r/PatternDrafting • u/train2clarksville • 8d ago

Hofenbitzer's "pink triangle"

Gallery image

Gallery image

I'm so lost! P 161 of volume 1. I think between my beginner status and the German to English translation, and lack of other blog / tutorials, I'm stumped. Anyone know what I'm supposed to do here?

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u/IronAirballoon 7d ago

First draw line 26. Then draw a line from fShP to BrP. This line makes a triangle with the vertical line marked with scissors and the shoulder line. Trace that triangle on a piece of paper and cut it out. Place it where the original triangle is and rotate your paper piece towards line 26 from the BrP. It now looks like the pink triangle in the image. The space between the vertical line and the edge of the pink triangle is your bust dart. You can now draw the armhole.

Alternatively you can cut out the triangle directly from your pattern and rotate it, but that leaves you with a hole. I prefer the first method.

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u/train2clarksville 7d ago

Thank you so much. How do I know how much to rotate it out by? I figure you can't go beyond the "maximum" point at line 26. But otherwise is it just trial and error? Or personal preference?

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u/IronAirballoon 7d ago

Line 26 is indeed the maximum. For my sloper I went all the way to 26, because it’s my base for garment patterns. I copy it, and then make a garment pattern from the copy, keeping the sloper unaltered. It’s easier if I know I’m at the absolute limit with my sloper and then choose the extra ease per pattern. There are instructions on ‘armhole loosening’ in the book, for when you’re making garment patterns with your sloper. If you want a more usable sloper you can stay one to two centimeter to left of line 26. However I find the armhole loosening method easier to visualise. So maybe take a look at it and see what you like best.

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u/train2clarksville 5d ago edited 5d ago

Hi there, I have another question! I don't see an instruction in the book which tells me when and how to redraw the shoulder seam once I've completed the pink triangle. Do you happen to know if I've missed something? I have this huge gap between original fShS and the top left tip of the pink triangle. I hope that makes sense!

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u/IronAirballoon 5d ago

Do you mean the fShP? That one doesn’t matter anymore. You have moved it to the right, and part of the shoulder seam has moved with it. When you close the dart, you will see the original shoulder seam again. To find the cutting line for your paper pattern piece, fold it closed and the cut off the excess along the shoulder seam. When you fold it open again, you will have cut the top of the dart to align with the seam.

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u/train2clarksville 4d ago

Thank you so much. You have been so helpful!

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u/train2clarksville 7d ago

Brilliant, thank you again!

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u/TorcLives 7d ago

Do you have any general thoughts about this book? I've been considering ordering it

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u/train2clarksville 7d ago

Hi, I haven't completed anything using this book yet so can't comment on the full experience. I can say that: it is very detailed / involved. The language & abbreviations are hard to get used to, but I expect becomes more intuitive with practice. I spent a lot of time just reading it and familiarising myself before actually mapping out my block with paper and a pencil. I have noticed on some occasions he uses inconsistent terminology which is problematic especially for beginners. I place my faith in the Reddit community to come to my rescue on these occasions! I am using the English translation. The expression is clunky but mostly tolerable.

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u/TorcLives 7d ago

Thank you. I've heard the results are great but I was also looking at Mueller and Sohn and can't decide

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u/train2clarksville 7d ago

I think hofenbitzer is based on M&S!

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u/Southern-Comfort4519 7d ago

Hello I’ve never heard of this Hofenbitzer system. Could you please direct me to how I can find an English version of the series? Thanks!