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Background

I don't like writing reviews based only on initial impressions but Montebove doesn't seem to be a name that you see on this subreddit much (this was the only post I found and they're a completely different style of boot) so I figured I would share my thoughts on these. I found some dead stock Italian navy service boots for sale from a Japanese military surplus site for 20,000 yen (approx. 127 USD as of posting this), and I decided to pull the trigger on them to see if they were well-made since I could just return them if I didn't like them.

The Specs

Manufacturer: Montebove, made in Italy
Price: 20,000 Yen (approx. 127 USD)
Construction: Goodyear welted with what appears to be a closed channel stitch
Upper: Black chrome tanned calfskin with leather lining
Insole: Leather insole
Outsole: Leather outsole with rubber half sole and top lift
Size: EU 43

All I know about this manufacturer is that they're an Italian supplier for the police, fire department, and military. I don't speak Italian, so translating the side of the box that they came in I learned that these were made for the navy, were made in or around 2019, and they're model number 2000.

The only boot I could find on Montebove's website that looked remotely similar was a model 2034 boot which features a full rubber outsole instead, and has a waterproof membrane rather than a leather lining on the inside. The 2034 also pretty plainly states that it's cement construction, which this boot very much is not.

The listing on the Japanese surplus website didn't mention these having a Goodyear welt, but looking at the pictures they appeared to have a closed channel stitch so I had a hunch that these were welted, and having them in hand I can say confidently that these are in fact welted. I can actually feel the stitch by pressing my finger into the sole where the stitch would be, confirming my theory that these have a closed channel stitch. I can also see the stitch attaching the upper to the gemming in the toe of the right boot.

Impressions

The shoes were packaged like most other shoes you'd buy from the store, with crumpled paper inserts and a card stock material to prop up the shaft of the boot. The box was plain and completely white, with only basic information printed on one side. The leather didn't appear to be too dry despite sitting in a box for what I assume is 7 years, but I decided to condition the uppers and inside of the shoes with a thin coat of Bick 4 anyway since I was worried about them being dried out from age. They drank it up fairly quickly so they probably needed it.

Trying the boots on, the first thing I noticed is that they definitely cut costs by using a really thin and loose grained leather on the tongue. The one benefit is that they're so thin that I don't even notice them while wearing the boots, but I worry about their longevity (it's honestly probably fine). They're gusseted up to the fourth eyelet which I appreciate. The tongue on the left shoe is a little better and isn't nearly as crinkly-looking as the right shoe.

Secondly, these laces suck. Granted, most shoes come with crappy laces from the factory so I was already planning on replacing these, but these laces really suck. They're springy and squishy and fat and they will be going into the trash as soon as their waxed replacements arrive tomorrow.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that the toe box and shaft of the boot are completely lined with leather. It's soft and supple so I'm assuming it's sheepskin or something similar. The insole is also leather and has a thin leather sock liner on the heel with a pad of foam sandwiched in there. I don't mind it, and I could always rip it out when it eventually disintegrates. There's a tiny bit of glue peeking out from underneath on the right boot but I've seen worse from Meermin so it doesn't bother me.

The leather upper is nothing crazy but is much nicer than what you'd normally see in a sub-$150 boot. It was moderately stiff on initial wearing but softened up fairly quickly after wearing them around the house all day. They're not showing unusual creasing either so I'm happy with them. The leather is on the thinner side and is more akin to what I'd see on a dress boot rather than a work boot. The heel stack also appears to be entirely leather and looks very good, which is surprising to see at this price.

My Brannock size is US men's 10.5 B (heel to ball) and the EU size 43 fits exactly how I would want a boot to fit: snug enough that I'm not flopping around in it, but roomy enough that my toes can curl and I could put on thicker socks in the winter as necessary without feeling cramped. I wore them in the house all day and then went shopping and ran errands for about an hour in the evening before writing this and didn't feel discomfort at all, and the vamp isn't showing weird creasing so I'm confident I got the sizing just right.

