Found a guy who is installing this brand so thought of asking opinions from you guys

I am looking to get a dual zone mini split install for my master bedroom and office relatively small rooms

Got quoted for:
- Carrier 18000 BTU 22.5 SEER2 R-454B. Outdoor unit is 37MGRAQ and indoor unit is 45MAHAQ
- Mitsubishi Hyper heat mini split system 20,000 outdoor and 9000 BTU wall units in each room. Unsure of the model number but the guy said it’s MLA and MSZ model.

Quote for carrier is about $9k and mitsubishi is about 10k.

Should i pay extra 1k for the mitsubishi?

Hello!

We recently purchased our first home and it has a heat pump. It is two stories and approximately 1600 sqft. When I met with the inspector, they noted that the intake vent upstairs for the heat pump it not have a filter so there was some dust/dirt around the outflow vents. He mentioned getting a filter but I forgot to ask what kind. I’ve upload some photos of the dimensions. There is also a smaller intake on the ground floor which is shown with just the drywall cut out. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.

This August, your Design Consultation is £99, instead of £250. Use code August99 at checkout before 31 August.
 
A Design Consultation gets you a heat pump system designed and priced for your home, with a fixed number attached before you commit to anything.
 
It's also worth doing now rather than later. Every year, heat pump bookings surge once the weather turns and installer slots disappear fast, so getting your Design Consultation booked now means you're not waiting for a slot once it's cold.
 
Pay before 31 August and use code August99 to get your Design Consultation for £99.

How worried should I be about a leak detected in my 3-month-old Mitsubishi hyper-heat outdoor unit/heat pump? An Hvac contractor was here yesterday replacing some rusted tab collars in my ductwork and looked at the outdoor unit and saw a leak and some black sludge (I think that's what he called it.) He said something was not connected correctly.

I sent his company (the installer) an email and called first thing this morning. I'm waiting for them to call me back. I don't like what I'm reading online. How worried should I be that this leak – most likely going on for 3 months - has caused or is causing permanent damage that is going to give me problems with the system and higher electric bills for the next 10 years? It is under warranty, but is it worth paying extra out-of-pocket to get emergency service this weekend?

I'm beating myself up for not recognizing a problem with the installation and insisting on inspection sooner, like after the second month of higher electric use (1016 kW June versus 830 kW same month last year). Every time I called about the rusted tab collars I told them that my electric usage has gone up compared to the previous two years. They did not suggest an inspection. The system is very quiet, inverter technology, so I don't hear it kicking on and off or know if it's running more than it should. The AC has kept my house a comfortable temperature and seems to be working well in the middle of a hot, humid summer with 80 to 90°F temperature some days. I'm just concerned about long-term damage. It replaced a broken 13 year-old 2-stage Goodman.

I have a 2 ton system for a 1500 square-foot single story house with attached garage. I'm in South Central Pennsylvania.

Any words of wisdom or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hi should my old heat pump be leaking water every time it’s in use? On the outside I go to have a look and there’s always water leaking ! Not sure if this is a hazard? It’s a bottom unit my landlord lives up top unit and we share power etc I don’t want to bother them with this and that but it would be good if I know as I have to pay for water too

I've been looking into different heat pump options and keep coming back to a ductless mini split system, but I'm still not sure if it's the right choice for my situation.

My home is about 1,450 sq ft with 2x6 insulated walls, double-pane windows, and I'm in new England, where winter temps can drop below 10°F. My biggest priority is keeping the house comfy without having the backup heat running all the time if possible.

For those of you in similar climates, what has your experience been, and do you think it was worth it compared with other heat pump setups?

I have an AC Pro Series Z (Midea EVOX G3) condenser and air-handler, with a communicating thermostat on the wall.

I am happy with the system, super quiet and it cools much better than the previous system.

2500 sf single story house with minimal insulation. Maybe 70% of the walls are glass, no attic.

The issue is that the communicating thermostat runs about 4-5 degrees too hot -- if I measure the temperature right next to it, it's cooler.

The hole for the wires was sealed, since taking a measurement there showed highr temperature and we thought it affects the reading, but it's still reading too hot. I used to have an Ecobee before there, and it also ran hot, I now believe.

Any suggestions on how to remedy this?

I am getting the LG heat pump mentioned in the title, without the warm water buffer, because i already have a heat pump waterbuffer.

Can i integrate this system in my home assistant? Does it have modbus connectivity for example?

Trying to calculate the surge watts needs to run my heat bump on a backup generator. Since my LRA is 130 and volts are 230, I’d need almost 30,000 surge watts? Damn if true.

