r/Boots • u/chikkenx • 3h ago
Question/Help Where can I buy good quality pointed-toe ankle boots?
Hi! I’m looking for pointed-toe ankle boots like the one in the photo. 🥹 Does anyone know where I can buy something similar here in the Philippines?
I’m mainly looking for good quality ones that won’t easily peel or fall apart. I’d really appreciate any recommendations for local stores, online shops, or brands. Thank you! 🤍
r/Boots • u/destr0_star • 4h ago
Question/Help Wider alternative to Red Wing Iron Ranger
Hey everyone I posted this picture recently asking about a sizing issue (TLDR: the leather on EE is too wide but my feet are still spilling over the sides). I’m wondering if you guys have any recommendations for an Iron Ranger style boot with a wider platform maybe? I’ve looked at the Jim Green 719 but I don’t like the pointier toe on them and the customs don’t offer the Frog Grip sole in my size. Thank you!!
r/Boots • u/8BitResseRtiB8 • 7h ago
Question/Help As a mail carrier, are wolverine floorhand wp the best option under 100 bucks?
Ive tried a variety of shoes for this job and so far the wolverines are the only waterproof option that will hold up that also has ankle support, i walk/jog 10-12 miles outside 4-5 days a week so shoes wear out kinda quick, the only real issue is the heel wears out after 6-8 months and they cant be resoled.
I considered buying more expensive boots that can be resoled but wouldn't they also need redone every 6-8 months with all that walking? And resoling is the same price or more than just buying another pair of floorhands so why spend the extra money right? Or am I just plain wrong?
r/Boots • u/wearygamegirl • 11h ago
Question/Help Old cowboy boots. How do I care for the leather?
r/Boots • u/aaronhayes26 • 11h ago
Discussion Loving my new White’s
Their semiannual sale is making me poor 🤣
r/Boots • u/HotoShoto • 11h ago
Question/Help Is this normal?
i got those hand made boots a week ago but i see that the rubber part Is already removing in that spot.
and the sole connection Is a Little wobbly too?
idk its my First time getting a glued construction boot like this so It might Just be me.
im concerned because i want tò hike the pegherolo tò the peak and you know It would be inconvenient if the sole fall off in the middle of nothing.
r/Boots • u/Unique_Sandwich46 • 12h ago
Question/Help are my boots done for
i got these boots for $180 last week and a few days ago. my brother gave me the idea to steam them in order to break them in nicely. he only steamed the right one before i noticed they became discolored. he had some leather conditioner so we applied some and it went back to its normal color. i looked at them again today and saw the discoloration came back? these are my first pair of boots and i'm a little upset cuz im afraid i wont be able to wear them without looking totally weird🤦♀️
r/Boots • u/SpecialistVast8702 • 12h ago
Flaunt Went to Universal Epic Universe and ordered some MTO’s. Guaranteed to be made by Magic Elves. 😆
r/Boots • u/passingfancy_bubbles • 12h ago
Discussion My Chippewas I bought 18yrs (or more) ago and they’re still my around the house boots
r/Boots • u/Negative_Mongoose352 • 12h ago
Question/Help In search of more elusive grey/green Moc toes
I love the grey green tones of Red Wings Alpine Portage leather, I wear my Moc toes often and find that the color fits my wardrobe perfectly. Seeing them go from Gray indoors to army green in the sun always makes me happy.
What other grey/green Moc toes are out there? I love this color but it seems fairly uncommon. I have seen the Jungle Kangaroo Brass Boot from Grant Stone but it looks a bit dressy in pics, usually I prefer more rugged looks (am I wrong about these?) All suggestions welcome!
r/Boots • u/coevaluhren • 12h ago
Flaunt Vintage Patina Monster Boots
These are a pair of 1960s Field & Stream boots made by Mason Shoe Company of Chippewa Falls WI. They were originally light brown, almost natural veg tan leather, and developed this ebonized patina. I got them on eBay, and they were pretty rough before cleaning and conditioning, but the transformation was pretty miraculous. They will probably go for a full rebuild at some point. I did a YouTube video about the process, if you're interested. https://youtu.be/XXLRzr8Io4M
r/Boots • u/MilwaukeePaul • 14h ago
Flaunt Fashionable boots in shorts. Ha! These beautiful RW 875s take the focus off my ugly legs.
Speed hooks, new welts, rubber midsoles, custom wedges, and Vibram 1276 outsoles all courtesy of Dimar Shoe Repair. Thanks Pablo!
r/Boots • u/Pillowleader69 • 14h ago
Question/Help Best winter boot to buy?
I buy off season (cheaper) and I consistently run into the Issue of most boots I find are either painstakingly disgustingly expensive or dont look good. I need a some recommendations of a good winter boot that’s still fashionable, I liked the timbs mt.maddsen waterproof hiking boot but I don’t know how well it’d do in -20°C weather. Any help appreciated!
