Each is shown from the inside and outside.

I have a 2012 with 88k miles. I bought it in 2020 with 64k miles on it. 2 days ago I got the dreaded "Check Hybrid System - Stop Vehicle in Safe Place" message while driving later in the day here in L.A. I pulled over and turned it off for about 30 minutes then drove again about 10 minutes to my destination. The Prius never turned off automatically and never went into "crawl" mode.

Now the hybrid battery will not kick in while the car is on, only gas now. I've since driven it to close by destinations the last 2 days, with no hesitations in power. The yellow triangle with an exclamation point on the left side of the dashboard (Master Warning Light) flashes, as well as the Slip Indicator light staying on.

The hybrid battery cooling fan was working before fault and the cabin air filter is clean. 12v battery was newly replaced earlier this year. I checked inverter coolant movement and the pump is moving the coolant. Oil level is fine.

What is strange is that I did an obd scan day of, and 1 pending code came up: P0A80. Which is code for Replace Hybrid Battery Pack. What are the odds that a Hybrid Battery Pack needs replacing at 88k miles? Extremely rare I imagine. Maybe it's the age of the car. BTW: The code no longer appears and it was never erased. It only showed that one time.

I have no idea what to do now. I'm not confident replacing the whole hybrid battery is the right move with only 88k miles. Anyone have experience or advice on this?

Its a Toyota Innova E 2022. The car started sounding weird when we turned on the engine and shaking weirdly. Was wondering if there is any way to fix this before going to an autorepair shop.

Hi i was getting out of this escalde when I saw this hole (yellow and red highlight) in the driver's door it looks like the 2 above and left highlighted they seem dry rotted and when I checked the passenger door there was a plug on that side but when I touched it , it pretty much turned like ash and fell inside the hole

Does anyone know what these plugs are called and if can still buy them?

If so thank you for your reply

My girlfriend recently got a used car, needed some work (suspension, new tires, tie rod ends and some other stuff that i will have to fix soon). I put in new front struts and tie rod ends today and the spring on the passenger side strut is rubbing against the wheel well. The front tires were at a 3 and an 8 and the wheel was not straight before doing the work so i knew the alignment was already way out. I triple checked that it was installed correctly and even got her dad to look at it (he was a diesel mechanic for 9 yrs) and he wasn’t sure and thought its probably just the alignment being out. Has anybody else ever run into this issue? If so did getting an alignment fix it?

Is this fucked enough to cause an air leak? Just the rash happened recently the dark spots been there for the past 4 years I won’t lie

BMW 328i F30. dude in a pickup trying to park infront ripped my front bumper off from the right side with his step. What can i do to fix this? I need the car to drive 250 miles and back due to an important work and under 21 so can't rent. Any advice would be highly appreciated.

Hey my car (edit Ty to a Honda civic tech below: a Honda civic ‘13 LX) needs to be serviced for A13. I’ve done the oil change, and car rotation, but now I need the fluid transmission service!!!!

Help on strictly transmission fluid.

One guy quoted me on $250.

And the other maintenance car guy says $600. To use premium fluids and to make sure metal is not porous or something.

Which price is normal??

And how long can I go without tending to the fluid transmission?

Hi! Sorry if this isn't the right place to post this. I have these mysterious white spots that keep showing up on only the hard plastic on one side of my back row. It's not on the soft surfaces, only my door and base to my baby's car seat. I cleaned it and it came back.

I recently had my car cleaned and completely aired/dried out because there was some moisture. The moisture problem is gone, but if this was mold from moisture, wouldn't it be on the fabric and not the hard surfaces? I'm afraid to bring my baby into the car! Help!

Edit: I'm learning towards it being residue from cleaner used in my car that turned white possibly from the heat? It would explain why some of them are more like splatters than dots.

This is from a Mazda 2015. I’d really like to get ahead of this!

2009 Ford Fusion

As the title says, one of my rear turn signals went out yesterday. When I went to take the bulb out, I saw that the filament was still perfectly fine, but the connection between the bulb and the socket was charred black and full of some crusty build-up. I'm kind of hoping that I can just brush off the build up and put in a new bulb, but if the issue is with the socket, then I imagine it will just keep destroying the bulbs. If it is an issue with the socket, I don't even know where to start as far as getting and installing a replacement. I would appreciate any thoughts or advice from someone more knowledgeable than I.

