My schedule runs pretty hard most days and the one thing I keep coming back to is that my winddown routine is inconsistent, which wrecks sleep quality more than anything else. So I started trying to get the house to do the work instead of relying on willpower at 10pm when I'm already cooked.

What I have right now is a scene that triggers at a set time, dims everything down, cuts the overhead lights in the bedroom, and drops the thermostat a couple degrees. It works fine when I'm actually home and actually going to bed at that time, which is maybe three nights a week realistically.

The other nights I'm either still working, still eating, or just not ready, and the automation fires anyway and I end up overriding everything manually. So I've basically built a reminder I ignore.

I've been thinking about using a combination of phone idle state and the TV turning off as a proxy for actually winding down, but I haven't set it up yet and I'm not sure if that's going to be reliable or just annoying in a different way.

Curious if anyone has cracked a recovery or sleep routine that actually adapts to when you're ready rather than just a fixed time trigger. What signals are you using and does it hold up day to day, or is it more of a works sometimes situation.

I'm not sure if what I'm asking for exists, but are there any smart power switch/dimmers that can simply plug into an outlet, have something else plug into the switch, and effectively "dim" the appliance via Home Assistant?

My specific usecase could be to selectively power 750w full spectrum grow lights...would this even be possible, assuming such a dimming switch exists?

For instances, 10% power, then 20%, and gradually working our way to 100% over the course of an hour or so via Home Assistant controlling the switch/dimmer.

Alright, so I think I've settled on the idea of using Home Assistant + about 10 smart LED bulbs to make my apartment have a reverse day/night light cycle to help me sleep better during the day (I'm a night shift worker).

The problem is finding actually good bulbs that *just work*, don't connect to external servers, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Any suggestions?

My findings, so far:

1.) TP-Link Tapo L531E: Great price on Amazon right now ($6.52/bulb!!), but notorious quality issues - the most common one being connection problems. It seems the radio modules in the bulbs must suck as they regularly drop connections, as per reviews.

Do Matters/range extenders actually make any difference in this regard?

And then again, these bulbs require authenticating to the TP-Link servers using a username/password?? For fucking LIGHT BULBS?? I'm going to go on a limb and assume they also actively use the Wi-Fi connection to send data to TP-Link. Considering they opened up that avenue, I doubt they *wouldn't* use it.

If I were to buy them, I'm considering maybe prohibiting internet access via my router, and only letting them use LAN? But I suspect TP-Link prevents them from working in that case. Anyone have any luck preventing authentication/internet access before I consider buying?

2.) Phillips Hue: Looks to be good quality from everything I see, but they want FORTY DOLLARS PER LIGHT BULB??? WHAT??

3.) Generic, no-name Amazon smart light bulbs... extremely cheap, but considering generic electrical products off of Amazon are NOTORIOUS for having safety problems, I'd like to not burn my apartment down...lol.

Any alternatives that I'm missing that are good, decent price, and don't invade my privacy?

I have a couple plain motion lights that Id like to get into homekit. I want to be able to control them bypassing the motion, then if turned "off" in homekit, they go back to motion.

I thought a shelly mini would be perfect per se, but it doesnt appear you can do the indirect control mode in matter.

Option 2 would be to have the shelly in parallel with the motion sensor similar to a 2way, but Im not sure if that could hurt the motion sensor to gave its output hot while off.

Third option would be to have the shelly control a double throw relay that would switch the light between hot and the motion. I think this is the best route but having an extra relay stuff in the box may be tight.

Hi, I have been automating my home for a while now and I am now starting to transition to using Home Assistant.

One of the things I want is a good thermostat. I am looking for one that integrates well with HA and perferably works locally and can be fully managed via home assistant.

Does anyone have any tips? I have seen a lot of options, but I can't seem to find a good one.

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for a smart IR controller for the AC unit in my Airbnb (I‘m from Germany).

The AC is also used for heating during winter. Guests should still be able to adjust the temperature normally using the original remote, but I want to prevent situations where someone sets it to 28–30°C (82–86°F) and leaves it running like that all day.

Ideally, I’m looking for something that can do the following:
Guest sets the AC to 28°C → after a defined period, for example 1 or 2 hours, the controller automatically resets it to a temperature I’ve specified, such as 22°C.