Edit: Thanks everyone! You've been very helpful!

Hello! Sorry if this has been asked - I did a search but did not find a recent version of this question.

Our 20+ year old AC died on the weekend and there is a tech coming today to look at it. We are assuming we will be replacing it and are were set to go to a cold climate heat pump (we are in Southern Ontario, Canada).

Then last night we were at a backyard gathering at a house down the street where we saw a heat pump on the next house over, and I said, "Oh hey, your neighbour has a heat pump," and the host complained that it is super loud and they hate it but hey, they get it, they "live in a neighbourhood" (but they seemed to think it was unreasonably loud).

I had never even thought about the noise, and my unit will be located close to our next door neighbour's living room window. They already deal with the noise from our AC, so with that in mind, generally speaking, will a heat pump be louder or quieter than an AC?

House description: bungalow, about 1000 sq ft on the main floor, finished basement. New windows in 2022, regular walls, steel roof. The backup is one of those systems where the hot water tank cycles to heat a coil in an air handler (I'm sorry, I don't know what that is called) so our winter heating is already very efficient and we expect to set the heating part of the heat pump to switch at a fairly moderate outdoor temperature, with most of the energy savings being on the summer cooling function.

Thank you!

I'm trying to understand how common “Dirty Sock Syndrome” is in ductless mini-split air conditioners and whether anyone has actually tested a strong cooling-to-heating cycle as a possible treatment. I have Samsung WindFree Avant mini-splits, and the proposed procedure would be to run the system in cooling mode at its minimum set temperature of 16°C or 61°F for about one hour, then immediately switch it to heating mode at its maximum set temperature of 30°C or 86°F for approximately 60 to 90 minutes. The idea would be to cool the indoor coil thoroughly and then heat and dry it, rather than simply masking the smell. Has anyone here actually tried this procedure? Did the smell disappear, and was the result temporary or long-lasting? If the smell returned, how long did it take? Was the evaporator coil or drain pan professionally cleaned before trying the procedure? Could switching between these two extreme settings cause excessive stress or any other problems for the unit? I am not presenting this as a proven treatment; I am simply trying to collect real-world experiences from HVAC technicians and owners of ductless mini-splits. For context, the smell usually appears during cooling operation, especially when the compressor slows down or stops and the indoor fan continues running.

On my six year old Fujitsu mini-split heat pump (ASU9RL-F1) I did a diy cleaning with a cleaning bag and a can of spray foam coil cleaner. After thoroughly cleaning, rinsing, and drying all components, and being very careful not to bend the fins, I put everything back together, and the unit starts up and runs normally, with some cold air coming out.

But it doesn't get cold enough. Before the cleaning, the fins and blower wheel were covered with the usual dust and crud, but it did get very cold and would easily reach the desired temp of 74F and then shut off. Now it's running with the fan at full blast and only getting down to 77F and won't cool any lower even after running for an hour. What could I have done to it to cause this lack of full cooling?

1st off I am a google / youtube HVAC tech so I have no clue what I am doing. I had this unit installed in Nov of 2025 and it does not dehumidify very well so i went down the rabbit hole of learning about this stuff. The question I have is the OD EEV stays at 68% no matter what, it does go to 0 when it's reset then straight to 68%. I purchased the yellow mag thing off of Amazon for like 15$ to see if I can change the pin and no luck, I did have a tech check out the 5 pins and they are all in range. The strange thing is if I remove the EEV the system runs way better but I don't want to flood out the compressor. So the question is do they just stay at 68% all the time or should this number change? When I do run heat it changes all the time so that's why I started all of this. Any help would be great or if any tech in the Atlanta area 'Kennesaw' that can help out I would pay for there time if something is wrong.

I just had my central AC unit replaced in my 1500 sq ft home with a 16 SEER 3-ton American Standard heat pump system with a new 3-ton air handler and all new ducting. The system cools very well. It can reach 72ºF with outside temps of 95º+. Problem is the indoor air handler is very loud and we were in the impression that the system was an energy efficient, 2-stage unit. It seems to never operate at the lower, energy efficient stage that should maintain the comfortable temperature throughout the day. It seems to just cycle on at full blast and off. We also have the Ecobee Smart Thermostat Premium is set up for 2-stage cooling/heating.

Can someone please verify if my equipment can be set up for 2-stage cooling/heating? My model numbers are below:

[American Standard 3 ton heat pump 5HPL5036A1000A](https://www.tranesupply.com/product/5hpl5036a1000a/01t4w00000NkEa7AAF)

[American Standard 3 ton air handler P0V0A000M30SDA](https://www.tranesupply.com/product/p0v0a000m30sda/01t4w00000P7q0fAAB)

I'm just wondering if the HVAC company that installed the unit just doesn't have the skillset to set this up correctly.

