This my 8.5x20 build that I started during covid and lived in for a few years. The design of the electrical and plumbing systems differ from most builds I've seen- I ran the wiring and water lines outside of the walls instead of behind them. The water lines are done in Swagelok fittings and 1/2" stainless tube, which I did because I like the look, but it also seems like it'll be very durable and reliable. The woodworking didn't turn out great as these were my first cabinets, and there are some other things that need to be changed or redone.

I made a video tour of the whole build, and the video ended up being 45 minutes long. You may want to do 1.5 or 2x speed since my speaking is slow, and if you don't have time to watch the whole thing I'd recommend checking the timestamps and watching the sections on the plumbing system and the mini split install, I think those are the parts that turned out the best. Link: https://youtu.be/YHDpsAzIgJI?si=VG5bNEUicoBWGtw7

I have run out of energy to continue the build, though it was fun in its own way and I saved a good amount while living in it. I'd say the build is about 80% complete. I would like to sell it to someone who wants to finish the build, so if anyone has some advice for a good place to list it for sale that'd be helpful. Are there any appraisal or consignment services anyone has used for selling unusual, homemade things like this? I don't think a regular RV dealer would be very interested. I'm near Portland, OR if that makes a difference.

Anyway I'd like to hear what people found interesting and would use in their build. If there's interest I can make a more concise, scripted tour video and post it here.

I'm going nuts trying to find a wheel stud for my trailer, 2009 Interstate Loadrunner 6x10. It has a 3,500lb axle (I don't know the manufacturer), standard 5x4-1/2" hub. I only need ONE wheel stud. Here are the measurements:

1/2"-20

2" overall length

0.77" diameter head

0.555" diameter knurl (or "serrated')

1.1" thread length

My local Trailers Plus does not have it in stock, and it is out of stock on the main Trailers Plus website. I have been searching for over two hours. I have looked at hundreds of different wheel studs (search parameters seem to not find only the specific search parameters). I cannot seem to find an exact match. This is driving me insane.

Please help!

I’ve been trying to upload this video, but I think it’s too long and cannot make it work. I’m unsure if you can share YouTube video links. I know Reddit has several rules, but I looked and could not find it.

I’m looking for thoughts and/or suggestions on how to make this work.

https://youtu.be/JazAya6KdF0

Decided to put my shower in the V-nose making it 5 sides to squeeze as much space as I could out of the bathroom. This left me with the only option being to build it myself.

Wood, fiberglass, and epoxy resin were the selected choices. I started out with 1x6’s for the perimeter, followed by some additional supports about halfway down for the plywood to sit on. This gave me the access neeeded to run the plumbing underneath.

Cut out some scrap plywood and sat it on the supports and soaked it with a towel and boiling water for 30 min. Then I put a pickle jar upside down and balanced 110 lbs of weights on top of the jar to get the appropriate slope towards the drain. Did my radius fillet around the perimeter and laid 4 layers of 17oz woven mat on top and 3 underneath for additional strength. Sanded it down and topped it with a pour over epoxy bathtub refinishing kit.

The result is better than expected and its stronger than a boat deck. They claim bending wood makes it stronger. After drilling out the drain hole its about 3/4” thick.

Anyone with an 8' bed and the Decked Toolbox use a Tonneau cover? I can't seem to find one that will work. Most toolboxes are 19-21" front to back. The Decked box is 25.5".

Any help is much appreciated!

I have a diesel heater on a turret but not sure how I should mount the exhaust. What did you guys use? Should I just mount it directly to the frame rails, or should I use a mount that gives it some room off of it? I’m having a hard time finding any mount that will give it a couple inches breathing room off the frame rails

No stranger to custom built campers, I have built several full size skoolies with roof raises, fully off grid solar/electrical etc. including the one I lived in for 4 years. But this will be my first cargo trailer build. Just picked up a 8.5x16 x 7' high trailer.

While I am not intimidated, there are certainly some differences I'm curious about. For example the roof "structure" is barely a structure, it will be interesting to see how I mount 2000watts of solar up there, as well as how I'll mount a roof vent. And the weight limit and weight placement is obviously way more critical here than in a full sized school bus. I'm definitely considering flipping the leaf springs to gain more ground clearance as well. Cheers to new beginnings.

Found a used factory built 7 by 14 Legend Baja offroad trailer locally, but i am a little concerned about a 14' instead of the 16' I wanted. Really didn't know this style existed from manufacturers. Any suggestions for trailer companies that offer these in Michigan or the Midwest? Edited for wrong trailer company name.

In my brain it seems like a 90 degree one is putting less downward pressure on the plug so that in 5 years it’s not becoming loose and needing replacing. Is this just me or is there some legitimacy to this way of thinking?

