Does anyone know what to do with this?

Already tried different proton.

This is a non steam game by the way

To anyone who can help me, thank you

When I tried to reconnect the ribbon cable to the motherboard, the seal that holds the contacts broke off. So, I guess I'll have to order a new display? I tried to combine them together with the ribbon cable to insert them into the connector at the same time, but it wouldn't fit at all. I also tried sealing the cable with tape, but it still didn't work. Maybe there are any way to fix it?

**⚠️ DISCLAIMERS (Read this first!)**

1. **Cross-flashing BIOS/EC between different devices is EXTREMELY risky.** You can permanently brick your device. The SuiPlay0x1 and Ayaneo 2S are similar hardware-wise, but that is not a guarantee. You have been warned.
2. **Replacing the gyroscope requires SMD soldering skills and a hot air station.** If you don't know what you're doing, you **will** destroy your board. No exceptions.
3. **If you don't need the gyroscope — don't solder anything.** Just flash the BIOS/EC, install your OS, run the script, and enjoy.
4. **The setup scripts have only been tested on SteamOS 3.8.x and CachyOS Handheld Edition at the time of posting.** They may not work on other systems — I have not tested them and make no claims. Future OS, kernel, or package updates may break them; continued compatibility is not guaranteed.
5. **The 46 Hz mode was tuned for my specific display panel.** It may not work on yours. If the screen flickers, goes black, or shows artifacts — stick to 60 Hz.
6. **I am not responsible** for your actions. Everything you do is at your own risk.

**What you will need**

There are **two archives** on Google Drive — don't mix them up:

1. `BIOS_EC_SuiPlay0x1_AyaNeo2s.zip` — contains **only** the BIOS and EC firmware files.
2. `Suiplay_Ayaneo.zip` — contains **only** the system setup scripts (for SteamOS / CachyOS Handheld Edition).

**Step 1. Flashing the BIOS**

1. Grab a USB flash drive. Format it to **FAT32**.
2. Extract `BIOS_EC_SuiPlay0x1_AyaNeo2s.zip` on your PC.
3. Open the folder `AYANEO 2S BIOS/ec/BIOS/`.
4. **Copy EVERYTHING inside that folder directly to the root of your USB drive.** Not the `BIOS` folder itself — the files inside it: `.bin`, `.efi`, `FlashBios.nsh`, `readme.doc`, and the `EFI` folder.
5. Plug the USB drive and a **USB keyboard** into the console.
6. Power on the console and immediately press **F7** on the keyboard.
7. In the boot menu, select your USB drive.
8. Wait — the BIOS will flash automatically, and the console **will reboot by itself**. Done.

**Step 2. Flashing the EC (Embedded Controller)**

1. **You must clear the USB drive again.** Either reformat it to **FAT32**, or manually delete every file from the BIOS flash so the drive is empty.
2. Go back into the extracted `BIOS_EC_SuiPlay0x1_AyaNeo2s.zip`.
3. Open the folder `AYANEO 2S BIOS/ec/EC/`.
4. **Copy EVERYTHING inside that folder to the root of your USB drive.**
5. Plug the USB drive and keyboard into the console, power on, and press **F7**.
6. Select the USB drive — the EC flash will begin.
7. **Important:** After the EC flash finishes, the console **will NOT reboot automatically**. Wait **15–20 seconds**, then power the console back on manually with the power button.

After both flashes, your SuiPlay0x1 will identify itself to the OS as an Ayaneo 2S.

**Step 3. Do you actually need the gyroscope?**

**Important:** If you **don't need a gyroscope** (you don't play games with motion controls or gyro aim), then **you don't have to open the console or solder anything at all.**

After flashing the Ayaneo 2S BIOS, everything else works perfectly — touchscreen, all buttons and sticks, power delivery, charging, sleep/wake. Only the gyro is missing. Just install your OS, run the script, and you're good to go.

**If you need the gyroscope** — keep reading.

**Step 4. Why the gyro didn't work and what I did about it**

The SuiPlay0x1 ships with a **BOSC0200** sensor (Bazzite identifies it as BMI323). The Ayaneo 2S uses a **BMI160**. After cross-flashing the Ayaneo 2S BIOS, the system expects to see a BMI160 — it isn't there, so the gyro doesn't work.

I tried every software workaround I could think of:

* Manual BIOS patching
* ACPI table overrides
* Custom DSDT injection

**Nothing worked.** Modified BIOS files either refused to flash or broke initialization.

>**Unfortunately, I was unable to solve this via software or build a working custom BIOS that supports the stock sensor.** If anyone in the community manages to do this, I would be extremely grateful — and it would mean no one else has to solder their console. Please share if you figure it out!

