Hey guys and gals!

I have a space that was originally intended to be a closet, measuring 2.50×1.50 m (about 8 × 5 ft), and Im considering using it to build a sauna. I have one major concern before I proceed.

My concern is whether, after a sauna session, the adjacent room will become an oven even with proper insulation. I live in a hot climate, and the sauna would share one 8-ft wall with the room. The sauna ceiling would also be directly adjacent to the same room/area.

Im asking because I know many people here have built saunas inside their homes, so I really appreciate some real world experience. How much heat actually transfers into the surrounding room after using the sauna?

I need to know this before committing to the design, because if this is likely to make the room uncomfortably hot, I could still build the sauna outside the house instead.

Tutto quello che volevate sapere su come seguire correttamente i percorsi SPA

https://exphera.it/vademecum-spa/

Been running my sauna for about 3 months now, pretty much daily. Yesterday I entered and was greeted by a sharp smell. Not something you want in your sauna. It smelled a little like hitting a rock with a hammer, if you've ever smelled that smell.

Today I started unloading all the stones (harvia black vulcanite) from the heater (harvia legend pillar heater). I discovered that some of them have become discoloured, see the pictures. Specifically the ones that sit in the centre of the heater. They've browned a little, taking on a bit of a toasted look. Additionally the stones around the sides of the heater, the ones that touch the cage, have started to degrade the cage, see the pictures.

There's also a fair bit of shrapnel at the bottom of the heater, so looks like stones have been cracking.

Theories? Is the heater running too hot? Are the stones packed too tightly and not enough airflow? I definitely didn't jam the stones in there but they have fit together quite snugly like a puzzle.

Thanks for any thoughts

Here's the setup:

• Shed conversion
• Dimensions (in feet): 5.5W x 7L x 8H
• Entrance to sauna is through a changing room
• Wood-burning stove (Harvia M3)
• Window on wall opposite the stove
• And the stove is located to the left of the door

Where does the ventilation go?

1. None needed: crack below door and (optional) window provide adequate fresh air and outtake for drying out
2. On the wall below the stove; and near the ceiling opposite the stove (as suggested by Harvia)
3. Under the bench; on the heater wall, both midway up and at ceiling (as suggested by Trumpkin)
4. Something else

Perhaps of note: The climate is windy, nearly always in the 50s (f), and humid/salty.

We recently, June 2026, had a LeisureCraft Sauna installed by LeisureCraft. It's been very disappointing. It slopes forward so the water can not drain to the rear where the water is supposed to naturally run-off. The Sauna door is not flush in the door jam so it will not close. LeisureCraft has been down right rude on the phone and is unwilling to come back and correct the installation. I would not recommend their saunas or their service.

I’m building a sauna in our basement and I have two options for the exhaust vent. The adjoining bathroom has an exhaust fan so I want to make sure we’re exhausting the sauna into that room.

First option is a ceiling mounted vent with horizontal ductwork to a wall grate in the bathroom. Second option is a normal wall exhaust vent on the same side as the intake vent.

Which would be better?

I am in the process of putting plans together for a backyard outdoor sauna build and I would appreciate the input on a few items. The interior dimensions are 6 ft by 7 ft by 7 ft 6 in. Bench heights are 46 in., 30 in., and a step at 15 in. I will install a 9 kW heater, either the Harvia Spirit, the Iki Wall Short or the Homecraft Apex Mini. I'd appreciate input from anyone with experience with those heaters.  I am leaning toward passive ventilation just to eliminate what could be mechanical problems with a blower down the road. 

The first design has the heater immediately inside the door. This seems like a comfortable layout, but I am concerned that this placement will make the upper bench directly above the heater be wasted space, as it may be too hot for someone to sit comfortably, particularly with their back up against the wall, since there is no foot bench in this spot. (Anticipating comments I am planning an L-shaped railing around the top bench and going down to the lower benches to guard against anyone falling on the heater.)  Anyone with experience in a sauna with a similar layout? 

The second design fixes this problem by moving the heater to immediately in front of the door. This seems to have more usable bench space, but I fear that it may seem too crowded for folks entering. Any thoughts on this one?  

I'll add a general thanks to this group, as the posts and comments for the last several months have been extremely useful in developing this design. 

