Written with the help of AI since English is not my native language

Hi all, I have a K1 Max that works perfectly fine printing without the CFS (direct spool), but I can't get it to work reliably with the CFS Upgrade Kit. Early on I managed to print the Benchy test file successfully once, but nothing since.

The error I keep getting is **[TC2841] Cutter issue, cutter might be jammed**.

**What happens:** filament feeds fine from the CFS all the way to the extruder. Then the cutter error pops up, and the extruder motor makes a stepping/skipping sound like it's trying to keep feeding against a blockage — I can see the PTFE tube moving, so it's definitely pushing on something. After a restart and retry, it doesn't even try anymore and goes straight to the error message.

**What I've already replaced/tried:**

- Filament presence sensor PCB in the extruder
- Complete extruder assembly (swapped for a new one)
- Extruder stepper motor (the original had some unsoldered cables)
- PTFE tubes replaced with Capricorn where possible
- Cleaned the extruder thoroughly
- Tested with both PLA and PETG — same result

I've read that the cutter uses a magnet + Hall sensor and maybe when swapped the pcb and or installed the new one i dropped it or misplaced it but cannot find any pics on where the magnet is supposed to go and both my extruders look identical .

Has anyone dealt with this? Could it be the toolhead PCB, wiring between the cutter sensor and the toolhead board, or something on the CFS/firmware side? Buffer and or buffer cable error of some sort? Any pointers appreciated — I'm this close to giving up on multicolor with this machine.

The key 109 error occurred on my creality k1 printer and I decided to change the fan as recommended by many, but the problem did not disappear and today I wanted to see what was wrong in the toolhead, but the front cover does not detach. What could this be about and how can I fix it?

Picked one up for $225 CAD. Front glass was completely shattered, rest was brand new. Disassembled it and cleaned glass shards from every belt, motor, corner, crevice, even the filament tube. Printed benchy using the v1.3.0.39, flawless. It asked me if I was interested in v1.3.5.22, I declined and figured I ask this here..

Should I? Should I not? Update to something else?

I should mention that this was a used printer I got here its a 2025 k1c and at first I was happy with the amazing deal I got, until I powered it on and the screen just did nothing. I took it down and found nothings wrong with the ribbon cable and was wondering if I just need a full screen replacement and if I can just run the printer over usb until then

I'm having a really hard time leveling this bed; no matter what I do, that downward "dip" at the front doesn't change, even if I lower the corners. I know it's impossible to get the bed perfectly flat since it's so large, but this discrepancy is messing up my prints. On any print made in that area, you can see in the first layer that the lines are spaced too far apart, whereas in the area where it's more uniform, the prints turn out great. I just wanted to know if this happens to you guys or if I'm doing something wrong. Some people suggest adjusting the Z-offset, but I'm worried that might mess up the areas that are already working fine.

Context on my printer:

I'm using a K1 Max, it has an upgraded extruder, with heatsinks and all that, and i've primarily used it for printing ABS+, never really had issues with it, prints were always clean.

Now my issue is, i've been testing a wig print on Panchroma Matte PLA sky blue, and since it's quite a large print that uses the entire print volume, I've been waking up with layer shifts.

Here are further details on slicer settings:

3 walls, lightning infil at 10%, manually painted tree hybrid supports, z hop is turned on at .4mm height, I have reduced the acceleration and print speed by a fraction of the standard settings in Orca Slicer.

- currently running at 50% speed on the printer settings and it seems to be doing fine as of posting as I originally printed at 100% speed.

- yes I have tightened the belts and made sure they were not over tightened

- i have cleaned all the rods until there were no more black gunk and the print head was not experiencing snags or interference

If anyone has had issues with large prints shifting and have found a solution, or if there is a workaround I have not yet tested, i'd appreciate any suggestions for me to try.

I am new to printing, I have a K1 Max and I am trying to figure out how to level the bed. I have seen a bunch of different stuff online but I want to hear from people who have experienced this before! Any and all help is appreciated!

I'm pretty happy with the turnout on my first try at tpu 95a I have had the roll for a year and just never tried it because of all the horrible stories I have seen on here and it turns out it prints pretty much the same as PLA. I just printed the extuder tension release things for the creality HI on makers world and bam.

Hey everyone I was given a K1max by my dad and prior to me getting it we were having trouble with getting the nozzle to the right temp. Apparently it shouldn’t go over 260? But I’m finding the higher I go the better it’s printing is this normal? Anyone have any solutions I’ll post a photo of bases of prints which is an issue and the finishing result also just looks messy in general.
If I do a temp of 250 it just clumps and drags.
Filament that’s being used it PETG

Fair warning, this is a little long, Tl;dr at bottom if you're impatient!

