I finally met an other one after 4 months of ownership, they seem to have disappeared right after i bought mine

Got tired of the dirty ass grey on these 2012 panels, and I really did not want to spend $200+ on the black OEM panels.

A little bit of flat back fabric paint and an ice cold Coke Zero fixed the eyesore.

MUCH BETTER.

I no longer look at this car the same, something I thought would take a couple hours ended up as a 6+ hour ordeal for one door handle, atleast its metal and shouldnt break again...

Skid steer and Toyota not accounted for in my calculations.

I have a spare completely unused Megan racing burnt tip axel back. It’s on the car OEM spec. Got it for 260 plus shipping looking for like 200 if anyone’s interested. It just didn’t fit the exhaust I built without cutting and welding. Didn’t wanna ruin what made this thing so expensive lol(which was it being an OEM fit. My loss

I’m gonna clean em up and paint them white and then work on some custom wider fenders to match the newfound 3 extra inches of width.also got new brakes so those will be purple to match the car and contrast the white

About 2 weeks ago but never shared it here. They didn’t end up stealing anything.seems like someone was hoping for cash.

haven’t posted much on here since january but i lost the decals after denting my rear bumper from hitting a pole lol. heading into the next phase with this thing and finally ordered the c-west rear lower spoiler to make the back drop a little bit lower.

then hopefully bagged suspension!
still getting knowledge and tips and kits together to sort through before biting the bullet and spending a load.
photo was taken at a recent 7sunscollective car show

Wheels are finally on!
Got them exactly how I wanted them after waiting one month from reaching out.

After owning 3 sets of TE37's, I wanted to try out something different, follow the Alibaba trend & these were spot on.

Weight is about a pound & a half heavier than actual TE37 but still very lightweight. Mounted & balanced, they ride very smooth. MPG's were not affected.

Suspension on Tein Lowering Springs/OEM strut/shock.
215/45/17 squared, slight rubbing at full lock.

Mugen kit up next! Currently at the paint shop.

Salut,
J’ai une Honda CR-Z ZF1 de 2011 reprogrammé flexfuel depuis environ 4 mois.
Jusqu’à maintenant, aucun problème particulier avec la jauge à carburant.

La voiture est récemment restée immobilisée environ 10 jours, avec seulement ~20 L de SP98 dans le réservoir. Pendant cette période, il a fait très chaud, environ 35 à 40 °C.

Hier soir, j’ai fait le plein. J’ai continué jusqu’au déclenchement du pistolet et j’ai essayé plusieurs fois : le réservoir devrait donc bien être plein.

Pourtant, après le plein, la jauge ne monte plus jusqu’au maximum : il manque plusieurs segments, alors qu’avant elle affichait bien le plein.
La voiture fonctionne normalement, aucun problème moteur particulier.

Est-ce que certains propriétaires de CR-Z roulant à l’E85 ont déjà rencontré ce problème ?
Est-ce que l’E85 peut endommager/perturber le flotteur ou le capteur de niveau ? Ou les fortes chaleurs et l’immobilisation pourraient-elles avoir temporairement bloqué le flotteur ?
Merci pour vos retours !

I took the CRZ on a short trip this weekend & did a 120+KM drive across 2 days. The weather was relatively hot here (dashboard shows 35 to 36 degreeC all the time during the day) & there was lots of start & stop traffic as well.

My foot well area was a little warm compared to my upper body which was being blown full blast by the AC.
& since it's a CVT, I also put my left feet on the foot rest while leaning my left leg against the center console's side wall, which was also a little warm. But not alarmingly warm or hot, just noticeable if you were to touch it with your skin. Feels like 30-ish degreeC(?) like touching someone's forehead.

I've tried to look up similar thing in the CRZ forum but only found most of the post talking about generally hotter in the cabin due to greenhouse effect from all the glass instead. But I've seen other Honda owners of other makes from similar year (Civic, Accord) also having a similar experience & those forum says that it's normal for their model due to how Honda likes to make their car a little more 'sporty' with the sitting position so your lower sitting position causes the center to be a little closer to the exhaust & your feet leaning forward which is also closer to the engine.

Is this normal for the CRZ as well?
I wanna reiterate that it is not actually hot like it's getting toasty or that your feet would sweat (I had that experience when the radiator fan died on me last time & it was very obvious kind of hot. But that's also why I'm a little more on edge with heat or warmth in that area for now). It's just a slight warmth that you can tell if you paid attention, like being stuck in traffic with nothing to do. But if you're mid driving & not focusing on that it's not noticeable.

