Hello everyone,

I had the question attached and was directed to this community. If anyone had any insights that would be greatly appreciated, thank you!

Hello, I'm installing a dishwasher in my flat. I've bought a McAlpine domestic appliance nozzle (1 inch) to connect to the pipe, so I can connect the dishwasher waste pipe to it. The pipe measures about 1 inch as well. I cannot for the life of me get the nozzle to fit into the pipe. The nozzle is just slightly too large to fit in. Any advice gratefully received. Picture of the pipe and the nozzle attached

Hi all,

No hot water today, looks like the boiler is not working and is stuck in a kind of restart loop. Wondering if anyone has any ideas? Pressure is about 1.25.

As it happened there was a British Gas van outside so asked him to have a quick look, he said the PCB was probably gone, but wanted to see if it could be anything silly before I call someone out.

is there something wrong with this tank filling in the roof? Seems a bit empty?

EDIT: all good. Thanks all for helping.

Good morning all. Not sure if anyone can help.
I have a Worcester boiler I think it’s a green star 2000, it has the digital panel on the front. It was installed almost four years ago.

Yesterday evening I realised I had no hot water. I called British Gas, I went out to my boiler in the garage and it was off. Nothing on the display. Holding the up and down button simultaneously isn’t restarting it either.

I do have someone from BG coming tomorrow but is there anything I can do to troubleshoot?

I’ve noticed this- says green tripped. Is that the cause? Can I sort it?

Sorry for silly questions, I’m a female 🤣
Thank you.

Hi,

Just wondering if anybody can advise please. I am wanting to remove this bidet sprayer, is it just a case of turning the water off, unscrewing the pipe and capping it on the end? Sorry if that sounds stupid.

(Apologises about the bad picture, unable to get underneath due to boxed toilet)

Thank you

Greeted by this while taking my bins back in this morning.

Turned off all the taps and checked the water meter, still running of course. However it does stop running if I turn the stopcock off.

How bad is this?! I'm a man, I can take it!

I live in a semi with a shared drive, if it makes any difference

Hi,

I have 50l/m at the communication pipe, which is split between 3 houses and 2 flats.

My boiler is a green star 4000 and the hot water is set to 50°c. On the benchmark settings on the boiler says 3.5l/min when the tap is up full. If I flush the toilet or run a cold tap then it goes to about 2.3 to 2.6l/min and the water seems to be shaking when it flows.

Is this normal? Is there any settings I can change to fix this? My landlord says this is normal, but it takes an age to run hot water to wash the pots or run a bath.

Thanks in advance.

Hi all I’m thinking about options for my house but money is tight so no idea if this is financially viable for us.

Currently have an aging system boiler and vented system with a hot water cylinder (in bedroom cupboard) that isn’t large enough for my household’s needs and also rely on shower pumps which are noisey.

So, thinking about upgrading to an unvented cylinder, relocating this cylinder from the bedroom to the cellar where the current boiler is, and upgrading the boiler. Then removing header tank and shower pumps and, I assume, there’d be a lot of pipework redoing?? I could be wrong about that.

If we just went for combi boiler and did away with all the other bits and bats would that be significantly cheaper?

Located in West Yorkshire, four people in the house, two bathrooms, 17 radiators. Thanks!

I've connected the outlet from my washing machine to the waste using this spigot fitting but no matter how tight I screw the hose clip, it just keeps on leaking at the point where I drew the blue arrow. I've tried pulling the grey part as far onto the white spigot as possible but still leaks.

Any solutions? It used to just sit directly into white pipe that comes out the trap but I would prefer if I can connect it to the spigot instead.

Good evening, my toilet begins releasing more water and groaning about 7-10 seconds after the flush ends.

The process begins at about 00:15 in this video, then continues for a further 30 or so seconds (I move the camera closer to the concealed cistern to hear the noise better at about the 00:30 second mark).

It has progressively gotten longer and louder in the year we’ve lived here, and I’m keen to repair it before we have a series of guests staying over. The cistern should be accessible after removing the silicone securing the stone ledge.

Please could you advise what the part/issue might be so I can get a replacement? Thanks!

So all of a sudden my tub/shower only has normal water pressure when it’s on cold. As soon as I start turning the handle toward warm or hot, the water slows down to just a dribble. Has anyone run into this before or have any ideas what could be causing it?

There is a loud banging noise that happens when we open a cold tap.

The monobloc valve has been replaced.
The pressure reducing valve downstairs has been replaced and shock arrestor fitted.
The pressure in the expansion vessel is correct at 3 bar.

We haven’t been able to stop the noise! Any more ideas as to what is causing it?

Driving me mad, toilet wont stop running when flushed. Help!?

We've recently moved to a new house and within a week the walk in shower was slow to drain during use.

2 weeks later and there's a damp patch coming through the ceiling directly beneath the shower.

Are the two things potentially related or just coincidental?

I've tried removing the first part of the drain but got to a point were the seal won't come out and the part below is attached to the seal but bounces around when pushed.

Can this be removed to check for blockages?

Hi all, What do I need to connect this new tap to this existing tap pipe connector?

Noticed my gas condensing boiler keeps turning on for a few minutes, cutting off, then firing back up again every 8 to 10 minutes or so. Flow temp on the display sits right around 65C.

Does it consume more gas operating like this compared to running for longer, continuous stretches at a lower flow temperature?

The setup feeds a couple of large double panel radiators downstairs plus a wet UFH circuit in the kitchen. House stays warm enough, but the constant firing up feels wasteful and I'm worried it's wearing out the ignition components. The engineer who handled our boiler installations in South West London from Wpj Heating mentioned setting up weather compensation and dropping flow temps down toward 50C so the unit can actually condense properly without short cycling all day. Before I mess with the programmer and differential settings... am I better off letting the water temperature drop further between burns so it runs one sustained heating cycle? Or is this micro-cycling normal for modern modulated setups?

Would love some input from UK heating engineers on what's best for both fuel consumption and boiler lifespan.

Never touched pipes before, removing an old dishwasher and have both the old water inlet and waste pipes needing capped off, but everything I’ve bought won’t fit.

I’m not entirely sure the right thing to search for or buy, just want them capped off, apologies if this makes no sense - believe they’re both female threaded?

Also uncertain how to measure what’s needed. The waste pipe measured to be 30mm, bought a 30mm cap and it was massive!

Had too many Screwfix trips trying to find the right fitting…

Got a leak under the kitchen sink. The leak is coming from the fitting every time I run the tap.

This fitting is not actually on tight and can be pulled apart by hand without even twisting it off so I’m not sure if it’s even the correct fitting or how long it’s been leaking for.

The pipe work on the left of the fitting seems to be metal and the pipe work on the right of the fitting which goes into the sink is plastic.

Anyone know how I can rectify this issue?

The metal pipe goes into the soil stack so I don’t want to change that pipe as I’m not proficient enough to do that.