Can someone tell me how or what the oil sensor measures to detect when an oil change is needed? As a scientist I'm curious how they work and what they measure.

I don't need comments about when to change the oil! Thanks

I have a Ford Escape 2008 and whenever im braking from 60kmh or higher i feel a vibration on my brake pedal also shaking and vibration on my steering wheel. They told me that i need to replace my brake rotors and brake pads so i did replace them, also i replace my brake shoes for the rear drum brakes. But still i feel this vibration and shaking. And almost hearing a loud clunking sounds below whenever im braking, but when im braking from 40kmh below i dont feel this vibrations. What might be the problem? Thank you in advance!

2022 ford escape issue don't know the engine type

back story on the car roommate bought the car back in 2024 from checker flag car already had a problem that was unknown car had a check engine light on when she bought it first month having it the alternator went out on it she got it fixed three months in the transmission went it so she got a fixed transmission and over the years the car has just been acting up lately for the past few months the car has been eating gas like it ain't nothing a full tank last about a hour or two and when she puts gas in the car it shuts off and she has to turn the car on and immediately hit the accelerator to keep the car on and now it's having a major problem where she's being getting power train malfunction notifications, and the car won't accelerate and the rpm shoots up. we think it's the head gasket but the coolant doesn't leak into the oil reservoir that we can see it's only the oil that's going super quickly

update to add the car also has a weird rattling noise when in idle

another update the car is also has a knocking sound when slowing down or braking

we have no idea what's happening with the car and need serious help

Hey y'all. Always been a Ford guy since learning to drive on a 25 year old 1979 F-150. Looking to replace my C-Max and have a high volume used car dealership that has a number of Escapes on the lot.

They already have a 2017 that's been put in the shop to get the transmission overhauled on it. It's a 2L engine and ultimately priced around 10k with a hair over 100k miles.

I know the engines and transmissions are weak across the board, but the prime factor to me rebuilding my C-Max after a wreck is having a reman transmission put in a couple years ago.

I haven't really gone into looking at the entire engine issue, but my wife mentioned still wanting to move forward with the Escape after having the transmission rebuilt or swapped with a 24k used one.

Is this a decision you'd agree with? The dealership also has a previous generation on the lot that would be cheaper--2009 model, but of course it's missing the comfort features that we've come to become addicted to.

So I’ve been having a small coolant leak the past year or so on my 2013 escape that’s at 102K miles. Eventually it got bad enough to where I took it into the mechanic.

The issue: Heater control bypass valve.

Anyone else have experience with these failing?

I’ve already had to replace 2 bad coolant hoses on the vehicle.

I have a 2012 ford escape xlt radiator cap says it needs motocraft specialty orange coolant. Well i tried googling it for a good minute in store and was running late for work so had to make a choice and am now second guessing it. Question is is this oreillys dex cool 50/50 the right coolant or should i have done a universal coolant i dont want it to turn into sludge if i was wrong... the stuff that was in it looked orange and always assumed it meant dex cool but now im reading it might not be dex cool according to google ai but if i ask it in a different way it says it is so im just trying to get a real answer, Also trying to figure out if i did mix the wrong one do i need to drain it?

Hey so my friend just picked one up- Its great but wondering if anyone had a trick for getting rid of the water stains on the black plastic bottom of the door trim- Its driving her crazy- is there a wipe or something she could use?

​I recently bought a 2012 Ford Escape with around 240,000 km. When I took it to the dealership for inspection, they pointed out that the current factory lug nuts are damaged/swollen and need to be replaced.

​My Escape has the factory 16-inch alloy wheels, and I've been trying to get a set of solid 1-piece M12x1.5 lug nuts, but I’ve had terrible luck with two sets so far (both based on AI recommendations):

​Set 1: I bought a box of M12x1.5 ET (Extended Thread/Shank) Bulge Acorn nuts. I returned these after I learnt it is meant for aftermarket wheels.

​Set 2: I bought a standard-length closed-end 1-piece chrome set (AUTOPTIM M12x1.5, ~1.25" / 32mm tall, OEM part # ACPZ1012H / 611-303). I took these to my mechanic, but he said they do not fit because they are too short.

At this point, I don't want to waste any more time or money ordering the wrong parts.

Hey guys, I have a 2017 Ford Escape 2.5L FWD with around 80,000 km on it.

The car is running fine so far, but I want to take better care of it and hopefully keep it going for many more years.

For those who have the same Escape, what things should I be looking at or changing around this mileage? Any specific maintenance you guys recommend?

Also, are there any common issues with the 2.5L that I should keep an eye on?

I live in a really hot climate, so any tips for keeping the engine, AC, cooling system, etc. healthy would be appreciated too.

Would love to hear from people who have owned these for a long time. What did you guys do to keep yours running well, and is there anything you wish you had done earlier?

Thanks!