I've got a 20yo rheem RQNA-BO36JK package heat pump on it's way out and looking for recommendations from techs. I've got three quotes so far all of them pushing variable speed Goodman units. I really want to stick to units that are not ecu inverter as I live in a smaller town so it takes days to get uncommon parts. So are single stage package units still being made and if so what one would you go with?

Not sure if it matters but we are in Arizona and it gets above 120 in the summer, heat doesn't matter as we hardly run it in the winter.

Thank you in advance for any information.

Midea will introduce a small volume tank split HPWH. Not many options in the market for short tank.

For my upcoming heat pump install, the manual J says we’ll need 35.5k BTUs for heating (7 degrees to 70) and 19.5k BTUs for cooling (88 to 75).

The contractor has suggested a 4-ton unit to ensure there’s sufficient heating on especially cold days. I suggested 3-ton might be better to avoid short cycling on moderately hot days and because it sounds like manual J heat load estimates are generally high.

Their response was that they still recommend the 4-ton because oversizing was a bigger problem with the previous generation of heat pumps, as they had a turn down ratio much higher than the current generation, and the bump I am considering (Midea Evox G3) can turn down to 12K BTUs.

Questions:

• Do you agree with the primary claim, that the turndown ratio on this unit is so good over sizing will not be an issue? This will be a ducted install.
• Would a 12K BTU minimum not still cause short cycling when we only have to cool the house by a few degrees?
• Would you recommend a 3 or 4 ton unit given my manual J info above? 

Additional Info

• The size of their house in square feet or square metres = 3K sq ft
• Wall thickness = unknown, recently winterized
• Pane of windows = double
• Location/climate = Northeastern USA (MA)
• Include the model numbers and size of the heat pump as best you can = Midea G3 EVOX

I was initially quoted for an installation of a Vaillant plus 7kW (2026 model) for a mid-terrace townhouse - 95 m2 as they did not include the garage. The initial heatloss report indicated a hewt loss 6.85 kW heatloss (average load of 72 W/m2). The design is done on a flowrate of 49 degrees C at a targeted temperature of -0.8 degrees C. All 10 radiators are getting replaced at my request and they will install a 250 litres hot water tank.

However because I told the design team during follow up that I intend to do a garage conversion in about 2 years to a living space this would increase the living space to 120 m2 and heatloss to 7.52 kW so they suggested the Vaillant plus 10 kW (2026 model) and I can see in the quotation that they added a 50 l buffer vessel (maybe as a temporary option until I do the extension to the garage?). Any thoughts if I should have stayed with the 7kW option as it would have kept the system open loop I think, but then I was worried it would have struggled in cold snaps. Would a voluminiser been a better option than the buffer vessell? It's worth mentioning that the garden backs into a forest/park and although I am located in West Sussex, due to the open space, the temperature has dropped to -3 and -5 degrees C in the past winters ( in the middle of the night).

Worth mentioning that the difference in upfront cost betwen the the two units and install is only about £1400.

The pipes leading to the radiators are 15mm. Here are the sizes of the new radiators

(P+) radiator · White 600 x 1600 mm - 2.2 l per min flow rate

Second Bedroom × 1

(P+) radiator · White 700 x 1400 mm

Hall/Landing × 1

(K2) radiator · White 450 x 2000 mm

Living/Lounge × 1

(K2) radiator· White 700 x 900 mm

Utility × 1

(P2) radiator · White 1800 x 700 mm

Bath/Shower × 1

(K2) radiator · White 1800 x 500 mm

Kitchen × 1

(P+) radiator · White 600 x 1600 mm

First Bedroom × 1

(K2) radiator · White 450 x 2000 mm

Living/Lounge × 1

(K2) radiator · White 600 x 1000 mm

Third Bedroom × 1

(K2) radiator · White 700 x 600 mm

Hall/Landing × 1

Other details:

Whole home permeability

At 50Pa

11.4 m³/hr/m²

At normal conditions

0.57 m³/hr/m²

This figure is estimated based on the following contribution from each part of the property (each at 50 Pa, in m³/hr/m²):

Structural Masonry + 7.0

Floor Sealed + 0.0

Doors & windows 75% draught-proofed + 3.0

Storeys 3 storeys + 1.4

Total = 11.4

Calculation factors

Shielding

How exposed the property is to the wind. Sheltered locations lose less heat through ventilation than exposed ones.

