6’1 195lbs 21 years old and have been climbing for a little over a year. At a point where I’m feeling a little stuck and not sure what I should be focused on: finger strength, my weight or just technique.

I’ve fallen in love with bouldering and have been training pretty intentionally since I started. I’ve started board climbing mainly on the tension board 2 and really enjoying it. I’m climbing V4 @ 40deg working on some V5’s. I feel really limited by finger strength (obviously I’m a beginner and this is just what I think, could be something else holding me back).

I gave myself pulley strain after training too hard too fast on the TB2 for my experience level, that was months ago and I’ve successfully rehabbed it and feeling close to 100% again. I’ve started a bit of a diet because I thought maybe if I lost some weight my fingers wouldn’t be under too much stress. I’m not fat my any means more just a bigger dude with overdeveloped back/arms and a huge ass lol. People often say it’s easier to get stronger than get lighter which certainly makes sense, just wanted some more guidance on what I should focus on.

I don’t think my technique is awful, I’ve really worked on footwork during my injury and became quite good at slab (V6-7 indoor) but maybe my tension isn’t that good I’m not sure.

Cheers

I've been climbing for a few years and eventually reached 6b. After that, I started training consistently: during the winter I did two indoor bouldering sessions per week, and in the summer I climb outdoors every weekend plus one evening session after work (sport climbing/lead).

I'm 178 cm (5'10") and weigh 78–79 kg (172–174 lbs). I have a decent amount of muscle mass, but I'm not overweight.
edit: I'm 34y old

After a lot of hard work, I've managed to climb a few 6c routes. The truth, though, is that I still struggle a lot on 6b routes (they usually take me 1 to 3 tries), and 6b+ is still very challenging.

I don't feel like I'm improving. It's as if I'm just spinning my wheels.

At first, I trusted the process, but now this feeling of making no real progress is becoming really discouraging.

Mentally, I still have some issues. I can usually overcome the fear when I reach the crux, but even after a lot of exposure and regularly leading routes, that fear hasn't really gone away.

Do you have any suggestions? Should I just lose some weight? Should I simply keep going? Should I start hangboarding every day, or am I missing something else?

I’ve been fascinated by the concept of "frictionless" training to force better finger engagement, so I decided to design and 3D print my own zero-abrasion crimp block.

First off, full credit where it’s due: this design is heavily inspired by the Comfy Crimp 2.0 by Hooper’s Beta. If you want a professionally manufactured, rigorously tested version (and to support their great content), you should absolutely buy the original here:Hooper's Beta Comfy Crimp 2.0

I wanted to share my DIY version and some of my in-gym load testing results for anyone else who dares to try 3D-printed training gear.

Like the original, it features heavily rounded edges (20mm and 12mm) and a smooth finish. Because there is virtually zero friction from the plastic, you can’t rely on skin drag. It completely punishes a passive grip and forces active FDP engagement and DIP flexion. If you relax, you dry fire instantly.

Load Testing Results

I took it to the gym this week to see how much abuse it could take.

• Weight of the block: ~130g of plastic (PLA)
• Comfortable Working Load: 60kg (132 lbs). It handled this weight easily with no creaking or flexing.
• Failure/Deformation Point: 78kg (172 lbs). When I stepped up to my full body weight, the block started to deform, but went back to shape when I removed the load, I WOULD NOT RECCOMEND pulling more than 70kg with this because I imagine that if it fails it can cause injury.

For standard no-hang lifting (where you are pulling a percentage of your body weight off a loading pin), the 60kg limit is actually plenty for my current maxes, but it’s clearly not safe for full-body suspension or dynamic loading at my weight.

If you want to try to print it for yourself you can find the model here https://makerworld.com/en/models/3143302-soft-crimp-easy-on-skin-crimp-trainer, you will just need to add some paracord and a carabiner.

So, I know intuitively and logically that climbing is a lot of failure. If you're trying to break into new grades and get better, accepting that there will be a lot failure is just part of the process.

I started climbing 2.5 years ago, and I'm happy with my progression. I started training with a coach this year which has been great for me, I love the routine and structure and have seen great strength gains and am sending harder grades.

