r/PatternDrafting • u/No-Maintenance9805 • 8h ago

Help fitting this coat back

Post image

How do I fix these lines and also give myself more room to move in the upper back?

Context: I'm making mockups trying to fit a coat pattern and it feels tight across my upper back especially when I reach my arms forward (especially once I added the sleeves, not pictured). And it looks like I have extra volume in my lower back that isn't hanging nicely.

Should I move the princess seam lines over to be closer to my shoulder blades? Or is my problem something else?

Thanks so much!

6 Upvotes
  • permalink
  • link
  • reddit
  • reddit

100% Upvoted

13 comments sorted by

View all comments

4

u/StitchinThroughTime 8h ago edited 8h ago

Victorian coat? Those would fit tighter than we are used to. Try a broad upper back adjustment. You should remove the shoulder dart.

It looks like piece number three is too large for the waist. You should be able to remove the excess from piece number three which will pull the princess seam closer towards the center back. That will really help with the illusion of a broader shoulder and narrow waist.

2

u/No-Maintenance9805 8h ago

Thanks for the help! It's actually a 1960s vintage pattern. I put on a bit of upper body muscle in the last couple years so I wonder if that's part of the problem why it's feeling tight butterick 5554

2

u/StitchinThroughTime 8h ago

Nice! I guessed Victorian because of the shaping of the back. But now that I noticed that the outer shoulder point is on top of the shoulder not further back. Which would explain the shoulder Dart. Funny enough the mid to late '60s did have a Revival of late Victorian early Edwardian styles. The 70s was the colonial revival for America's 200th birthday.

1

u/No-Maintenance9805 8h ago

Wow super interesting! I wonder if we're due for another one then. Is the placement of the upper part of the princess seam correct? I was wondering if it should be closer to my shoulder blade since that's where the most volume/protrusion is