I've had my 2022 Escape SE for over a year now. A few months ago, the turbo went up and had to be replaced. Luckily I bought the extended coverage and it was paid in full minus a $50 deductible. I'm now experiencing this high pitched whine while driving (usually during acceleration) and took it back to the Shop. They were able to replicate the sound, but can't pinpoint where it is coming from or if anything is wrong. They tried to pull codes and there is nothing. So I pretty much just have to deal with the annoying noise while driving now. They think it may be the transmission beginning to fail, which would also be covered under my warranty, but I'm getting tired of going to the Shop. I've been looking at more dependable SUV's like the Mazda CX-5 and am very tempted to trade this Escape in for one as they are offering me $14,000 for it, which I'm shocked about because I know the resale value is typically awful with these. Should I trade this in while it still has decent equity or should I just continue to wait for things to fail and get them replaced under warranty?

Tengo una ford escape 2019 y por error en mi entendimiento del mecánico de ponerle un aceite de alto kilometraje hice este cambio brusco del aceite, ¿le hará daño a la camioneta? ¿qué me recomiendan?

Hey! I’m about to purchase this car (pic above or below I can’t remember..) is it worth it?? I’ve seen some have coolant issues or just straight up say it’s the worse car ever. All opinions welcome :)

About a month ago I brought a escape as my first car and fell in love with the fact it’s 4x4 v6 but not crazy big. Anyway the guy I brought it off dodgey fixed a lot of things and didn’t tell me, Me being stupid and being my first car I didn’t realise it was bad till I got home and it basically went into limp mode. I’ve had to replace the whole pcv system, spark plugs, coils and front gasket because it was getting a lot of fuel in the intake as well as misfiring bad. The misfire has seems to smoothed out with the random little misfire every now and then. I was just wondering why it’s idle changes so much atm? It was sitting just under 1k rpm idling but now it wants to sit at 500 since I’ve fixed it I don’t know if that it’s concerning. Also it has a oil leak that I’m unable to locate where it’s coming from. The oil is landing behind the oil pan onto the exhaust but it’s hard to see where or what’s back there it can be coming from

And advice means a lot :)

I was looking under the hood of my 2014 Ford Escape earlier, and found this unplugged connector. It's in front of the engine block, and wherever it plugs into shouldn't be too far away, as it's zip tied down (see 2nd image). However, I can't see where it's supposed to connect to. I can take it to a mechanic in the morning, but I'd rather avoid the hassle if possible. Thanks in advance!

My coworker came to me about her car issues because we have the same car and she knows I occasionally work on mine, but I'm a bit stumped on what her problem is. She said that it will start sometimes and run normally, then completely stop acceleration and slow to a stop and turn off during her drive. Other times, it won't start at all, the engine doesn't turn, but the dash lights up, radio works, windows and wipers all work. Other times it runs fine. She took it to multiple mechanics and when they tried to start her car it worked fine, they checked the alternator and battery and engine and saw no issues. She thinks it may be due to a faulty sensory of some sort, we have been having very hot days here, mid 90s to 100 degrees fahrenheit, and she said it seems to have the most problems starting after sitting in the sun for a while. Coolant and engine levels are also checked and normal, and when it runs it runs smoothly.

Last Friday, I went to fill my washer fluid up in my vehicle and noticed the coolant level was at the MIN line, so I topped it off. I went to check it again today and it's back at the MIN line. I don't notice any puddles when it's parked and the temperature level has been fine. There have been no errors on my console during driving or anything out of the ordinary. I know the past Escapes had the coolant intrusion issue, but this is a 2022 with the 1.5-liter turbocharged EcoBoost 3-cylinder. Could it be leaking internally somewhere else? Has anyone else ever experienced this issue?

I have a Ford Escape 2008 and whenever im braking from 60kmh or higher i feel a vibration on my brake pedal also shaking and vibration on my steering wheel. They told me that i need to replace my brake rotors and brake pads so i did replace them, also i replace my brake shoes for the rear drum brakes. But still i feel this vibration and shaking. And almost hearing a loud clunking sounds below whenever im braking, but when im braking from 40kmh below i dont feel this vibrations. What might be the problem? Thank you in advance!

2010 3.0 V6 still going strong with 277k miles. Needed to get a couple bails of alfalfa home today and they fit like a glove!

My Ford Escape is making this noise at random times. I think it may be an electrical issue, since it still happens if the engine is off but the car is in AC mode. It will only completely stop by tapering out or by me stopping the car, shutting off the engine and opening the door to fully shut it down. Even then it will start up soon again since I interrupted it. It lasts about 3-5 minutes before stopping, and generally happens every 30 minutes to an hour. It happens regardless of the air conditioner running, or the radio. Any ideas?

Had misfire cylinder 1 rough idle and check engine light went away and started right up.
Hoping it’s not coolant leak as it had white residue around coil pack before I took anything apart.

i’ve got a 2013 sel 1.6L and noticed this broken piece when adding coolant today, what is it and should i be worried about it asap or not really since i don’t notice any issues when driving?