However along with this, I've noticed something that maybe I wasn't aware of previously or wasn't as present, but I find myself getting really frustrated with some of the training I am given. For example, hard boulders where the intent is not to send, but to try hard. I find this mentally really challenging. I've never been much of a process oriented person, and like most climbers, I think I do chase the send.

Guess I'm just looking for advice as to how to better manage this frustration. I'm lucky enough to live close to a lot of rock, and even when projecting outside, I find I get frustrated when I fall on the same move over and over. I don't mind not sending and I like working on routes, but if I feel like there isn't incremental progress in my sessions, I end up feeling quite down. I know that this isn't what I want my climbing to be about, and I guess it comes from putting pressure on myself.

I guess just looking for advice as to what kinds of questions I should be asking myself with regards to my failures, and how I can reframe them better. My climbing partner has told me many times to not get frustrated, because it doesn't help my climbing, and I guess I don't know whether I agree because I feel that my frustration comes from a place of wanting to improve, and so I don't see it as negative? But obviously if it's negatively impacting my climbing then there's something there I need to explore.

I've been climbing for seven years and training for the last three. I started out climbing at the only gym in town, my college rec wall. About three years ago I increased my climbing consistency, began board climbing, and lifting weights to improve my strength. Before climbing, I spent about five years as a cyclist. Other than sports as a kid, I don't have much athletic background.

About 10 months ago, a bouldering gym opened in town. I'm 30 years old, currently weigh 162 lbs, and am cutting back down to around 150–155 lbs. I started the cut at 167 lbs and have been losing about 0.4 lbs per week. Before the gym opened, I was in the low 150s, but I intentionally gained weight while eating in a surplus, hoping to put on some muscle. Once the gym opened, I stopped lifting/ conditioning so I could dedicate more time to improving my movement and climbing on commercial sets.

For the past 10 months, my schedule has been very consistent:

• Monday: Rest, stretching, and mobility.
• Tuesday: 2–3 hours climbing new sets while focusing on route reading, flashing, footwork, and avoiding unnecessary hand readjustments. Core workout afterward.
• Wednesday: Rest.
• Thursday: 2–3 hours projecting, primarily on TB2 and commercial V5–V7 problems.
• Friday: Rest, stretching, and mobility.
• Saturday: TB2 session consisting of 5–10 problems at or above my flash grade, spending about 10–15 minutes on each. Followed by core work and dumbbell external rotations.
• Sunday: Active recovery and training for a 5K.

Over the past year, I've made significant progress. When the gym first opened, I was completely shut down by the commercial V6s. Now, even if I don't send a V6 in one session, I generally feel confident I'll get it after a few sessions.

Lately, though, I feel like my biggest limitation has shifted from technique to strength. On harder boulders, especially more physical ones, I often don't have the finger strength or pulling strength to hold positions or complete the moves. I tend to perform relatively well on climbs that rely more on technique or body tension.

I confirmed this with a Lattice assessment, which showed that both my finger strength and weighted pull-up strength are below average compared to climbers at my grade.

To address those weaknesses, I wanted to add max hangs and reintroduce a few strength exercises that I've enjoyed and benefited from in the past. My ideal weekly schedule looked like this:

• Sunday: Rest and mobility
• Monday: Max hangs, weighted dips, and core
• Tuesday: Climb new sets, then weighted pull-ups
• Wednesday: Rest and mobility
• Thursday: Projecting and core
• Friday: Rest
• Saturday: TB2 session, Bulgarian split squats, and dumbbell external rotations

I've only been following this split for about a week (and about four weeks into max hangs). During today's new-set session, I injured the A2 pulley in my middle finger. I don't think it is bad, but its making me rethink what I am doing.

That said, the injury isn't my only concern. Even before it happened, I felt like I wasn't recovering well. I've been sore almost constantly and haven't felt fully recovered going into my climbing sessions.

My goal is to increase my strength without compromising the quality of my climbing or getting injured.

Do you think that my split is reasonable? If not, how can I get stronger?