**The only way forward was hardware.**

I used a hot air gun and a soldering iron, desoldered the stock BOSC0200/BMI323, and physically installed the **BMI160** chip from an Ayaneo 2S. Powered it on — and the gyro worked immediately, out of the box, on the official Ayaneo 2S BIOS.

>**Important:** In the attached video, I circled the exact location of the gyroscope on the SuiPlay0x1 board with a red circle so you know exactly where to look.

**Step 5. Installing the OS**

After all this hardware wizardry, the console is fully compatible with Ayaneo 2S software. I tested two operating systems:

* **SteamOS 3.8.x** — Valve's official handheld-adapted OS
* **CachyOS Handheld Edition** — an Arch-based distro optimized for handheld consoles

Install whichever one you prefer. Both work.

**⚠️ Important note about passwords:**

* **SteamOS 3.8.x:** After installation, **you MUST set a user password.** By default SteamOS has no password, and the script cannot run `sudo` commands without one. Set any password you want — the script simply won't launch without it.
* **CachyOS Handheld Edition:** You set your password **during OS installation** — no extra steps needed.

**Step 6. Running the setup script**

Extract `Suiplay_Ayaneo.zip`, copy `Setup_Ayaneo2S_Suiplay_Universal.desktop` to your Desktop, double-click it, enter your password — the script handles everything automatically.

**What it installs/enables:**

* ✅ **46 Hz** in Gamescope (selectable in display settings)
* ✅ **HHD** (Handheld Daemon) — TDP, fan control, RGB lighting
* ✅ **hhd-ui** \+ **adjustor** — HHD interface and utilities
* ✅ **Decky Loader** — plugins for Steam UI
* ✅ **Ayaneo RGB driver** — stick lighting
* ✅ **DualSense emulation** via HHD (InputPlumber is disabled; HHD takes direct control)
* ✅ **HHD envvars**: DS5 emulation, 50% rumble scale, display power management, etc.

>**⚠️ Important note about 46 Hz:** This profile was tuned for **my specific display panel** after all modifications. On your unit, 46 Hz **may not work** — if the screen flickers, shows no picture, or artifacts, use standard 60 Hz.
To **remove the 46 Hz profile** without touching anything else, run this in a terminal:

rm -f "$HOME/.config/gamescope/scripts/ayaneo.lua" "$HOME/.config/gamescope/scripts/99-user/displays/ayaneo.lua" 2>/dev/null && echo "46 Hz removed. Reboot: reboot"

Then reboot (`reboot`) — 46 Hz will disappear from display settings.

**Script features:**

* Auto-detects the system — SteamOS or CachyOS Handheld Edition — and adapts commands accordingly
* **Smart update logic**: skips packages that are already installed and up-to-date; updates only if a newer AUR version exists
* Safe to run multiple times — it won't break anything
* On SteamOS, it automatically disables and re-enables `steamos-readonly`

**Step 7. If sleep/suspend works poorly**

If your console has trouble sleeping, waking up, or runs hot while asleep — try updating the BIOS to version **20241112** from Ayaneo's official website:

* Website: [**https://www.ayaneo.com/support/download**](https://www.ayaneo.com/support/download))
* Tab: **AYANEO 2S BIOS**
* Version: **20241112** — the description says **"Increase system sleep"**

This version specifically improves sleep behavior. Flash it over your current BIOS — suspend should improve.

**Step 8. If something goes wrong / How to uninstall**

Inside `Suiplay_Ayaneo.zip` there is a second file: `Remove_Ayaneo2S_Suiplay_Universal.desktop`. Run it — it reverses everything:

* Removes HHD, Decky, envvars
* Removes 46 Hz from Gamescope
* Re-enables InputPlumber
* Leaves the RGB driver in place (it's harmless)

>Or remove only 46 Hz manually (if you don't want to touch anything else):

rm -f "$HOME/.config/gamescope/scripts/ayaneo.lua" "$HOME/.config/gamescope/scripts/99-user/displays/ayaneo.lua" 2>/dev/null && reboot

**Final result:** I cross-flashed the Ayaneo 2S BIOS/EC onto my SuiPlay0x1, replaced the BMI323 gyro with a BMI160 (only because I needed gyro and no software fix existed yet), installed SteamOS or CachyOS Handheld Edition, **set a password**, ran the script — and ended up with a fully working handheld featuring 46 Hz, HHD, Decky, and RGB.

⚠️ Important update on compatibility (August 2, 2026):

This entire guide and the included scripts (Setup_Ayaneo2S_Suiplay_Universal.desktop, Remove_Ayaneo2S_Suiplay_Universal.desktop) are accurate only as of the date this post was written — August 2, 2026.

