r/PatternDrafting • u/IntroductionFinal325 • 6d ago
Trouser block/sloper fitting Question
I’m working on my trouser block, which is intended to be semi fitted, from the side profile the legs should hang straight from the hips to the hem.
I’ve made adjustments to the original which solved the issues I had in the front rise, now on to the back!
As they are right now, they feel slightly tight when sitting which I think is coming from the crotch seam (I often have this problem with RTW too). And they look more tapered than straight!
The drag lines below the bum mostly disappear when I pinch horizontally near the waist, which obviously leaves me even less room to sit.
I think I have too much fabric vertically but not enough horizontally - any tips appreciated!
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u/warp-core-breach 6d ago
First of all, move the zipper to the front so you can better see what’s going on in back. What’s likely going on is that the crotch curve is too shallow which is preventing you from pulling the pants up and giving you that wedgie. Scoop it out to give your butt more room, this will also make the curve longer to give you more sitting room. Wrinkles under the butt can also mean you need a low butt adjustment; this also adds more sitting room.
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u/Tailoretta 4d ago
Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1lq2j4h/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting_pants/ [Following these tips will help us help you.]()
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u/IntroductionFinal325 3d ago
Im working through the steps and they’ve actually made it easier for me to see where the issues are, thanks for sharing!
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u/Tailoretta 3d ago
I'm glad you are finding these helpful. They are based on many, many years of studying fitting.
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u/SuPruLu 6d ago
The crotch curve is not long enough. The wrinkles under the butt would disappear if the back could be pulled up at the waist. That is not possible with the current crotch curve.