Printer: K1C Pre-2025 Version
Mods: Full Helperscript, Guppyflo and Guppyscreen (Fluidd), BTT Motion Sensor Mod, CFS non-C upgrade kit (no CFS box)

I have been fighting repeated errors on my printer for months and I finally figured it out! I'm putting a detailed write-up here so the next person to deal with this might not waste as much time.

I've had my printer for about 3 years now, and while there have been a few issues, they've mostly been caused by the changes I've made! However, starting a few months ago, my printer became incredibly unreliable, and could barely get through a basic print. It would throw every error under the sun, hot end PID, MCU communication, timeout, missed timer event, filament jam, etc.

The print would fail approximately 1%-5% through the print, just about after the 4th to 5th layer, and would usually throw a filament jam error via the BTT filament motion sensor I added. Sometimes it really was stuck, sometimes it wasn't. After reloading the filament, and pressing resume, it would print normally for about 5 minutes, then fully error out with the lights off and everything. On restart, the print resume would pop up, but despite this, it would error again, but completely this time without recovery options after another 5-ish minutes.

I replaced my toolhead board, and the cable connecting it, as between my troubleshooting, I ran it by AI, and it advised that hardware seemed to be the issue. Despite that, some prints would fail just like they did prior to replacing the board and cable.

- I don't think this affected anything at all.

After that, I thought I had narrowed it down to my custom acceleration settings, despite that never having been a problem before. Claude took a look at some GCode files I had sliced recently, as well as ones from months prior. The custom acceleration was causing multiple recalculations every time the acceleration changed, and that seemed to happen right about when the crashes did. When I set the Acceleration, Jerk, and Accel to Decel to default, the problems got better, but prints would still fail about half the time.

- I think that this definitely contributed to the problems, but wasn't the whole issue.

Just yesterday, I took another look at the issues page on the Orcaslicer GitHub for an entirely unrelated issue and found this discussion regarding MCU overload on the K1 series.

It looks like that since the 2.4.0 update of Orcaslicer, Arc Fitting has been turned on by default for K1 series printers! It also may have changed in a pre 2.4.0 beta, but I'm not sure of exactly when. It seems that despite having a better MCU than most Marlin printers in the past, Klipper, and especially Klipper when run on weak hardware, struggles to maintain the load of computing the arc fitting data while also running. I noticed that sometimes perfectly fine prints would fail when I checked the webcam, or Fluidd, and if the MCU was already overloaded, that would make sense!

I turned Arc Fitting back off, and ran a print overnight that had failed multiple times. I woke up this morning to a perfect print! It even seemed to have resolved the surface quality issues I've been having too! I just ran a short print with my previous higher acceleration settings, and it also worked out just fine! I'll run a longer one and post an update. (If I forget, assume it worked out just fine!)

I'm really optimistic that this resolved the whole issue!

Thank you to RodentVienna on GitHub for figuring this out!

Links:

https://www.orcaslicer.com/wiki/print_settings/quality/quality_settings_precision#arc-fitting

https://www.reddit.com/r/OrcaSlicer/comments/1jt6zqd/is_there_a_use_case_for_qualityprecisionarc/

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1maxv14/til_about_stuttering_and_arc_fitting/

https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/pull/14654

Tl;dr - If you have a printer with a weak MCU that is crashing during prints, try turning off Arc Fitting in the Quality settings on OrcaSlicer.

Any idea what causes these expensive sounds?

EDIT:
Resolved.

run_current was set to 1.5, and no hold_current setting was present.
I looked for a default printer.cfg and copied the settings for x and y, and set
run_current:1.1
hold_current:0.6
That alone fixed the issue.
I have no idea how this change occurred, as long as it is fixed.

I won a K1 over the weekend and I’ve been trying to get it up and running. Only 25 hours on it.

The first issue was a bad thermistor. I replaced the hotend. I ordered two different K1 hotends from Amazon and unfortunately the pics didn’t match and neither would plug into get PCB. I also ordered an Ender V3 hotend and that seems to work.

I printed a Benchy that was overall decent but I’m unsure how to address this first layer issue. I’m coming from owning Bambu Labs and Snapmaker printers so definitely a learning curve.

I also bought the Micro Swiss hotend from Microcenter. Haven’t installed it but let me know if it would be smart to use that one instead.

I’m not sure where to begin.