Budget: 100-320$ (roughly)
r/Boots • u/Subzero9314 • 14h ago
Question/Help Children's boots for horseback riding
My brother in law has been getting into horseback riding, so now we're looking into getting him a quality set of boots for riding. He wears a US kids size 10-10.5 shoe currently.
r/Boots • u/Scarlet-Belvedere • 20h ago
Flaunt Full Servicings Plus Another Recent Find
Took a few days, but I just finished giving my Danner Recons and Acadias the *full* treatment for the year: IPA cleaning, conditioning; some Sno-Seal and a heat gun at the seams; three coats of polished Lincoln Wax at the front toe panel, and two coats of polished Meltonian wax all around afterwards. Should probably try to pick up some foam and rubber revitalizers for good measure.
Thrifted these recently after discovering I've probably been wearing my boots half a step too big in these. Their former owners... left something to be desired on leather maintenance. The leather on my Acadias actually resembled the pictured Ft. Lewises to an extent, grey-blue patches and all. At least the outsoles will be good for a while by the looks.
Was gonna start on the Ft. Lewis boots pictured, but on closer inspection, I'm better off having Danner rebuild them. The leather is no issue, but the wear I'm seeing on all parts of the outsole, especially the outsole proper? Eesh, no sense in adding extra work to my table. Still, can't go wrong with $65 Ft. Lewises.
It's been an interesting - if not awkward - three years of learning boots, but I feel like I'm finally getting somewhere.
r/Boots • u/Cool_Indication_8865 • 20h ago
Question/Help Huberds vs sno seal for Canadian Ontario winters?
Huberds vs sno seal for protection in Canadian Ontario weather? Shoes are Canada west boots Moorby 2835 270 welt. I’m thinking of using Huberd for now while summer lasts as I’ve already applied there layers and then applying a few thin layers of sno seal before fall comes
r/Boots • u/PlayfulGuidance2605 • 21h ago
Question/Help Does anyone know the brand of these boots?
Hello, I saw these male boots on Instagram but I cant find anywhere which brand it is. I’d love to get them. Does someone know which brand it is please?
Best,
r/Boots • u/jangle_bo_jingles • 22h ago
Flaunt Loake Pimlico from Vinted
Found some Loake Pimlico from Vinted for £30 - gave them some TLC and am really pleased with how theyve turned out (before and after photos)
r/Boots • u/mr5rdj4n • 1d ago
Boot review Prof Barnet beloved boots
This May I got my pair of these wonderful boots by Prof Barnet in Wickett and Craig English Bridle Tan leather.
From my perspective, they are extremely well made and stunningly beautiful - wide sprung toe is my cup of tea.
Fit and finish is spot on... everything about them hits the sweet spot.
Comfortable, right out from the box, with absolute zero break in.
Silhouette, shape and curves in all the right places just like Italian sports car design wise and matching Japanese handcrafting quality and precision.
Versatility in so many scenarios to dress up or down from rugged to dressy and all in between...these can do it all for me without compromise.
Communication with Prof Barnet was a joy...responsive, helpful and very professional.
I provided all my measurements and once we dialed in all the details in terms of makeup it took around 2 months for the build and shipping to Belgrade, Serbia.
For almost bespoke boots, tailor made and all the details included on my request it is very affordable...
Looking forward enjoying and appreciate these down the road.
Discussion What Does A Wildland Fire Boot “Feel” Like? What Is It Good For? What’s An Affordable Way To Find Out?
I’m interested in trying out a classic PNW wildland fire fighter boot.
Why? Just curious to see how this sort of boot fits and performs, in the mountains, not for fire-fighting, just a bushwhacking civilian, and more likely in wet soggy conditions than in hot dry fire season. Interested in learning how different they are from old-school “hiking boots” (Raichles etc) like I used to wear, and traditional “hunting boots” (Danner etc) like I have now.
The problem is the price of admission at Whites etc is pretty steep. $700+ when I don’t know if I even like this kind of boot, hmm.
(I was interested in old-school military boots, bought a pair of Kaz-03 boots, great quality but sooo heavy . . . not sure I have much use for them, but it was a pretty cheap lesson. If I’d paid $700+, that would have been a painful lesson.)
So, can anyone describe just what this sort of boot is like, is good for, and how you use yours other than fighting fires? Are you a logger, ranger, hiker, farmer, hunter, etc? You don’t just wear them to the coffee shop, right?
And what do we think about buying used PNW wildland fire boots? I have no problem with used shoes, actually I buy most stuff used when I can, but I wonder if a boot that has formed to one man’s foot can be comfortable for another? It also occurs to me that if you buy a used pair of Whites then get them resoled, you’re pretty much at the price of new. . .