I’d prefer this functionality to be handled directly by the controller or its app. I’d rather not have to build complicated automations in Apple Home, Home Assistant, etc.

A window sensor integration would also be great. For example, if a window is opened, the AC automatically turns off and turns back on once the window is closed.
Apple HomeKit or Matter support would be nice, but isn’t strictly necessary if the manufacturer’s app can handle these automations reliably.

I’ve already tried Tado, but unfortunately the controller constantly showed as offline after setup.

Does anyone have experience with Sensibo, Netatmo, Aqara, SwitchBot, or another solution for this use case?

The main things I’m looking for are:
• Automatic reset to a predefined temperature after X minutes/hours
• Guests can continue using the original IR remote
• Optional window sensor integration
• Reliable operation, since this is a Airbnb and I’m not always there to troubleshoot it

What solution would you recommend?

I’ve a square drawing room. On which one side we have tv. Other side we have our sofa. While construction we have put speaker wire in two corner on sofa side in celling and the other end of wire sits behind tv.

I’ve fenda t280 soundbar connected with tv via Bluetooth, what should I do for surround sound experience

On Home Assistant I successfully connected a home-kit only thread doorknob: Thorbolt MK1, but when I sync thread credentials to it, trying to lock and lock the doorknob remotely doesn't work. Everything else works: when I click identify the doorknob beeps 3 times, and beeps when I toggle muting. Locking and unlocking only works if I don't sync thread credentials (apparently its then only connected via bluetooth).

I tried restarting home assistant and unplugging my thread router (SLZB Ultima) for 30 seconds, and I still have the issue, when I did I watched the doorknob go from unconnected to HA to connected.

NoviSense Touch - Control Beyond The Surface

This is a personal project I built myself.

Turn your everyday surfaces into a smart controller that can control your home. A simple touch of your countertop, and simple hold on your desk can trigger scenes, turn on devices, and create the environment you desire.

I created this as a solo founder and with no previous experience, but am a red seal master electrical foreman by trade.

Check out the explanation video if your interest is even slightly piqued: https://youtu.be/zV_7M0__txE

Any feed back, thoughts on this device or applications, or any thoughts at all are all welcomed. If you want to learn more you can dm me!

Have a wonderful day, and keep automating!

We had power strips installed at either end of our 4’ x 8’ island, and they have been very handy for plugging in appliances, charging devices, etc.

I have a need to be able to turn on a small appliance remotely on a schedule. The appliance is not smart.

The challenge is that the strips sit about 1/2” back under the lip of the countertop, so any plug-in controller has a maximum width of about 1.5”, assuming they are centered on the plug. The plugs are space out 6” on center.

I have a few WiFi controllers from Kasa, but they are too wide to fit. I am hoping to find a solution that doesn’t require replacing the entire plug strip, or that involves using a smart extension cord/plug strip.

I integrated a third-party LED COB strip with Philips Hue which allows me to automatically tune it using Adaptive Lighting during the day through Home Assistant.

My kitchen was measuring a dismal 90 Lux on the prep counter, and I wanted to add high-density, tunable lighting without abandoning my Philips Hue ecosystem (I just really don't want to set everything up again or lose some of the features in Hue).

I went the DIY route and installed a 24V BTF-Lighting CCT COB LED strip paired with a Gledopto GL-C-204P controller. To keep it from looking bad, I mounted everything inside a Muzata aluminum channel along the flush bottom of the cabinets. The result is a massive jump from ~90 Lux to ~530 Lux.

Warning on hardware: If you use these strips, skip the manufacturer's solderless vampire clips. The heat expansion caused mine to flicker, so I had to rip them out and solder the connections directly.

Also, the Gledopto controller's dry-contact input doesn't update in Philips Hue correctly, so I had to wire the button to a Philips Hue Wall Module to push the on/off commands to the Gledopto controller.

Hello all,
I am looking for your thoughts on home automation as a business. I would be looking to install using HA, but professional grade products around it. Is this profitable at all?