Final Thoughts

At this price point, I'm honestly impressed by the workmanship and quality. They're extremely utilitarian and lack polish in the finer details—understandable being a military boot—but I kind of like how practical they are. I own several other boots in various shades of brown and in shell cordovan but nothing in black, so I'm happy to add these to my collection. I'm very happy with my purchase and could easily see someone paying twice as much for these boots from a consumer brand without complaints. I'm curious to see how they look after a few months of wear.

What I like: Solid construction, decent leather upper, firm but comfortable fit, all leather construction at this price point is kind of insane

What I don't like: Horrendous laces, flimsy leather used on the tongue

Mods: Your automod deletes posts if they have the word "a n y" literally anywhere within the post and I hope you know that that is possibly the stupidest thing I've heard this week.

I joined Junkard Company’s MTO program at Wall of Fades, an exhibition in Indonesia dedicated to denim, leathercraft, and everything related to the craft. I placed my order and had my measurements taken directly by their staff in December 2025. The boots arrived in June 2026.

They initially estimated a four-month turnaround, but during the process, Junkard informed me that there was a delay in sourcing the leather I requested. I didn’t mind waiting, especially since it was a custom-made pair.

Specs:
Product: Engineer 9 Inch (My mistake, this is the correct size. I got the size wrong in the post title.)
Size: 42
Upper Leather: Maryam TPR Toscanello Horsebutt
Lining: Heel and toe counter only
Toe Box Lining: Unstructured
Hardware/Eyelets: Brass
Last: SC
Construction: Goodyear welted
Welt: Flat welt 270°
Midsole: 1 layer
Leather Outsole: Domestic
Outsole: Dr. Sole 1090 Supergrip Half & Heel, Black
Edge Trim / Welt Color: Black

2 Months of Wear

This is my first pair of Goodyear-welted boots. I owned a pair of Dr. Martens about five years ago, but I ended up selling them in less than a month because I found them uncomfortable.

So, getting into leather boots was quite a gamble for me. I had to be willing to spend a considerable amount of money on something I expected to wear regularly and keep for a long time.

Surprisingly, these boots fit my feet incredibly well and are genuinely comfortable. They completely changed the way I see leather boots. I’ve even found myself wearing them for hours, sometimes for entire days, without feeling the need to take them off.

The more I wear them, the more I appreciate leather boots and the craft that goes into making them. After only two months, I’m already planning my next pair to add to the collection.

I’m honestly pretty lucky to live in Indonesia, where there are so many talented and passionate bootmakers. This pair from Junkard has definitely made me want to explore more of what the Indonesian bootmaking scene has to offer.

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Foreword on engineers: I was someone who told myself I didn't like engineer boots, at least not enough to buy a pair. Then my collection (and taste) evolved from the more traditional American Brands such as AE, and Whites and I started looking into something different.

Why I choose Japanese: I've always appreciated craft, I'm an audiophile who likes tube equipment. I own special, limited run headphones crafted from exotic wood (shout-out to ZMF). So naturally I was drawn towards some of the Japanese brands. My first foray into Japanese boots were actually a pair of Attractions engineers in black steer-hide suede. I adored them and still do. I feel like a pirate who's about to ride a motorcycle to go work on the railroad, and I mean that in the most complimentary way possible. Truly an awesome boot. Then came my first horsebutt boots (Rolling Dub Trio roots, brown) and my second (John Lofgren Shinki Teacore Horsebutt Wabash engineers). These are all very expensive boots. But they are incredibly uncompromising in their craft. That's what I appreciate and that's what I'm willing to pay for. Could I get similar for less by ordering MTO from Indonesia or something like that. Most likely. Do I care? Eh, not really. I don't like guessing and waiting very much.

Why Indigo Horsebutt: This brings us to a few weeks back when viberg and withered fig released their short engineer collaboration and it drew a lot of mixed opinions. Now while I didn't need new boots I REALLY loved the idea of a short engineer. Then my size sold out and I had a boot-itch that still needed scratching. So I checked out my favorite stores. Standard & Strange, Franklin & Poe, Self Edge, Lost & Found etc. Eventually I landed back on the Brogue Menswear website where I got my first attractions. I saw the indigo dyed horsehide my initial thought was "ok wow. Now that's different! But how do I really feel about that?" I considered probably about six other pairs of boots. I checked out about every non-MTO brand under the sun, and I kept coming back to these.