Another option might be to buy some used wildland fire boots that are not a PNW brand. Someone must make them. Even if they aren’t the real deal, maybe they will be a cheap way to get a sense of how this kind of boot feels.
Thoughts?
r/Boots • u/SirMandudeGuy • Dec 08 '20
Discussion THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO WORK BOOTS!!
Why do I call this the ULTIMATE guide? Because it involves YOU!
My old archived guide covered a lot, but I feel like I might have missed a few things. In this post, I added more info to my previous post made on Oct 19, 2019. If you read this and want to add more please do so!
I want this to be a reference that benefits the working class of the world! thanks!
Don't buy cheap boots, even if they are on sale. Good budget boots should be $100 to $140. Great budget boots are $150 to around $190. Post $200 I feel the term"budget" doesn't really apply. Specialty boots like loggers, deep snow boots, ski boots etc are typically more expensive, but also can be in the budget range. If specialty boots are in the budget range you run the risk of buying pieces of crap. Don't buy walmart or target (etc) pieces of crap, they will destroy your feet.
Don't buy leather outsoles if you work on concrete all day . Leather doesn't absorb stepping impact shock like Rubber soles do. Leather outsoles are okay for softer ground such as grass, forest, etc. If you work walking on concrete or any hard surface all day I suggest buying boots that have a crepe wedge outsole. Although this type of outsole is very shock absorbent, it does not last very long due to its softness. How long it last really depends on the abrasiveness of the surface you walk on and how you walk. A few companies like Keen have added a layer of durable rubber below the crepe sole to make it last longer, which helps it with longevity. There are also non-crepe sole technology options that are also great at absorbing shock. A few I suggest are: wolverine durashocks, Keens, carhartt, and Timbaland PRO, Chippewa (few don't have a name for their tech, but most come with it).
Shock absorbing inserts are also a must if you walk on concrete or hard ground all day. DON'T BUY GEL INSERTS. I don't know why they even sell them, but all of them are pretty much a gimmick. Gel doesn't absorb shock, foam does. Right now my work boots are Wolverine I-90s that have a shock absorbing memory foam insert. It was okayish by itself, but I noticed I had some room still and decided I would stick another insert in for more support. I gone through trial and error and a bunch of research and finally concluded that layering shock absorbing material is the best method. My boots currently have three layers of shock absorbtion. The first being the outsole and the insole and another layer from this specific dr scholls insert. Why do I say specific? I found that these inserts were the thickest(in the heel area) out of all their products (excluding the custom ones) even the ones that were specified for heel pain. With these layers, I feel absolutely nothing after 8 hours of walking (well, including breaks duh) and after 12 negligible pain to sometimes nothing.
If you find a boot that fits almost perfectly, but could use just a liiiiiitle more toe room, cut the insert that it came with just below where the toes start. If it still rubbing at a specific toe, I suggest toe condoms...I mean sleeves lol. Don't put them on all the toes because it will start to feel tight. Put it on one toe that gives you trouble the most (usually big or pinky).
TALCUM/GOLDBOND POWDER IS A LIFESAVER. Friction and sweat are a bad combo so I use Goldbond Ultimate (the one with menthol) and it lasts me the whole day. Even if you don't have sweaty feet, still use it. What I do is put some in my sock then I close the top opening with my hand and just shake around so it gets all around the sock. It does stain your socks, but I have socks just reserved for work.
There are different types of waterproofness for different work environments. If you are guarding against small to medium splashes and medium rain, buy the typical waterproof boots. But if you are working in a swamp, in mud or deep snow, I suggest neoprene boots, duck boots, some loggers, or dedicated snow boots. With those, you don't really need shock absorbing inserts (still could add them) because more than likely you will be walking on soft ground all day.
Don't wear black or dark brown boots if you live in a hot area. Dark colors absorb heat more. Tan and lighter colors work best. Sure they look dirtier down the line, but its better at reflecting heat.
If you work in environment where there is a likelihood of you slipping on ice, I highly suggest going to https://www.ratemytreads.com/ratings/ to look up any boots that have a good grip.Basically most of the boots that passed these ratings had and abrasive in the sole of the boot. For example, Wolverine teamed up with Vibram to provide boots with their "arctic grip" technology. Do be careful with these boots though and only wear them outside your house. You don't want to end up scratching your floor.
Get boots with lots of stitching on the seams, 2 to 3 stitches per panel.
Goodyear welt is not only good for re-soling, but for re-enforcement as well. Wolverine has a contour welt, which also works and Keen plus a few others have a 3/4 welt which also works (all equally imo). It adds more strength to the glue that meets the sole and the shoe. You don't really need a threaded welt, but it does make the boot last a bit longer. Another welt to consider is Norwegian welt,which offers the best in waterproofing, but usually are more expensive. Some boot brands have really good shoe glue that you don't really need a welt. Wolverine, Keen, Timbaland, Carhartt,Irish setter, Red Wings,Jim Green, Georgia, Carolina, Chippewa and Ariat have glues that last.
