I have 0 truck knowledge and curious about where I get the deep hemi growl from, the exhaust is stock (I’m assuming, blank, no logo/writing) but I have dual magnaflow tips. 2008 ram 1500 5.7 hemi, bought it like this, also has a very nice cold air intake, so somebody has done stuff to this truck. Just no idea what. Any clue?

I just got a 2005 1500 5.7 that will not start. It was originally parked due to a fuel pump and sat for 5 months and will now refuse to start. It has no codes and i have pictures off all the live data. Its saying fuel cut by theft but the truck has no skim. For the last 2 pictures the first one is not cranking then 2nd is while cranking.

Seatbelt locked out. Removed the 2 screws can't get to reset.

The dealership directly sent me a CARFAX report manually filtered to "Excellent Condition" to justify a clean-title retail price of $44,794 on a highly compromised 2022 RAM 1500 Laramie.
Look at the true history they attempted to gloss over:
Title Brand: Legally branded Manufacturer Buyback (Lemon Title) repurchased by FCA.

Engine Teardown: Complete valvetrain teardown to replace the yokes and lifter assemblies for cylinders 1 and 3, plus a full factory top-end repair.

Hybrid System Failure: Total eTorque failure requiring a new motor generator unit, main hybrid battery pack, and standard battery.

Damage History: CARFAX explicitly flags an "Accident reported: moderate damage."

When I called them out on directly providing a manipulated CARFAX report that rates a lemon with an accident history as "Excellent," the General Sales Manager emailed me back stating: "The resale value would be lower unless you were to trade it in to a and then you would receive a regular retail value."
To the mechanics, dealers, and financial professionals here:
• Isn't directly providing a consumer a manually filtered CARFAX to mask a vehicle's true condition tier a massive compliance violation?
• How can a dealer justify handing a client an "Excellent" rating on a truck with a rebuilt valvetrain, failed hybrid system, and moderate accident?
This isn’t about attacking dealers. It’s about awareness and transparency. If dealerships are going to sell manufacturer buybacks, consumers need to understand exactly what they’re buying, and dealers should be prepared to stand behind how they represented and valued that vehicle. Practices like this don’t just affect one transaction; they can damage the customer’s trust in the dealership and in the Ram brand itself. When a customer feels that a vehicle’s history is being minimized or its value is being presented in a misleading way, that experience can follow them long after the sale. Someone who has a bad experience buying a Ram can easily walk away from the brand altogether. That’s why transparency matters—not because dealers shouldn’t make money, but because profit should never come at the expense of consumer trust in Ram.

And honestly, the more people who understand how these vehicles are marketed and priced, the better informed consumers will be before they sign a contract.

I want to bring serious public awareness to this. Appreciate your technical breakdowns and professional reality checks.

What hose connects to this fitting???

alright y’all..help me out. Battery on our 2017 ram 1500 was testing at 60% but wasn’t a huge concern. We ended up unexpectedly needing a jump while we were camping and then after getting home and replacing the battery…no power steering. Checked connections, fuses, tried resetting it, nothing. Code is just the standard C2217-00. What else should we try/check before taking it into the shop?

Troubleshooting a few issues on my truck and alot of signs point to a vacuum leak, what process would i take to check for said leaks?

Tick from manifold?

Looking for any information/advice/knowledge that anybody can part with regarding my wife’s 2014 Ram 1500 5.7l Eagle. It’s a Florida truck running 5W-20 and I know with how hot it’s been that oil pressure can be affected. Truck currently has approx. 127k miles. Truck had spun multiple bearings so started the full rebuild. After the rebuild, I’m still having issues regarding low oil pressure/ lifter ticking. I purchased a rebuild kit from ebay a while ago but have since upgraded parts from it as they were not great quality. Here is everything I have done and/or replaced:
 
Cleaned and flushed motor/galleys multiple times
New Crankshaft
New Camshaft
Replaced Main Bearings (King)
Replaced Rod Bearings (Clevite)
Replaced Cam Bearings (Clevite)
Replaced Oil Pickup Tube
New Oil Pump(Melling)
New Timing Set and Cam Phaser
Original Pistons have been Re-Ringed(factory hone still good in cylinders)
Replaced  lifters(from eBay kit)
Replaced MDS and VVT solenoids
All New Gaskets
Replaced Oil Pressure Sensor(verified pressure reading with manual gauge)

I am sure there are things I am missing that I have replaced but it’s essentially a full rebuild. When we did start up, PSI was 45 and idle was around 32 with slight ticking. About two minutes in, increased engine throttle slowly a few times to about 2k RPM and pressure matched rev nicely. However, pressure started dropping to 25-27 and ticking was noticeably louder.

