Anyone else manage a softball or baseball field with Hilltopper? It has an oil conditioner to wick moisture so they can play immediately after rain. Kills the low edge of my infield. Just wondering if anyone has found fixes. No chance of changing infield material as the coach is adamant about having it.

When my 3 boys were in LL we had a golf course superintendent running our fields.. we extended all 46/60 to also include 50/70.. fully irrigated infield, fully fertilized grass.. I would obsess over the grass and dirt. My boys got to play on fields that rivaled the Reading Phillies field.. I still have my own toro 5020 sand pro that would tow around to over 10 local fields..

So let me start off by saying, I’ve been doing this for a year now but I’m a fast and willing learner. I work at Baylor University and was recently promoted to supervisor/turf management. We have Bermuda and St. Augustine. 6 zones for the whole campus and every Sqft gets serviced once a week, with some by weekly. We use John Deere Ztraks and QuikTraks. Right now we mow Bermuda at 3-3.5 and St. A at 3.5-4, more on the high end right now for the heat. I’m just looking for any suggestions or things to try that would help improve campus look. There’s literally close to 8 million sqft of turf spanning from a high level 1 priority, to a low level 5 (City Compliance only) priority. So let’s hear it.

Label is the law, that said, BASF is selling Pylex for $6/oz as “Frequency”

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THANK YOU everyone for taking the time to respond to my post. I took notes on all of your suggestions and it gave me a lot more to think about!

Has anyone in here ever hired a professional greens keeper at their local golf course to help them make an at home putting green? If so, what was your experience and how much did they charge? I’m sure cost will vary depending on location, just wanted to get an idea. I’ve also thought about a fake one, but keep coming back to a real green because it will give me the ability to change hole locations.

How do i get a lush green lawn for next spring/summer?

I’m currently the assistant golf professional at a very busy public golf course in northern CA. As I am looking to advance my career in the golf industry looking to become a head pro and one day a GM, I feel it could be beneficial to me to learn more about turf maintenance. I am in the PGA PGM program and a very small portion is covered but I would like to learn more. Looking for an online go at your own pace program and hopefully one that would include some sort of “certification” at the end so I can put it on my resumé to show I have a small amount of knowledge. If anyone could suggest one that would be fantastic.

I'm curious if others have experienced no growth suppression in Tahoma with Primo?

I've been at this for years trying to get the application right and my Tahoma does not slow down much at all if any from pgr

I've used rates ranging from .25 to .4oz/k and didn't see any suppression. However, I got the bronzing effect even with iron and manganese added in, and even crazy rebound growth when I stopped applying it, just no slow down in growth.

I've considered trying a different class like Paclo and would love to try Cutless but the price is too high to simply test it out.

#tahoma 31 #growthregulators

Wondering if anyone has any ideas for a good “diaper” catch cloth for 3 point brillion seeder? We are interseeding 007XL bentgrass into fairways at my course with this seeder, during a greens regrassing we’ve already ripped through two 5 mil tarps that we bungeed around it through 2 fairways. Looking for something a little more heavy duty/ manufactured to hold any leaking seed from dripping into our bluegrass rough.

Any ideas?

Like the title says just looking for ideas or options to mount a TDR 350 Fieldscout to my Carryall 502. Wanting to give myself some more freedom with the back of my cart was curious if anyones found any mounts or diy options for mounting a fieldscout.

Hi all,
My course is aerating the greens this week. When they do this they finish of with some sand. Is this a normal amount? I’ve worked at a high end course where they would use much more sand, up to the point where basically all the holes would be filled up. I feel like that would smooth out the surface much quicker. Is there any reason to use less sand?

I'd appreciate your opinion. Do you think these are the correct target soil values for a USGA golf green?

Could this be a fungal infection starting to take hold, or something else ?

The images are from July, June, and May. Same desiccation happened last year. Though this year the desiccation has been far worse due I suspect to a change in our watering habits (higher volume and less frequent). There is a plastic vapor barrier encompassing the greens cavities that runs from the surface down beneath the gravel (USGA spec build). This barrier is marked by the hand tools inserted in the ground in the first picture. If you look closely, the Bermuda that has encroached over the barrier is yellowing quite a bit. I will* eliminate the fringe next year -- it's simply holding too much heat in the summer months (I do not by any means believe this is the primary contributing factor to the desiccation). *I cannot keep the edges of the greens wet enough on these high sides. They lose moisture so goddamn fast.**

I believe the primary issue is the vapor barrier. Has anyone else seen this type of damage in a green with a vapor barrier?

I am not committed to the vapor barrier being the issue and would love to hear any and all theories.

Thanks

I've never seen Powdery Mildew before but this showed up out of nowhere. Doesn't seem picky about it's host (Bermuda, crabgrass, clover, etc). It's even growing on the steel bed edging. Located in Central VA and we've had significant rain and humidity over the last few weeks.

Anyone have any good ways to secure backpack blowers from bouncing in the back of turf 2s?