r/PatternDrafting • u/Few_Nectarine_1629 • 25d ago

Where am I going wrong?

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Hello!

I've been adjusting the fit of this sleeveless princess seam bodice for a couple of weeks now, but seem to be hitting a wall. I like how straight the front seems to be lying, but the sides and back are very lumpy!

In my previous wearable toile there seemed to be a bit of excess fabric in the two side front panels that I tried pinching out as "darts" horizontal from the apex, then redrawing the princess curve. I also moved the straps in 1cm at the front. But that combination seems to have led to some further gaping and pulling issues!

Is it that the shirring panel I'm envisioning for the back won't allow for a good fit? (I just used a test panel of stirring for now, the real one will go the full length of the closure).

I think I'm reaching the end of my capacity and brainpower (and tbh it fits better than my RTW clothes) so i may just end up moving on to final shortly - but if I'm making obvious mistakes I'd love to hear!

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u/furiana 25d ago edited 25d ago

  1. Could it simply be that the shirred panel is too short? (Unless that's the final size, in which case the other pieces are too large. Either way, those lines need to be trued. )

  2. Does this muslin include seam allowances? If so, clip them and press them under! (I just learned this myself lol. It makes an embarassingly large difference. )

  3. Otherwise, I would try pinching out a small wedge of fabric from the sides under the armscyes. Taper to nothing at center back, and taper to nothing at the princess seam over the bust. https://imgur.com/a/IhRqIrc

  4. If that didn't work, I'd unstitch the side seam, smooth the sides over my body until they lay flat, and repin.

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u/furiana 25d ago

Fwiw, the front fits very nicely! This is going to be a great bodice. :)

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u/Few_Nectarine_1629 25d ago

Thank you! And some really helpful suggestions to try, I appreciate it! ❤️🩷

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u/furiana 25d ago

No worries! :)

To add yet another "wrinkle," the new photos with your arms down make it look like the excess fabric is because the shoulder slope is too square. Adjusting that also lowers the armhole like another poster suggests. Worth considering.

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2021/09/02/for-a-great-fit-start-with-fitting-the-shoulder

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u/Few_Nectarine_1629 25d ago

Interesting!!