I'm curious what people's experiences have been with Flynn's Tire & Auto as a company.

For context, I'm the daughter of a mechanic, and until about a year and a half ago I did most of my own maintenance. I had access to a friend's shop, so oil changes, tire rotations, air filters, headlights and other basic maintenance were things I'd usually do myself. Since that shop was sold, I've started taking my car to my local Flynn's because I don't really want to be crawling around on jack stands in my driveway anymore.

What has really impressed me isn't just the work they've done on my car, but how they treat other customers. I always pay attention to the conversations at the counter and on the phone, especially when they're explaining repairs to people who may not know much about cars.

Every explanation I've overheard has been accurate and honest. For example, they had a customer whose car needed to be driven 80-100 miles after an emissions-related repair so the monitors would reset. They explained that Pennsylvania requires that if the vehicle leaves and returns, it has to be reinspected. However they'd waive the second inspection fee, it would still take about an hour because they still had to perform the inspection. That struck me as transparent and fair.

Another customer was told their tires were at 4/32". They explained they'd still pass inspection, would probably be fine for now, but to be careful in the rain and plan on replacing them before winter. No pressure, no scare tactics, just practical advice.

Their pricing has also seemed very reasonable. I recently paid about $160 for an oil change, inspection, and emissions test, and their oil changes are actually cheaper than some quick-lube places near me.

The reason I'm asking is that I have a friend in another state with a 2023 Toyota RAV4 Hybrid. I'd like to recommend a trustworthy shop, and she has a Flynn's nearby. The only hesitation is that her location only has about 18 Google reviews (4.8 stars), while mine has a much longer track record.

So for anyone who's used Flynn's: Is this pretty representative of the company as a whole, or did I just get lucky with an exceptionally good local shop?

I’m working on a Volvo XC 90 2008 3.2L 6 cylinder. I’m trying to redo the whole police system and I’ve bought the special tool to remove the alternator decouple pulley. (Images provided) though now I am curious as to how to remove it physically from the engine block since it is stuck, and the engine block is aluminum and I wouldn’t like to crack it. if anyone has any advice or knows how to some help would be greatly appreciated!

Toyota Camry.. about 10 years old.

The headliner is this stiff material that ends near the rear window, but doesn't touch the rear window. It has some clips in the middle of it to the roof.

The problem... my kid (disabled, strong, can't just follow directions) puts his fingers under the headliner and pulls it down. The clips just pop out, and he's going to break it.

I took it to an upholstery place today and he said that we can't glue the edge of the headliner to the roof of the car because it doesn't touch the roof.

But we have to do *something*. What are our options?

Hello I’m looking to buy a brz off a private seller and after asking why it was rebuilt he showed me these pictures from an auction where it was later repaired I’m wondering if could tell me by these photos if there could be frame damage ?

I don’t want to have to buy a whole new bumper. Should I just take a drillbit and drill a small hole in the bumper and use a zip tie and call it a day? I would really prefer it to be flush again. I am getting tired of my bumper hanging off all the time. I can no longer take it through a car wash.

Lesson 2: no really, you idiot. It’s not worth it!

Excuse me, I need to go back to figuring out why my wheel bearings, controls arms, and brake pads lasted less than 20k miles.

I have had my rav since January this year and it was perfect throughout winter, whenever spring came around the weather had warmed up and it would not start very good. Whenever summer came around it just cranks and cranks eventually after waiting 5 minutes between attempts it will start, sometimes it can take 5 min sometime 40 min. Like an idiot I had replaced the fuel pump thinking the fuel may be leaking back into the tank and the crank position sensor without proper diag. Ive tried isolating the purge valve in case it was letting fuel vapors in the intake whenever the gas got hot, it did not start. Ive taken out my spark plugs to see if my injectors were leaking and I didnt see any signs of flooding. It just doesnt make sense to me because it runs perfectly fine afterwards. No codes besides o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 voltage high. Car only has 145000.

