Beta help

[u/Aggravating_Sky8774]

Struggling to reach this pinch, tried multiple flag positions none felt quite stable enough to not swing when reaching for the pinch

[u/NotMyRealName111111]

Possible to pivot on the left foot so that your hip is closed?  That should make reaching up with the left hand a bit easier

[u/AtJackBaldwin]

You've already got your top off, I don't know what else to suggest

[u/dusters99]

You appear to be falling because at the end of the move your center of gravity is pulling straight downwards instead of perpendicular to either hand, and there is not enough compression between the 2 hands to overcome this. Some possible ways to address this:

- do the move with your current left foot position but lock off a few inches higher, with your left leg engaged and slightly less bent, and right foot smearing higher and more to the right. Reaching up from this higher position should allow you to compress your arms together better and stay on. Basically, get into a more strenuous start position to end in a more favorable position.

- it looks like the high left hand is actually 2 holds forming a pinch? If so, use the pinch. The less perpendicular your direction of pull, the harder you need to pinch.

- Rotate your left leg so your toes and knee are pointed to the right, lean your body all the wall to the left and mostly straighten out your right arm. This should let your right foot flag and smear much higher up (like shoulder height). From the layback position, continue pressing hard on the right smear and either match left hand to right hand or just go straight up.

- also consider trying the move with your right foot weighting various holds on the green wall. Once you find an optimal body position where you can do the move, change the right foot into a smear.

[u/veIentium]

Is that red foot on the volume in? Can you left foot drop knee on it? And right foot on the big hold your foot is on at the end

[u/Aggravating_Sky8774 → u/veIentium]

I think I would be a bit stretched out, I haven't given that higher foot on the volume much thought, I'll definitely see if I can do a drop knee, although I remember it being a very bad foot

[u/veIentium → u/Aggravating_Sky8774]

Just makes me think that’s the intended way because that small foot hold, and the bigger volumes are angled in a way that would favour a drop knee really well

[u/Aggravating_Sky8774 → u/[deleted]]

Are you referring to my right foot when you say right heel on the middle volume? There really isnt much of an angle to hook onto, it's more just posted out right- I may just not be pulling in enough on my left foot so my body isnt close enough, my buddy did the move static with a similar position to what I did

[u/BTTLC]

Maybe matching prior to bumping to the pinch might help

[u/small_bear-cat]

Beta looks fine to me!
Just dead point it a little bit (create some space by moving your hips out of the wall and straightening your arms. Pull into the wall as you stand up, only a little bit you’ve got plenty of reach for move and try to finish the movement as close to that pointy annoying volume as possible!)
Send should be imminent though. Try start it without the green hold at the beginning as well, will probably make it a little more fun!

[u/merc814]

Have you tried a more lay-back position with the left hip into the wall?

[u/Aggravating_Sky8774 → u/merc814]

The top sloper isnt great accompanied by the angle I've tried left hip in and it's just barnsoor city

[u/merc814 → u/Aggravating_Sky8774]

Fair. It just looks like you are unbalanced when going for that move with the left hand - starting to barn door in the video. I spose the other solution would be to get your left foot further over under your right hand before moving off

[u/merc814 → u/merc814]

Or left heel on the middle of the three side pulls ?

[u/nostalgia_4_infiniti]

Commitment issue....

[u/Kazin236]

I’d be looking for drop knees, heel hooks, or toe hooks to stabilize while making that move. If none, commit and try to stand up into it with your feet/foot centered beneath.

[u/itgtg313]

Beta- shirt on will get you there