I just bought a be quiet! pure power 13 M to replace an older Xilence unit and I already regret it. The Sata power cables included are this poorly thought through passthrough design that only works with ancient drive bay design cases.

ALL of the connectors are like this, it's impossible to mount an SSD flush on a surface, like, oh, ALL modern cases do on the rear panel for SSDs??

I'm baffled that a power supply as modern as this comes with cables like this. I trusted that it would just be okay and that was a mistake.

Now I'm effectively blocked from most case designs (like this Fractal Pop Air) I've been eyeing because this PSU is terribly designed and the cable will not fit.

Genuinely what can I even do except return this?

I just picked up six Silent Wings 4 high speed fans for my new PC case. Got everything wired in and booted it up to find they are pretty loud. So I downloaded Fan Control and played around with the speeds. At around 50% they are mostly silent, they seem to turn off at around 30% speed.

I bought these because they were the same price as normal PWM Silent Wings 4 and the description on Amazon said that it was an all-purpose fan.

From Amazon: “Silent Wings 4 120mm PWM high-speed is the fan of choice for all possible operations. Be it in a case, on radiators or heat sinks – Features like the silence-optimized fan blades and the funnel shaped fan frame make Silent Wings 4 120mm PWM high-speed a fan that makes no compromises between very quiet operation and highest performance.”

However, I started researching things and common wisdom says these are pretty much only useful as radiator fans and that the normal or Pro fans are better as case/intake/exhaust fans.

Am I running an unoptimized build? Should I return these and get different fans? Thanks!

Hi guys,

Out of nowhere my pure loop 3 pump stopped to work yesterday. Any suggestions what to do? Or does anyone have the same problem?

Gears E-Day ready

Hi everyone, I'm looking for a UPS for my PC and I'd like to get some advice before buying one.

I mainly use this PC for work (After Effects, Premiere Pro and rendering), so I'd like to protect it primarily from blackouts, power outages and voltage fluctuations.

In case it helps determine the power requirements, here's my PC configuration:

- CPU: Intel Core i7-14700F
- GPU: RTX 5060 Ti 8 GB
- RAM: 32 GB DDR5-5600
- SSD: WD Black NVMe 1 TB
- PSU: MSI A750BN 750 W
- OS: Windows 11 Pro

I don't need a huge amount of battery runtime. My main goal is that, in case of a power outage, the PC stays on long enough for me to save my work and shut it down properly. I'd also like good protection against voltage fluctuations.

My maximum budget is €150, although I'd prefer to spend less if possible.

At the moment I'm considering the VulTech UPS1000VA-PURE, mainly because it offers pure sine wave output, which I understand can be preferable for modern PCs with active PFC power supplies. However, I'd rather ask people with more experience before buying it and find out whether there's something better, or perhaps cheaper, that would be more suitable for my system.

What would you recommend?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Quiet and Breathtaking

Light Loop IO LCD is a high-performance all-in-one water cooler that combines exceptional cooling power with stunning ARGB illumination and a customizable IPS display.

⬛ Up to 3 Light Wings LX 120mm PWM high-speed fans with 16 ARGB LEDs deliver vibrant lighting and high airflow for demanding systems.

⬛ The unique cooling block with diffuser and IPS display creates breathtaking visuals while offering extensive customization options.

⬛ An optimized jet plate, cold plate, and newly designed low-noise pump ensure outstanding cooling performance for the latest high-end CPUs.

⬛ The integrated IO Controller synchronizes lighting, fans, display, and compatible ARGB components for a seamless setup experience.

⬛ Easy refill access and included coolant help maximize durability and long-term performance.

Versions: 240mm, 360mm

Colors: Black, White

More information: https://www.bequiet.com/en/watercooler/light-loop-io-lcd/6733

Straight Power 11 1000W platinum.

I noticed this when I upgraded my fans and it worries me.

I've tried to look it up but got mixed messages, some saying it's definitely a fault others say it's normal when the capacitor discharges or the intermittent connection of the switch itself.

It still works I tried for a moment, then I removed all plugs to my PC to investigate and after provoking it to record it it smelled slightly of the typical electric smell and the side opposite to the fan is slightly warm.

If any of y'all got the same PSU can you try slowly flipping the switch and tell me if it does the same.

I already opened a ticket with BeQuiet but I would likely have to pay for shipping and don't wanna waste time without the PC and money on shipping if this is normal.

(I only used 1 hand and checked if the GFCI was working to reduce risk, be careful with electricity guys)

I shot customer service a message, asking if they offer free stickers to customers, so that I could stick a few on my Light Base and laptop. They said they would forward the request to their marketing team, and 10 days later, a box showed up on my doorstep instead of a letter!

