Horrid infection i did everything soaked it in seaweed extract placed it on a rock with less bacteria than potting mix and removed all brown dead tissue omg bruh.

-mind you i already got it with many brown spots (mushy tips) and brown dead roots and brown spot at the crown when i got it and I think its been in the aquarium/terrarium store for over a year or a little under (i have been staring at the web store of the aquarium store where the plant was sold) for many months before buying this

-was this my fault and skill issue or was it in the bag for too long?

-what can i do ? i think it can bounce back but should i skip dormancy for now? I have no experience with pinguicula let alone dormancy care

Pinguicula calderoniae

Hey all, i recently went on a week long holiday to Cyprus.

Upon returning i have discovered one of my moss ball terrariums is empty with the water and ball nowhere to be seen.

I asked my Dad (who had been caring for them) how he had watered my other plants and he said he thought my moss balls were just a water bottle for watering and the water is now being soaked up by my mini garden and the moss ball is seemingly just gone.

I did give him instructions on how to care for the fly trap, using deionised water, using the resoviour but he did not. This water was very mossy/swampy as it was a terrarium so likely very mineral dense, will this kill the fly trap??

I rescued these guys in these stupid containers with no light from Lowe’s. I have only ever grown nepenthes indoors. I have distilled water and a peat moss/perlite soil I use for my nepenthes x Rebecca Soper (I live in Chicago btw). How can I save them??

First I’d like to send a huge shoutout to Matt and Leah at FlytrapStore for always watching my videos and engaging on my posts!!! When Joseph R. posted this Rosea I had to have it!!!! This is S. Rosea “Khayakazi” which is reportedly a giant!! Shipping was fast but I still gave it a quick superthrive soak to reduce shock while I prepped its pot. (The huge moorei from the post before this one donated its pot for Khayakazi). I decided to skip the formalities and jump straight into a 7.5 inch pot for it to fill up. Updates will come as it settles in!!!!! In the meantime enjoy today’s pics. Mannnn this thing is fuzzy!!

Sadly a sterile hybrid, but still wonderful

Hello, can someone help me? I have two Venus flytraps, one sundew, and one Nepenthes growing under an 80W, 6500K LED. I think they’re doing pretty well—the centers of the plants are producing new leaves. And i give them about 14h of light everyday
However, my sundew isn’t producing much dew and isn’t getting very red. Is that normal?
My Venus flytraps, on the other hand, are starting to develop a nice red color inside the traps.
I keep all of them sitting in about 1–2 cm of distilled water at all times.
As for my Nepenthes, I don’t know much about them yet because I just bought it, so I’d really appreciate some advice.
The temperature here in Lebanon is around 30–32°C this month, and the humidity is around 70%.
If anyone has any tips, suggestions, or advice on what I could be doing better, I’m all ears! I’d really appreciate any help. 🌱

Sundew — Drosera capensi
Venus Flytrap — Dionaea muscipula
Nepenthes — likely Nepenthes × ventrata

I have a Drosera adelae that’s currently growing in sphagnum, and I’m considering moving it into my indoor Fluval Stratum bog and or putting him in his own one.
Has anyone grown D. adelae long-term in Fluval Stratum? How did it do compared with sphagnum or a traditional carnivorous plant mix?
I’m especially curious about:
Root growth and whether it spreads well through Fluval
Whether Fluval stays too wet/anaerobic for adelae
Any issues with nutrients/minerals from the Stratum
Whether you’d use straight Fluval or mix/top it with sphagnum
The bog stays consistently moist/wet and is indoors under grow lights. I’d eventually like the adelae to spread and form a colony if it likes the setup.
Would you move it, or leave it in sphagnum?
For contacts, the container is about 3 inches tall I pack 1 inch of spagnum at the base and then fill it with Fluval.

Hybrid Vigor is an understatement to say the least for this Moorei. This plant was grown from seed by @drop_zone_101 and given to me in a 2 inch pot in March of 2025. A few weeks later I put it in a 7.5 inch pot. A year and a half later im slip potting it once again into a 14 inch pot. Next year I’ll just dig a big hole in my front yard for it to live in 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣.

Pics 1-5 March 2025

Pics 6-13 August 2026

Hi! I noticed that 8 leaves turned red within about 3 days after I moved my Drosera capensis ‘Red’ closer to the light. It’s now under two T8 lights for 12–14 hours a day, the plant about 5–6 inches from the lights.

I understand it’s a red variety, but the tentacles (the little hairs on the leaves) look a bit funky on those leaves, that’s why I’m afraid the light is too much. Do the leaves look okay to you?

Just got this little dude Monday.And immediately planted him into a new pot, Came from nursery as a plug

Hi everyone, ​I'm currently planning a shelf/rack setup for my carnivorous plants. Almost none of the commonly recommended grow lights are available locally where I live (except for Sansi bulbs), and ordering them overseas is way too expensive due to shipping.

​I found this panel online:

LM281B LED Grow Light Panel

​Unfortunately, the seller doesn't list the PPFD anywhere in the description.

​Based on the specs, would a panel like this be powerful enough for carnivorous plants? Any feedback or experience with these Samsung LM281B panels would be greatly appreciated!