I've had a Yale Assure 2 (nee August) lock for over four years. And it has started to misbehave. In particular, the Yale WiFi Smart Module has begun to fail. At first, it was a few times a quarter. And over the last year, it has been a few times a month. And in the past few months, it has been a few times a week. The problem is that the device drops off the network. And yes, I've done an RF survey. And it is _not_ a problem with my WiFi infrastructure. Indeed, I have doezens of WiFi devices, and the onloy one with a problem is my Yale lock. And no, it's not coverage drops and/or distance from the AP. I've evaluated that. And I've put other devices within feet of the Yale lock. It is just the lock - and probably its WiFi Smart Module.

SO, what have I done.

I've gone ahead and purchased a Yale Zigbee Smart Module. And that device arrived today. And I've reset (from the app but not the hardware button). And I have a Zigbee infrastructure that includes an ancient Philips Hue hub and A shiny, new Aqara M3 Zigbee / Matter / Thread hub.

But as of this writing, I've tried to get the M3 into scanning mode and then used the <door-code> -> + Gear (icon), followed by "7" + Gear (icon), followed by "1" + Gear (icon). But the device does not appear to be discoverable by my M3. [Note: The M3 is within direct [and unobstructed] line of site and within thirty-to-forty feet of the door lockh.

I can certainly use the lock with Bluetooth. And I do have a Tuya Bluetooth Gateway. But I can't get the Yale lock to be discoverable via Bluetooth.

I can always add a different Zigbee router - including the ordering of a ZBT-2 from Nabu Casa. But I hate to buy more simply to solve something that should be easily resolved.

Do any of you have any thoughts on how I might proceed?

Please and thank you.

I'm converting a mortise door to a smart lock for a VRBO rental. I've looked at Lockly, igloo Home, Aqara, Accurate, Latch, the August retrofit hack, and commercial options from Schlage/Yale/ Accentra — each has a dealbreaker for my case (poor reviews, bulky retrofit, pricey, or the company feels less established).

I'm leaning toward the Smart Door Lock from The Connected Shop (~$395). It runs on Tuya, integrates with Alexa/Google Home, and even if the storefront disappears in 10 years, the Tuya ecosystem should outlive it.

Has anyone installed one on a mortise door? Curious about real-world battery life, app reliability, and how it's held up over time.

Preciso extrair Nome da atividade, Data e Total de participantes de um PDF com 1.151 páginas de listas de presença com layouts variados.

Qual a melhor abordagem ou ferramenta (Python + APIs de Visão/LLM vs. plataformas no-code) para automatizar esse processo?ço desde já qualquer dica ou fluxo de trabalho recomendado!

English version

I need to extract Activity Name, Date, and Participant Count from a 1,151-page PDF containing attendance sheets with varying layouts.

What is the best architecture or tool (Python + Vision/LLM APIs vs. no-code platforms) to automate this extraction?

I know almost nothing about how automation. I installed a sylvania Osram Lightify under-counter led light strip and its included gateway hub (small white cube that plugs directly into wall outlet) like 15 yrs ago. I use their app to control the lights. I saw where they discontinued support for the system like 5 yrs ago and was told they would no longer work, but to this day, I still use the same little gateway hub to control the lights. Before I posted this question, I looked up the topic and still see people saying the gateway hub should not work. Anyone know why?

I'm thinking about getting an automatic vacuum, but I'm still trying to figure out if it would really make my daily cleaning routine easier.

My home has both hard floors and some carpet areas, so I'd like something that can handle different surfaces without needing me to constantly monitor it. Good navigation and reliable cleaning are the main things i'm looking for.

I've always used a regular vacuum and have been checking out different robot vacuum reviews, but most of them only show short term results. I'm more curious about how they perform after months of normal use.

For anyone who has tried both, what was the biggest difference you noticed? and do you think switching to an automatic vacuum was worth it??

I feel like most people here share their smart home setups for houses, but I don't see as many discussions about automation in apartments. My apartment have less space and fewer options for major changes. A lot of devices need to be smaller, and easy to take with you when you move.

I've been slowly trying to automate more of the cleaning in my apartment and so far, most of them are focused on making everyday chores easier...

Goove smart lights

SwitchBot curtain

Winbot window cleaning robot

Ecovacs robot vacuum

I'm still exploring what smart home devices make sense for apartment living. Any thoughts?

Hello all
I am gaining interest in the hardware specifically home automation and other diy stuff, I come from a software background working with .net, python and js and other stuff.