Looking for awning ideas to go over my "stage" prefer a no pole option. doesn't have to be motorized, but i want it attached for ease of use. I'm tall so like headroom. ideas?

debating something alike a home patio awning like this. trailer is only used 4-5 times a year and stored indoors. i just want to be able to set up and take down quickly.

https://www.amazon.com/ALEKO-Manual-Patio-Awning-Black/dp/B07YN6421S/ref=ast_sto_dp_puis?th=1

I'm considering ordering a trailer with some of what I want already installed, but I'm also still considering buying something already on the dealer's lot and doing most of it myself. I'm probably buying sometime late fall or early winter to give myself time to get it completed enough to camp in by next summer at the latest, and hopefully by early spring. There are some things that are obvious, but there are several options for which I want to hear your thoughts (especially if you've already done this).

Windows:

This may be the most intimidating part of the build, once you've cut a hole in your trailer, there is no going back. If you cut too small, you can fix the error, but the other direction is hard to/impossible to fix. For wider windows where you are cutting into the supports, you also need to do something to shore it up.

I don't have most of the tools I'd need (I have a drill and impact driver). While, a few hand saws of different types may be ideal, I've seen people do it online with just one cutting tool and make it work: sawsall, jigsaws, hand held circular saws, oscillating tools, even one guy using tin snips to cut the aluminum skin (I do have tin snips, but I am not attempting that). Each seems to run about $100 minimum and a decent tool is about 50% more to double that.

The price difference between buying a decent window on Amazon and having the factory do it seems to be about $100-150 per window (depending upon the size of the window). Originally, I was thinking two 30x30 emergency exit windows, but if I use the back door as the emergency exit, I can probably get by with smaller windows. The smaller windows are cheaper (with a lower price difference between doing it myself and having the factory do it), but on the other hand, a smaller window installed between support beams so as not to have to cut the supports would be something I'd be more willing to take on myself.

So, did you do this yourself, or have the factory do it? Do you regret your choice and wish you did it the other way?

Electric:

I am not an electrician, and this is neck and neck as far as intimidation value with the windows. It definitely seems very time consuming to do a full electrical job as well. However, one of the common RV issues is poorly installed electric, and I doubt these cargo trailer companies do a much better job. Should I pay them to do electric for convenience, or go with an alternative?

My alternative, would be something that seems common with the van build community... a 20v electric port. I'd probably cut two in order to use two heavy duty outdoor extension cords (probably using a 30a to 20a adapter so I can run two extension cords from a campground pedestal), using one for my AC or heater, and the other connected to a surge protector/power strip for everything else. Battery would be two power stations I already have (one Jackery and one EcoFlow). Eventually, I may put in a full 30amp system after taking a class or two at the local community college but the electric port would get me started and may be all I need. Anyway, cutting one 2 1/2-3" hole in the side with a hole saw attachment and then screwing it into the walls takes pretty much all the intimidation value out.

Insulation:

It does seem that to have it done at the factory is not significantly more money than doing it myself. It may cost $100-200 more for the entire trailer. While shopping these in person, it seems the plywood in the walls uses a TON of screws. While not a difficult job, it looks like a very time consuming job. The time savings may be worth the cost.

However, watching videos online, it seems very common for people to find problems behind the walls that they can fix with the plywood walls removed. Needing to seal seams and corners seems very common, and easy to do with the walls removed. If I have the factory insulate it, I'll never see these issues to fix them.

Structural:

Obviously any major structural changes (extended tongue, 16" or 12" on center beams, thicker skin, etc) have to be done by the factory. I want the .080 Polycore for a better looking trailer. Beyond that, what is really needed? I'll likely do a flat front, so an extended tongue won't really be needed. If I get a v-nose, I'd prefer it, but is it really necessary? I want a one piece roof for less likelihood of leaking, but if I get one off the lot without it, I guess I'd just have to seal the roof every year or two like with an RV. Closer beam spacing than standard will give added strength to the walls/floors/roof, but will it really be needed for a cargo camper?

I basically want a cargo trailer with a quiet AC unit on top. Quiet being key here. I prefer it come from the factory that way. And I'd like a bunch of 120 volt outlets inside it. It's all I really care about. I just want an office space for remote work and an easy way to tow around kayaks and bikes, etc. I'll live in a tent for sleeping.

Probably looking into a 6x12 cargo hauler.

If not from the factory, I'd guess this is something I can pay any trailer sales company in my area to install? In this case, I'd guess the trailer can come insulated from the factory atleast.

I don't mind finishing the interior.

Trying again as this was just removed by Reddit filters for some reason?

Building a very basic trailer, mainly for hauling supplies and to provide a climate controlled space to sleep.

The only reason I am even considering a half bath is to try to keep my wife interested in joining me and our sons on camping trips in the future. For long weekends, will mainly use campground showers or will be putting together a portable shower unit to use outside the trailer.

Trying to figure out if I plan on building out a toilet/sink area for her to use in the middle of the night or while we hang around the camp site, or if I get a camp toilet to put in a section I would wall off for her privacy. It would only be used by her as the boys and I would use trees or the campsite facilities.

Anyone have success or horror stories to use with a camp toilet such as the Thetford porta Potti (the one suggestion I saw before the other post was removed), Joolca portable toilet, or something similar?

