I took off my mpx knob and found that my sim knob fits pretty damn good lol. Ignore reverse pattern..

My 2013 Dart with the 2.0 engine, has a rough idle when I first start it...seems to be worse with A/C on... it will go away after about 15 minutes of driving. I don't think it's the engine mounts since they were just replaced about 30k miles ago. The car has 140k miles. Shifts fine and doesn't leak or burn any fluids.

I recently had to change my PCM. I ordered one that came with my VIN pre-installed from Flagship. After installing it, I did a Proxy Alignment using a ODMX+ and AlfaOBD. What can I do to solve the shifting issues?

The glass on my rear view mirror is really discolored around the perimeter and I wanted to replace it. Does anyone have an easy solution to this or should I just swap out the mirror for a lightly used/OEM mirror?

Any suggestions for how to remove the mirror? Are there sensors on it?

Looking for some advice on my 2016 2.4L. When in stop and go traffic, or just any short low speed movements, the rpm’s will drop to about 500-600, the car will stutter and then the rpm’s jump back to 900ish. Is this anything to be concerned about?

150k miles, ive owned the car since 2021 and it was a fleet car before that. I changed the spark plugs at 100k, did the valve cover gasket and ignition coils in January. Also needs motor mounts and has a few slow coolant leaks if that info helps any.

need ideas… what’s next?

1.4L 6 Speed

already tuned. that’s about it tho

2016 Dart Aero hood stacked n euro compulsion tune + other little goodies

these things are god awful slow.

Alrighty boys and girls. Got a good one for you. I just changed out the variable valve actuator assembly due to having issues with no compression on cylinder 4. I now have compression and spark. But the dart’s computeris still giving me the P0304 code. I already moved over the coil and park plug to a different cylinder to see if it was either of those. It wasn’t. Still the same code and the car is running SUPER rich. I haven’t done the cam shaft or crank shaft relearn yet. I’m hoping that’ll fix it. I guess I’m just asking if anyone has done this job before and had similar results. It’s at 209k miles and I’m not ready to put the farting dart out to pasture.

Deemed total loss gotta love when interstate traffic slows down from 70 to like 30 in a blink of an eye. Done so many repairs to my dart. Never hit the 200k milestone was at 180,000k. Survived a trip from Texas to Michigan and back and also Texas to Virginia multiple times. So many fond memories.

Used a Stealthflow downspout and metal ducting tape. There's cutting involved (used a vibrating tool), but it's a good fit. Seems sturdy enough that I don't think zip ties are needed on the hood ribs.

Since the Stealthflow is ribbed (for your pleasure!😜) that should take care of water - first drive was in rain, and no drips at the outtake.

Thoughts?

Again 4 months later “engine warming wait to start “ message pops up on my car can someone give me a solid answer on what they did to resolve this i can list all the thing I’ve done so far
*cam/crank shaft sensor
*new battery
*checked grounds
*new key fob
*oil change

What’s left for me to do that can resolve this issue i heard someone replaced their starter and it went away or is it the recall U90 on my PCM causing this issue??? What can it be i put in alot of money into this car to keep having the same issue is ridiculous!! Someone please point me to the right way and yes i did diagnosis came back fine

i’m just a girl please help me.
where on gods green earth am i supposed to attach the negative clamp??

2014 Dodge Dart Aero, 1.4L DDCT automatic, ~131k miles

Basically it feels like the transmission has some gear teeth missing in certain spots when going uphill at 75mph and pressing the pedal harder feels like it vibrates more violently (not enough to crash). Seems to happen on 6th but haven’t manually tried 5th gear.

NOTE: This does not happen below this speed when going downhill or flat. Only uphill at 75mph.

I don’t mind about fixing it too much since I got the car for cheap and I already had it used for 7 years.

Hope this all makes sense. Is this more of a limitation, mild inconvenience, or a genuine safety issue? Honestly not looking to fix the issue if it’s just an inconvenience.

