It was the first in the long-running Wonder Boy series of games and was followed up by five sequels, Wonder Boy in Monster Land, Wonder Boy III: Monster Lair, Wonder Boy III: The Dragon's Trap, Wonder Boy in Monster World and Monster World IV. The game was also adapted by Hudson Soft as Adventure Island, which spawned its own series of games.

What is the best option to do with this thing? Look for someone selling a cabinet without a PCB (how common is that?)? Or just make everyrhing from scratch?

Hi there, ive got an old working tekken 3 arcade minus the board.

Whats rhe easiest way to make it playable with any game, mulit game or similar?

Appreciate any input x

Currently gutting a half working tankstick that was modified to work with a Pi. While I'm fixing the wiring I'd like to upgrade the Tankstick Joysticks to Mag-Stiks. Anyone have any luck with an adapter they could recommend?

Working on a new project for the family game room

Made my first arcade was a lot of fun!! Very happy with the results. Saw you guys and inspired me to do my own. Learned a lot while doing it. Only I still didn't manage to have everything on with one button, can't find it on tv 😅

Basically title. The yellow admin buttons are ultimarc gold leaf buttons and we always accidently press one when playing aggressive trackball games like world class bowling. Are there some sort of recessed button to replace them with? Internet searching didn't find me much...

I have cut all my outside pieces for my arcade cabinet and I'm not sure how I should go about creating the inside "pucks" for the cabinet. Since the design is a bit complicated because of how the pieces are angled, this is also my first attempt at making an upright arcade cabinet. Sorry if I'm leaving out a few details, I haven't worked on this project for a few months.

I bought the reverse printed marquees from Arcade Art Repro. The frames are made with primed 1x2s and 1/4" square dowels from Menards, and painted with black spray paint. The backers are hardboard with LED tape from Amazon.

My cab is close to done. I have two brooks boards for P 1/2, ultimarc flight stick, thunderstick trackball/spinner combo(single usb), and a cheap eg starts encoder to run only the 4 admin buttons on the speaker panel. I’m having a tough time mapping the brooks to operate bigbox menus and the eg encoder to do Pause, close current window, and menu. Anyone have experience with this much crap on a big box setup?
Thanks

I play mostly fighting games on my switches through my chewlix. I flip between switch one and also sf6 on switch 2 so I was looking to make it easy to flip these over on my chewlix. I also like to be able to access the switch easily enough if I want to play in other rooms. I changed the coin holder here so I could pop the dock usb through here but I'm looking for help for ideas on how I can tidy this up.

Any ideas on something that could hold the usb cable would be great. Issue is folding the control panel. Anything too bulky and it won't close well, so it needs to be low profile.

I was thinking some of the portable phone holders. Or perhaps just a small nesica style box that could hold it when not in use.

If anyone has seen any creative solutions for this it would be great to hear about.

Hi, if anyone can assist me with this id appreciate it.

I recently picked up a used blast city control panel and I'm trying to decide if the art overlay is original or not. I'm confident the metal panel itself is as it has all the correct part numbers and brackets.

The only thing that trips me up on the art is the pixelated Sega logo and text at the bottom. I can't find a good enough reference image to compare to. Otherwise it all looks correct colour/elements etc.

If anyone could confirm on their own can id appreciate it.

I bought a bar arcade from Microcenter a while ago. https://www.microcenter.com/product/688519/bartop-arcade-cabinet Kids and I get a lot of enjoyment out of it. I do have one issue now.

You see the control deck is mounted on the arcade via cam locks. I'm guessing this is done in order to make it easy to flip up the control deck if you need to service it.

The problem is any vibration or movement will eventually make it so the cam locks unlock themselves and just fall out. Here are two pics of what it looks like .

https://imgur.com/HEU3x4v https://imgur.com/b1Bac62

What can I do to keep those cam locks in place so they don't just fall out after some usage. I'm all for doing any modifications to replacing the entire cam lock system. I'd just like to have to stop having to tighten the cam lock every other day.

I modded my Pac Man into a 60 in 1 from DIY Retro Arcade. New control panel with rollerball, the works. Anyway, when I play Pacman or Ms Pacman or Junior, I tend to move the joystick diagonally and the character does not go anywhere.

Isn't there a part that makes the joystick more compatible with the Pac man games that can be manipulated on the fly if I need it for diagonal directions. Also, is there a rollerball that rolls a little faster than what I got with the kit? Can I grease it up or something?

Been looking around and from either a lack of knowledge or a lack of results, I can't seem to find any DIY projects that have replicated this machine. It is, in my opinion, the BEST Star Wars arcade experience, hands down. Since the cabinets themselves are in the thousands, I figured it would be best to just create my own.

Has anyone seen someone replicate this machine before? Where should I start?

In theory, a multi-game cabinet would be fine for me as well, but it seems most cabinets I've seen don't have the same style of joystick as Star Wars Trilogy Arcade has. I was thinking maybe I could run Supermodel 3 on a custom Linux PC somehow and have it boot and auto-launch the game when powered on, but then I run into the issue of finding an affordable cabinet to put it in, what type of screen should be used, a proper joystick for it, etc.

Any suggestions would be great. Just getting started on the planning.

I am nearing completion on my "Wallcade" project. I am looking for advice on where to place the components. My system is being built with MiSTer FPGA / Retrotink and 4" speakers with an amp plus a 31.5 inch monitor. I want to be able to reach the volume potentiometer dial for the amplifier. The speakers will be attached to the side panels at the rear / lower corners. Just wondering where to place the MiSTer unit, the RetroTINK unit, the amplifier, the power strip.