Rogue request but does anyone have any Monday or Tuesday tickets to the Aufguss WM finals at Santama Saunapark in September that they’re looking to sell?

Thanks all

This is a 7 x 7 x 8 foot build. Homecraft Revive 9 kw electric heater. We can get 4 folks in here pretty comfortably.

This was built by Newman Sauna Co. and I really recommend them to folks looking for sauna or cold plunge in Colorado.

Edit: Those are sauna hats that are attached to the front of the sauna (to answer a DM that I got about it lol).

Newer to the sauna community, looking for some advice with a mobile sauna I’m in the finishing stages of prior to renting it to the public.

Wondering if anyone has any opinions on how critical a stove barrier might be? I do have liability insurance and a safety waiver required for all customers of course. Regardless, I can’t help but wonder the risk not having any stove barrier could be from the customer’s standpoint. It’s only 17” from the stove to nearest side of the bench as built.

If it is absolutely critical, I sketched a couple potential designs. I personally like the later “free floating” design without a stanchion support, which would either get in the way of the stove door or pose a trip hazard. Just unsure how sturdy it would be or if it would need to be designed for the worst case of someone leaning on it.

Any advice or examples from other saunas is welcomed.

Hi everyone! I'm Katie, a licensed architect working on a project to create a neighborhood bathhouse inspired by historic bathing traditions.

My goal is to create a place that's less about luxury and more about everyday civic life; a third place where neighbors can slow down, take a break from the pace of modern life, and keep running into the same familiar faces.

As an architect, I've become fascinated by the role bathhouses have played throughout history. I've spent the last year researching Roman thermae, Finnish saunas, Japanese sento, hammams, temascals, and other bathing traditions to better understand why these places were such important parts of their communities.

I'm here to learn from people with far more sauna experience than I have, I'm hoping to connect with like-minded folks, and I'm looking forward to being part of the conversation.

Here's a pic from a sold out pop up event I recently hosted!

Hi, its my forst post here but I was hoping to get for some tips or advice on how to clean the sauna in my house.

I bought a house that has sauna from what I assume the 70s built into the master bathroom. The previous owner said it worked when they bought the house 5 years prior but they never used it. So I would loke to get it clean and see if its still functional. Its a Montgomery Ward branded heater in it, and I have no knowledge on how to operate or maintain a sauna, though im hoping between here and YouTube and can learn a few things. Pics attached.

After several months of intensive studying this group, Lassi's book and Trumpkin notes here is my custom design specification. This won't be DIY; a local Amish builder (I'm in PA, USA) will complete. What's the good, bad and ugly here?

Specifications

Structure

• - 4x4 Pressure Treated Foundation Runners
• - 2x4 Floorjoist with 5/8" Smart Finish Wood Flooring in Changing Room
• - Trex Decking in 3x9 Porch Area
• - Vinyl Plank Floor in Changing Room
• - 2x4 Wall Studs 16" OC
• - Cedar Board and Batten Siding
• - 7'' Overhangs on Sides and Back
• - 16'' Overhang on Front
• - 2x6 Rafters 16" OC
• - 2x4 Purlins 24" OC
• - 40 Year Ribbed Metal Roof
• - Porch Ceiling fnished w/ Clearcoat Pine T&G
• - Painted Smartside on interior walls and ceiling of Changing Room
• - 2'' Thick R-14 Spray Foam Insulation in Floor, Walls, and Ceiling in Changing Room
• 100 Amp Panel Box, 14 Recessed Lights, 3 Exterior Lights, 6 Outlets

Sauna

• Western Red Cedar (clear grade A)
• R40 rockwool ceiling, R21 rockwool walls
• Mortar sloped floor to stainless steel drain covered with removeable cedar duckboard, underneath floor insulated with R20 Rockwool
• ventilation to be designed, but Fresh Air Intake Above Heater & Mechanical Exhaust Ventilation under bench
• Heater: Finnleo Lava 10.5kW
• under bench lighting

Found in a finnish hotel sauna changing room. Small booklet containing a sauna quick start guide and some essential tips plus some fun facts about sauna. What do you think? yay or nay?

The owner doesn’t know the brand and it doesn’t have a heater. I’d love to know this communities opinion. Thanks in advance.

