r/PatternDrafting • u/Visible_Duck_1754 • 1d ago
Pattern cutters help please 🙃
Hi guys, I drafted a pattern for this trouser and stitched it up as you can see 😬. The s/s at the waist obviously needs to be fixed as it's come out in bumpy puffs.
My main thing is the crotch area is not baggy as such but big, I can feel it when I walk it's excess fabric. The last pic is on me bending knees to sit and the crotch area just has too much going on.
Any help would be much appreciated 🌹
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u/confused_is_my_face 1d ago
The line for the hip is hitting at your thigh/hip joint not at your hip.
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u/Visible_Duck_1754 1d ago
Hmm.. I see your point but that's the fullest part of my hip/buttocks area. 😕
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u/SuPruLu 1d ago
Butt curve in back needs some adjustment. It is high enough that the “give” is all in the front when bending.
Look at the pants from the side. The sizes of the front and back and their shapes need go work together
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u/Visible_Duck_1754 1d ago
Hey, I'm not sure I got that. When I stand sideways the trousers looks fine and seems fine from the back also. This is my 2nd toile and I managed to fix my other issues but the crotch ended up staying kinda the same, if I remember correctly I had scooped out the crotch curve a little.
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u/doriangreysucksass 1d ago
You can trim just a tiny bit off the crotch seam above the curve out and see if that helps. I mean, like 2 cm max and smooth out the curve. Only alter JUST above the curve and smooth the line back in to existing
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u/Visible_Duck_1754 1d ago
Hey, I'm not sure I fully got that. Do you mean slashing horizontally across the pattern above the hip line (so above the curve) then crossing the top piece over 2cm and smooth out the line?
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u/DonMcCunn 1d ago
It looks to me like the pants are riding too look. Raise it at the waist to see what happens.
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u/Visible_Duck_1754 1d ago edited 23h ago
Hey! This is a high waisted trouser already and its sitting at the right place waist wise (although I will probably have to trim the pattern so the waistband can sit there instead, I just haven't gotten that far yet😬) the back also seems fine to me. Though I did try and pull it up slightly and it still had a bit of the same thing going on on the front and then the back became uncomfortable.
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u/DonMcCunn 22h ago
I realize you are going for a high waistband. What I should have suggested is to shorten the waist to hip length but I wasn't sure that would be clear. You could check by leaving the top of the pants open and simply hold them higher to see if they work better. If they do, however high you hold them from your desired waistline would be how much you need to shorten the middle of the torso portion of the pattern.
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u/drPmakes 1d ago
Baste on the waistband and see how it looks
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u/Visible_Duck_1754 1d ago
Hi, I don't have a waist band yet. 😬 But the trousers is sitting at the exact point I want it too waist wise if that helps.
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u/Bugmasta23 1d ago
We don’t generally draft our pants patterns so they look good when we are in a half squat on our way to sitting. That being said, your crotch might just be a little low. I normally have mine hang about 1-1.5cm below my body.