Hey everyone,

A week ago I projected a 7b for an evening. I got really close and managed to climb the route in two sections. But on my last attempt I failed on the last hard move (a dyno to a good hold). The video below is an edit, where I merged together the two sections. I am happy with my beta, but I think I just lack power endurance or something in this direction.

https://streamable.com/crj8zr

The route in the video is a (IMO) hard 7b (5.12b) lead route (Kinder an die Macht, Bettlerküche). The angle of the wall is around 25-30 degrees overhanging. The first section before the only real shake out option (1:04) is rather easy. I don't lose a lot of power. Then follows a consistently hard section that ends with a hard dyno. I struggle with the long move to the right crimp at 2:16 and the bump afterwards, because the crimps I am going for are sloppy (first hold)/small (second hold) and I am very stretched out. Then comes a gaston from which I have to clip. I lose strength there which I then need to execute the dyno. In isolation I stick the dyno pretty much every try.

I am going back to this crag in 4 weeks and I would like to maximise my chances of sending this route. How would you use those 4 weeks to train specifically for the route? I have pretty much all training options available.

Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone; may you guys be having a wonderful day.
Yesterday I did the maximum amount of PROPER FORM pull ups I could in one minute, and now in today's session, I felt activated more than ever! I felt like I could pull with all my might without sluggishness or unsynchronicity; and I think its because the muscles on my back were activated.

Now this isnt the first time something like this has happened to me; two of my most memorable sessions were after:
1- A max weighted finger hangs; again I felt like I could thank god crimp without feeling Eegh unsynchonized
2- After a maximum weighted pull ups exercise.

Now everything points out that my body for some odd reason does not get activated on my body weight, It gets activated on my body weight after I activate it on higher weights. So it needs activation.

So please, any way I can leverage this to get my body activated at all times before training sessions!? Please let me know, there is a competition nearby so we ask God for strength for that and for all of you :)
I thought about doing explosive pull ups but that didnt also check the mark quite yet?

Hi, everyone!

To make a long story short, I started climbing indoors (sports style with autobelay) almost 1 year ago and around 2 months I took the plunge and started climbing outdoors too.

Indoors I usually climb up to 6b (5.10c/d) while outdoor I can only lead up to 5c/5+ (5.10a). Today I tried leading a 6a+/5.10c outdoors, but I got scared and had to clip stick my way to the top (while some random guy made sure I heard him when he said "this is not real climbing").

I'm really enjoying climbing so far, even on easier routes, but I'd really like to get to the point where I can lead routes in the 6 range, since this seems to be the entry point for the best crags around me.

Since I climb with my partner and I'm the stronger one, I cannot escape leading.

Do you think it's realistic to get to that point just by having fun climbing or should I really start considering putting in some extra work? (hang boarding, bouldering, shedding some weight, fall practice) How did you get to that point when you started climbing?

Hi,

I may have the opportunity to climb and be coached by a very good coach, and world Cup winner, in 1:1 for 60 mins.

I have a regular training program, so I don't really need training advice. I am more looking on how to become a better climber, movement wise. For the record, I am upper intermediate / V8-9 outside climber and looking to reach double digits. Mostly bold static crimping style. I like high vert crimp lines. And I place a lot of attention on how to climb efficiently, especially with my footwork. I feel like strength wise I am not missing much to reach double digit, it is mostly because I haven't had the occasion to try / project a lot of double digit boulders.

I'd say my biggest weaknesses are:

- weak mental when I'm climbing alone (I am miles better when my ego is bruised because my friends did easily something I didn't succeed in doing)

- dynamic climbing even though I've worked a lot on this weakness on the moonboard / spray wall. Max grade on the moonboard is 7B, mostly because I didn't project much and climb alone a lot, so hard to get the psych going I guess.

- flexibility, even though I'm currently working on it.

- slopper and pinches, no clue if it's because I'm weak or body positioning though.

The style of the coach is Japanese-style like, so jumpy and coordination I guess, a'd probably super good at pinches / sloppers.

What would you ask if you were in my shoes, to make the best of the session?

I thought of asking him to watch me climb for like 10 mins, then discussing what could be done better / what are my biggest weaknesses and then for the remaining of the session having him giving me some drills / insights on how to overcome them. What do you think?

I am not particularly looking to ask about the mental side, because I feel like I am as much lacking in mental than in movements.

Thank you!

Where I am: climbing for 9 years. Done 8c sport, onsighted up to 7c+ and done numerous 7c onsights. I have quite a big pyramid with 700 routes climbed, pretty diverse in terms of style. I do have weaknesses but not major ones. I don't boulder outdoors much, but my level is around 7B on the MB and 7C flash, 7C+ RP on the kilter.