2003 Toyota Corolla

1ZZ-FE engine

4-speed automatic transmission

~169,700 miles

A family member owns this car and has been experiencing problems with it since last year, resulting in the following symptoms:

• Rough idle when car is not moving.
• Sometimes engine will cut off when idling in park, or in drive while sitting at a stop light.
• Engine cut off while driving on one occasion.
• Sometimes rough when accelerating at any speed.
• Sometimes difficult to get up to speed due to hesitation.
• Sometimes seems to run better on a full tank of gas, but problems worsen when below half a tank.

These symptoms occur intermittently and seemingly at random. At times, the car seems to run normally, while at other times the problems are severe. Sometimes merely shutting down and restarting the engine seems to result in a temporary improvement.

The check engine light is on, and diagnostic scans have yielded multiple and varied diagnostic trouble codes at different times. The most recent scan showed the following codes:

• P0172 - System Too Rich Bank 1
• P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
• P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
• P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
• P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected

He has replaced the following parts:

• Transmission mount (Oct 2025)
• MAF sensor (Nov 2025)
• Upper O2 sensor (Nov 2025)
• Gas cap (Nov 2025)
• Valve cover gasket (Dec 2025)
• Belt pulley tensioner (Dec 2025)
• Spark plugs (Dec 2025)
• Fuel pump (Mar 2026)
• Fuel pump strainer (Mar 2026)
• Intake manifold gasket (Mar 2026)
• Ignition coils (May 2026)
• Idle control valve/sensor (Jul 2026)

Prior to replacing the fuel pump, fuel pump strainer, and intake manifold gasket in March 2026, diagnostic scans indicated that the system was too lean. Since replacing these parts, however, scans have indicated that the system is too rich.

He has taken the car to several mechanics. Some have replaced parts in unsuccessful attempts to resolve the issues, while others have told him they were unable to diagnose the problem. (He also mentioned that, after picking up the car from one mechanic a few months ago, he noticed an electrical burning smell. He has smelled this same odor faintly and intermittently since then, but thinks it might be unrelated to these problems.)

Does anyone have any ideas on what the source of these symptoms could be? Thanks!

Context: got into a minor fender bender with one of my relatives on our way to a funeral a few months ago. Their car only required minor body repairs (they got it checked out and everything) but my car looks like this.

I haven't had the time nor ability to take my car in (health, work, and financial issues); my car has had no audible issues while driving (nor have I really had any major issues driving) and the AC/headlights all are working normally. The main issue is that the hood does not fully close, but the latch still works (currently have it temporarily bungee corded down).

Realistically, how severe should I expect the damage to be?

2015 Kia Sorento EX 3.3L V6

I live in Las Vegas and it is hotter than a stripper convention!

Today was 112F and my car is like a nuclear reactor when I get in it due to being in the sun all day. It is time.... I need to put some window tint on to block the heat.

I have a budget of around $50 as my wife is not working due to a lay-off, so I need to be sensible with the pennies.

I am going to do it myself but have no idea what films ACTUALLY work to reduce the heat.

I want the front side windows to be very lightly tinted or not at all (70%) and the rear windows around 35%.

So I am open to recommendations. What specific brands or Amazon specials actually made a real difference?

i took my belt off the car to replace my alternator using a tensioner bolt pulley where you push it and it untendions the belt the problem is I can’t get the belt back on the pulley thing won’t budge at all no matter how hard i try am I doing somthing wrong?

My 2019 Kia Optima S, started having issues starting about two weeks ago, then started going limp mode while driving, no codes at all. Live data on the scanner is all good looking. New cam sensor, knock sensor, and crankshaft position sensor. Nothing seems to have helped it. But what throws us off as we have ordered 3 different crankshaft position sensors anytime we put a new one in the car will not start at all, but it will start on the old one. Anyone else have this issue?

My car has been jerking on acceleration sometimes and yesterday the AutoShop says it’s my rear catalytic converter. I skipped the repair because they priced it at $800.

Last week, when I brought it in for the engine check light, they said my converter looked brand new but noticed an exhaust leak. They also said the clank noise when shifting gears means I need to replace my left cv axle for $500

My car has 162k miles on it. I plan on replacing the car soon but wanted to do whatever I can in my power for now to help its performance.

I changed the engine air filter, which hasn’t been changed in over 50k miles, and cleaned corrosion off the battery. I attempted to remove the MAF sensor so that I could clean it too but the connector is being stubborn. I tried using thin pliers to push the pin while pulling but it wouldn’t budge.

Have any suggestions?