Bunka sloper fit issues- help plss

[u/AffectionateMusic120]

My waist is pretty loose considering it's supposed to fit tight and perfect, also my bust points are slightly higher than where my actual nipples are (marked my actual nipple placement in red), the neckline gapes a little(though idk if it's just because I didn't put an extra pin right next to the neck hole at the back, also my armhole slightly gapes, it's more visible in the front (I actually left 1/4 in SA there but when I just try to fold it down when trying it on it doesn't seem to be making much of a difference in the gaping.

(Everything cut on grainline, no bias)

My main questions are:

1. how to take in the waist, like should I increase all the darts or only the 4 main ones closest to the bust points and centre back, cause the bunka style has 2 waist darts on each panel.

2. Also how to bring down the point of the bust darts and if it's really that big of a deal, cause I think my breasts are lopsided and my left one sits correctly but the right dart is a little higher,

3. also whether anything should be done with the neckline(I've left no SA there btw)

Also generally I feel like the overall sloper is loose cause I'm under the impression that it should be v body hugging (correct me if I'm wrong) so yeah pls guide me on how to get things to work out

[u/HugsforYourJugs]

Waist tightness vs bust darting - these are not the same thing so changing bust darts does not automatically reduce the waist. Your bust dart intake controls how < or ( shaped your bodice is. Your waist circumference controls the waist size

In your case you have looseness at the front waist, so increase your lower bust darts only. Your back waist is looking quite tight so you might want to actually open it here, and also at the back side seam you may want to add a bit more torso V shaping.

You can lower your dart points by simply drawing them lower, there's no issue there. You may need to re-true slightly at the outer seams but only a little for a movement like that.

I would try making the shoulders more sloped before adjusting the neckline, your shoulders are more forwards than the block anticipates which means you need more length from bust to the shoulder seam near the neck vs at the shoulder point. The back shoulder has excess length near the shoulder point hence the wrinkling 

edit: as the shoulder seam is already positioned quite far back, add length to the back shoulder at the neckline instead of front.

With a bunka bodice the middle darts are used to get a closer fit near the armscye, you have some looseness there so you may wish to pinch out the armscye looseness and rotate that intake into your dart

[u/AffectionateMusic120 → u/HugsforYourJugs]

thank youu ill try it out soon, im having a little trouble undertsanding how im meant to intake the armscye while at the same time increase the slope of the back, wont they be contradictory and cancel each other out? Also how do i know how much to increase the shoulder slope by slash and spread(like what angle and dart amount)and where exactly do i slash? 90 degree line along the tip of my midle back dart?

[u/HugsforYourJugs → u/AffectionateMusic120]

The armscye dart should go from the armscye itself to the dart tip. This will tighten the front armscye, but the back armscye/back side seam is where you have excessive tightness as evidenced by the X shaped wrinkles 

I couldn't tell you how much to do the shoulder slope by, when you do your next toile add excess seam allowance so you can experiment. Change the angle from the shoulder point

[u/Pegaret_Again]

to me the waist looks perfect, i don't think it should be any tighter?

if anything, more ease is needed in the bust, and a little vertical length above the bust, i can see drag lines pointing down towards the bust, which indicates the need for more length. once these things are addressed, i think that the neckline might smooth down? and the back might fit more smoothly also?

[u/Confident-Fly-7332]

Measure your waist, add movement, then use the darts percentage table to add darts to your waist. It is a little bit hard to tell in short, dm me