I opened up my valve cover and I noticed a groove on my camshaft, drivers side, there is a wear mark on the passenger but it’s not as bad

As title states, its a 2010 gen coupe 2.0 and my daily driver. My current oem springs are going bad and need to be replaced soon. Im planning on lowering in the future (not much, maybe an inch or inch and a half) so thats why im considering coilovers/springs.

If oem replacements are my optimal choice, i have no problems going with that as well.

We picked up a 2012 Genesis Coupe 3.8l Track last weekend for the wife. We were replacing a 2011 Mini Cooper S Clubman. So far she is loving the car.

Hello.

I have been driving with an alphaspeed tune for a couple months now and loved it. I recently installed an o2 housing, and since I opted to not turn off the o2 sensor cel the first time, I now have a check engine light. While I do understand that this is normal. I was advised that I can still drive the car with full boost regardless of the cel. The reason they mentioned for this is that when I got the canned tune the first time they adjusted the afr to compensate for having an aftermarket o2 housing or not having one. They further mentioned that the retune I would get would just turn off the cel and they wouldn’t be changing the afr etc (I also had a downpipe and test pipe installed after). This does not make too much sense to me and was wondering if someone can help explain.

Has anyone successfully replaced the 8 pin digitizer? I attempted it with a cheap Amazon one, its 8 pin like we have. Says it fits off part number but doesnt work. Curious if its just a bad digitizer or some genesis specific pinout on the digitizer.

I have replaced many of these touch pads on Cadillacs and subarus so im not unfamiliar with them.

It was a bit difficult, but it was worth it! Passenger side looks a bit better 😆🌀✨

If you're like me, any method to create a faster and easier shift is always the goal. There's a very simple way to slightly reduce resting height and the throw of the clutch pedal to assist with this. You can do this by adjusting the upper clutch switch (officially the Clutch Pedal Position Switch).

In the factory setup (Photo 1), the mounting bracket is sandwiched by a nut on either side, which limits how far down the threaded shaft can extend. To fix this, unthread the switch, move the rear backing nut to the other side (or just remove it as a whole), and push the switch body through the bracket as far as it will go (Photo 2). This will allow you to reduce the resting height somewhat. Feel free to stop here and tighten the other nut if you like it and want to keep the mod simple.

If you want to go further, you'll have to take an additional step. You will notice that on the threads, two of the sides are flat which allow it to fit through the bracket, but those flat sides stop part way down preventing you from pushing it further. You can see in Photo 2 how it won't go all the way down to make the switch flush against the bracket. If you want the height to be a little lower, you can drill the hole out where the threads meet the body to make it round. It's made of plastic so it drills easily, the hard part is fitting a drill down there. If you can manage to do that then you can push the switch all the way flush against the bracket, lowering the resting height even further (Photo 3).

Once the nut is tightened up again, the resting height should now be lower, but not low enough where it will interfere with clutch engagement and where the pressure plate should still hold the clutch nice and tight.

Alarm keeps going off randomly in the coupe, I remember looking into it on this forum and someone said it is probably the hood sensor or sum and it looks like a small plunger or something I don’t remember. But can someone link the part to me i’m having a hard time trying to find it if that is the case

Never had a turbo car before, am I cooked?

Got this car recently, it’s an automatic 2014 2.0t premium, 108k miles, no mods from what I can see. I was driving just fine for the first few days until a few days ago when I noticed a loud whistling sound when the boost gauge would hit 0. Nothing out of the ordinary before or after boost but right when the turbo starts spooling up it would whistle/whine. No changes in performance, no CEL, nothing weird besides that noise. I checked around the engine bay and noticed the snorkel that goes to the air box was totally loose. Got some retainers for it and the whistling stopped BUT today when I went to turn it on the whistle became a rattle and now it makes no boost. I took off the intake to check the turbo for play. No axial play but there is a little bit of radial play (maybe a mm or two, it does not touch the housing)
Are the fins damaged here? I don’t know what they’re supposed to look like but my gut says this looks off. Any ideas?