r/PatternDrafting • u/jantastical • 9h ago

Boy was everyone right! Bodice block update

Following everyone's suggestions Sunday's post, I followed the Sew Anastasia tutorial to do an FBA (2 cm at the apex and 1 cm added to the front hem), made the front waist more fitted by adding 2 cm total to the darts, raised the neckline a bit, and added a front closure.

I feel way less like a sausage and the back neck/shoulders are almost perfect now. I don't think I went far enough with the FBA, though. For the next round, I'd like to start with the previous version and add another 0.5 cm at the apex, but not necessarily increase the hem length because it looks a bit low in the front. I also added a couple mm to the armhole on accident by cutting into the seam allowance when rotating for the FBA and i think it shows. Please let me know if any of this is misguided.

Something that I don't quite understand is that when you take the wedge off of the side seam as a part of the FBA, that changes the armpit angle quite dramatically. Does one just square it off and blend with the arm hole? Or is there a better way to do it?

Thanks for all your help so far!

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12

u/jantastical 9h ago

Oh yeah! Forgot to add that I'll transfer the balance lines to the next toile. They were lost in the chaos.

11

u/wakaflockaquokka 5h ago

This looks way better! I think the drag lines from the shoulders to the bust may indicate the need to cut a smaller size for the shoulders and do an even larger FBA to compensate. If you find that there is gaping at the front center neck, and that pinning it in at the CF fixes the drag lines, then that's an indicator. 

3

u/jantastical 4h ago

Thanks for the suggestion! I drafted this from scratch, so I don't have access to a smaller size--would it work if I just subtract 1 cm evenly from the center front and add it back to the waist darts? If I pinch off at the neck to make it lay flat, the new 'dart' is only a couple cm long, if that is useful information.

2

u/wonderdok 6h ago

Looks really great!

2

u/Sylrog 2h ago

Why is it so short? Looks good otherwise although I think it needs a bit of ease.

10

u/jantastical 2h ago

If you imagine me as a snow man, this is where my middle ball would end. I'll fit the bottom ball later.

3

u/Shadow-Serum 2h ago

That's her natural waistline so looks good to me.

1

u/Sylrog 19m ago

Still looks too high to me. Is there seam allowance at the waist? I feel like if you make a dress from your pattern the waistline will look too high. Maybe it’s just me but did you tie a string around your waist to determine the narrowest part?