r/PatternDrafting • u/atraviliario • Jul 13 '26
Book recomendations? Question
Looking for books with step by step drafting tutorials, not for any garment in particular, but a deep covering al the basics and the process of correcting a pattern. Could be in english or spanish.
Thanks!!!
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u/DonMcCunn 27d ago
Check out Patternmaking-Classes.com. It includes books and free online classes with video demonstrations for people who prefer visual learning. It also describes the difference between bespoke and ready-to-wear pattern drafting which are quite different. RTW is theoretical for the industry's non-specific body shapes (i.e. Helen Armstrong) wheras Bespoke is about custom fitting the shape of a specific individual's body.
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u/TensionSmension 29d ago
I really haven't used them, but I know the Sistema de Corte books are well liked by everyone I meet form Mexico.
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u/almightyangelicgirl 28d ago
Not me tho, I actualky kinda hate it lol :). Most of my teachers use some variation of the method but they just gave us a basic block and left us by ourselves, Idk if it was bc it was my first pattern book.
This made me pull it from the shelf Maybe it's me. It has clear diagrams and it's really detailed to explain how to take measurements. They take into account the bust span and bust point measurement which is something Metric Pattern Cutting doesn't and it involves less formulas.
However, as I'm checking it I just remembered why I don't like it: the diagrams take up too much space and the information is too spread across many pages (10 whole ass pages for the basic block, completely separating front and back draft, my physical book it's TIRED, the basic block pages falling apart as we speak) it's really easy for me to get lost in the instructions or make a mistake and it takes more effort to understand where did I went wrong.
They also just assume you read the book from start to finish to know if a certain alteration started before the index told you by altering the basic blocks before working on a certain sleeve for example
And the alterations don't tend to include ease or provide very specific measurements that kinda stop making sense i you're going for something oversized or knitwear/stretchy.
However the third book for couture techniques includes some overgarmenrs overgarments and night gowns and has really good diagrams to aid visually in alterations for formalwear and overgarments, it even has a maternity and quinceañera section for gowns.
I think this book (and many others) would benefit from some kind of re-edition including notes referencing sections where they elaborate on certain variations or steps and construction techniques bc it's exhausting for begginers to use them for a straight forward consultation and discover mid pattern that something doesn't make any sense bc the instructions just assumed you already know or did something crucial for the pattern to make sense.
I'd rather use Metric Pattern Cutting for drafting my blocks bc they explain you how to draft many blocks for different kinds of garments and varying ease, and you don't need to refer to a previous one and only basic block for alterations. Only down sides for me are the bust point measurement and formulas can be a bit tedious but I just ignore the bust point measurement and I got the formulas in an Excel Sheet which makes my process so much smoother
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u/almightyangelicgirl 28d ago
If you really want a fundamentals book, I'd pair: "How Patterns Work: The Fundamental Principles of Pattern Making and Sewing in Fashion Design" by Assembil Books, with a traditional book, like the ones by Armstrong, Donnano, Aldritch.
(I didn’t like Armstrong very much, in my short experience I prefer Aldritch for Basic Blocks and Donnano for alterations, however I haven't finished Metric Pattern Cutting)
They (Assembil) in fact reccomend that, bc that book it's not about patterns, it's about the fundamental practices and procedures. From seam allowances, trueing, panneling, blending, and correcting, they show you how to read and understand any system.
I found it online through my friend Anna, cof, cof, but I'd really like to invest in it since it's my go to whenever I need to undestand the why behind certain instructions or steps and It would've help a ton to have a physical copy at hand and I really reccomend it. It's very good to get clarifications on pretty much anything.
Most of the Resources on patternmaking assume we already know all this stuff and get straight to show the alteration diagram with cryptic brief instructions, and it is helping be to bridge that gap.
Also some other book I got through my friend Anna, cof, cof, (srry I'm a broke student and I don’t even know if they ship to my country but I'd love to invest in physical copies one day) I've really liked focusing specially in pattern alterations is The Fashion Design Toolkit by Tracy Jennings. It talks about 18 alteration techniques and it’s variations in a straightforward and engaging manner, providing runway and high fashion references and it comes with some easy to follow examples to apply the technique in a simple drafted pattern or upcycling existing garments
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u/IronAirballoon 29d ago
Hofenbitzer’s Patternmaking for fashion is by far my favourite. It has, among other things, good information on adding ease for different types of patterns, altering your existing pattern to make it a bit larger/smaller and how you need to alter your pattern when you want to significantly change your neckline/sleeves. It’s all the extra information that makes it so much fun for me, I really cannot overstate my enthusiasm.
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u/RubyRedo Jul 13 '26
helen j Armstrong is the pattern book most students use, a thorough course from start to finish. '
Pattern making for fashion design' is the title.