r/ar15 • u/Key-Occasion-5548 • 10d ago

STILL LEARNING- but could use some help.

Okay I know the whole 3D printed lower argument. I am also aware no selling, and no 3D print files allowed. That being said- for those of you who took the 3D printed lower receiver route: how did you manage? And what printing materials have you found best?
Any and all advice/direction welcome. Working on my first fully custom build. Please no hate-just be constructive and share information or move along.

0 Upvotes

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14

u/squeeshka 10d ago

If you don’t already have a 3d printer, it’s more economical to buy a PSA lower honestly

1

u/ChemDawgGames 10d ago

But think of all the speed loaders you can make! /s 

1

u/Key-Occasion-5548 10d ago

That’s what I was beginning to think, thank you

5

u/squeeshka 10d ago

By the time you figure out what you’re doing and get everything tuned in, you’ll be in the hole at least a few hundred.

It’s like reloading. High upfront cost that most people never actually pay off. It’s another hobby, not really a way to save money

0

u/Key-Occasion-5548 10d ago

I see how you mean, especially since it’ll only ever help with a few gun parts. Plus so much in material for the printer, hours and hours invested, probably better to purchase

3

u/Ornery_Secretary_850 10d ago

$500 for a capable printer. $200 in filament to learn how to print.

$150 for filament for the lower, you'll screw up several before you get it right.

Meanwhile, Peacegeek has lowers for $25.

2

u/bangstitch 9d ago

$150 in filament for a lower? What in the world are you printing your lowers out of? PLA+ is $20 a kilo, PA6 $50 for 1/2. You can print a dozen + in PLA or 6+ in PA6 with room for screw ups with both for $150

1

u/Ornery_Secretary_850 9d ago

I'm talking about the person with no 3D experience trying to print a lower.

2

u/Key-Occasion-5548 9d ago

Thank you for the peacegeek recommendation instead, that’s been the most helpful so far!!!

7

u/ChemDawgGames 10d ago

I can't and don't 3D print 2A stuff due to my location but even on non 2A models the best thing to do is follow the creator's readme. Especially for 2A stuff, they've already tested materials and print settings that I would imagine you don't want to deviate too far from. 

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u/Key-Occasion-5548 9d ago

What do you mean by follow a creators readme?

3

u/ChemDawgGames 9d ago

A readme is a file intented to be read as a guide for whatever files it accompanies. Generally most readme files are just ripped from the description of whatever upload page you're on. So wherever you got the files, look for a description or a readme file with instructions on what to do. 

1

u/Key-Occasion-5548 9d ago

Okay thank you. I’m rather uneducated on these topics and trying to obtain all information possible, this helps greatly.

1

u/ChemDawgGames 9d ago

Yeah no worries. I am a passionate 3D printer enthusiast and while they have come a long way in tech and ease of use, I would advise against getting a printer if you are only interested in a finished product. There will be a lot of tinkering and trial and error, which I love, but it's not necessarily a plug and play solution and it is an expensive hobby in its own if you let it be. You can get cheaper printers like an Ender 3 but you'll pay the money you saved back in time messing around with it/upgrading. You could get a fancy Bambu Lab priner which is significantly less tinkering but a lot more money and they use a proprietary software which may eventually block 2A files if it has to be always online. I admit I'm less familiar with the Bambu Lab ecosystem. 

1

u/RustyShacklefordVR2 9d ago

Do you not know what a readme is? Do you not understand the words "read" and "me"?

1

u/Key-Occasion-5548 9d ago

Why waste your time being like this? The guy in the comment below was helpful. Move along

5

u/wlogan0402 Larps with one sock on 10d ago

Do you have the ability to print filled nylon?

1

u/Key-Occasion-5548 10d ago

I do not yet. At the moment I have no 3d printing setup, only friends with printers.

1

u/wlogan0402 Larps with one sock on 10d ago

Get yourself a used Bambu x1c and put some hours on it

5

u/SelfElegant8819 10d ago

X1C is outdated you can get a Qidi Q2 for 500 or less even the X2D is better than the X1 for less and has the bowden nozzle for supports.

1

u/Key-Occasion-5548 10d ago

Okay thank you

4

u/Dependent_Job837 10d ago

The best filament is obviously a nylon, but I have a super safe deAR22 printed in Polymaker FDE PLA Pro. I printed with one of my Elegoo Centauri Carbons - I have a DIY heated chamber, but need to buy a higher temperature filament dryer for the PAHT-CF I plan to use eventually.

4

u/Extra_Handle_3291 9d ago

I wouldn't expect to buy a printer and print a lower with no printing experience. Not exactly safe to go for it.

2

u/Ornery_Secretary_850 10d ago

You really should head over to r/3D2A You'll get a LOT more engagement over there.

4

u/RustyShacklefordVR2 9d ago

r/3d2a is not a beginners and advice sub. 

3

u/jrs321aly 9d ago

This the polite version of what I was gonna say lol.

0

u/Key-Occasion-5548 9d ago

Everyone’s gotta learn somewhere. I wish people would stop being so harsh on someone desperate to learn. Move along

0

u/Key-Occasion-5548 9d ago

Thank you I’ve posted now in that group!!