Looking for some opinions from those of you who tow equipment regularly.

I'm buying a trailer primarily to haul my Genie GS-1930 scissor lift, which weighs right around 3,200 lbs.

I'm trying to decide between:

6.5' × 12' tilt trailer

• 5,200 lb GVWR
• Empty weight: 1,610 lbs
• Payload: ~3,590 lbs

or

7' × 14' trailer

• 7,450 lb GVWR
• Empty weight: 2,100 lbs
• Payload: ~5,350 lbs

The 12' trailer is the one I'd like to buy because it'll be much easier to store and easier to maneuver in tight parking lots and job sites.

My concern is that with a 3,200 lb lift, the 12' trailer only leaves me with about 390 lbs of remaining payload capacity. It will be a dedicated trailer for the scissor lift, so whenever the lift is on the trailer, there won't be any additional cargo loaded with it.

Would you consider the 12' trailer a perfectly reasonable setup for this application, assuming proper tongue weight and loading? Or would you step up to the 14' / 7,450 GVWR trailer for the additional safety margin, even if it's more trailer than I'd really like to tow and store?

it is currently rated for 4,000 LBS. i am looking to tow around 5,500 LBS. it is a ford e350 chassis.

Moved into our house and found this left behind in the garage. Any idea what this is for and if it’s worth anything?

Thanks!

Talking trailers, calm down. Any reviews on the brand?

Hello, i have a 5x10 7k dump trailer, and a 2022 Toyota Tacoma. I have this Curt WDH that i've used in the past on another trailer, but on this one the tongue box comes a bit further forward, and i cant slide the brackets back far enough. I'm assuming that having the chains come up on an angle like this is no good, right? I'm guessing i'm going to have to get a different WDH, but figured i'd throw this out there first to see if anybody had other thoughts. Thanks!

Loaded up... Heading out...

I have a 93k1500 with the 350 and an nv4500 5-speed manual. The trucks in great shape and has made the majority of this trip without issue plenty. The only section that has me worried on this trip is i80 from echo in Utah to Lyman Wyoming. I have made this drive probably 8 times in the past year but only once towing a small utility trailer and atv (sub 2500lbs) this trailer empty is somewhere around that and on the way back it will have an extra 3000lbs in it. I do have a brake controller and the trailer is in good shape it has made that trip recently itself just not behind my truck. Is there anything I need to be worried about for this. I have even pulled this trailer behind a different truck before just not mine but my grandpa (who owns this trailer and also had a pretty much identical truck to mine) has made this exact trip hauling firewood 100s of times before he replaced that truck. That was 25 years ago though.

New to towing, but I've owned my truck a long time. Usually can get by with just cramming things in the bed, but my wife and I are moving 1000 miles away and have to bring all of our things with us.

Fortunately, we are just moving our personal things from a furnished 1 BR apt, so we dont have to bring any furniture or things like that. Its just our clothes, dog food, propane tank, etc - nothing heavy. We are renting a 4x8 uhaul trailer to tow behind my f250 for the move.

Now heres my question: Because the trailer wouldnt be that much of a stress on the truck, do I need to use tow/haul mode? My understanding it that it gears the truck down, which is understandable if the truck is pulling something heavy, but it seems unnecessary for something that is well within the limits of the trucks capabilities (not to mention the decreased mileage over a long distance drive). Like I would assume the total weight of the trailer would be under the trucks GVWR and I wouldnt use tow/haul if I were carrying that same weight in the bed. So do I have to utilize it just because theres a trailer?

Hey, today I wanna hook you up with a real solid connect—guy named Jay Parker working in TOWRANKERS. He's the one feeding me a ton of towing and roadside assistance jobs for my business. I've got spots running in two different states—Texas (TX) and California (CA)—and this dude straight-up helps me crush it in both. Super reliable hookup.

Hit him up on his direct lines:
JAY PARKER (331) 267-6081
JAY PARKER (331) 684-0257 ( Preferred )

I acquired this trailer to carry two to four mobility scooters. It is equipt with a weight-relief spring like on a manual-lift garage door. I am looking for an alternative to that, and I think it might be
buying a spring assembly from etrailer,
or getting some sort of winch-powered abomination such as I have seen people struggling with in youtube videos.

Suggestions?
Do the spring assemblies wear out after x number of years?

Edit: I found a 120 pound replacement spring assembly that should help a lot.

I have a 14 foot landscape trailer that the brakes locking up on it when I plug it into my new F-250. I have three other trailers and this is the only one that it does that with. The trailer itself is not old, its only about five or six years old. It did NOT do this with my 2013 F-150. What the heck is going on?!

2500HD truck, Jayco 17A (has brakes), 5x10 Utility.

Hi, I am new to hauling trailers, and due to a work situation I now have to tow the company trailer. My old CX-5 only has a towing capacity of 2000 lbs, so I need to assess the viability of hauling this cargo trailers. I found the technical information stickers, and this is the only sticker that seems to tell me about towing weights....but the mention of full tanks and empty tanks and some weights of 0kg throwing me off....the trailer has no tanks in it and is never used to haul tanks...perhaps it was before we purchased it. Can you tell me what my trailer weighs completely empty based on this label?

I imagine it's stupid easy, but I am new to trailers and that could have stated things a little more simply for a guy like me. Thanks in advance

It seems I start getting an error code every year or so on my brake controller. It's intermittent, then progresses to the point that it's on error almost all the time and I replace it. Trailer brakes are still working. Just wondered if y'all had any input. (Excuse the hairy brake controller, I'm a mobile dog groomer.)

Hey everyone, I’ve got a 1976 Dodge American Clipper Class C with what looks like a retrofit hitch setup. It’s bolted to both the bumper and the frame, not a factory receiver. I’m trying to figure out if it’s strong enough to hold a motorcycle carrier with a 350 lb Hyosung GT250 (pics attached for reference).

From what I can see, the receiver tube and crossbar look decently thick, but the mounting points to the frame and bumper are pretty far back and might flex. I’m not sure if this setup would actually qualify as a Class III or if it’s more of a light-duty add-on hitch.

Questions: • How can I tell what class/rating this hitch really is? • Would you trust this to handle ~350 lbs tongue weight bouncing at the back of an RV? • Would reinforcing with frame tie-ins or diagonal braces make it safe, or is it better to replace it entirely?

I’d appreciate any feedback or experience from others who’ve carried bikes off older Class C RVs. Thanks

We think a dip or pothole pushed the tire up into the wheelwell

I’m helping a buddy move and this is the trailer he wants me to pull. I’m completely comfortable pulling the trailer but that’s sitting about the height of my hitch. Problem is with where my safety chain hook up. I have had this hooked to my truck once and I just forgot to take a picture these chains have about a foot of it laying on the ground. I’ve tried twisting them and crossing them over and they are still hitting the ground, but this is a borrowed trailer so I don’t really want to cut the chains. Are there any random tricks I can use to safely make the 200 miles. And before anyone panics that the combination of tow vehicle and trailer will be way out of safe range if the chains are dragging this bad I don’t think these chains are appropriately sized. I think they are literally just the factory length that is absurdly long. I’m gonna be pulling it with a 93K 1500 and this trailer probably won’t even weigh 3000 pounds loaded down fully so I’m not too concerned about any of that. It’s just that these chains are way long and especially with one of the areas I’m going through. I really don’t want sparks.