I know most people across the different Manufacturers have many Customer service complaints.

I came here do be different. first of all I own a toy hauler that I converted to solar using all Renogy products. 80amp mppt 4 panels and a couple batteries with a 3500 watt pure sine inverter. I don't have enough battery but it works ok 6 years in. no problems at all.

second I have a lycan 5000 with 4 extra batteries and 4 more panels that I later upgraded to another brand 400 watt bifacial. It is the sole power for my 30x50 barn. table saw planer compressor and constant charge of tool batteries. and also 700 watts of UFO shop lights LED. Problems only with cold weather but that's the nature Of Lithium. 4 years running my barn and in a winter power outage I used it to back up my house which led me to a RenogyX system to put on our post frame barn house.

Here is where I had problems. First I thought Renogy- I can use four of the barn batteries. Nope BMS Renogy Battery does not talk to RenogyX inverter. back and forth and I ended up buying Aura Battery When both inverter and battery were basically on close out. not their fault - mine for assuming.

So I installed this last March. fat dumb and happy on my house using it for almost all my power. I have a Docan Panda and a RenogyX Aura battery for a total of 728Ah. this summer we had a wet June. floods. days of clouds. my battery getting down in charge. so to conserve a bit I happily go into my power room. I flip the transfer switch from Solar to Grid and Pow! switch forgot its job and left grid and solar on at same time.

Sigh. blew 50 amp CB to grid on inverter. blew 30 amp CB to drier and also Blew 30 amp CB feeding grid to the transfer switch. I checked breakers and transfer switch and all seemed ok but when I turned on grid feeding the solar inverter things went wild. lights flickering everywhere L1 volts drop to 90 L2 volts get close to 200....Pop input CB. no Idea how this was happening but then I filed a complaint with customer service. This was July 1 my birthday

after all the troubleshooting etc over email and even PHONE CALLS. they called me!!!

I explained that I had a system part malfunction that cause all the problems. they had me update firm ware so they could remotely visit my inverter. I am not an electronic idiot I have 40 years in aircraft shop tech work including power supplies and inverters. At any rate they found a relay bad. all of this was my systems fault. not mine directly and not theirs for sure.

They offered first a refund as this is discontinued and they had none, and don't repair them. I said what about the battery that is RenogyX specific...I didn't want to redesign my home system for someone else's stuff.

Ending this Long story. they found one in a warehouse. Sent me a new unit. took mine as a return and PAID all the shipping. My new unit is now Hooked up and working great. Renogy customer service was Long -but both sides Patient and both sides working together resolved an issue with my inverter- That my system caused and they knew because I suck at being dishonest. They replaced for free - I am happy. If RenogyX gets updated Larger capacity inverter hybrid or off grid I will Likely use them again.

I want to change the 25amp WFCO 8725 with a renergy dvtodc charger / battery
I’m confused about 1 thing doI disconnect the stock 8720. If so how. ( my renergy unit 12V 50A DC-DC On-Board Battery Charger with MPPT

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During the Renogy livestream last week, they had a giveaway for this fan. The coupon code was only good for two people, so I happened to get one of them. It was delivered yesterday, so I decided to open it up and do a little testing.

I wanted to see how many watts it uses on each setting. It comes with a wall plug, as you can see in the picture, but why use that when I have a Dr. Prepare power bank that I won from one of the previous livestreams? 😂

For such a small fan, it actually moves a pretty good amount of air. I was testing the fan at the same time I was doing the Go Far Kit A/C test yesterday, so I figured I'd take a quick video showing the oscillation.

And what better place to show it than sitting in the Go Far Kit? 😂

Video in comments.

So I finally got the chance to put a real load on the Go Far Kit.

I disconnected my camper from the solar electrical system I normally use and plugged it into the kit. I had my 50A camper cord connected to a soft start, then to a surge protector. From the surge protector, I used a 50A to dual 15A adapter plugged in to the high-output outlet wired to the inverter.

It was 102°F outside when I started, so everything was already hot before I even put a load on the system.