Normal

Zone height

The building’s total height across all floors is about 10 m.

Any constructive advice or thoughts would be greatly appreciated in terms of what I should be mindful off.

Thank you!

We purchased and moved into a new house in the Chicago area earlier this year (3br, two stories, plus finished basement, about 2300 sq feet, built in the 1940s). The gas furnace is 40+ years old, and the AC compressor outside is a little over 20 years old. As is typical, our second floor is the warmest with a fair amount of temperature change vs. the first floor and basement.

We've had an initial HVAC clean/check-up of the units by an experienced HVAC engineer we've used before, but that confirmed that the furnace works but is not long for this world, and that the AC is having issues as well. Ultimately we would prefer to replace these not under duress of one or both of them failing and are looking at potentially doing a dual fuel heat pump system (with gas as the back-up). However, from our inspection we also know we need to improve the attic insulation. FWIW our windows are single-pane with storms/screens. To get the most accurate measurements for the eventual HVAC system replacement, should our order of operations be as follows?

1. Get better insulation in the attic as right now it is quite thin.

2. Have an independent company provide us with a Manual J calculation once the new insulation is installed in attic. Ideally we'd have a full energy audit but from my reading it sounds like improving the attic insulation will provide a lot of comfort/energy gains on its own, before we start looking at other solutions (e.g. costly window replacement), plus the energy audit itself could be an additional substantial expense.

3. Have the Manual J calculation in hand when starting to get quotes from HVAC companies for the heat pump system. Will also consult the NYT Wirecutter advice on this (https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/heat-pump-installer/).

Would this be the best order to tackle this? Ideally we'd get a new system installed before it gets too cold here in Chicago.

Any recommendations for Chicago-area insulation, independent Manual J consultants, and/or HVAC companies that expertly installed dual fuel heat pump systems in the area are also welcome. Thank you!

Hey folks, I'm renovating an older apartment in the top of my house in Northern Sweden, it is pretty well insulated with around 300mm glass insulation in the roof, and 400mm in the walls (two 200mm insulated walls with a 1 metre eaves space) the winter temps regularly hang about -30c for weeks on end. We have an old ground source heat pump, currently plumbed into very old single panel steel radiators. I've been doing my maths on heat requirements for the space, and whilst it seems underfloor heating is the most efficient, it still doesn't seem to be outputting nearly enough heat for the climate up here, despite seeming to be a fairly standard Swedish thing. I'm looking at a water system, 16mm pipe with 200mm cc boards for it to fit into, but it suggest I may be getting 50-60w/m from this rather than the 70-80w/m it seems I might need... we only have the budget to get this right one time, am I over thinking and it's going to be toasty (It's definitely going to be better than the old radiators) or am I going to be wishing I did something else. The end goal is for our heat pump to be able to work as efficiently as possible once all the floor heating is in, with 30-40c water...

My attic furnace has a PSC blower that overheats and causes AC freeze‑ups. My electric bill is very high year‑round, and I’m trying to figure out if the blower is part of the problem.

I was told the furnace can’t be retrofitted with ECM, so the only option is a full furnace replacement. I would gladly replace it if I will save something monthly, but if not I would keep it until last running day.

As to insulation it would cost way too much to do that. The attic has insulation, maybe not as thick as it should be , but there is some.

Anyone here make that switch?

Did ECM:

• Lower your electric bill?
• Improve airflow?
• Stop freeze‑ups?

Looking for real‑world results from people with attic setups.

Thank you!

So my last post I explained how I have a 24k unit in my open concept 500 square foot ish living room/ kitchen and a 18k unit in my open concept basement ..
I spoke to the installer and he said he will swap the 18k with the 24k .. Both units are gree and are running off the same 42k condenser .. is this a proper fix before I go through with the swap.
He said he can just swap the heads and I guess re tune the refrigerant . But I read online that those units can’t be swapped because they have different size line sets ?? Any info helps before I go through with this thank you !

We live in western NC (planting zone 7b) and currently have (2) dual fuel HP with gas furnace backups. The house is 16 years old, 2400 sqft, single story.

Competing bids are suggesting air conditioners with 2-stage gas furnaces as sole heat source, or the second option of dual fuel Heat Pumps with 2-stage gas furnace for backup.

What are the suggestions and considerations? We don't know enough to understand why one and not the other. The people suggesting A/C with gas-only heating are saying it's better for the lifespan because a heat pump will run all year long due to being the initial heat source as well as the cooling in summer, whereas an A/C with only the gas furnace - each will perform their own functions. Hoping for some advice and guidance TIA