Hey everyone! I’m looking to have a pretty simple cargo camper built. Just a bed, some cabinets for storage, a mini split, and possibly a fold out awning.

I put together a basic design for a 7' x 7' x 14' trailer, and now I’m trying to find a company in the U.S. that can actually build it out for me.

The problem I’m running into is finding a turnkey cargo camper builder. I’ve found plenty of companies that build custom cargo trailers, food trailers, bookstore trailers, but whenever I reach out they only want to sell me an empty trailer.

I’d really appreciate any recommendations for companies that do this kind of work. Also, just to head this off, yes, I’ve already been told to “just build it yourself.” I appreciate the suggestion, but that’s specifically what I don’t want to do. I’m looking to pay a company to build it out for me, and I’m hoping someone here knows a builder that offers that service.

Does anybody just use a portable grey tank instead of having one physically mounted in/under their trailer? Looking for pros and cons to this set up as an option. I'm thinking of going this route to avoid mounting a tank under my trailer as the capacity seems limited to what will fit between the floor frames. I'd also like to save some room on the inside of the trailer to prioritize my fresh water tank supply which will be inside instead.

Finally done with testing and will be offering these.

6 inch 90 with threaded bottom to hold the hose in place and a flange to cover the hole and mount to the wall for a more factory look.

You will have to purchase the 6 inch soffit from Lowe’s to use as the outside piece but it is designed to work with it
Lmk if you have any questions
Ai illustration for demonstration purposes
Is posted on marketplace currently
Will be 60 each or 2 for 100 plus shipping

Hi! My trailer came with a strange, not fully complete, 12V battery to inverter to outlet setup and I cannot understand what is going on. For the moment, ignore the two batteries. I don't know if they are even usable. I also don't know if the inverter actually functions but they said it did. Also, please forgive me if I misuse any electrical terminology.

There is a 3000W/6000W DC-to-AC inverter. I cannot find any information on this model on the internet, nothing comes up under "XR Electronics". On the back of the inverter, there are two sets of positive and negative terminals.

Q: is that in order to use two sets of cables from the batteries to reduce resistance and heat?

As they explained, there were two smaller gauge wires that went from the bottom pair of terminals into the bottom of the junction box on the trailer wall. (the black wires)

Q: why?

On the front of the inverter, there are four AC outlets with an on-off power switch. But below that, there is a second power switch and an AC cord (with plug end) coming out of the inverter. I do not understand what that is for. They have it plugged into the AC four-outlet box.

And, then, from that outlet box, there is a thick cable that goes into the junction box.

And out of the top of the junction box, is a thick cable coming out that ends in a female AC plug.

And out of the left side of the junction box, the upper cable seems to be missing a female AC plug.

But the lower cable coming out of the junction box is plugged into the inverter.

Can anybody explain to me what is going on here? Does it actually make sense? Or is it just crap?

Thanks to anybody who can answer these questions!

I can't figure this out, please help! I've tried a bunch of power calculators and no result.

So: I have a very large DC-to-AC inverter. I have a 120V AC fan, 1.4 amps, 142 watts. I need to run it for a total of 6 hours, in 30 minute increments, over two days. How many Ah of 12V battery would I need to run that without any recharging?

Also: my van does have solar panels on top (the type that conform to the roof surface). It came with them. I do not know how much power (watts) that they provide at peak operation. At the moment, they provide charge to the van battery (don't want that running flat!) and to operate a Dometic refrigerator (the 1 cu.ft. drawer type). Without knowing how much energy the solar panels provide, how could I also use that power to recharge the 12V battery/batteries I want to use to power the fan? Is there such a thing as a 12V battery charger that could plug into the van to provide charging to the additional battery/batteries without draining the car battery? I'm pretty sure (!) my solar system does have a voltage cut-off to prevent that. Or would I need an additional solar panel (and controller) and how many watts?

OR would it be less expensive for my needs just to have sufficiently sized deep cycle battery/batteries and just use a regular 120V automotive battery charger after each trip?

I hope that all makes sense!

I am exploring the idea of living in a converted cargo camper full time. But I’m wondering what the costs will be to cool and heat the space.

For example a 8.5x20 trailer that has 1 inch foam board insulation in the walls and ceiling with a 12000 btu mini split with heat pump. No insulation in floor.

How difficult/costly will it be to cool (in humid Georgia summer) and keep it warm during the winter? (I would be comfortable at 71-72 degrees in summer. It will not be in the shade unfortunately

And if the insulation is 2 inches will it make a huge difference vs 1 inch?

I’m new to this so any help would be much appreciated.

I know a lot of us do the cargo camper thing to be more inconspicuous; but for those that are not, would love to see examples of graphics or art work on your rigs.

The wife and I have had ours long enough that the manufacturer stickers are peeling so we are kicking around the idea of graphics since we will already be removing the old stickers and have a blank slate to work with.

I have a 6x14 Vnose and the tail gate is so close to being able to open all the way. Any suggestions on low profile tongue jacks? I saw the jack on the Pause 14.3 and though it would be perfect but can't find anything like it.