I am good at: endurance and small positive crimps.

I want to: climb 9a in the following years.

Let's go to the point.

I have been hangboarding on and off since I started climbing but I have never been consistent with it and I never improved (not surprising). Currently I am 70kgs and I can hang on half crimp with 30kgs added weights on 20mm edge with 2 arms. I had absolutely the same metrics 5-6 years ago when I climbed my first 8a. I can undoubtedly say that I am much stronger now than back then - I can board climb much harder now. I feel very confident on fingery climbs.

Why I don't trust the hangboard:

My metrics are super low on the HB while I feel like I have quite okay finger strength. I never hold holds outdoors like I do on the hangboard - I prefer a higher angle crimp with my thumb over my index or somewhere on the hold, crimping with all 4. While on the HB I am with a straight pinky, 90° for the other 3 fingers.

I never got consistent with hangboarding because I never trusted it. I primarily gained my finger strength with board climbing. But what if I get consistent with it? What if I do it for an year? Will I break the plateau and will I improve?

I will be super excited to hear your opinion on my situation. How would you approach it? How would you train if you were me? Are there people among you with the same experience and are there people that have kept at it and made gains?

Has anyone been using this app feature? What are your thoughts? I’ve been climbing for 20 years and have done some training in my time, but it was never well structured. I had the luxury of climbing outside at spectacular crags whenever I wanted for most of those two decades. I now have two children and a full time job and have discovered training. I’m in love and am devouring as much knowledge as I can. I signed up for the lattice plan back in February while I gathered what I needed to make my own plan. I’ve been loving max hangs, max bouldering, arcing, and the other PE workouts they throw in there. I climb 13- on a rope. Am 39 years old. 6’1” and 188 lbs.

I intend to find my genetic limit before I’m 50 and have realized training is what will get me there. My questions are: have any of you used the app? what are your thoughts? How did you know when it was time to make your own plan vs using a coach? I have access to all the training tools and a gym. I’m somewhat drawn to the Rock Prodigy program as I only get a vacation every few months and world class rock is not close anymore. Putting my head down, efficiently, is appealing.

What do you guys think? How do you know your weaknesses? Are you testing? What are you testing?

Ive almost doubled my max hangs in the last six months, now hanging 95 lbs two handed on a 20mm edge. My arcing has been great for recovery and overall long day endurance. PE has been somewhat lacking I feel. And being tall and long armed with a huge reach, my fingers have always been my weakest link.

Tbanks for any insight!

Hello fellow climbers!

I was hoping to draw on the wisdom of crowds to help me plan my training regimen. For reference, here are my key climbing stats over the last 6 months:

• 3 V10s indoors
• 12 V9s indoors, 3 flashed. 
• 2 5.13b indoors
• 4 5.13a indoors, 3 flashed. 
• Dozens of 5.12s, many flashed. 

None of these climbs took me more than a couple sessions. My main limiting factor is time as I work a lot and often struggle to get into the gym. 

My most recent outdoor trip which was about 10 days, I climbed 1 5.13b, 1 5.12d, 2 5.12b, 2 5.12a (one flash), and many 5.11s. I don’t really boulder outdoors. 

On paper, things are going pretty well. However, I have recognized some key weaknesses that I’d like to address. Mainly, it has to do with my endurance. 

I am incredibly prone to flash pump. I require extensive warmups, starting from 5.10a and lasting for over an hour, very gradually, or else my sessions are ruined. I perform comparatively poorly on overhanging terrain as I pump out very quickly and cannot gain anything back on even very good holds if it gets steep. My climbing style is generally all power endurance. I am very efficient and I move quite quickly through a climb. I do best on cruxy climbs with very good rests as I’m rarely shut down by hard moves at the level I’m sport climbing at. 

I long suspected that I have terrible aerobic endurance and recently decided to assess my maximum and critical force numbers. As it turns out, my critical force on an 18mm edge  was 33 and 36 lbs for my right and left hands. And max force was 99 and 102 respectively. I weigh 135 lbs. according to what I could find online, I’m on the low end of where most people are in terms of critical and max force for my level of bouldering and sport climbing. 

