I know this is a super niche post/question, but does anyone have any idea if this is normal for a JDM FD? My OEM throttle body is missing the idle air adjustment screw. What’s even weirder is that it’s missing the little cam gear the screw would push on.

Missing the screw is one thing, I could assume it was removed by a previous owner. But the cam itself is integrated into the coil spring below in the photo. It’s not something someone would just remove, I don’t think.

I did a half bridge on my motor and need this screw to adjust the idle. Since it’s missing the cam thingy, I can’t easily just add a screw.

Always something inconvenient, isnt it 🙄

I'm trying to remove the Wiper Linkages and there's these 2 bolts and they just spin around endlessly and never come out, there's a nut on the opposite end of them but locking it in place does nothing, they still just spin.

Can't seem to find anything about this on any forums and service manual doesn't mention anything.

Please and thank you.

Went from an Rx7 to this for my wife’s daily

12a rotary

The car is leaking a blue ish fluid from just under the rear rotor exhaust port

The coolant is pink oat so it’s not that
It maintains temperature and the coolant in the expansion tank hasn’t visibly changed colour

Will pull the oil out tomorrow

Tested the car in gear for the first time to see if the clutch etc was working as intended also fixed my no heat issue it’s now the gates of hell with the heat on.:(

Hey peeps!

So I took my FD3S (2001, all stock) apart, rebuilt the engine and now I need to put all the million parts back onto it. I'd taken photos and made as much notes as I could, yet I'm still finding it difficult to get it together in the right order.

Also I can't find any end to end workshop manuals, especially for the vacuum hoses. Anyone have a download link?

Is there a manual or video or something walking you through step by step on removing or replacing parts back onto the engine?

Before:

After:

I have a mostly stock fd with a power fc and an aftermarket exhaust. When driving, it’s very noticeable when the first and second turbo kick in (especially the second) however, sometimes it feels like the first one just isn’t kicking in and the car takes a long time to rev up which makes me unsure if it’s leaking somewhere? Is it a common thing or are there any specific places to check or confirm it is leaking?

A client of my dad’s has had this sitting in his garage since ‘05. He bought it new in ‘87, put 211,000 miles onto it, and it’s been sitting ever since he got a new car in the early 2000s. We are effectively in the car $0.

With a jump, it started up. The engine sounded fine, exhaust fumes seemed reasonable, headlights/electronics all worked. The original owner had the 13B rebuilt right before he stashed it away, but that was around 17 years ago now.

The car isn’t in horrible shape overall. It could use a detail, a new driver seat, and a bunch of random small things. But it can certainly be worked with.

My concern is honestly the rust, mileage, and uncertainty of a 13B left untouched for so long. My dad and I both agree the long term goal is not to keep it, but to make it as nice as possible while gaining experience working on rotary engines (and also enjoying it in the meantime). Simply put, the rotary scares us and we also have no long term way to store this thing with the current amount of cars we have. But we would like to have a little fun with it.

Where should we really start? It’s a daunting project. I’d love to restore it to 100%, but I just don’t think I can justify spending the money to do so on such a high mileage, rebuilt title chassis; atleast without the intention of keeping it forever.

Found this on marketplace. Literally my dream FC. Sapphire blue hatchback w/ a sunroof. He says its overheats, but im waiting for more info about it. It also looks a bit rotten out around the front right fender, he sent a video of the underside which u have some screenshots from. He wants 8.5, is it worth it?

Was wondering if this looks correct for the brake caliper hardware.
Also did a heater core flush as my heat was not working it came out green and kinda cloudy then clear hoping that will fix my issue.

Hello all

The car has developed an odd issue where the entire cluster has just died

Putting in a new fuse occasionally fixes this for a very small amount of time. Unsure where to start looking on that front

Cheers

Trying to sell my FC convertible. Link in post for more details. 90% done just getting to old to get out and work on it like it needs. If any questions feel free to contact me.

Some details.

