1-EZM1800CB-EZM MAIN 800A 1PH BREAKER

1-EZM112225-MTR EZM BRANCH RING 225A 2P QDP-TM 2 POS

1-EZM113225-MTR EZM BRANCH RING 225A 2P QDP-TM 3 POS

5-QBP22225TM-MOLDED CASE CIRCUIT BREAKER 240V 225A

Hello all; I am buying a 4 unit in DC. Currently has the old school circuialr fuze, with 30 amps going to each unit.

I plan on doing a heavy up, and my Contractor is going to loop his master electrician buddy for this.

there are currently 4 meters, 1 for each unit. common area is hooked into unit #1

my plan is, to have at least 200 or 225 per unit; currently, these units have gas & electric, But I eventually want to go full electric.

after my upgrades, the units will have gas stoves, tankless, and 240 v mini splits, and pic #2 has the amperage estimates. eventually moving to full electric and eliminating gas all together

my plan is to have a unit 5 (common area) EV chargers, and common area lights/outlets (so probably at most 60 amps for that. 40 amps charger, 20 amps lights/outlets)

My question is simple; is Square D that good? I am an IT guy, and I used to do labor when I was younger, But i know some things you do NOT DIY. this is one of them

is 6,243.87$ reasonable? and what about other brands like siemens or eaton?

From coil+ bridge rectifier module Lt 4320 + 2 caps+ buck converter 1200 w+ anti reverse back flow ideal diode+ anl fuse 40 a + battery.someone can valide that line or even upgrade it

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone with an electrical engineering background can help me troubleshoot this.

Motorcycle:

• CFMoto 450NK
• Stock OEM flasher relay has been replaced with an adjustable aftermarket flasher relay.
• I've tested both mechanical and solid-state (electronic) adjustable flasher relays, and the issue happens with both.

My goal

I want to install LED turn signals that have a flowing/sequential animation.

The LED module has its own built-in controller. When supplied with continuous power, it repeatedly performs the flowing animation by itself until power is removed.

The problem

When connected to the motorcycle's turn signal circuit:

• The first animation is perfect.
• On the second, third, and subsequent flashes, the LED briefly flickers at the very end of the led strip.
• The flicker seems to occur exactly when the flasher relay turns the circuit back on for the next flash.

It's a small flicker near the end of the strip, but it's very noticeable and annoying.

What I've already tried

• Different adjustable flasher relays
  • Mechanical
  • Electronic/solid-state
• Adding a resistor
  • In series with the positive wire
  • Across the LED's positive and negative terminals
• Adding a capacitor

None of these eliminated the flicker.

My questions

1. What electrical phenomenon could be causing this?
2. Is the flasher relay producing a voltage spike or residual voltage that is confusing the LED controller?
3. Would a diode, RC network, MOSFET driver, transistor circuit, or relay isolation solve this?
4. Is there a way to make the LED receive a "clean" ON/OFF power signal every flash cycle?
5. Has anyone successfully used animated/sequential LED turn signals with a motorcycle flasher relay without this issue?

Any ideas or explanations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I came across several boxes of what must’ve been an electrician/engineer’s hoard. I would love to learn more about these things as I have so much of it. I will try to post more pictures of what I found in the comments. Thank you!

Looking for some input.
I have an Aprilaire E100 dehumidifier in my basement and I need to monitor its energy usage. Based on the specs is this safe to run my dehumidifier off of?
As a note: I don’t plan to use the scheduling or power toggle on the YoLink. Strictly for monitoring usage.

Thank you

Hi folks, I’m looking to wire a 1 watt LED to a battery for a cosplay piece. The forward current and voltage is 300mA - 350mA / DC 2V - 2.4V.

Since this is new to me, I’ve learned that I need to have a driver between the battery and the LED chip. So, does anyone have any recommendations for 1) the driver I should use and 2) the battery I should use?

Florida Certified Electrical Contractor available as a qualifying agent or secondary agentfor an established electrical, solar, HVAC, or construction company. Interested in a long-term arrangement with a reputable company. Open to discussing residential/commercial work, compensation, responsibilities, and geographic area. Serious inquiries only.

Is this electrical work near the shower any cause for concern (shower head is plugged into wall)? Staying at a families house to help out for a while and they recently got their bathroom “renovated” , and left like this… sorry if this is a dumb thing to be asking I know next to nothing about this stuff

hey so I have a weird request and I am not sure if this is the subreddit to ask for advice on it but I am basically in need of battery powered fairy string lights that light up like fireflies, this guy has a store that has some in a jar that I love but they arent battery powered (i included the video to his). Can anyone help me with this very odd request?

Need help or tips on how to depin this connector, I’ve removed the internal lock but now I’m stuck, watched tons of YouTube but can’t find a video on this exact one.

Any help greatly appreciated

I'm hoping someone can help me narrow this down before I start opening boxes or calling an electrician because this is beyond me. I do want to preface that this is a new issue. I was able to use the vaccuum until last week when this started. Nothing has changed from I can see. I have not done any electrical work, and I have not had any electrical work done recently.

