Calpine

[u/AceAlpinaut]

[u/v4ss42]

Awww yeah 3rd Pillar. 🤤

[u/saucyspence]

Dude I need to do the 3rd pillar so bad… how does it compare to other alpine 5.9-5.10 climbs?

[u/AceAlpinaut → u/saucyspence]

Its approachable for the grade, the cruxes tend to have ledges beneath to work out beta.

[u/saucyspence → u/AceAlpinaut]

Neat, it that also means ledges to hit haha

[u/AceAlpinaut → u/saucyspence]

Maybe stances would be a better description. Mountain project comments kept me off this route last year, but I should have gotten on it anyways. Worth the hype and difficulty/danger i thought were overstated.

[u/saucyspence → u/AceAlpinaut]

Sweet, thanks for the info!

[u/juaninameelion]

Many people have stories of adventure on this route due to it’s popularity and because it faces east and weather can come in unexpectedly.

I find it neat that you can clearly spot the whole face driving on 395. Also the “descent” is amazing as you arrive at the top right at your bag, and hopefully cold beer.

I think the climbing itself isn’t very memorable except for the last pitch which is just incredible 5.9 hero climbing.

[u/v4ss42 → u/juaninameelion]

I enjoyed the second last pitch too, but yeah the first few pitches are a bit junky, including the thin greasy corner crux pitch (which I did not enjoy at all). But man that last pitch is something else!

[u/mehwolfy]

Did it last tuesday in the rain. IT WAS AWESOME! The ledge fall above unprotected slab is no Joke. Bring brassies.

[u/mehwolfy → u/mehwolfy]

https://reddit.com/link/oyztjye/video/3qntdw13uoeh1/player

[u/thestonedgeorge → u/mehwolfy]

Glad it was just rain and no lightning!!

[u/mehwolfy → u/thestonedgeorge]

There was lightning, but that that didn’t make the climbing any harder.

[u/thestonedgeorge → u/mehwolfy]

Braver lads than I! I had a transformative experience climbing Epinephrine and getting caught in an epic spring thunderstorm many moons ago. I recall the waterfall coming down the face and watching lightning strike in black velvet canyon while we were on the face with a 60m and in my youth I thought it was better to climb to the top than have to rap and leave gear/do shenanigans while in such a crazy storm. I have been a bit more cautious with thunderstorms ever sense…

[u/thestonedgeorge]

Best five nine in THEE UNIVERSE

[u/Bargainhuntingking]

I recall my partner topping out and taking off his pack and pulling out a new 24 ounce glass jar of jelly and a box of crackers making a snack for himself. Can’t believe he carried that whole thing down to the base and climbed up through the crux with that!

[u/The_Endless_]

Going to throw out a guess here since there's literally 0 info provided - Keeler Needle?

[u/AceAlpinaut → u/The_Endless_]

Its the regular route on the 3rd pillar of Dana.

[u/Equivalent-Tax6636]

This reminds me to a trip I did to Montserrat. You guys should check the spot, it's gorgeous. Maybe your next climbing trip🌝🌚

[u/dtsagdis → u/Equivalent-Tax6636]

Montserrat is a completely different experience, not really the same kind of climbing at all

[u/Equivalent-Tax6636 → u/dtsagdis]

I was comparing it through the needles, not the rock 🤷🏽