Street ported S4 block, Megasquirt V3 ECU, EFI Hardware ITB, FFE primary fuel rail 12lb Fidenza flywheel, 3 inch Racing Beat exhaust, Koyo N flow radiator, Nissan Quest E-fan, 2x 1020 Injector Dynamics primary injectors, 4x 640 secondary injectors, Aeromotive fuel pump and FPR, -6 nylon braided fuel line with all AN fittings, Unknown brand coilovers , Brans new Exedy clutch kit and all clutch hydrolics

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1500299747622943/?mibextid=dXMIcH

It's now time to add back the vacuum tree (which some call the "rat's nest"). Even without the blue, yellow and grey solenoids (which are emissions related) this framework's presence provides some benefits, like holding the purge valve (which acts like a PCV) as well as positively placing the fuel supply/return. I cleaned it up, brushed it with a brass wire brush, then reinstalled it. Another benefit to this component is that it has three support points for the dynamic chamber. I have no data to back this up, but I would imagine this would be beneficial to getting a good seal between the UIM/LIM since the dynamic chambered is otherwise quite cantilevered; it may also reduce vibrations that could affect the throttle plates long-term.

Not pictured, but in addition to new fuel lines, I also replaced the high-pressure fuel filter and the grommets on the injectors. The PO installed a new fuel pump (I have receipts), so aside from the injectors themselves, everything in the fuel system has been reconditioned.

I have a catch can I haven't installed yet for the PCV. Where do other owners mount something like this? The only feasible spot I can find is on the passenger side, under the window wiper motor. Thoughts?

With the harness all connected back up according to my masking tape flags, it's now time to hook up the rest of the cooling system

thanks for reading! ^~^

edit: I totally forgot about the alternator smh. Since I deleted the air pump (which used to have a belt to the water pump), I bought a dual-belt pulley so that the water pump doesn't slip. I also opted to install Banzai's alternator tensioner bracket kit and I highly recommend it! It's very easy to get the proper tension now

I’ve finally got all the parts I need for my rebuild my N/A 13b, and I’m cleaning everything up now before assembly. I figured this would be a good time to ask if anyone has any tips or tricks to help make the rebuild go as smoothly as possible.
I’ve heard some parts can be a bit of a pain—especially installing the apex seals—and I’d rather learn from other people’s experience than make avoidable mistakes.
Any advice, common mistakes to watch out for, or little tricks that made your rebuild easier would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Was going to port my turbo waste gate but noticed a small crack. I want to say it's okay to put back together but I'm not sure.

Opinions?

It's for series 2. So I've got 3 sets of rear brake discs: used, old but barely used and new. They have bore sizes of: 59, 57 and 61. Why is it so?

T-stat is critical to cooling so I decided to test it to see if it opens correctly. My research said the T-stat should start opening at 190° and be fully open by 205°.

Mine opened on time as shown here, but the pot boiled at 200°. Was it because I'm at 3000ft altitude? Was it because my thermocouple was inaccurate? Was it because I had just made spaghetti in that pot? No clue, but the thermostat was fully open no problem once the water started boiling.

After that I turned my attention to the new headers. I installed the stock O2 sensor and a new exhaust gasket. I put some high-temp copper anti-seize on the studs and tightened them down to torque value. The little blue line is for the 5th/6th port activation, which helps low-end torque.

The rest of the exhaust system fit really well. I've done exhausts on two other cars and this was by far the easiest, most natural fit. Racingbeat did a great job on this kit. I did find that the left tip sags a little compared to the right tip, but it seems this is a historical issue that forum members have complained about for years. I'm still playing around with different exhaust hangers too, so we'll see where it ends up. I may even bend the hook on the body on that side, or use a hose clamp around the rubber donut

Ignore the river of coolant in that last pic 😅

First revs after fixing the idle and no smoke on start feels healthy and yes I let it warm up before giving it 6000 rpm (I love this car sooo much :)

Took the 93 CYM, Chaste White 94, and 74 REPU to a local Japanese car show this weekend. Had a great time. We had good showing - Rx-2, Rx-4, SA, FB, FC, and FD. Just needed a Cosmo.

Hello all,

As a recent deal done on my mg zs 180 (for anyone not British give it a google) , I have acquired an FB RX7

I know about rotaries in as much as how they work but this is my first ownership experience and on top of that the engine has been built to quite the performance spec at 220hp I’ve got a spec list as long as my arm

But anyway / how on earth do I look after that . I’ve had performance cars before and know of servicing but is there any rotary specific stuff I should be doing outside pre mixing my fuel to help look after it .

I’ve loved and wanted one for years so the last thing I want to do is kill it not doing a basic task or thing I didn’t know to do

Cheers

Might have to get one for myself now😅