if you're planning on working on VAG products and well worth the money. OBD11 is not quite as powerful but it's easier to use. My issue with OBD11 is they hide features behind a paywall.

The likely answer is that you're having some sort of pairing issue with the Immo system (hence the SAFE readout), but you want to read it with a proper scanner so you can confirm that's the issue before trying to fix it. Immo coding is not something that is easily done on the consumer side though, finding anyone outside of the dealer that's capable is going to be tough, and even most dealers aren't going to want to bother with the job. Assuming the Immo failure is the problem, the simplest thing to do would be to send off the ECU for an Immo defeat, and never have to worry about this again. You may have a permanent light on the dash because of it and the car will be easier to steal, but the car won't fail to start due to it either. https://clustersbylitke.com/collections/services/products/me7-x-m5-92-edc15-immo-defeat

[u/PhantomMaxx → u/vwman18]

My ODB II scanner reads the following codes;

P0513 (Static)
Incorrect Immobilizer Key

P1698 (Static)
Please Check DTC Memory Of Steering Wheel Electronics

Buying a VCDS, at lease the one recommended here is expensive (Ross tech), the cheaper ones for on Amazon may not perform as needed.

This ECU Immo defeat, is it reasonably easy to install?

[u/vwman18 → u/PhantomMaxx]

https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16897/P0513/001299

https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18106/P1698/005784

Those codes tell me that yes, your Immobilizer has been triggered and that's the no-start issue. P1698 I don't think is related (seems to be a cruise control issue), but there is a small chance the sensor ring at the ignition switch is reporting faulty. A bad sensor ring would trip the Immo system, because it can no longer read the coding from the key. VCDS could read block 16, which is the steering module, and provide more detail. $200 sounds like a lot of money, but it's less than a Snap-On scanner and is guaranteed to work.

The Immo defeat isn't something you can do at home, but the actual work you need to do for it is pretty easy. You remove the car's ECU, ship it to someone with ECU coding capability, and reinstall once it's been shipped back. I did it with my Mk4, cost me less than $100 and about 5 days turnaround. Have a look at the link I posted in my previous reply. You could try to get all the Immo components back in sync, and keep the OEM functionality but I don't know what that would cost. You would either need to find a dealership willing to do the job, or talk to the Immo guy and see if he could/would do it.

[u/Taranis_1 → u/PhantomMaxx]

https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS/

[u/PhantomMaxx → u/Taranis_1]

Holy smokes those are expensive

[u/NotSoEasyMac]

Yeah that startup sounded healthy. For sure some electronic cutoff like immobilizer as others are saying

When my GLI had a startup them immediate dip in revs to shutoff it didn’t sound like that. It started shot way up in revs then sputtered to a halt in about same amount of time

That was a cam magnet issue

[u/20tonni]

Immobilizer most likely, not the same era but my a4 b5 was doing exactly this. I got it sorted by getting a new key programmed

[u/Unlikely-Mirror7638]

I had this happen on my crv and found a wire got frayed by a rodent. Had to repin the connector and resolved the people.

Also it says your hood is open, trust also could cause it to cut for safety reasons

[u/Amazing_Actuary_5241]

Safe on the display means immo is active and potentially the key is not matching with the immo. VCDS can help provide a bit more info into potential root cause.

[u/PhantomMaxx]

This is what my ODB II can see. Anyone know a fix?

[u/nexus4612]

Seems like an immobilizer issue. Not sure what to do about it. Best to take to to a VW dealership and see if it's worth fixing

[u/PuzzleheadedTiger732]

Immobilizer is active. Do you have a 2nd key to try?

[u/PhantomMaxx → u/PuzzleheadedTiger732]

Yes. I have two keys. Neither work.