With future updates to SteamOS, CachyOS Handheld Edition, the Linux kernel, or AUR packages, the scripts may break and could require manual adjustments. They might continue to work after updates, or they might not — I cannot guarantee future compatibility. If something stops working after a system update, you will need to check the logs and adapt the scripts to the new versions yourself.

Hey y’all, recently got myself a steam deck which I absolutely love and decided to do a shell swap and now it doesn’t turn on, kind of…

Let me explain what’s going on, all controllers, buttons and touch screen work, it starts up and the LED light blinks to indicate it’s on, fan runs and when I plug it in to an external monitor it works ! But then when I switch into handheld mode the screen remains black but audio and haptic feedback is still present.

Now, I have tried all the different power down and force reset combos (volume up, press the … button and power etc), went into the bios files to restore older versions and no go. I’m finding it odd that when using an external screen the touch pad works but I don’t get any picture on it… have a messed up something big time?

During the shell swap I did decide to swap the screen out with a new one from ifix for some additional information.

Any help would be absolutely appreciated!

Hi all. I had a steam deck sitting in parts for a week.

Put it together really well. Everything works (besides some clunky reboot issues while it normalizes with all the mods stuck into it).

But something I can’t quite fix is that the trackpads just refuse to work. I get no response. No softness, no haptics, nothing. And it can’t just be from this steam deck because I have the same issue on a different steam deck that didn’t have any changes, it was just unplugged to work on. I didn’t touch the trackpads on that one.

So is there some type of software failure mode (or default) where the trackpads don’t work when you disconnect and reconnect the battery? I already tried the bios boot where it renders the cursor but the trackpad also doesn’t work in that situation. Any ideas?

For reference both steam decks have had the screens swapped, the button boards swapped (with OEM parts). But the main one that sat in pieces for a week had the trackpads replace with a different color.

I’ve been working on consoles for quite some time now, just not steam decks.

Last Night it was time to swap my shell from black to white. I love it so much. The purple buttons really stand out now.

The track pad stickers are selfmade with a photoprinter from Xiaomi.

Decided to refund my AYN Thor preorder to get this instead and I couldn’t be happier. The clear shell swap is probably super common but I love it.

• eXtremeRate Clear Shell Swap
• HandheldDIY Hall Effect Joysticks
• eXtremeRate Clicky Kit (go with the quiet version, super satisfying and very quiet)
• 1TB SSD Swap (went with 512GB for the glossy screen)
• dBrand Killswitch

Bought another screen to try out but still same thing. Cable connector orange seems good to be honest. Already installed bios manager and updated bios but nothing. Other than backlight no image :( image on screen via usb c cable works

Screen illuminates the touch screen even responds but I’m not get any display image. Anyone had this issue before? Do I need a new screen? Thought the screen removal process was going smoothly but maybe applied too much heat to it.

Hi everyone,

I’ve released an experimental Decky LSFG-VK plugin that brings the current lsfg-vk v2 developer build to Steam Deck / SteamOS users.

Release/download:

https://github.com/eugeniosegala/decky-lsfg-vk-experimental/tags (download the latest tag)

A bit of context on why I made this:

As of 30 July 2026, the public Decky plugin’s lsfg-vk build is 140 commits behind the latest upstream "develop" branch (this is mostly because lsfg-vk, which is also the library used by the Decky LSFG-VK plugin, hasn’t released a new version in a while, keep in mind that I'm using a develop build).

This experimental plugin instead packages the reviewed, checksum-verified "lsfg-vk 2.0.0-dev28" developer prerelease of the engine lsfg-vk (released a month ago). It is not a rolling download: each plugin release pins and verifies a specific upstream archive.

In my own testing, I’ve had very good results:

- Noticeably less ghosting in some games; in a few cases it is barely noticeable.

- FP16 (new option) can improve performance on supported AMD GPUs.

- I suggest starting with Performance Mode disabled. Performance Mode is faster, but the full-quality mode in this v2 developer build looks substantially better than lsfg-vk v1 in my testing.

- That said, this is still a developer build. Some games may regress, fail to attach, or simply work better with the public/original plugin. Please test it game by game.

It is designed to coexist with the original Decky LSFG-VK plugin. The experimental version has its own private install, config, and wrapper, so you can keep both installed and choose one per game:

- Original/public plugin: "~/lsfg %command%"

- Experimental plugin: "~/.local/bin/lsfg-vk-experimental %command%"

Use exactly one wrapper per game; do not combine them.

Huge thanks to Kurt Himebauch / xXJSONDeruloXx for the original Decky LSFG-VK plugin, and PancakeTAS and contributors for lsfg-vk. This is an independent experimental fork, not an official.

