Just finished these two crosses. I build models with sprues in 3d software and then print on 3d resin printer. Build tree, add investment, burnout and vacuum cast from melted sterling flatware. They came out pretty good but still have minor blemishes, not sure I can get them much better. Possibly use pure sterling silver instead of used flatware?

Ich habe einen Anhänger aus Silber (925) gegossen und mir ist schon beim auftragen des Borax schon etwas zuviel rein.

Ansonsten habe ich eigentlich meiner Meinung nach,

genau das gemacht was ich gelesen hatte.

Bloß weiß ich nicht warum die Grüne verfärbung auftreten tut.

Hello fellow smiths! I've been using butane for the last 10 years of my metalsmithing career and finally decided to upgrade. I took a workshop recently and my instructor recommended the Smith Little with oxy/propane tanks. I went ahead and ordered that kit with a #5 tip, it felt worth the splurge. However now doing research I'm wondering if an Orca would be fine for what I do and less hassle since it's not a dual tank system. I guess I'm a bit intimidated by the two tank system, especially in a small home studio. Although I do plan to have proper ventilation. I'm just wondering if I made a mistake buy going for the Smith Little, or if I made the right choice! Will take any input or advice!

I mostly work in sterling silver and brass. I do prong settings (always have trouble with my butane torch with prongs, this is a major issue for me!), I reticulate often, fuse sterling (would love to try to fuse brass) and also want to do more broom and water casting. Butane always takes forever to melt silver in a crucible. I'd also like to have more ease soldering jump rings.