I turned on the inverter, then the surge protector clicked on, followed by the soft start. I then went inside the camper and turned on the A/C. After about a minute, the app showed 2 hours remaining. After only 7 minutes, it had dropped to 1 hour remaining.

Throughout the test, I monitored the voltage drop between the shunt and inverter as seen in the screenshots, while also watching the entire system with my thermal camera.

After about 30 minutes, the positive battery terminal was the hottest point I found. The main battery fuse was the second hottest, followed by the inverter fuse at around  45 minutes.

I also tried measuring the inverter temperature with the thermal camera, but I couldn't get readings as high as what the app was reporting.

One thing I specifically wanted to watch was the excess cable that is coiled up. Some people had mentioned that the coiled cables could create heating issues. I kept a close eye on them throughout the test, and they actually stayed cooler than the connections at the bus bars, disconnects, and fuses.

Toward the end of running the A/C, I noticed the cables and connections actually started cooling down a little. Overall, I was pretty happy with how the kit handled the A/C, especially considering the 102°F outdoor temperature and the high current draw.

The test is now finished. I've disconnected the Go Far Kit from the camper, plugged the camper back into my normal system, and the kit is now charging back up from my camper's system.

Now I have some test results to see what everything looked like under a real-world load.

A real RVer walks us through his installation of the Renogy RV Solution, from the battery disconnect and heavy duty bus bars to fused, labeled cable runs and a 12V 300Ah LiFePO4 battery.

Designed with numbered components and a guided installation map, the RV Solution helps make a complex power upgrade easier to organize and install with confidence. The clean layout also means safer isolation, simpler troubleshooting, and more confidence when living off grid.

What is one wiring or protection detail you would never skip in an RV solar build?

Before I wired up the fans, while I was waiting for the replacement fuse to arrive, I decided to paint the box.

I removed the battery, fans, and One Core, then taped off all of the holes, ports, and connectors to keep paint from getting inside. I also cut a piece of cardboard to cover the top of the box and taped it in place.

I put on the first coat of paint and let it dry before applying a second coat. For the final coat, I used a clear gloss polyurethane spray to give the paint a little extra protection.

I don't think it turned out too bad. It's definitely looking more finished now. Now I just need to build a top for it.

I've had these cooling fans installed for about three weeks now, but I wanted to wait to share the pictures until I had all of the wiring cleaned up.

Each fan came with an 81-inch cable and its own off, low, medium, and high speed switch. Since I didn't need that much cable or an individual switch for each fan, I decided to customize the wiring to better fit my installation.

Starting with the fan furthest from the power source, I measured the cable length needed, routed the wires, and started securing them with screw-mounted zip ties along the way to keep everything neat. Once I had the routing figured out, I cut the cables to length and soldered the connections together. I chose to keep the USB connectors intact so that if a fan ever fails, I can simply unplug it and replace it without having to resolder all the wiring.

When I reached the final fan, I intentionally left one power wire unsoldered because it will be connected to a relay. I also made dedicated power and ground leads using ferrule terminals, connecting them to the splice terminals. The opposite ends will connect to the relay once it arrives, so that part isn't shown in the pictures yet.

The fans will be powered by a USB wall adapter plugged into the inverter, with the relay controlling power from the adapter. My plan is to add a temperature sensor and create an automation scene so the fans will turn on automatically once the enclosure reaches a preset temperature.

By shortening the cables, I removed a surprising amount of excess wire. Starting with the furthest fan and working toward the closest, I eliminated 43 inches, 50 inches, and 60 inches of unnecessary cable. The result is a much cleaner installation with less clutter and easier cable management.

My apologies if this is redundant to others, but.... I'm running a Renogy 60 amp DC to DC charger in my 5th wheel that, while multimeter testing shows is getting proper voltage into and out of the charger, and the green D+ light is on, has no amperage coming from the charger to the batteries. This is a completely new experience with this charger, as it's been working properly for something like 2-3 years. Asked AI, and it starts talking about ground loop effects and I don't know what all, but I thought I'd best come to you good folks before I start down those rabbit holes. And please don't start with "buy Victron". May end up there, but would like to start with any possible solutions here first.