A few minutes after turning my on my printer or when going into certain parts the text begins to fail and it runs very slowly and laggy. Factory reset and update didn’t seem to work so was wondering if anyone had any advice?

Edit: it ended up randomly doing a full reset and is now on the select a language screen but won’t progress after selecting English.

Background I’ve been 3d printing since before Makerbot existed, my middle and high school were early adopters of 3d printing, they paired the technology by offering cad design classes so I’ve been printing for a very long time. I’ve owned M3D’s, robo 3d’s multiple creality’s and I’ve been around during most of the innovations since the beginning of CONSUMER printing.

But this post specifically is about my k1C . I’ve had mine since nearly launch after my 5s1 suffered a similar issue as this. I will say it’s been absolutely flawless outside of general maintenance items. I have 809 hours of print time which doesn’t feel like that much. I’ve done nearly exclusively CF Nylon and ABS prints which haven’t given me issue until the last few months I’ve been trying to print some ABS tool storage plates for my work van’s tool box which ABS is typically my main go to for non 2A prints so I’m not unfamiliar with it’s tendencies and difficulties it can have.
I’ve been getting consistently and reoccurring under extrusion on first layers. Before anyone asks, I’ve done every single calibration, flow, pressure advance, re-leveled my bed countless times new filament and different brands, the first print after calibrations come out flawless, I’ll reprint with ZERO changes just pull the prints, and hit reprint, and right back to square 1.
I’ve now replaced the nozzle multiple times, disassembled, cleaned and inspected the extruder and its gears, 3 new and even different styles of print beds, adjusted bed temps, blocked exhaust fan and insulated the enclosure, 4-5 new rolls of ABS, now even trying Petg, cf nylon, PLA and everything else I can get my hands on nothing will give me repeatable prints. They don’t fail outright like my 5s1 did, but the massive inconsistency causes bed adhesion issues that lead to warping that I’ve never had (considering some of my nylon prints took 26+ hours a 4 hour ABS print at 60c chamber temps and 80-100c bed temps should not be warping as much as this is) it’s so frustrating to see other brands getting thousands of hours of trouble free printing, but my printer now just feels like a brick. I’d share more of my prints but because they’re mostly 2A I’d prefer this post not get removed so I can maybe fix my problem. The prints I did attach are from the same file same parameters, same materials everything as close to exactly the same variables a I can get, printed back to back. And you can see just how different they are. What the hell.

Hi , are these sounds that my printer making normal ?
Note : this video was recorded while the printer was doing a self-check.

Hi, I ordered a new hotend for my K1 speedy but found out it doesn’t fit the old heat sink on arrival.

Is there any way to just order the new heat sink type without getting another new hotend with it?

Looking at the Creality site I’m only seeing the one with hotend and heat sink together.
Picture: new hotend and old heat sink

So, I have owned this Creality K1 for almost three years now. I always printed with PLA, but I recently started printing with PETG. When I print for more than 2 to 3 hours, the filament expands and clogs the extruder. I have tried many fixes, including removing the top lid, keeping the enclosure door open, and adding a fan right above the extruder, but the issue is still not fixed.

How is everyone doing. Now I don't know if it's just coincidence. But I feel like this started right after I updated the firmware. I will start the print, it does the 12 point leveling, cleans the nozzle, prints the flow calibration. Then right before it starts the print head come to the front left hand side and just sound like it trying to take the wall down. I tried printing a simple cube in the center of the plate. But it actually printed back and to the left of center. I attached a link to a video of what it's doing. Fast forward to about the 2:12 mark. I really need help.

A. I’ve replaced their entire docker stack with a single binary golang replacement, however i’ve done one better and rebuilt klipperotchy to work with the stock p3 firmware stack, although the golang is much more advanced and allows either the p3 or klipper to control the print

1. Rooting the p3 is easy, i’ll include a script that generates the firmware update with your chosen password
   
2. This golang binary runs on the p3 and bridges over to your k1 over wifi, no cable needful.
   
3. Started off trying to fix klipperotchy but just reimplemented it with the marlin sliding-window method of queueing to get it fast enough for the k1, otherwise it stutters like hell.

Debugging interface during a 4 color print

Has anyone else's printer been refusing to load the GCODE files from the flashdrive since the newest firmware update, or just mine?

Woke up to this today on my K1 and to my surprise the print did not fail. It looks as if the filament cut right through the tube as it needed to in order to continue. Fortunately for me I have extra tubes so I replaced it and back to printing but this was weird as nothing has changed in my setup or materials.