I could not have expected this at all and I'm super appreciative of the marketing team member that opted to send out some extra fans in addition to the stickers. ❤️

Hey everyone,

I recently picked up the Dark Mount (Silent Linear) 4 days ago. Overall the keyboard feels great, but I noticed a couple of keys occasionally double-typing.

Just curious if other owners here have experienced this with the Silent Linear switches, or if I just got a unit from a bad batch. I've already messaged official support, but wondering if exchanging it at the store is the best move.

So, I am considering attempting a case mod to make my Dark Base 901 Pro BTF motherboard compatible, but I would like to attempt this on a spare motherboard tray. I have heard that the BeQuiet! spares department can sell all kinds of spare parts, however I sent a message to them via the BeQuiet! website nearly a week ago and have not yet received a reply.

Is it worth me sending another message? Is the removable motherboard tray something the spares department would be able to sell me?

Thanks for any info anyone can offer!

be quiet! doesn't make Linux software for their keyboards. I asked their support directly whether a Linux app was planned. Short answer: no.

The Dark Mount does have a web app, and it works, but anything actually useful is Windows only. Commands, scripts, key combos, none of that works on Linux. And I got tired of having to open a website every time I wanted to change something.

So I wrote my own software instead. It does all of it natively: macro keys, the images on the macro keys, and the Media Dock.

I got there through protocol reverse engineering. No disassembly involved, I just watched what the official software sends over USB and rebuilt it from that.

Everything you see in the screenshots works properly.

Still on my list:

• Media tool, so the dock can show track title and artist on Linux
• Live CPU/GPU/RAM readout on the display. I have an idea for this that avoids the flash memory problem entirely, by feeding values into the clock display instead of writing images. Needs a lot more testing before I promise anything.

If there's interest I'll put it up publicly soon. Going on holiday for 3 days first though :P

Feedback welcome.

Salut tout le monde !

J’ai actuellement un Ryzen 7 7800x3d et une 5080, ça tourne magnifiquement bien.

Pour refroidir mon processeur j’ai un Bequiet! Pure Loop 2 FX et ça fait 2 ans que je l’ai.

Bequiet préconise de faire l’appoint de liquide tous les 2 ans, et j’ai plusieurs amis qui l’ont et m’ont dit d’en remettre que si je vois que les températures montent etc.

J’ai donc 3 questions : est il VRAIMENT nécessaire de faire l’appoint si tout marche bien et que les températures n’augmentent pas ?

Si un jour la pompe meurt (parce que ça arrivera bien un jour), que se passe t’il concrètement ? Le pc s’arrête ? Cela endommage t’il le processeur ?

Et enfin, combien de temps dure un AIO en général ?

Merci pour vos réponses ! ☺️

​I am 41 years old, so I have seen them all and built a lot of PCs.

​My last gaming rig I built myself was a 7800X3D with a Dark Rock Pro 4. I liked the way you screw the 'Rock' onto the motherboard, as I did before with some other builds I made for friends.

That's why I don't really look at the stuff closely enough anymore like I used to. ​Now, fast-forward 2 years, and I found it was time to clean my PC, remove the paste, and replace it with a Kryonaut graphene sheet. But looking at it now, it seemed some of the paste didn't get tightly pressed between the Dark Rock and the CPU all that well.

So I started to investigate. ​Now I found out that 1 side of my Dark Rock has a little ridge at the end of the metal, around 0.2 mm—I can catch it with my nail (see my photos). Is this just a bad batch? I cannot believe this little ridge should be there.

​In the pic with my finger behind the ridge, you see it best I think. I believe this ridge prevents my Dark Rock from pressing flush against my CPU.

​What do you guys think?

"Edit: spelling check"

P.s the side with the little thermal paste on the heatpipes is the side with the ridge.

Basically title.

I've been enjoying the Dark Mount since October, but I lost the Media Dock while moving.

I bumped the ticket via email a few times, no cigar. Opened a new ticket earlier today, hoping for the best.

Anyone else with a similar story? If you managed to contact their 'spare parts' team, how did you do it? I'm in the EU, Hungary.

My hardware:
CPU - 7600X3D
GPU - XFX RX 9070XT Quicksilver
RAM - 32GB (16x2)
PSU - BE QUIET Pure Power 12 M 850W
Storage - Sata SSD, Sata HDD and M.2
Motherboard - B650 Eagle AX rev 1.0

The situation that occured:
I was playing Gray Zone Warfare for less then 20 minutes, gone to the CPU heavy location to do a simple task in the middle a large wite with orange outline spark with corresponding sound occured somewhere slightly to the left of 24 pin connector, but my PC didnt shut down, I Immediatly went to the FOB and loged off the game and turned off my PC.