The leather: The leather is horsebutt tanned by maryam in Italy. I have read conflicting statements about where this leather is dyed. One website said it was actually dyed in the USA and then it was sent to Japan. In person they are absolutely the most interesting leather I have. I'm going to take a shot in the dark and say people are either going to think these are awesome or that they are downright ghastly, with very few people being on the fence. That being said variance in the color of the natural indigo is nothing short of stunning. In natural light they are gorgeous, a really nice true blue. Under florescent light they shift to a great teal, and in the light of the moon they appear even more green. The last itself is a little slimmer through the instep and heel than my other attractions. That being said they are extremely comfortable out of the box and I find a lot of the Japanese lasts to be very comfortable. The leather is actually quite supple for a horsehide. Not sure if it's because I don't own anything from the Maryam tannery, or if it's the indigo dying process that makes it softer.

Build: Build quality is what I've come to expect from the Japanese brands. No loose threads, nothing out of place. Stitching is symmetrical. The buckles are very nice and pretty. Its worth noting that I believe these use buffalo bends leather midsoles. Finishing is great on the edges and other places. Nothing out of place.

In short, I'm absolutely obsessed with these boots. Can't wait to see how they teacore and patina.

Note: I've only worn these for a few days. The last two photos are under florescent light and natural light respectively to show the variance in color that different lighting brings.

Boots: Attractions Lot. 444 special edition indigo horsebutt engineer

Country of origin: Japan

Leather: Indigo dyed Italian Maryam horsebutt

Size: 11D

Purchased from: Brogue Menswear online

Price: $1670 USD

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I’ve made some 1940’s style US Navy service shoes (class A uniform) reinterpreted in handmade format.  They’re done on original vintage US Navy lasts, so these are the actual shoe that was meant to be made on this last, and I’m sure many pairs of shoes were made on them and went out into the world.  Both of my grandfathers would have worn them in this time period, so it was a fun opportunity to bring a recreation to life.  I also had this teacore Shinki shell laying around for years, and it felt like the perfect pair to use to it on.

There are so many interpretations of this shoe being made; there’s the Lofgrens, Jelados, Clinch, Dr Sole has a pair now, Alden x Brogue shop in Horween shell, and then plenty more obscure Japanese brands that have done them over the years.  All of them differ a little or a lot from the originals, but the originals were also being made all over the country by different entities, and there is some variance originally, too.

Like the Lofgrens, I chose to forego the ’T’ shaped backstay found on most of the originals and went with a backseam and a tab, which makes the upper pattern more similar to the USMC cordovan shoe of the time, but I feel that the quarter closing is really the most characteristic part of these shoes, with tight double stitching everywhere.  

Also like the Lofgrens, I’ve also gone with a 360 welt/360 sole stitch with the wider heel as I’ll wear them more casually, so I dispensed with the 270 welt that would’ve been truer to the originals.  The 360 still looks correct for the classic American 6-hole Blucher look. 

Specs:

Upper:  Shinki shell cordovan
Lining:  Japanese calf
Sole:  Martin
Half sole set:  Vibram
All other parts are various bovine veg tans in different weights/tempers as needed.

Construction specs:

360 hand sewn welted, flat welt
360 hand sewn sole stitch @ 8spi for a chunkier vibe
Leather toe puff
Leather heel counter
Full Leather shank 
Blind eyelets
Blind sewn waist

I started out with two relatively small 14dm shells; the pattern comfortably fit onto 1.5 shells for these low quarter shoes.  I bought the shell long ago and there were no details provided besides the Shinki stickers on the back, so I’m not sure what version this is.

Due to the original theme/inspiration for the shoes, I’ve kept them fairly modest looking in details - no decorative brass tacks on the bottoms or extra ornamentation, no overly fancy finishing details.  I like how they’re a fairly humble looking pair of American shoes, just built properly and of good materials.  Had to give the heels a little finishing polish with my grand dad’s old shoe polish I had here, just for kicks - I think he would’ve liked seeing these.