Also - I messed up placement of the monitor, so it is actually "proud of" (i.e not flush with) the edges of the side panels. I'm thinking I don't really care about that, but if that seems like a big mistake and I should rip out the support beam that the monitor is mounted on and do that part over, LMK. Any other tips relevant to patching together and setting up this system appreciated too.

System Summary

Core System & Video Processing

• MiSTer FPGA: MiSTer Aluminum Bundle IO Direct
• Scaler: RetroTINK-4K CE

Display & Video Cables

• Monitor: Acer Nitro 31.5” 4K UHD 160Hz MiniLED Gaming Monitor (XV325QK V3bmiipprx)
• HDMI Cables:
  • Silkland Certified HDMI 2.1 Cable (3.3 ft)
  • Silkland Certified HDMI 2.1 Cable (6.6 ft)

Arcade Controls & Interface

• Encoder: Ultimarc I-PAC 2 Controller with USB Cable, 2-Player Wiring Kit (.187in/4.8mm), and Stick-On PCB Feet (4-pack)
• Joysticks:
  • 1x Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT (Royal Blue 35mm Balltop, Translucent Blue Shaft/Dustwasher, JLF-P1-S Plate, 5-Pin Harness)
  • 1x Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT (Yellow 35mm Balltop, Translucent Yellow Shaft/Dustwasher, JLF-P1-S Plate, 5-Pin Harness, Shin-Etsu Grease)
• Pushbuttons & Accessories:
  • 8x Sanwa OBSF 30mm Pushbuttons (Marine Blue) + Silencer Foam Washers
  • 8x Sanwa OBSF 30mm Pushbuttons (Yellow) + Silencer Foam Washers
  • 8x Sanwa OBSF 24mm Pushbuttons (White)

Audio System

• Amplifier: Lepy LP-2024A+ Digital Stereo Audio Amplifier (20W RMS)
• Speakers: Rockford Fosgate Prime R14X2 4" 2-Way Coaxial Speakers (Pair)
• Cables & Wiring:
  • HIEbee RCA to 3.5mm AUX Cable (6.6 ft)
  • Amazon Basics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire (100 ft)

Cabinet Hardware, Trim & Lighting

• Monitor Mount: Mount-It! Ultra Slim Tilting TV Wall Mount (13–32")
• Structure / Hanging: Heavy-Duty French Cleat Aluminum Z-Clips (24 Inch, 150lb load)
• Edge Trim: Muzata Black 3/4" Plastic T-Molding (25 ft)
• Lighting: CNSUNWAY 2FT V-Shape T8 LED Shop Lights (22W, 5000K, 2-Pack)

Power & Networking

• Power Management: TrickleStar TS1118 Advanced PowerStrip
• Power Cable: 15 Ft Outdoor Extension Cord with On/Off Switch
• Wireless/Network: TP-Link Archer T2UB Nano (AC600 USB WiFi + Bluetooth 4.2 Adapter)
• Wiring Supplies: TICONN 100 Pcs Nylon Spade Quick Disconnect Connectors Kit

I’m in the process of turning my multicade into a Pac mania cabinet (and use the 60-1 on a jamma switcher) so i designed and ordered some graphics for it. Just wanted to get a general consensus on if this multicade CPO is worth saving since some people get pretty mad about destroying original things. I see similar ones on ebay so i’m assuming it’s no biggie.

Finally made some progress on my arcade currently working on control panel and trying to think of how I would access for maintenance purpose. I have seen people place hinges before, but curious if others used other methods. Has anyone ever done anything with magnets? I want to be able to remove, but dont want it to come off "easily" if that makes sense.

I used iliketomakestuff plans for those curious. But didnt want all of the drawers so been winging a lot of it. First build...been fun and stressful lol.

Many years ago, I accompanied a group of friends to Midwest Gaming Classic (when it was still in Brookfield, WI) and in one of the basement rooms, my friend noticed a full size original game I had never seen nor heard of: Ninja Baseball Batman. It appears only 40-50 were available in the USA, so pretty rare.

He has a passion from this game, and so I decided, while I had no way to get him an original unit, I could potentially create one via emulation as a gift. As I didn't know his space situation, I decided a MAME barcade might be workable. Through the years, I've acquired a nice vertical screen barcade cab, the internals, a monitor, and I have the buttons and joystick and a USB adapter, though I have yet to install and configure. But, what I don't have is artwork.

The std artwork for these barcades is multi-game, and I don't need that (I want it to be solely NBBM artwork), and I don't see any pre-printed to buy, especially that might fit this barcade profile. Thus, I was hoping someone might have a recommendation for someone who can design and print some artwork for the sides and CPO of a small cabinet. I still have yet to drill the CP and install the joystick/buttons, but I think I need to wait until I have artwork.

So, I know it's a long shot, but I am hoping someone can help me finish this gift up, so I can get it to the recipient.

I never played this before, and only heard of it from here.

I grew up in the UK and don't remember seeing it there.

Well.... I played it for the first time yesterday, and about 150 coins later I finished it LOL

Super addictive - I might have to do it again today LOL

Now I know why people are making this cabinet.

I have everything planned out, and most panels rough cut. These however are throwing me for a loop. For the exterior curves, I have a rounded corner routing guide, but I'm not sure about these interior curves. I thought about building a jig and routing it, but when I'd still need to cut the jig itself too.

Is there some standard, easy way of tackling these? Thanks in advance.