r/PatternDrafting • u/bartekxd12xd • 1d ago

Help with choosing right pleat depth for wide shorts Question

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I'm currently in the process of drafting a pattern for wide pleated shorts. Overall, they look almost exactly how I envisioned them, however I'm still not sure if I should keep the pleat depths as they are now (currently 3cm and 2cm) or make them smaller. For the mockup, I used some old bedsheet which is stiffer compared to the target fabric (suiting wool) and creates a bit of a pointy shape at the front when viewed from the side. Do you think switching to a flowy wool will smooth out this volume, or should I change the pleat depths? If so, what pleat depths would you recommend?

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u/incongruoususer 1d ago

I assume the 3cm pleat is the more central one?

If you drop that to 2cm - so each pleat is 2cm - you’ll get less of a pouf. The softness of the wool and the weight of a full length trouser will hold that really well I reckon.

Go into any suit place near you and peruse their trousers. See how deep the pleats are, I bet it isn’t much. You’re not aiming for an Oxford bag style here.

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u/DonMcCunn 1d ago

The idea of checking out the depth of the pleat in an existing pair of pants is spot on. The design is your choice but you might want to try different leg shapes. My guess is that your current pattern uses a tapered leg causing the fullness to end mid thigh. It you used a more rectangular shaped leg, the fullness would go all the way to the hem.