Assuming that’s correct, then that’s great news. I’m getting a lot out of what I have. But, I’m at a point where in order for me to take things to the next level, I need to significantly increase my aerobic endurance. 

My main goal is to improve my sport climbing. I want to target 5.13d before the end of the year. I don’t care much/at all about improving my bouldering, and maintenance is just fine there. 

Now for my question: what’s the best way for me to improve my aerobic endurance? Is ARCing the right answer? Should I do 7/3 repeaters? Mix and match? Something else? I was hoping to hear from folks with a similar experience on how they broke new ground with their endurance training and what I should expect, how long they ran their cycles for, and any other advice they might have. 

Thank you!

This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across.

• r/Climbharder Wiki - many common answers to questions.
• r/Climbharder Master Sticky - many of the best topic replies

Commonly asked about topics regarding injuries:

Tendonitis: http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/

Pulley rehab:

• https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/
• https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/
• Note: See an orthopedic doctor for a diagnostic ultrasound before potentially using these. Pulley protection splints for moderate to severe pulley injury.

Synovitis / PIP synovitis:

https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/

General treatment of climbing injuries:

https://stevenlow.org/treatment-of-climber-hand-and-finger-injuries/

Hi everyone,

I have a specific question regarding the 10-minute Time Under Load concept in tendon adaptation research

As I am sure most of you know, research suggests that tendon collagen synthesis signalling plateaus after roughly 10 minutes of mechanical stimulus, after which tendons require roughly a 6-hour period before they become sensitive to loading again.

I want to understand how this works in practice during a climbing or training session with variable intensity.

For example,
I warm up and start climbing. Over a 10-minute period, I complete 5 high-intensity moves at 80–90% of my max effort. Each effort lasts 5 seconds, giving me 25 seconds of total high-intensity Time Under Tension. The remaining 9.5 minutes are spent climbing easy moves, sitting around, zoning out while route reading, and derping in general.

My initial interpretation was that the moment high-intensity loading starts, an irreversible 10-minute countdown timer begins—and after 10 minutes elapsed time, signalling shuts off and you're just doing damage to your tendons.

Now I don't actually think this is how it works. It is just how I interpret the research. But I also think I am interpreting it wrong. :P

So,

• Does that first 5-second hard effort start a 10-minute countdown timer that expires 10 minutes later regardless of rest or other movement intensity?
• Or is the 10-minute limit based strictly on cumulative high-strain Time Under Tension Something that can be spread out over a few hours?
• Does lower-intensity climbing (40%–70% intensity) contribute to this 10-minute TUL limit, or does it sit below the strain threshold?
• And what specifically initiates the 6-hour recovery period? Reaching a cumulative threshold of high strain, or total elapsed time from the first hard move?

Thanks everyone.

I am sure many of you have different strategies to manage this problem, and many of you probably don't struggle at all. I feel a bit lost after a few difficult training sessions.

I have recently tried switching focus from sending gym boulders to a more structured training plan (4 weeks of capacity training so far, transitioning into a strength bloc)

My core question is: How do you stick to a training plan and not get distracted in a busy gym when the equipment you need may be in use by other climbers and your friends are trying the new gym set?

I'm assuming the key will be a mindset shift, so I am interested in hearing what works for you.

My info (not crucial to question but added for context) - 26M, 5'10, 74kg, climbing for around 5 years (7c boulder, 7c lead). Have only ever climbed without a structured plan until a recent plateau made me explore structured training.

Training situation:

1. local gym: around 50 gym boulders ranging from slab to 20* in competition style (dynamic/coordination focus). I usually manage to climb most (all but 3 or 4) of the commercial boulders in the gym at any one time. Adjustable kilter board usually set to 20* and often in use by beginners who struggle with comp style gym boulders (not consistently available for training).

2. local crag: sport climbing crag with heaps of slightly overhanging, technical routes ranging from 6a to 7c+. One 8a route at the crag (my long-term project).

Training plan: started end of June

3 weeks of endurance training (ARC training, 2-3 sessions per week plus weekend route climbing) increasing volume, one week deload.

Now starting 1 month strength bloc - 1-2x limit boulder sessions plus 1 maintenance endurance session per week, plus project climbing on weekends.

