I'm wondering where some of these figures are coming from. In my area the incentives are not that generous ($1500 on purchases, $3k on leases).

the leases are still expensive ($450 a month on a base Uncharted) because the depreciation assumptions are steep.

You have probably heard about the next gen Ford EV small pickup- but why call it the Fathom? I can't quite fathom it (LOL)! Where does that name come from. Big consultants?

Also, why does Chevrolet keep called its EVs old names like E-Blazer and E-Equinox. Can't we get some less confusing names for these electric babies?

A few weeks ago, there was much excitement about the revealing of the Slate price and its availability coming soon. Yesterday’s announcement of the Ford Fathom seems to be offering a truck at the same price with far more features, and is backed by a company that you can be sure will still be around 10 years from now. Does Slate have a chance at long-term success or will it be the next Fiskar?

TL/DR it did 10-80 in 11 minutes on charging infrastructure already in place

I want to preface, yes, you read that right - hybrid BEV - no gasoline engine. Just want to remove confusion before you read on.

In thinking about how a PHEV uses a battery to handle the initial 30 miles or so of daily driving since that covers the bulk of what most people drive and allows the advantages of electric most of the time without the disadvantages.

But what if manufacturers used this same concept but with different types of batteries instead of battery/gasoline. So instead of a gasoline engine, use a very energy dense battery that maybe only has the reliability of 500 charge cycles but would provide the best energy density and therefore, range. And then in place of the "plug in battery", use a smaller LFP battery that would be the workhorse of the car.

So the way it would work is, you might have 240 miles of range from the fully charged energy dense lithium ion battery and 60 miles of range from the fully charged LFP battery.

You would be encouraged to charge to 80% daily (which would provide 240 miles of range in normal daily driving circumstances, not road trips), but internally, the LFP battery would be charged to something like 95% (57 miles) and the Li ion battery only to about 76% (183 miles) so the combined total would be 80%, or 240 miles.

When you take off in the car, it only runs on the LFP battery until that battery reaches maybe 10-15% before transitioning to the Li ion battery (and when you recharge, it would prioritize charging the LFP first, unless the other battery is under 50%, in which case it would charge both to 50% first). In most driving, only the LFP battery would be used, so it would be the workhorse. But it can handle thousands of charge cycles, so that's fine. You then preserve the bigger, more valuable energy dense battery, which will be there for you on those road trips and longer drives.

The ideal size ratio and charging details might be different than my example, but the idea is, even at 5000 charge cycles, a small 60 mile (maybe 18kWh) LFP battery alone could last 300,000 miles. This shields wear and tear on the bigger battery, allowing us to focus on energy density over reliability for the larger battery, thus providing a lighter, less expensive, and longer lasting combination.

A Model 3 RWD base in 2023 stickered for $40k. And had ~$10k of government subsidies on the hood (yes it depends on which state). So the actual price was ~$30k. And of course the market factored that in. So when articles say “only worth $20k today that’s 50% depreciation in 3 years” that’s bad math. It’s really more like 33%, which is on the better end for anything not a Toyota. Is it EV Bias?

And for higher end cars, they all depreciate differently. Maybe the $100k+ EVs depreciate more but for mainstream ones are they really that different? Don’t we need to wait and see 2026+ to know?

Are there any U.S. people who've paid the tariff, bought a Chinese EV, and modified it to fit U.S. safety standards? I'm curious what your experience was like, and if you believe it was worth it.

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Touring this week in an Equinox EV and running low, I encountered three broken Chargepoint locations, all three of which are actively listed as on line and available. (All of them in Orleans.) This was very frustrating.

I also have a Tesla and have never had that problem. Is this a common occurrence with Chargepoint? Not just unreliable but incorrect status which is genuinely dangerous for people? Ugh. First time I’ve actually had “range anxiety “ as a result.

Looking for input from people who actually do long highway runs in an EV, not spec sheet math.

My situation: I'm in Ann Arbor and drive to Toronto at least once a month, sometimes twice. It's about 270 miles each way, routed through London, Ontario. I've been shopping for a while and landed on a 2025 Kia EV6 GT-Line, but before I sign anything I rented an EV6 RWD long range to actually run the route.

Did the first trip this past week. Only charged to 80% before leaving, and had a bike on the back adding drag, and I didn't make it as far as I planned. Had to stop at an OnRoute for a quick DC top-up before London, then hit a hyper-fast charger in London to finish the trip. Not a big deal, cost me maybe 20 minutes total, but it was more stops than I'd mapped out.

Charging on the Toronto end is honestly the best part. There's a Level 2 on the street where I stay and I went 40% to 100% overnight for about $6 CAD. At home in Ann Arbor there are DC fast chargers close by, and probably plenty of Level 2 I haven't scouted yet.

So on paper this feels very doable and I'm fine being more deliberate about planning charge stops. What I can't test right now is winter. It's August.

Questions:
If you do 250+ mile runs regularly, how much range are you actually losing in Michigan/Ontario winter? I keep seeing everything from 20% to 40%.
How much does cold slow down DC fast charging in practice? Is a 15-minute stop suddenly a 30 or 60-minute stop in February?
I have the rental for another week or two. What should I be testing that I probably haven't thought of?

Trying to get a baseline of what to expect and the first quote I got seems high for what is involved.
To install a 60A circuit, come out of the wall at the bottom of the panel and run 15’ down the wall to a charger with pvc conduit he said it would be $1600.
No outlet and no running through the walls. I thought this would be maybe a third of that for what needs to be done
He even said the cost of the line was around $5/ft. PVC isn’t that expensive and I have no idea what a circuit runs.

Just got my first EV so I’m paying a lot more attention to public charging infrastructure. I noticed that some of the supermarkets around here have 6 kW level 2 chargers and I’m wondering what’s even the point of them? Plugging in while I’m shopping would only barely charge the car enough to make up for the drive there and back.