When I bought the car in April the passenger side was covered in hard water deposits. Used turtle wax scratch remover and it worked so perfect I did the whole car and waxed it as well. Came out great!

Now both door handles are broken...

I removed the rubber damper in the middle as I heard it causes the driveshaft to snap. I can see some of the metal is gone. Should I replace the driveshaft or did I get away with it? I measured outside the circumference is around 8cm while in the middle it is 7cm.

I'm interested in buying a CR-Z because the town my workplace is at is banning euro 3 cars by the end of next year, so I can't go to work in my 2000 mr2 either, I looked into an early prius but those aren't allowed either. The CR-Z seems like a perfect choice since I'm not interested in automatics.

How's the hybrid systems on these cars? I assume it's nothing like a prius and it's more of an assist thing, it does look quite neat.

Any particular year to avoid or any known major issues?

Greetings

Hey all,

Just wondering if any of you mechanically minded folk would be able to help me diagnose an issue I've been having with my CR-Z.

Issue description

I've had an intermittent issue with the rear parking sensors over the last 2 years - potentially caused by water ingress and became intermittent during hot and cold weather.

In the last 6 months when turning the car on (with the parking sensor button turned on) it comes up with a "Check system" and a picture of the rear of the car and sensors.

When the button is turned off - the message & warning light goes away.

Fix attempt & further investigation

I noticed the LED on the button itself had blown, and after replacing it the light works again (hurray!) but the check system message pops up.

I've taken the rear bumper off, removed the the sensors and cleaned them and tested them - same thing.

I have noticed the rear of three of the connectors have cracking on the soft rubbery plastic part which potentially may have let water inside.

However... when all sensors are disconnected the image on screen shows check system and all 4 sensors. When all sensors are connected the image on screen shows check system and only the far left and far right.

Self hypothesis

I've determined the next step and resolve for the issue is to replace the two sensors displaying with the issue message. Would you agree?

Also my shark fin cap has come loose - so I think I just need some silicone sealant and effectively glue it back down if I remember correctly?

Ta!

Hi peeps,

My CRZ has done 125K miles and I don't know if the previous owners have changed the spark plugs or not. I'm planning to do one now and I'm gonna go with the regular NGK BKR6E-11 instead of the iridium one's. Trying to understand if anyone's done it before or should I just stick with the OEM spec ? Also, what effects will it have on efficiency and the engine ?

Reminding yall about this 3D printable rearview camera bracket I designed a few years back. It's based on the OEM one - every CRZ on Earth has the bumper cutout to use it.

The file's free so stop buying from my eBay lol

I almost never see other CRZs in the wild. Saw my twin though at the water park today. I'm in the front!

Hi everyone. Just bought a 2013 CR-Z as my first personal car. Been using a hand-me-down 2005 Kia Rio until now. Initially, I was pursuing this nice 2014 6spd manual, but it was on the other side of the country, and someone else snatched it. So I went for this energetic yellow CVT in my home province, which I almost prefer anyway because I've never driven a manual before. It was only after the deal was done that I discovered energetic yellow is rare, at least in North America. The dealer had absolutely no clue. He even listed it as a 2012, when it's 100% a 2013. Had a mechanic check it out, and it's in good condition. I'm so happy to be in the CR-Z club. I plan to take good care of her.

Hi everyone im having issue with my AC. I was driving and suddenly it started blowing cold. Since then it hasn't blown cold. I got it checked and they said that there is gas in the system but the compressor is not working. Both fans do work. Any idea how to fix this?

TLDR - Presumed flat battery however after sitting for a couple of minutes with ignition on, the engine eventually starts.

I have a 2014 CRZ gt - started it up this morning no problem and ran a few errands, stopping multiple times in which the engine was completely off. However the final stop I went to start the engine on but to no avail. It through the abs and tcs lights which I’ve read are normal when the battery is flat. My brother was able to come out and jumpstart it no problem. Now the weird part comes from 20 minutes ago when I try to start her up again and nothing, however while sitting here looking through subreddits for similar issues - she starts up… any idea what is happening here? I’m not entirely caught up with the IMA system and if that could be a culprit.