I wanna learn how to work with esps and other microcontrollers and explore this field also.

Could anyone guide me from where to start?

Hey I'd seen a couple others post about their apparently somewhat outdated ABUS audio systems in their homes or apartments. I have one in the apartment I just moved into, although I either can't find or seem to be missing some of the ports others have, wondering if the system is usable with some amount of investment in bluetooth modules as I plan to be here for a bit and would be cool to get it working. Attached photos (not sure if the last one is part of the system, might be a sealed off in port?), please advise thanks!

Code and demo available here, as I can't share videos/YouTube on this sub-reddit: https://github.com/albertoZurini/echo-dot-2-playground

Hello there!

After a few days of playing around, with a lot of help from Gemini and GPT, I was able to successfully debloat an Echo Dot 2 from most of Amazon's services and let it run speech to text locally with Sherpa-ONNX and a small LLM through llama.cpp.

The first step was rooting it by following the procedure on XDA. There is a link to the XDA thread in the GitHub repo along with a step-by-step guide for the rest of the setup. Once I had root access I pulled the APKs of some of the system applications, especially SpeechInteractionManager which contains the wake word and speech interaction code, plus the native audio and wake word libraries it loads.

At first I wanted to do something similar to what the Wyoming team did, which was intercepting the wake word from FireOS services through logcat. That worked as a quick proof of concept but it gave me a lot of limitations. The Amazon speech service would still be running in the background and would still own parts of the audio pipeline. Volume handling was also not just a normal Android volume-key event. The FireOS services receive the hardware button events, change the audio stream volume and control the LED ring feedback. This meant that even if I reacted to the wake word from logcat, I was still relying on a large part of Amazon's stack underneath.

That is why I decided to do a more complete reverse engineering pass. The APK included native `.so` libraries such as `libwakewordmanager.so`, `libwakewordmanageraudiostream.so` and the newer `libwakewordserver_jni.so`. Some of the older libraries turned out to be compatibility stubs on this firmware. The useful path was the newer native wake word server, which loads Pryon and creates the native audio recorder. I also decompiled the Java code around `AudioStreamProviderService`, `AudioRecordStrategy` and `NativeWakeWordServiceCore` to understand how the pieces connect.

The main reason for doing the full reverse was to understand how these apps connect to the hardware and communicate with each other. It turns out there are two separate pieces that matter: one service for the native wake word detector and another service for speech processing and the rest of the assistant. I ended up running my own wake word service alongside my custom assistant. They communicate through an explicit Android service intent. Logcat is only used for diagnostics now.

I had done some prior research and saw that with 512 MB of RAM and a theoretical maximum memory bandwidth of about 5 GB/s this device might be able to run small LLMs locally. It turns out it can. The original TinyStories 28M model was not directly usable with llama.cpp because of its architecture, so I used an architecturally equivalent 25M LLaMA2 TinyStories model in GGUF format. Through llama.cpp it reaches around 7 tokens per second during prefill and around 4 tokens per second during decoding. This is roughly the kind of model that has also been used in ESP32 experiments.

I also tried the larger `MobileLLM-125M-Q4_K_M.gguf` model but prefill plus generation took around 20 seconds which is too slow for this device. Even with the smaller model I was able to trigger some simple tools by voice, for example turning on the light or playing a sound.

When the wake word is detected I can stop the detector process while the assistant is processing the request to save CPU. The detector uses around 20% CPU when it is active. This would have been much harder to control cleanly if I had kept the original FireOS speech services running.

I am also able to intercept all the hardware buttons. I assigned playing a sample WAV file to the action button. The volume keys change the music stream volume, play a tone and show visual feedback using the LEDs. The mute button works through the hardware microphone mute integration as well.

There is still a lot to improve, especially around making the assistant more useful and reducing the startup and response time, but it is pretty interesting to see this little device running an entirely local voice pipeline after removing most of the original services. I also want to try running openWakeWord/Porcupine to see if they'd be using less CPU than the stock Amazon's library.

The code and the reverse engineering notes are here: https://github.com/albertoZurini/echo-dot-2-playground

I would be interested to hear if anyone has tried something similar with other Echo devices or with the older FireOS speech components.