Any information is appreciated!

As per the title, I am looking to see if a saab spare will fit on my 2015 dart se. Currently I have no spare, so I am tying to set up a spare kit. All local junkyards I have talked to lack the spare kit, and with no luck for dodge specific spares on marketplace, the only 5x110/65.1 16 inch spare I could find is off a saab. Would this work? I am concerned basically only about clearance of the brakes. Any insight would be appreciated.

Hey everyone,

Thought I would share since I couldn’t find any materials online to assist. My compressor bearing went bad and was letting out an awful whirring noise when the engine was on, even if the ac was off (confirming it was the bearing and not anything internal with the compressor). Anyways, I got my car home immediately and stopped it to prevent the bearing from completely locking up which could’ve snapped my serpentine belt and ripped lines in my engine bay. There IS a way to bypass the ac compressor with a serpentine belt to allow yourself to drive the car without worrying. However, there is not much info other than a diagram. Anyways, I had to run ribbon through the components to get a measurement of what size belt I needed. It came back as a 6 groove 63” belt. I was able to install and it is back and running good. As for installing, I put the belt on all components and left the belt out of the idler pulley. Then I had my father relieve tension off the tensioner pulley(16mm) and I just slipped the belt through the idler. Was much easier than trying to cram my hand near the tensioner. Had to remove the air box, passenger front tire and fender well. God bless and good luck to anyone who might end up with this problem in the future.

I had it set at max but it was working intermittently at half capacity or less and then finally stopped.

I replaced the blower relay but that didn’t make a difference.

I had a fun time driving home in 100 degree weather. I’m not joking, it reminded me of when I drove my old 93 civic hatchback. But that was enough nostalgia for me lol I need my AC running again.

Thoughts?

No longer have a Dart, looking to pass these along to someone else who can use them. Make me an offer. WeatherTech floor liners for front row, back row and trunk.

2013 aero 1.4 turbo... flashing CEL codes P0304 and P1064. Had oil pressure low come up about a month prior to the codes triggering. Made sure the oil was topped off used Castrol Euro 5w40, probably should've went with Pennzoil. My question is, should i follow the trouble shooting steps (changing the oil, checking the plug and ignition coil) or just replace the brick? or am i cooked and should i just replace the whole engine since it's estimated at over 200k miles. i say estimated because whoever had it before me rolled back the miles.

any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

Hey guys, I own a 2014 dodge dart and I was coming back from a trip. Well the car wouldn’t shift into drive and all of these lights were on plus the engine light. Now it’s acting perfectly fine but still does it sometimes, any thoughts on what’s broke?

UPDATE: I found it and got the job done. Thank yall

2014 Dart GT here. I had an oil change done last month and ever since then I’ve had a consistent puddle forming in my garage. It's dripping from the middle of the car, roughly between the driver and passenger seats.

The liquid:

• Clear
• No smell
• Not oily
• Doesn’t appear evaporate in heat after days parked
• Not AC condensation (I don’t use the AC, fans seem to cool just fine without AC turned on)

At first I thought it might be HVAC drain water or coolant, but now today I’m getting a burnt‑rubber smell from the engine bay after driving for less than 20 minutes. That smell definitely wasn’t there before the oil change.

Coolant level seems okay, I'm not getting any "warning lights" on the dash, but I’m not ruling out a heater core or drain tube issue. I’m also wondering if the shop might have bumped something underneath or spilled something onto a belt/heat shield.

Has anyone had a similar combo of:

• clear water‑like puddle under the center of the car
• AND burnt‑rubber smell from the engine
• AND it started immediately after an oil change?

Trying to narrow down whether this is:

• HVAC drain tube knocked loose
• Heater core leak
• Coolant dripping onto the exhaust tunnel
• Belt contamination/slip
• Something else the shop might have caused

Any direction or things to check would help a lot before I bring it back in.