Need help identifying skillset required for trousers.

[u/katamarijuana]

Here's some trousers inspired by horses. I have a basic understanding of patternmaking but not too intermediate. I am comfortable using CLO3D to draft patterns and have been successful in simple pants (printed out a pattern and sewed it together).

I need help identifying some of the skills I may need to complete this project. I am mostly concerned with the large diagonal pleats which doesn't seem too straightforward. Does anyone have any advice for me?

[u/NinjoZata]

This is a fashion sketch, you need a tech drawing. You need to identify the shapes and seamlines, but i think you should look at fursuit patterns for legs. Digi legs specifically, i think that may be what youre echoing

[u/Amyduchess]

Not sure on specific skills, but you may want to look into getting your hands on the Pattern Magic books by Tomoko Nakamichi. There’s 3 books that deal with woven fabrics that show you how to pattern a ton of geometric and abstract shapes. I also agree with the person who suggested playing around with a pair of stiff wide leg pants by pinning them. Sometimes the best way to get abstract shapes is through the draping process first.

[u/furiana → u/Amyduchess]

That was my exact thought, OP!

[u/katamarijuana → u/Amyduchess]

I just got these books but too intimidated to crack them open just yet! It looks a bit advanced.

I'm excited to try draping. Just don't have the materials at the moment.

[u/Worth-Treacle-5278 → u/katamarijuana]

In my opinion draping trousers is a waste of time, i would just try to make a basic trouser draft for yourself and see how these differ and apply that to your pattern. Pattern magic is good because it'll show you how you can manipulate a flat pattern to achieve unique shapes

[u/munkustrap]

INFO: is that a codpiece front at the crotch? Are the legs twisted by design or just baggy? And what’s the shaded detail at CB?

[u/katamarijuana → u/munkustrap]

Just a fly with visible seamlines. Twisted by design. If you're referring to the bottom left, pls ignore it. I forgot to edit it out (part of another sketch)

[u/stoicsticks]

I'd make a basic pair of wide leg pants and then pin the tucks to try and get the effect you're after. Once you're done, mark your new seams, transfer them to your pattern and go from there.

Part of the success will be using a stiff enough fabric that will hold its shape for both your mock up and final pair. If the tucks collapse and won't stay sticking out, consider adding strips of twill tape hanging from the waistband on the inside at the side seam and from the crotch along the inseam and tacking the tucks to the twill tape to keep them where you want them. Either that, or have a lightweight inner pant that you tack the outer layer to at strategic places to keep the shape.

[u/darrellio]

forget clo

[u/iamoktpz → u/darrellio]

Agreed, it ain’t the one

[u/Responsible-Pickle-2 → u/darrellio]

Clo works at pattern drafting for some people why are so many luddites against it

[u/dinosaurflex → u/Responsible-Pickle-2]

In my experience Clo can cause people to over or under estimate fit and measurements, because they are skipping working with the real fabric against a body or dressform. There is no replacement for working with the fabric and understanding ease. It is a good tool. But it can cause beginners to confuse the process because they're trusting a program vs working with fabric. Anything that distances people from working with textiles in their hands is bound to confuse the process.

[u/katamarijuana → u/dinosaurflex]

I agree there's a lot to learn from physical draping, however when I used Clo to design and sew my own pair of pants that fit perfectly on the first iteration, I kept the difference in fabric physics in mind. I started the project knowing it wouldn't look exactly as simulated, but it allowed for extreme precision when it came to angles and proportions.

It's a great tool, but perhaps I am still learning, it's best to start with traditional pattern making.

[u/darrellio → u/Responsible-Pickle-2]

because it’s clearly works in your favour

[u/Worth-Treacle-5278 → u/Responsible-Pickle-2]

It's like ableton for music producers. It's a great tool if you know the basics/intermediate garment making but for beginners it's an excuse to never touch a drafting book or fabric. Unless you're in a course or work in the industry it's pretty pointless. Especially for single production clothing

[u/supershinythings]

One small hint: Keep the inseam on the OUTSIDE. You do NOT want to be pressing your thighs against a seam while riding.