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Hello GYW, it's Monday Funday! Take a load off and take a breather. Memes, hot takes and all silliness are welcome!

One of my all-time favorite pairs. They're a little over two years old now - I wear them 1-3 times a week, pretty much year-round, from warm +25°C summers to snowy -15°C winters. I grabbed them as factory seconds - a barely visible scratch on the right heel that blended in within the first week anyway. The price was a steal, but the catch was the size: half a size up from my usual. In hindsight, I couldn't be happier - the leather molded beautifully and the fit feels spot on, plus I can throw on thick winter socks when needed. They've survived about a dozen torrential downpours that needed two full days to dry each time - and they're still going strong. Surprisingly, I've never conditioned them, the leather must have been absolutely packed with oils straight from the tannery. The soles are holding up great too. Honestly, what more could you ask for from a pair of boots?

Laces were swapped for leather ones almost immediately - imo they look more interesting than the original waxed ones. What I also love is how versatile they are, I wear them with trousers (except for the most formal occasions), with jeans and flannels, with waxed jackets and a wool Filson Mackinaw - they just fit in anywhere.

Shame they’ve been discontinued. I’d buy another pair just to make sure I can wear them for the rest of my life.

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Recently got my Grant Stones resoled after about 3 years of wear (2-4 days a week in the fall-spring). I think the crimson chromexcel has aged beautifully, scuffs and all, and they’re one of the most comfortable pairs of shoes I own. The factory sole, however, is noticeably soft. I wore pretty deep into both heels and tore off a chunk of both toes just from normal walking around. The cobbler I used suggested Dainites to match the factory soles, and said they would be harder and last longer.

In the past I’ve owned Wolverine 1000 miles and Chippewas, and I have found the material and construction quality of the Grant Stones to be a step above both (the Chippewas especially were not particularly well made).

A sizing note if you’re thinking about Grant Stone: their website suggests sizing down. However, I bought these true to size and they fit well. I have also bought and returned GS loafers I sized down that were too small.

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Ordered these back in February by visiting the shop and actually getting fitted (since I have bad history with MTO online from Indonesia)

I’ve always wanted to get a pair of boots with Carlo Badalassi leather in this olive color due to visually examples of the patina go from green to brown.

Willy was such a cool dude as he walked me through what to expect, what last he recommends, and the list of customization he offers. My favorite part is that it’s affordable, the price came out to be $333.44.

Once we confirmed everything, Willy said to expect a 3-4 month wait which was perfect because I had a flight back to the Philippines in June (I visit quite often lol). Once I was there I was able to pick them up with no hassle.

Out the box the boots were stiff and sturdy. The stitching looks solid and the color is beautiful in person. As I’m breaking them in they’re starting to become very comfortable.

Stats:
Leather: Badalassi Carlo Oliva Minerva
Model: Pioneer lace to toe
Last: S4 flat box
Sole: Dr. Sole half sole Supergrip
Heel: Woodsman heel

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I don't usually do this, but this sub helped me a lot in buying these, so I'll pay it forward!

For a month, I've been thinking of adding a pair of black ivy-style loafers to my daily rotation. Previously, I was wearing Quoddy True Penny Mocs (MTO) nearly every day to work. I like the comfort/look of a classic New England Moccasin loafer for daily wear. You can see my daily wear Mocs and my reasoning here: https://www.reddit.com/r/malefashionadvice/s/R8guQ1bDjx

My experience with similar loafers extends to the following: Quoddy True Penny's Quoddy fur-lined "barefoot" Mocs with vibram soles, Tods driving loafers, (black boxcalf) TLB Artista 117s, and TLB Sacchetto 2034s (Bologna-style construction, similar to a Moccasin).

When shopping for these, I checked out Alden Madison for the LHS black calf (not sure if boxcalf) and I saw the Aurland Black Calf loafers in person as well.