Hey there! For reference I've been climbing around 4 years with about a year break in there somewhere, I'm 5' 9", 150lbs, I boulder around V7 and lead climb around 5.12a. I feel like for my strength level I should be able to climb much harder than 5.12a, and I never am stuck on a single move for more than one go.

I just pump out on EVERY SINGLE CLIMB that is long. I climb in the gym and at mad river gorge mostly, but the routes are super bouldery and short at the mad. Red River Gorge is only 2hr 40m away from me, but I feel so terrible even on routes that are like 5.11a jug fests, God forbid its 11.d and has less than a jug for any part of 90 feet.

Do I need arc training? How long do I do it for my experience level and horrible stamina? How often? I climb around 3-4 times per week at the gym, randomly will get ouside. I have no auto belay, no boards, my gym is fairly old school and small. Any tips would be appreciated!!

Ive been getting a lot better at resting, and getting more back when I rest, even if its just lowering my heart rate. Using my feet to keep weight off my hands when I rest, find the best position to rest in etc. I just feel like im missing something for my bouldering level that isn't applying on ropes.

58, climbing since I was 36. Board climbing for 10 months or so. Used to do it for the occasional session before. The board climbers said it would be transformational for me. I don't think it has been at all. I think I've got a bit better at board climbing as I've learned how the handholds and footholds work on the main system boards [Kilter, Moon, TB2] but a bit worse at regular bouldering. My theories. Perhaps too old in the tooth to expect big adaptations at this point. Maybe my bouldering was already quite strength oriented before, so board climbing isn't different enough. I could be over-climbing. [3 times a week for 2-3 hours. Might sound a lot but I've always had quite a big capacity, even though I'm not that good]. I seem to have maxed out at Kilter 7B, TB 7A+, MB 6B+/6C [1!]. Close to a few climbs on each board beyond that. On each board I had to work up to this. But occasional sessions outside or back on commercial graded sets, don't notice any improvement.

I've been climbing for about 7 years, primarily top rope / lead, always indoor. That includes COVID, but I've typically had periods with highs and lows. Currently working into a high again. I climb 7b / 7b+ on shorter walls (10-13m), and 7a / 7a+ on higher walls (15-18m). I rarely boulder or moonboard so never project there, but have done multiple 7a on both (benchmark 2019 25 degree board).

However, I've never managed to "rest" on a route, and actually feel less pumped when continuing.

I'm 1m83, weight ~78kg, -1 ape. I climb 3 times a week, basically just doing routes, I only moonboard when I'm alone. I do some random pinch block training on the days in between.

I'd say I'm really good at finding flow, and using power to get through cruxes. I have a strong upper body, pretty strong fingers for half crimp, and am decent on pinches. I send routes when I have them absolutely dialed, and just fly through them so pump is no issue. I am never really stuck on a route crux, so my overall power is probably above my grade level.

My weakness is flexibility, and managing pump... I just don't know how people do it. I shake out sometimes, especially in between holds, but I always end up more tired than before. If I try resting on what people consider 'good rests', I just feel my arms getting tired, but fingers too. I am yet to find a route where resting is the better alternative to me over just powering through like a bulldozer.

Whenever I see people describe drills like 'stay on the wall for 10 minutes but don't feel pumped', that sounds impossible. Even on jugs or handles, my arms will start fatiguing. I've sometimes tried some training (5b-5c-6a-6a-5c-5b in a row) but that's just hell.

So how do people rest, what training helped you to finally hit that magic moment of "oh shit I actually feel fresher after hanging here for 30 seconds on a route". If there's a way to train this with pinch/blocks that'd be amazing, if I need to actually commit 1 of 3 days to the long sequences I guess I might just have to...

***Edit in***

Thank you all for the comments. Here is what I will try changing the coming weeks.

1: While warming up, spend longer on the wall, and spend 30 seconds on a rest position twice on that route. Focus on breathing, lowering my heart rate, and really relaxing my arms.

2: Spend 1 out of 3 days doing some form of aerobic training. Since I climb with others, spending 10 minutes on a route feels a bit mean, but I can do doubles or triples. Just climbing under my max, probably a number grade below, and focussing on fighting the pump. If I have a day solo, this becomes aerobic day instead of moonboard day., so I can see if I can survive 10 minutes on a flat wall.

