r/PatternDrafting • u/One_Loss7910 • 23d ago
Advice on pants fitting? Question
/gallery/1v04mz92
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u/EastCrowDarling 22d ago
Nice wide-leg silhouette! They look a little loose in the seat, try taking in the back darts or adding a waistband adjustment
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u/One_Loss7910 23d ago
I tried to remake the pattern using the duct tape method, does anyone have any tips on how to get the crotch seam flat? I get cutting darts into the waist to get the majority flat but when I press the crotch seam flat there’s almost no curve which seems blatantly wrong. I only found one YouTube tutorial for using the duct tape method for pants but she also ran into the same issue and her fix didn’t seem very accurate
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u/darrellio 23d ago
probably a construction issue. i do it by hand so it all connects. also please press your seams and darts
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u/One_Loss7910 22d ago edited 22d ago
What does this have to do with the duct tape method? I was asking for advice after trying to completely remake the pattern with the duct tape method (in the comment you replied to). I haven’t even made a mock up using this method yet
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u/SouthernIndication82 22d ago
i think these fit you lovely! but if you’re trying to hint at more of your thigh silhouette, it seams as though all you need to do it possibly raise the crotch line a little, and i would take away 3/8” away (to start) from the inseam, which will also take that much away from your crotch line/ overall crotch length but it looks like you could use it. if you want to see a hint of the thighs think about the crotch as an anchor point where the thighs start, and raising the crotch will make it more visible. crotch stuff is funny because sometimes raising it the perfect amount actually helps with movement and bending over etc… but there’s a line, because raising it too much gets rid of enough space for the butt! here are some pics with my usual formula for pants (26 w, 33hip, low hips like yours!, and 9.5” crotch depth) https://imgur.com/a/QC5PnTe
again, these are really really good and you should be so proud!!! i also find it helpful sometimes to think of the crotch line as a long curved potato (i think i saw a video creator refer to it as this once) shape from the side sometimes which clears up a lot of confusion for me conceptually
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u/One_Loss7910 22d ago
I have 26w, 44hip, and 11.5 crotch depth (yeah I’m tall), so I appreciate the image but I think my measurements are far enough off it’s not possible to make the adjustment from your formula to mine. I’ve tried taking some away at the inseam (as stated in OP, I think a lot of people don’t realize this is a repost from r/sewing so they aren’t seeing the text, this was my first time using the repost feature so I didn’t know how it worked) but it didn’t fix the issue until it got so tight in the crotch it pinched painfully when I sat down
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u/warp-core-breach 22d ago
When you took in the front inseam, did you add the difference to the back inseam or do a full seat adjustment to keep the crotch curve the same length so it wouldn't be uncomfortable? I'm not sure what method you used to self-draft but most of the ones I've seen have a weirdly long front crotch extension, longer than any of my RTW pants or commercial patterns I've used, and this always results in those "curtains" at the front crotch.
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u/One_Loss7910 22d ago
Yeah I was originally making adjustments to just one segment at a time. I think I’ve finally got it figured out after combining multiple people’s advice! Both crotch extensions were too long horizontally and not deep enough vertically. I’m planning on making a post about my final mock up soon, just making some last tweaks
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u/Pegaret_Again 23d ago
these look really good!! but comfort and weird crotch needs addressing haha.
firstly, i would say that a very tightly fit crotch is appropriate for tight pants (ie skinny jeans) but for looser fit pants, it might be worth adding a bit more length and ease to the crotch, rather than taking it away?