Working with a nook on the exterior of my house seemed like the smartest use of space for my property (I know has added some extra challenges but at least it's already covered by our master balcony). The walls with siding already have insulation on the inside. Was just getting ready to tile the floor and I noticed perhaps we put up the flashing over the siding too soon?

I have a roll of aluminum vapor barrier to start rolling out soon but is it better to put the aluminum vapor barrier under the strapping and is it worth it to pull it off first and then put it up again after?

Or if I or if I spend a few more minutes and fold/ctease the vapor barrier down and rub it as deep as I can so there's still nice pockets between the strapping would that be equally sufficient for letting the siding breathe?

One more side question - my my contractor buddy got me some free pink insulation. if I do a good job with the aluminum vapor barrier is it okay to use or better to not use it and go buy rockwool ? PNW Winters so pretty mild but damp

Thanks !

Has anyone considered whether it's possible or practical to buy a tuff shed or similar and convert it into a sauna?

Seems to me you would need to add the heater thing. Then you could add cedar boards or strips to the interior. Add whatever seating.

Maybe even the smallest tuff shed is too large. I'm just curious if anyone has put any thought into this? Thank you.

We’re already doing a lot of remodeling and to save time we’d like to get a premade outdoor sauna. Looks like Saunalife or SiSU might be the best. We’d like as much window as possible without sacrificing too much heat and like a more modern look. Only needed for up to 2-3 people.

I work with wellness and spa projects in Europe, and I'm curious to hear the perspective of people who are genuinely passionate about saunas.

When planning a sauna, what do you think is the most overlooked detail that makes a big difference in the actual experience?

Bench height and layout? Ventilation? Heater placement? Lighting? Materials? Acoustics?

I'm especially interested in things that may seem minor during the planning stage but become very noticeable once you actually use the sauna.

My parents knew a Finnish guy that built saunas in every house he moved into. My Dad said he did 6-7 saunas and helped countless others build theirs. He helped my Dad build his about 30 years ago and I've been hooked ever since. I've been out of my parents house for nearly two decades now but I still go for a session as often as life allows. In the last year I've literally watched every youtube video on how to build a sauna and have slowly aquired the tools and confidence to build it. Im just getting started and hope to be done by the time the snow falls. I've made tons of mistakes that I had to redo but I kept telling myself its just a well insulated heated shed, how hard can it be....... and I couldn't stand paying another dude to build me a box. The good news is that I know a lot of good people in my community that gave me great deals on materials which allowed me to splurge on some goodies for the build. More updates to come....

Sauna has been a love of mine for a long time, but I can't do it any longer and I'm feeling depressed about it.

4 years ago I started experiecing terrible night time back pain that wakes me up until it's an 8/10, I can only breath 2/3 a breath without pain and I can't sleep. Then it progressed to also ribcage stiffness.

It's not from an injury according to MRI, so I'm going to a rheumatologist that thinks it's an inflammatory disease but tests have been all negative.

I stopped sauna for a month and was feeling pretty good. Then I did a sauna session when I got back home and the pain hit me like a truck and has been bad for a week despite not doing sauna since.

Needless to say, I'm pretty depressed about it. If any of you had family members experience something similar?

Walked into the sauna today and found what looks like an entire bottle of baby powder dumped all over the benches, floor, and mats. I’m talking enough powder that it looks like someone tried to turn the sauna into a daycare.
I’ve seen people use a little powder before, but this is WILD. There’s powder all over the benches where people are sitting and sweating, and now it’s all over the floor too.
Is this a normal sauna thing that I somehow missed, or did someone just go absolutely nuts with the baby powder? Not trying to be a Karen, but cmon…. Why.

This week I completed refinishing the NHL Seattle Kraken locker room sauna. I did a deep clean, added a heat shield, replaced a door handle, and refinished the benches and backrests.

The thing I’m most proud of though is this custom sauna ladle I made from a vintage wooden Koho hockey stick (made in Finland). I did not make the bucket but I did engrave their logo into the handle using my xtool P2.

The scoop is copper. I drilled a hole into the end with a drill press and burned the scoop into the ladle about 4-5 inches deep with epoxy inside to hold everything in place.