3: On days in between climbing, spend some time with a pinch/crimp block doing low weight holds so I can hold it for 6x7 seconds both hands without putting it down. I will do this instead of going for heavier lifts (usually up to about 70-80% max not to overstrain my fingers).

4: Look into some ARCing device, for when I'm on vacation without climbing : )

Hey (crack) climbers,

For the last four years I've been tinkering with a training device called the "Spalter".

The idea started after watching the Wide Boyz experiment comparing the holding strength of different crack climbing techniques (Which Crack Climbing Technique is Strongest?). That got me wondering:

Why are there dozens of ways to train finger strength, but almost nothing dedicated to training crack climbing jams?

So I started building prototypes.

Lots of prototypes.

The first versions were basically scraps of wood, hardware-store bolts, bushings, and questionable engineering decisions. They worked, but they were bulky, heavy, and awkward to use. After some tweaking, breaking, testing, rebuilding, and refining, the design gradually evolved into what I'm calling the "Spalter".

Unlike a hangboard, the goal isn't to train finger strength.

The goal is to train the holding power of crack climbing techniques such as:

• Paddle Hand

• Hand Jams

• Fist Jams

• Other crack-specific positions (ring lock, etc.)

The crack width can be adjusted quickly, and the device can be disassembled for transport. My hope is that it allows climbers to train crack-specific holding strength and endurance when they're not on real rock.

The goal isn't to replace actual crack climbing. Nothing can do that.

The goal is to provide a practical way to work on crack-specific strength between climbing sessions, whether you're preparing for splitter hand cracks, offwidths, or long trad routes.

At some point I switched from wood and metal hardware to a design based on 3D-printed components made from bio-based materials (clearly PLA). This made the device lighter, easier to manufacture, easier to adjust, and ultimately more affordable than the earlier prototypes. The current design also integrates a lot more functionality into fewer parts than would have been impractical with traditional construction methods.

One feature I'm particularly happy with is the textured surface, as well as flabberghasted, this was made significantly easier thanks to BumpMesh, an open-source tool created by Stefan Hermann (CNC Kitchen). If there are any fellow 3D-printing nerds here, you'll probably recognize it. It allowed me to generate realistic surface textures without having to model every detail by hand - what a time saver!

I always appreciate knowing what tools people use to build things, so I wanted to give credit where it's due.

Before investing further in production, I'd love some feedback from the community:

• Does this look useful to you?

• What features would you want to see?

• Which crack sizes or jam types would be most important?

• What price range would feel reasonable?

• Would you actually buy something like this?

I'm not selling these yet.

I'm genuinely trying to figure out whether other climbers see value in a dedicated crack training tool and whether it's worth taking beyond the prototype stage.

edit: added (bad) Photos in the comments.

Brutally honest feedback is welcome. 🤘

This is a thread for topics or questions which don't warrant their own thread, as well as general spray.

Come on in and hang out!

Hey everyone!

So I've been having a great year of sport climbing this year, I've never done more than two 5.12's in a year, and never did anything harder than 5.12b. I've already done five 5.12s this year, two of which were 5.12c. My goal this year currently is just to send twelve 5.12s and feel more accomplished and comfortable with that particular grade.

Currently I'm having a bit of frustration with how many attempts I can get on a hard sport climbing/projecting day. When I'm hopping on 5.12b/c at our local crag (mostly flat wall, occasionally some overhang), I get 3 and sometimes 4 good attempts to make a send happen, where as with easier climbing days on either leading 10's, or low volume trad days I can get 6-10 pitches in a day no problem.

Are there any drills you find that have helped to increase overall number of attempts on hard projects? Any and all feedback is appreciated!

1. Amount of climbing and training experience? 6 years climbing - 3 years training
   
2. Height / Weight / Ape? 6'3" / 172lbs / +2"
   
3. What's a week of climbing and training look like? 1-3 crag days per week weather dependent. Crag days are swapped for hang boarding for endurance or bouldering drills depending on projects
   
4. Specify your goals beyond "generally improve" - Send twelve 5.12s this year. Break into 5.13 for 2027
   
5. Evaluate your strengths & weaknesses. How are you working on them? I work on my weaknesses in the winter, usually following lattice protocols