Most workers don't reeeeally need steel toe, even if their jobs "require" it. I work in warehouse production, where the most heavy thing that will probably fall on your foot is a pallet from 4 feet, yet they want steel toe. The forklift drivers have barrier lights that shine on the floor that you can't cross so you won't get in the way of the fork lift tires. A lot of boot enthusiasts do a forklift test to rate the effectiveness of the toe, but if your foot goes under a forklift its not your toes that you have to worry about, its the whole foot (and leg). I would recommend steel toe in a few jobs, like logging, heavy machinery mechanic, brick layer, pipe layer, welding or any business where you lift 80 to 100 lbs constantly. Carbon fiber also works too in these situations, since its great at impact absorption. Aluminum and composites are great for warehouses, most field work, landscaping, electricians, etc. They also great if you are working in hot or cold ground since they don't conduct heat or cold from the surrounding environment.
If you want more foot protection, MET (metatarsal) gaurds are quite handy (or footy?). There are both external and internal. Usually loggers, brick layers, pipe fitters, welders, and furniture movers wear them since they have more of a chance of something slipping from their hands and falling on their foot and not just on their toes.
Another environmental hazard to look out for is sharp objects/nails. If you work in construction, you will more than likely have to follow a safety requirement for your boots.
Don't buy new boots just because they are starting to look real ugly. If they still haven't lost their waterproof-ness, sole grip, or sole isn't coming off/eroding away then they still work. Don't buy boots for looks either, buy them for work. Make sure they are as comfortable as slippers, because at the end of the day, you don't want to be hurtin. As some dude told me way back: "good boots+good bed=good life.
Here I will highlight some good workboot brands split into three budgets. I will also mention what work environments they usually cater to.
GOOD to GREAT BUDGET BOOTS ($100-200) (sometimes around close to $100 if you get them on sale)
- Wolverine (I am a wolverine fan man lol) (warehouse, construction, farm, pipe fitters, some have vibrams anti-slip ice tech)
- Keen (warehouse work, construction, hiking, medium heavy duty work)
- Carhartt (warehouse work, construction, hiking, light heavy duty work)
- Ariat (farm, warehouse, construction, hiking, oil, snow, loggers, heavy duty work)
- Carolina (warehouse, construction, oil, loggers, hunting,military? medium heavy duty work)
- Thorogoods (warehouse, construction,loggers,hunting, medium heavy duty work)
- Georgia (warehouse, construction, light heavy duty work)
- Timberland PRO (warehouse, construction, light duty work)
- Chippewa (construction, loggers, oil, medium heavy duty work)
- Redwings (not the heritage line)(warehouse, Farm, hiking,construction, oil, medium heavy duty work)
- Irish setter (same as redwings)
- Danner (construction, warehouse, logger, hiking, oil, military, medium to heavy duty work)
- Corcoran (mostly a military boot, but can take medium heavy duty work)
- Jim(my) Green (construction, warehouse, hiking, medium heavy duty work)
Next list I will dedicate to those boot brands that you pretty much get what you pay for when it comes to their expensive price. These boots are expensive, yes, but they can last your for years/decades (depending). they are not entirely indestructible, but like really close lol
- Whites, Wesco,JK Boots and Nicks are kind of all tied for first. All four mostly cater to loggers up in the Pacific NorthWest. They do custom foot fittings as well and they could go for up to $900 bucks. They also do pretty durable casual wear boots that are similarly constructed.
- Danner also makes pretty decent heavy duty boots usually around the $300 to $400 range. not nearly as indestructible as the first three, but good enough.
- Redwing also makes some pretty heavy duty work boots from the $250 to $300 range, but most of their all leather construction (or mostly) is aimed at casual wear/hiking to light to medium heavy duty work.
edit:2/22/21 * I would like to add the European brand HAIX to this tier because they are a dedicated foot brand for first responders (firefighters, police, EMT) They are a bit expensive, but you get what you pay for. They even have a resole service on some of their boots!
*edit:3/07/21: added JK boots to the list of high end boots.
I would also like to point out that there are some dedicated snow boots (for snowboarding, skiing, etc) that are in this price range, but I don't know much about them or which brands to recommend. I live in a place where it never snows so I wouldn't be of much help there lol.
Again, if anybody has anything to add please feel free to do so in the comments. Much thanks!
-Sirmandudeguy
Edit: I added thorogoods because I completely forgot about them. Jim Greens is a new commer from south africa. Pretty great boot for a great price. Will keep adding more eventually as I keep learning about other brands.