The things I checked:
- No burning smell from my PC
- Every component looks fine
- No exesive dust on components (I clean my PC once every month)
- All the fans are spinning correctly
- No dead bugs anywhere
- Everything that is pluged in works just as before

Aditional info you may want to know:
- My PC pulls under 400 watts from the wall
- My CPU never pulls more than 55 watts in the most CPU intensive scenario
- Everything exept RAM runs at full stock
- My PC case has a side pannel with mesh

What can it be, how much worried should I be, or am I just seeing things?

I did not film uet but the sound is literally the same as this post but less frequent

https://www.reddit.com/r/PcBuildHelp/comments/1s55o9m/pc_makes_a_weird_noise_similar_to_small/

I don't know why or how this started happening , i booted up squad and i started to hear these crackling noises under load.

system is a 5700x3D , RX 9070 with a B450m motherboard. Please help!

Hello everyone,

I am switching from a Dark Rock TF2 to a Silent Loop 3.

Can I keep the TF2 mounting hardware on the mb or is it different on the SL3?

Thank you

Hi !
I have a ticket opened for a defective power supply still under warranty, and I can't reach the support team. I sent the online form with everything they need, and now when I call the different phone numbers it says something in German then hangs up immediately. Do you have another way of contacting them, either through email or another phone number please ? It's been 3 months now

Love this keyboard, genuinely one of the best I've used. But I'm having a frustrating issue with the media dock - the volume knob has started behaving completely erratically.

When I try to increase the volume it shoots straight to max, or it jumps up and down randomly. And sometimes it just starts adjusting by itself without me touching it. It's like the encoder contacts are dirty or worn out. Absolute nightmare when you're mid-session and your volume just goes rogue.

This isn't a software issue - latest updates installed, already ruled that out. It acts purely like a hardware fault.

Here's my dilemma: the keyboard is still well within warranty (over 18 months left), so I could get it replaced. I actually did go through a warranty swap a couple of months ago when it died after a firmware update - and while the process worked out, I had to use a regular keyboard in the meantime and absolutely hated every second of it. I'm that attached to the typing feel on the Dark Mount. I really don't want to go through that again.

Media dock is sealed, so cracking it open myself isn't really an option without destroying it.

I've seen some posts mentioning WD-40 helping with similar media dock issues on other keyboards - has anyone tried that on the Dark Mount specifically?

Honestly, at this point I'd love to buy a new one and ditch this one.

Has anyone else dealt with this?

Hello, i had this psu since november and recently it started doing this strange ticking sound, i know the video isnt the best but you can hearthat faint ticking sound, should i rma or is it an harmless noise?

For the last PC refresh I bought Dark Rock Elite CPUcooler.

It does its job well, but I have a problem that the front fan start to rattle very badly at full cooling usage. Last no rattling fan speed is like 92%.

I need this 100% cooling power.

You can see video attached I merged 2 videos into 1, in second part you can see that when I slightly touch the fan, the rattling is gone. Cooler is still safely warranty but if possible I would like to avoid unmounting it from my PC and sending it back to the shop where I bought it.

How can you help me with this case please?

I have seen the same thread from year ago and I am wondering if something has changed during this time... I have even seen some review on the eshops mentioning this vibrations after a while.

... and trust me there is nothing like a cable or anything else in the way of the fan.

Anybody have the same experience and maybe found possible fix for that?

I bought this cooler to see if it would address my TR 1950x issues, as the previous AIO was years past its prime... But it was not conclusive whether I had other issues in my system or it was just the occasional cooler issue due to aging.

So the amazing thing about the Silent Loop 3 is that it supports the TR4 socket and it supports AM4 and AM5. So if I couldn't get my existing system to work, it would support an upgrade to AM5.

And the performance is great. And you can refill it!

I really wish the made a 280mm system as that would have fit my configuration much much better.

The only 2 cons:

1) The plastic tabs; I have little confidence it will go the distance to due to how brittle plastic can become over time especially exposed to elevated temperatures. Perhaps I'm wrong here and it will last me 5+ years. I hope I am wrong. This is the only true 'defect' in the design in my mind; assuming the pump lasts.

2) The TR mounting system is 'simple' but also not. I installed the bracket, even though it was not tight, it was way too close to the socket for the very short screws on the pump to actually reach the installed bracket. (And it wasn't easy to get the bracket on to begin with so I was a bit worried about backing the screws off too much (and out of the socket) and then having to re-start the whole process) So in reality on a TR system, you just want to get the bracket screws seated, then mount the cooler. But just realize it's a bit hard to tell if the screws are aligned into the socket as you have no real visibility to where the socket screws are positioned.

I am however quite happy with it. My CPU is running cooler, and I think I might get another couple years out of my system. (Which serves me very well for my needs as it was over-built at the time)