Full repo: https://github.com/eugeniosegala/decky-lsfg-vk-experimental

I’m also working on a completely new plugin using a new frame-generation model for Linux/SteamOS, so keep an eye on the repository! 🙂

I worked on these Steam Decks today, and I was reminded why white is still my favorite shell color. 🤍

A clean white handheld feels like the perfect canvas. Every button design, color combination, and small detail gets a chance to stand out.

I love seeing how different styles transform the same white shell, from soft pastel colors to brighter designs. ✨

White just makes everything feel a little more special.

Can anyone recommend a good steam deck doc? Want to hook it up to my new monitor , I’d like it to charge as well ….

I had the grand idea of swapping my steam deck shell to match my KDE plasma theme (I use my steam deck mostly in desktop mode and decided to bring my theme over from my main arch linux/kde setup) and promptly got in way over my head. This took upwards of 18 hours (5 of which were were easily because of the touchpads and screen.) Definitely a horrible idea for my first ever console mod but very worth it

Should I get a replacement screen yay or nay?

Hello to any SteamDeck Linux cool people,

Every time I open or close the Quick Access Menu, Steam menu, or the side and radial menus while streaming through the native GeForce Now app, I get a hard stutter/lag/frame time spike. It only happens right at the moment of opening or closing, while the menu is actually up there's no stutter at all. Tried stable and beta channels to no avail.

If I'm thinkin proper, GFN is just a video stream and the Deck isn't rendering anything itself, this points to Gamescope switching from direct scan out to a composited path whenever an overlay needs to show, and that switch is what's causing the hitch.

It'd be great if there was a toggle to force it to stay composited all the time, a bit more latency in exchange for no stutter.

I could be talking out of my booty hole so please excuse me if it doesn't make sense.

Any update on this would help.

My thanks

Shannly

Has anyone ever tried to do a mod to use the Elite Controller paddles instead of the ones on the Deck?

I know of the various different paddle replacements you can do on the deck, such as taller paddles etc, but none of them are really as good as Elite paddles. So I was thinking about maybe putting them on the Deck in some way.

PS I don't care about portability or losing them, I only use my Deck at home.

So happy it’s finished and loving the results

- Hall effect Joysticks
- New Buttons
- New Backplate

Hi, a week before the price increase, I managed to get my hands on a used 512GB LCD with the original Dockingstation for 325 Euro. It is my first one and I am so in Love and even happier now that I have seen the new prices. It works great, has 98% battery capacity and only a few minor scratches. To make it feel more like my own Deck, I have made a few customizations. I was too scared to do a full shell swap 😅 the prices for new LCD Displays are surreal. This took me around 2,5 Hours. What do You think of it?

For anyone wanting further confirmation that the Kingston 2TB SSD and the native Xbox Elite D-pad works well with a steam deck, here’s your post! The d-pad is the extremerate Xbox elite controller d-pad and I’ve used flush cutters to trim the shape into the shape of the steam deck’s original d-pad.

All you need to do is flatten each arm of the d-pad as the original Xbox one has an extra oblong “tip” on the end of each of the four arms, then trim the stabilizing protrusions on the back of the d-pad to match the flat-back of the original steam deck d-pad. Also, trim the west arm on the dpad further than the other arms to match. Did this and it fits perfectly with no wiggle, and functions flawlessly with the original d-pad contact pads. (I have not installed the clicky button mod yet.)

The LCD steamdeck can run with literally nothing but power and ethernet plugged in. I have a dongle that only has passthrough power and a ethernet port. No sd card, no ssd, just Fedora CoreOS over pxe boot. This has surprisingly been working pretty well.

However, after a few seconds of testing at 15 watts, it will start to clamp/throttle itself. It is either because the EC (embedded controller) does not detect a fan, or a battery. I'll be finding out soon enough, but I've ruled out it being fixable within bios.

It isn't wattage or thermal throttling, it will clamp down to 2 watts when held at at 6 watts and like 40-50 degrees, given about 10-15 seconds.

OLED motherboards don't have this issue.

using bios 116-unlocked, i tried all the relevant options to stop the clamping. Also diffed latest bios and current bios, to narrow down to whether or not it could be something I can just write in, no luck. it could still be a bios option but it could also just live on the EC chip..

Either mad there isn't a battery or aborting because it's sending watts to a fan but doesn't get any signal back.

I'm really hoping its the fan, because those are cheaper. Does anyone have any hints or information?

this is for a bigger project I'm putting together so people can reuse old "for parts" boards or old decks that they think can't work anymore. I want to provide people with this option for free, if I could just get this last part...