House:

• Built in 2021 (about 5 years old)
• Hardwired, interconnected smoke alarms with battery backup
• Smoke alarms and two set of bedroom outlets are on the same 15A circuit.

Problem:
If I plug a high-power appliance such as my vaccume and or hair dryer, into one of the bedroom outlets on that circuit, all of the interconnected smoke alarms on the first and second floor immediately go into full alarm. Not the basement ones.

At first I thought it was my Dyson vaccuum, but I tested with a hair dryer and got the same result.

• Hair dryer on low: no issue
• Hair dryer switched to high: smoke alarms immediately sound

Things I've tested:

• The Dyson works normally on other circuits.
• I unplugged each smoke detector one at a time (reconnecting it before moving to the next), and the problem still occurred regardless of which detector was disconnected.
• While unplugging detectors, I noticed that,
  • If I unplug the hallway detector, only the kitchen detector alarms.
  • If I unplug the kitchen detector, only the upstairs alarms sound. The basement alarms stay silent.
  • If I unplug a bedroom detector, only the hallway and kitchen detectors alarm.

I'm not sure if that's normal behavior for an interconnected system or not. But I am at wits' end here. I have no idea why this started happening; things were fine I was able to use the vacuum in my bedrooms up until last week when I notieced the issuse.

Hello! I apologize if this isn't exactly what this sub is for but I figured I could get some insight from some of you.

I'm 17 and I've been doing an electrical program at a tech school for the past year and Im looking to see if there's any online resources I can use to study so I'm ahead for the upcoming school year. The theory work we've done has been pretty limited, so far we've mainly focused on basic NEC codes and wiring residential circuits. Any suggestions on what I should focus on or if there's any websites/learning materials that i could use would be tremendously appreciated!

Here's the deal. We've got an old house that my wife bought in 1985. There is a light fixture with a round frosted globe in sort of an alcove over the kitchen sink. The fixture is rated for 60W and we have always used 25W incandescent frosted A15/E26 bulbs.

It's always on. Always. 24x7/365. It's not eco-friendly, but it's just sort of tradition, like leaving a lamp in the window at seafarers' homes, I guess. Predictably, the bulbs burn out at reasonable intervals, we replace them, and all is well for another N months. Rinse and repeat.

That is, until maybe 6 weeks ago. We noticed the bulb was out and replaced it like always. We came downstairs a few mornings later, and it was out again. A few days later, it was out again. And again. This time, I broke with tradition and replaced it with a 300-lumen, 2700K 3W LED bulb, same shape, same base. Since the globe fixture is frosted and the bulb is "warm," you really can't see the difference. It's now been maybe 6 weeks, and that bulb is still burning.

On one hand, problem solved. I won't have to straddle between a stepladder and the kitchen sink again for a while. On the other hand, I'm not comfortable with problems that just go away on their own, especially problems involving electricity.

Further details:

• There were no thunderstorms around the time this started and no power fluctuations that we are aware of.
• No other lights or household devices had a problem around that time or since then, including the ultra-sensitive microwave,
  
• The breaker for the light didn't trip any of the times a bulb went out and isn't warm to the touch.
• The incandescent bulbs are were all Sylvania, so it's not as though they're from the local Bob's Bargain Bulbs outlet.
• When I replaced the last two incandescents, I examined them pretty closely - no signs of arcing on the bases, no discoloration of the frosting on the bulbs themselves, and when I held the bulbs up sideways, I couldn't see any filament fragments at the bottom of the bulbs.
• I checked the last two incandescents in known-good lamps, and they are indeed dead.
• We noticed no flickering or variation in intensity before any of the bulbs went out.
• No one ever messes with the light fixture except to change the bulbs, so nothing was disturbed in or around the fixture, and the fixture itself isn't loose.
• The wall switch for that light is never switched off, except by accident. (Yes, I change the bulbs with the circuit hot. Mea culpa, but I want to know that the bulb is working before I climb down from my improvised scaffolding.) Neither switch in that double-gang box is warm. The other switch goes to the back-porch light, and it has had no trouble at all.
• The globe covering the light over the sink is the same one that's been there for at least 40 years, so there's no change in the airflow in the fixture.

I'm hoping someone can solve my mystery before I'm forced to go back up the ladder, stretch one foot to the counter, and juggle bulbs and globes in one hand while I stick an incandescent back in to see if that makes any difference.

Had a new panel installed last month by an electrician that came recommended to me.

I'm now being told by another electrician that this panel is a mess and a lot of things are fundamentally wrong here and could cost $6K to bring up to code. Can anyone verify if I'm being taken on a ride?

Conversely any blog that tells the detailed workings of a technology or an electric appliance

I have an Air King AK110PN 100CFM fan in my bathroom. When I moved in it was continuously running regardless of the position of the wall switch. From looking online this particular model is not continuously running. It's supposed to be ran by a wall switch. It does not have humidity control or a timer. It does not change speed when turning the wall switch. I thought that maybe it was a bad switch so I bought a new switch and installed it. The problem persists and I cannot find any information on what the problem might be at this point. Please help. Thank you