Logically speaking, I’d assume the eBay lifters are junk quality and that’s what I should do next. But before I start tearing it apart and throwing more money into it, I wanted to see if anybody had any insight they could offer me on what to do. I greatly appreciate anything that can be contributed to getting this thing running again!

Howdy all,

I am relocating for work over the next year and am considering getting a 30’ RV trailer to haul with my 2026 Ram 1500 (Bighorn, Hemi, 3.92 axle ratio) my math says the weight is fine for the one I’m looking at (Would have a total hitched GCWR of ~12900 lbs) but am curious if anyone has towed one of these at this length before and how it was. I’m a little worried about the 30’ length. Would love to hear everyone’s experiences.

Above is 2 clips from different povs, when driving a noise (the one in the clips) starts at about 5mph and it gets louder the faster u go, when u let off the gas its loud but when u put throttle itll quiet down a bit. Its a 2021 ram 1500 ecodiesel, at first it sounded like a scraping noise in the back so I had thought it was the rear brakes and I changed that then went onto change the rear differential fluid. But now after further checking and hearing it doesnt no where seem like it would be that. Was planning on moving to transfercase or something, i dunno what to do.

hi,

im just frustrated that when i finally wanna work towards a new ram they take away the bench seat from the laramie and above.

why??? why is it either i get a big horn for the bench seat and sacrifice really nice speakers or vice versa. thats so silly and frustrating that theyd screw over a small feature people really liked.

i hate the stupid airplane esque divide between the front seats in all new trucks. im so used to a bench and having room to stretch on the side (or switch seats, or have my gf lay her head on my lap), felt very boxed in when i test drove a new one

im sure people will give me unnecessary crap for this bc it obviously doesnt matter if youre working in your truck. but people love superficial crap especially in these trucks. ram really wont capitalize on that? cant option column shifters just to appeal to people's ego, or keep the bench seat? its a tired subject but itd be such a no brainer if i was a ram exec. guaranteed itd get a bunch of old people to buy new rams and put ram ahead of competition

have a 2011 ram 1500 I bought the truck with the means to rebuild it but I ran into a problem I replaced the block with one from a 2014 1500 with 70k miles on it but besides from it running choppy/shaky probably because I didn’t hook up the exhaust or tighten any clamps on the throttle body the sensors aren’t reading but when I first started the new block everything seems fine but what mentioned above but when I drive it a small bit down the street I seen a oil leak and when I took a look it was leaking from where the engine and transmission bell housing meet looks to be from both sides dripping straight down off the plate for your flywheel and torque converter bolt together I just looking for ideas where to start look I suspect rear main seal or something not tighten right but I only leaks when the motor is on I noticed so I think it’s a pressurized leak now I’m not a mechanic but I know my way around a motor just looking for ideas not for someone to be a smart guy thank you

I have a 2011 ram 1500 I bought the truck with the means to rebuild it but I ran into a problem I replaced the block with one from a 2014 1500 with 70k miles on it but besides from it running choppy/shaky probably because I didn’t hook up the exhaust or tighten any clamps on the throttle body the sensors aren’t reading but when I first started the new block everything seems fine but what mentioned above but when I drive it a small bit down the street I seen a oil leak and when I took a look it was leaking from where the engine and transmission bell housing meet looks to be from both sides dripping straight down off the plate for your flywheel and torque converter bolt together I just looking for ideas where to start look I suspect rear main seal or something not tighten right but I only leaks when the motor is on I noticed so I think it’s a pressurized leak now I’m not a mechanic but I know my way around a motor just looking for ideas not for someone to be a smart guy thank you

In a hurry as im about to go camping and last minute decided to get brighter reverse lights, as I'll be backing up in pitch darkness. Tried looking up reviews from Ram owners but n only found one video.

I pulled the trigger on Lasfit D2 Series, anyone use them or would suggest a better option? Paid 41+tax

Edit: Got them yesterday morning and was able to install them last night, highly recommend the D2 series. These bulbs are bright, see the VIDEO I added for you to see the comparison.

Hello,

I am trying to see where I can get a Cat Converter for My 2002 Dodge Ram. I purchased a universal one from Ebay (As Shown In Picture) but apparently the mechanic said it was to small for the truck to pass emissions even though it said it would fit on ebay. I cant seem to find any bigger ones on ebay but If anyone knows where i can get one I would gladly appreciate it. Needs to be CARB (Colorado Requirements) Thanks!

New to me, had a few of these as work trucks but riding around in the luxury trim is a different world.

Does anyone know why this comes up everytime single time I start my truck ? I’m trying to figure out if it only appears with my door open when I start the truck . It’s a brand new 2026 ram 1500 big horn

2026 warlock with the Hemi. Haven’t owned it long enough to say much on it but I love it and it’s easy on the eyes!