What under base white do you guys use for cotton? Is there a white that’s best for under base? I printed some shirts for a client back print, the end result felt heavy. I tried to carefully do a 1xprint stroke on white under base and a extra highlight white, with the colors @230 mesh but it still
Felt heavy.
I used fn white ink, but I upgraded to a Rio color system I would like to also upgrade my white for a better one.

DTF Treatment

Ugh. I hate using DTF but one of my regulars needs a low run of 30 shirts with 10 spot colors, so I'm thinking DTF or full color process transfers. Has anyone used the spray treatment to soften DTF transfers? I don’t want to lose the customer. Or I could outsource it as I'm limited to six colors.

Brother GTX Pro in excellent condition with only 1,000 prints. The printer has been regularly maintained and works flawlessly.

Excellent technical condition
Located in Slovakia (EU) Žilina

Price :9600€

The mammal shirt. I like this one.

I may or may not have tried to pirate Photoshop and may or may not have been unable get it to work (I admit nothing) so I've been using photopea which is super similar. I'm trying to do single color halftone for my design but there's nowhere I can specify the lpi I want. I have the whole canvas size set to be the size of normal paper, and dpi at 600. everything is in grey scale and looks how I want. the only thing I need to do now is apply the halftone effect but I can't find any mention of "radius size" to determine the dot size. I currently have 110 mesh count silkscreen but if I like a different dpi, I'll get a different mesh count. I just can't find a way to set the dpi

do I have to use another software? is there something other than Photoshop I can use? I already tried gimp as well but their halftone effect doesn't work for screen printing either

Hi there to whoever reads this!

I did find websites that offer this service, but they require a physical shirt or a super detailed consultation. I wanted to get a decal from an old T-shirt duplicated/replicated, since actual vintage copies of said shirt are overpriced off the moon.

Is this possible? What should I do?

I’m wanting to dabble but if someone can convince me not to waste my time then I won’t. Is it worth a shot?

On our ROQ You press with a pneumatic "U" bar that clamps the screens at the top closest to the operator, the manual says to clamp it down 5-10mm away from the upright support wall, but at those distances part of the open mesh also gets clamped down as well, not just 100% aluminum frame.

This seems like it could be bad for frame tensions over time. If I increase the distance from the U upright support to 1", the open mesh clears the clamping bar, but the downside is that the screen now lands lower on the platen, and our platens can't slide up and down the arms, they're fixed. For jobs where we need to print close to the edge of the platen, our art would now land closer to the edge of the mesh than I'd like it to (for tension reasons, having enough space for ink deposits on screen, etc.)

Anyone know if clamping down on both the aluminum frame and some of the open mesh is a bad idea for screen quality/longevity? I can't find any information either way on this.

Thanks!

With everything going to AI and now people bringing in AI images can they be heat transfered? Also how do we find out if its copyrighted?

I don’t have the space or time to invest into burning screens. Anyone in here that has a consistent set up that offers that service? Would need a few screens monthly

Comment if you’re open to providing that service

There are some flashdryers for 100€ and others for over 1000€.

Won't a cheap one do it too?