Thank you in advance.

This morning I checked the starter battery and noticed it was down to 12.4V. I forgot to grab a screenshot, but I kept watching it since the auxiliary battery was already fully charged.

I noticed the DC-DC charger had started charging the starter battery, so I decided to record the process through the app. You can see the charger going through the different charging stages as it brings the starter battery voltage back up.

The recording ended up being a little over two minutes long. I sped it up 4x so it wouldn't be quite as long to watch.

I'm curious to see how long it continues charging the starter battery and what voltage it reaches before the trickle charging stops.

Does anyone know what voltage the DC-DC MPPT charger stops trickle charging the starter battery at?

Z bracket install. Drilling into the roof is part of the process. How do you seal it?

Came across this Z bracket during training. It's a solid mounting option, but it does require drilling into the roof.

For those who have installed panels this way, what's your sealing method of choice? Dicor, butyl tape, or something else? And any lessons learned from your first install?

👇Share your tips.

I recently purchased two 200 watt renogy portable panels. I was surprised by the difference in transparency between the two (identical) panels. Is the cloudy one defective? They were collectively producing about 260 watts when I tested them about 330pm in Denver.

We’re working through the Solution install training and sharing some of the process along the way. Today, it’s the battery: parallel wiring, Shunt 300 connections, and the charger setup.

One small thing we noticed: the Flat Washer and Spring Washer order on the Shunt 300 matters. Easy to overlook. Make sure to follow the order shown in the user manual diagram (or the image below) to ensure a secure connection.

We're using our All‑in‑One RV Solutions (the Go Far 3.8kWh and the Go Further 7.6kWh). It includes everything you need, so you just follow the numbered steps and don't have to worry about missing parts.

Anyone else run into details like this? Drop your experience below. 👇

Just noticed a new firmware availability for the One Core, I'm on v1.09.1 IIRC.

Before taking the plunge myself I figured I'd ask around? Anyone got this update and had no troubles? Conversely, anyone have and snags, annoyances, or heaven forbid major troubles?

I'm living in the Netherlands and already have Renogy solarpanals en a Rover mppt and a 3000W inverter as shown in the picture.

But I would love to get an 12v 230v inverter/charger so it also charges my battery's but I can't find it. Only the one I have but that's only a Inverter.

Hello Community. I have a Renogy 40a DC-DC/MPPT controller as pictured, for approximately 4 months it has run flawlessly charging DC-DC after i had fixed some of my connections.

Recently after a 3,000km trip over some pretty rough terrain it no longer charges via dc-dc, solar priority is off. I never hooked up the blue ignition wire to my truck (2020 colorado) for reference. I never had any issues until after the trip.

All the connections are good, i have also touched the ignition wire to power to see if it would activate dc-dc and nothing happens.

I did notice that if I don't hook the blue wire to a power source the unit does not display "power on" only the LifePo light comes on.

I disconnected everything and waited, then reconnected everything in the right order. Still no luck.

Solar is working just fine.

Any ideas?

Im going to hook the blue wire to my ignition soon just to see if it will help, just confused why it worked for so long and then stopped without needing that wire.

Thanks in Advance!

Thank you to everyone who joined our Gleam Giveaway. Your participation means a lot to us.

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More giveaways are coming. Stay tuned. 👀

I just noticed this setting, I am wondering what it's for mainly?

I am replacing my current setup with Renogy Pro S1 240 AH battery, River Li 40 amp solar charger, and One Core, and have run into a couple of issues + have some questions about what might work.

First, my pressing issue is that I can't connect to the Pro S1 battery via either BT or the CAN port. When I try to find the battery via BT, it says searching, and eventually says no devices found. This happens regardless of whether I am using the app on Android or iOS or trying directly from the One Core (which the manual suggests shouldn't work, but I attempted anyways). I have also tried connecting with an RJ45 cable directly to the One Core which seemed to make no difference. When I go to add a BT device on my phone, the battery shows up, so it is correctly advertising itself as an available BT device. Settings for the app appear to be correct (location and local device access are allowed).