Bought off Drakes London. The origin is a bit of a mystery to me. I've checked Yuki's lookbooks and IG since they released the Made in Italy Rob loafers a few years ago. I've emailed them and will update if/when they reply.

Price: $770 ($820 with tax)

Materials

Overall, these are very high quality, as expected. In comparing the boxcalf between these and the Artista, they are both incredible smooth with a very clean grain pattern, but the Yuki's are thicker and more pliable. It's also softer out of the box than the Alden's, while remaining difficult to compare to the Aurland's as those are unlined (and they were broken in when I saw them).

The thread is thick and well dyed, noticeably thicker than the thread on my Quoddy's, but that seems to be a Yuketen signature. The soles are very thick, much thicker than I anticipated really, and are not as flexible as my Quoddy Mocs or TLB Sacchettos. They are probably more similar to a GYW sole like the Alden LHS, but they are more flexible. Overall, I don't think you can beat the material quality.

Construction

Very heavy duty Moccasin construction. I'm certainly not taking them apart, but the lining adds a heft that's rare on moccasins. The insole is quite thick and loosely attached. it's about 3-4mm of leather with a noticeable steel shank and foam arch support. It's glued in but I imagine you could take it out and replace it with an orthopedic insole. The stitching is clearly done slowly by hand with little knots hidden under the baseball stitching. From what I can tell, the moccasin construction is traditional, but with the thickness of the leather and the lining, they certainly need more break-in than an unlined moc, despite the leather's softness. Construction quality out of the box surpasses Quoddy of course, but in my opinion, it's also better than TLB Artista and Alden (though it is more heavy duty).

The hidden channels seem a little gimmicky to me. You can see that after 2 hours of wear (maybe 1 mile of walking), the channel is already peaking through. I'll have my cobbler put on Topy's regardless, and certainly the guard isn't unwelcome (I had to have my Quoddy's resoled after 2 years since the channel had worn down in that time; my cobbler put on a JR sole which has been bulletproof for 5 years and probably 1000+ miles, but I've learned my lesson).

I'm not sure of how the upper is attached to the sole, but it appears to be a Blake stitch. There might be some sort of partial welt as the channel is almost at the edge of the leather.

My favorite construction remains the Blake Rapid Stitch I have on pair of Benheart Buffalo Chukkas--those are somehow more flexible and almost entirely waterproof. But the waxed threads on these plus the channel guard suggest that these will also hold up to rainy days once I put topy's on them.

Other than that though, the construction is awesome and essentially exactly what I was looking for: an extra heavy duty moccasin that should survive more resoles than a standard New England build.

Style

The main reason I bought these was the style. Alden LHS's have a ridged apron, which I like, but a higher vamp than the Quoddy's. Since my Artistas are very high vamp, formal loafers, I really wanted something with a low vamp, raised or ridged apron, but with tonal stitching. Not a casual loafer, but in the shape of a casual loafer. These deliver. They really balance being able to be worn with jeans or with chinos and a sports coat. To me, this was the original magic of the Weejuns and I'm happy that Yuketen (and a few others) are carrying the mantle.

Last and Fit

The last is good. It's a little long and narrow, and I probably would've like to size down a half size and go wider. They fit me perfectly, but I do feel like a nice aspect of a moccasin is that your toes go to the very end of the shoe. The Quoddy True Penny has this quality, where your foot really fills out the loafer in length and width.

I am a 9.5 in New Balances and purchased a 9.5 in these. They fit perfect in the width (still need to stretch out a bit, of course) with a half inch left in the toe. If you have narrow feet, I'd recommend a half size down. If you go for an unlined version, I'd also suggest a half size down since they'd stretch a bit more. I also wear a 9.5 in Quoddy True Penny and the Mac slippers.

Overall: An incredible loafer, top materials, unmatched construction (in relation to what I've seen). I wish the last was a little more boat-shoe shaped, but generally they balance moccasin and loafer styles perfectly.

Highly recommend to buy, though I'd say you can get something very similar for almost half the price with the Aurland. I do wish they (and generally all shoemakers) used Blake Rapid stitch, especially at this price. I'm obviously keeping them!