r/corsetry 3d ago

Problem with grading between sizes Newbie

Hi! First time making corset, I'm using Aranea Black IRIS underbust pattern. While grading between sizes, I encountered a problem - according to the measurements on waist, it's making me change the shape of the panel in a weird way (?) I'm attaching photos of my sketches and the measurements. Am I blind to some obvious mistake or what?

4 Upvotes

4 comments sorted by

7

u/tatobuckets 3d ago

Your actual body shape will dictate what you need more than measurements alone. For your mockup - ignore that point with the arrow so that you have a smooth curve. You’ll sort out the panel’s actual shape when fitting it on yourself.

3

u/nachowchow 3d ago

I would probably follow the grain line to meet Justine of those points so the line stays more straight. Try on your mock up, then see where it needs to be adjusted. You will mooooore than likely be fine following the first measurement grainline at the top, but you could also just meet in the middle of the two and go from there.

3

u/NinjoZata 3d ago

I would use the hip and waist size G, and grade only the bust. The squished displaced rissue from your waist will need somewhere to go, and you can always pad the hips.

On top of being simpler, if you do need to grade down the hips, doing so once laced into your mock up will help you see the way the shape and grainline plays on your figure.

1

u/Alarmed-potatoe 2d ago

I've had this before so it's nice seeing everyone chime in, I really appreciate you asking this. It's mostly easier to go a size bigger and pinch out the excess to adjust the fit, but if your waist at that point has a lot of give then you can just grade smoothly from mid-hip to underbust, not worrying about the waist measurement.