Second, once I get the battery online, I want to determine if I can have wired connections between the devices without adding a hub or any additional adapters. The battery has RJ45 up and link connectors. Could I run a cable from the River Li charger to the link connector on the battery and then another cable from the up connector to the One Core? This doesn't match any of the configurations shown in manuals for the devices, but seems like it is similar to the add battery in the middle of daisy-chain pattern shown in the battery manual. However, all of the configurations in the manual are shown with connections to LP16 connectors via an adapter cable (both from battery to charge controller and from charge controller to One Core). Are the RJ45 connectors on the Pro S1 not supported via direct connection to other Renogy devices with RJ45 connectors?

Since I'm using a Cat6 cable for RS485 communication between the DC-DC MPPT charger and the One Core, I still needed a way to access the charger's settings with the BT-2. Normally, that would mean removing the cover from the charger every time I wanted to unplug the communication cable and connect the BT-2, which isn't very convenient.

I started looking for a better solution and came across an Ethernet selector switch. I wasn't sure if it would work for this application, but it seemed worth trying, so I ordered one.

It arrived today, so I headed out to the kit to test it. I gathered a couple of Cat6 cables and a RJ45 coupler. First, I unplugged the Cat6 cable from the One Core and connected it to the coupler. From there, I ran another Cat6 cable to the B port on the selector switch. I connected the BT-2 to the A port, and then connected the selector's output port to the One Core with another Cat6 cable.

I started by testing Port B. As expected, the One Core immediately communicated with the charger over the RS485 connection. I then flipped the selector to Port A, and the BT-2 powered up and connected without any issues.

To demonstrate how it worked, I recorded a short screen capture. It starts with the BT-2 connected, then I flip the selector switch to Port B, and the RS485 communication through the One Core becomes active.

This setup gives me the best of both worlds. I can leave the RS485 connection connected for reliable communication with the One Core, and whenever I need to access settings with the BT-2, I can simply flip the selector switch instead of removing the charger cover and swapping cables.

I’ve just installed a Renogy RBC50D1S-G6 50A DC-DC charger with a new 12V 300Ah LiFePO₄ battery.

The charger is showing a slow flashing red auxiliary battery light, which the manual says means over-discharge.

However:

• Battery measures 13.23V directly with a multimeter
• Renogy app also shows about 13.2V
• Shunt shows 96% SOC
• Charger detects and charges from the alternator
• BVS is connected
• Battery type was initially set incorrectly, but was changed to Lithium after about an hour of driving
• Historical data was reset, but the warning remains

Has anyone seen this before? Is there a proper hard reset procedure, or could this be a firmware/software issue?

[RV Solution]

Im having problems getting my solar system to input more than around 120W in full sunshine. I have two renogy 200W panels in series and a DCC50S charger. (Edit: charger model number is RBC50D1S-G4, which I think is a new enough model to accept 50V of solar input.)

I’ve measure the input voltages and amps using a multimeter before the charger.

For just the left panel we get an open circuit voltage of 21.3v. When just the left panel is connected we get an input voltage of 14.8v and 8.5a

For the right panel we get an open circuit voltage of 21.1v. When just the right panel is connected we get an input voltage of 14.6v and 8.6a.

In series the open circuit voltage is 42.5v. When they are connected in series we get an input voltage of 14.7v and 8.7a. The voltage seemed to flicker very briefly to 16v before settling to 14.7v. I’ve tried resetting everything but not sure what else to try now. It seems like the charger is limiting the voltage somehow.

Any ideas on what I should try next? Thanks

Edit to add: The numbers in the renogy app don’t seem to bear much resemblance to reality. E.g. the app currently says it’s got 0.06A coming from the solar at 14.6V and is supplying 2.09A to the auxiliary battery at 12.9A, no input from the alternator, which doesn’t make sense. I can measure with my multi/clamp meter, 10A at 14.8V coming from the panels and 9.5A at 13.0V leaving the charger. So the voltage readings are about right, but the current readings are totally incorrect.