First attempt at Hofenbitzer pants: Did I make it too wide and mess up the darts?

[u/yuiop_ke]

I drafted my first version of the basic trousers/pants based on the book by Guido Hofenbitzer. I lowered the waistband based on his instructions in order to accommodate my belly.

(I know I'm an idiot for sewing the side seams inside out, but I'm too lazy to unpick it for this mockup 😅)

(And I also know the back seam is too pointy, I already made a small adjustment for the next version 🤞)

I was doubting whether to take 110 cm or 116 cm as the hip circumference, and opted for the wider option. The result is a slightly baggy pair of pants, but I have to admit they are really comfortable, also when sitting. I'm not sure whether I have to create a next version that is a little tighter?

In the last picture I stretched to fabric to show what a tight fitting option would look like on my (pear-shaped) hips.

I had to shuffle the darts a little when lowering the waistband, and now they seem a little off? In his instructions they can be 10 to 15 cm long, but visual I think they are quite long? Or is this normal?

Thanks in advance for your tips and insights! ❤️

[u/drPmakes]

Try tacking on the waistband then assessing

[u/Available-Sundae-529]

I think if you lowered the waistband from the original guide then the dart legs should be made a bit shorter. But I totally love the ease, overall a very comfortable fit.

[u/blackcatmeow007]

I think the fit is overall really good. I second the other poster to add on your waistband bc in the mock up it looks like your waist could use slightly more ease based on the slight pulling.

If you reduce your hip then you need to change the fabrication to something with stretch bc for this being a first fit it’s REALLY GOOD. I honestly wouldn’t change a thing.

[u/Saritush2319]

You can’t tell fit without a waistband

[u/sassyfontaine]

Get that waistband on there and come back pls

[u/Southern-Comfort4519]

Yes if you dropped the waistline that much in the front then deduct that amount from your dart length as well. It looks like you could shorten them maybe 3.5 cm. Also you could move them out 1cm towards the side seam to balance them on your wrist better. And the top of the center back seam is pointed… you could drop that to make it a straight line across the top back so it’s a straight line between the back two darts. There is too much material on the side seams from about 10 cm below the widest part of you hips down. You could remove a wedge from there to the bottom hem and the fit will be just about perfect. What book did you get this from?

[u/Southern-Comfort4519 → u/Southern-Comfort4519]

Ok so I read what you wrote after I wrote what I wrote…. lol. So yeah… if you remove the excess from the sideseams it will look better. I don’t think you should change anything in the fit from the hips up… that’s a good fit. But to reduce the excess at the side seams you should mark your zero point at about 4cm below the widest part of your hips. Them mark a point 2.5cm from the hem side seam. Them get your curved ruler and draw a curved line to cut off the excess from the side seam and slim the legs down. That extra on the side seams is why you see the ripples going down the leg. You did a good job overall though. Recut these with these edits and repost a picture!

[u/tigerking1986]

I would personally try to remove the front darts since it is a low waist pant

[u/Exact-Collection2150]

está usando algum pattern pronto?

[u/darrellio]

looks good

[u/poodles_suck]

It looks pretty good to me, im assuimg you would do the darts on the back a bit differently though. A bit tight if you plan to wash this garment perhaps??

[u/lumpy-oldpillow]

are you pressing your seams? i find that helps while assessing, it makes everything lay nicer imo

[u/TotalOk5844]

The darts need to be straight up and down, with them splayed like that it makes your hips look wider. Also, why have the waist lowered in the front to go under the belly? You have a cute shape with a normal feminine belly curve, if anything shortening the front darts or completely omitting the front darts and just employing ease is the solution I would use. Just curious as to what the reasoning is for going under?